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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 423

post #6331 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post

Would it be a hassle just to make it so I can button up that last hole? As it just looks weird to me like how it currently is.

Where is the button for it?
Was it not sewn on in the first place?
If you have the button just sew it on like the others which don't look like they are cut open anyway.
post #6332 of 6936

Is it possible to let out a jacket with a blend fabric consisting of 56% linen, 43% wool and 3% cashmere, or would there be a line visible from the previous stitching? I know that normal wool is possible to let out without any hassle, but as you see above, the jacket isn't in pure wool.

post #6333 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post
 

 

Would it be a hassle just to make it so I can button up that last hole? As it just looks weird to me like how it currently is.

Leaving your last sleeve buttonhole undone was a way for gentlemen to show others that they were part of a certain sartorial brotherhood and in some cases to show off the accent stitching, and as your button is non-working if you bought it off the rack they sometimes just don't have one at all. It's nothing to worry about but if you think it looks weird as it is and would like to sew one on then go for it. 

post #6334 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post
 

 

Would it be a hassle just to make it so I can button up that last hole? As it just looks weird to me like how it currently is.

Leaving your last sleeve buttonhole undone was a way for gentlemen to show others that they were part of a certain sartorial brotherhood and in some cases to show off the accent stitching, and as your button is non-working if you bought it off the rack they sometimes just don't have one at all. It's nothing to worry about but if you think it looks weird as it is and would like to sew one on then go for it. 

I honestly hate this.  Men who feel a need to show off their sleeves buttons function; dude, get over yourself. Its especially ridiculous when you see someone who gets their suits from a budget place like H&M or one of those online made to measures doing this. It just looks pretentious and silly to me. As someone who used to leave the last button unbuttoned, I have stopped - I do not need to show off to everyone & say, "hey look at me!" (I read it as "you're a douche") - I let me clothes do the talking. I am at the point where I think it looks ridiculous. 

post #6335 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathanS View Post

As someone who used to leave the last button unbuttoned, I have stopped - I do not need to show off to everyone & say, "hey look at me!" (I read it as "you're a douche") - I let me clothes do the talking. I am at the point where I think it looks ridiculous. 

So you're bashing individuals who exhibit a stylistic quirk that you yourself used to enjoy?
post #6336 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baked Potato View Post

Is it possible to let out a jacket with a blend fabric consisting of 56% linen, 43% wool and 3% cashmere, or would there be a line visible from the previous stitching? I know that normal wool is possible to let out without any hassle, but as you see above, the jacket isn't in pure wool.

I think the real question would be whether there is fabric available to let out in the first place.
Linen often shows alterations, though since it is a blend, it may work, but very difficult to give a definitive answer about a fabric you don't actually have in your hand.
post #6337 of 6936
Two different cut of Howard Yount Trouser

USA fit



New Italian Fit?



I have another pair in the old Italian cut, which is right between the two and nearly perfect fit.

Any tailoring recommendations?
And anyone know of a good spot in the Bay Area for the job that'll be great.
post #6338 of 6936
I have a suit where there is a little excess fabric right under my armpit. This causes a slight bunching in armpit area with my arms down, and makes the chest of my suit look slightly puffed out on the sides. Also I think it causes a minor wrinkling in the back. Is it possible to get the suit altered so that there would be no excess fabric? Or would it be a difficult procedure not worth the risk? Everything else looks great and I'm wondering if I'm being a little too nit-picky. Thanks
post #6339 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by theh00d View Post

Two different cut of Howard Yount Trouser

USA fit



New Italian Fit?



I have another pair in the old Italian cut, which is right between the two and nearly perfect fit.

Any tailoring recommendations?
And anyone know of a good spot in the Bay Area for the job that'll be great.

The new Italian fit is too tight over the seat, you can see how distorted the side seam is and how the pocket mouth is pulling open. Better to have a bit of fabric to take in because there isn,t a chance of correcting the too tight pair.
Or- keep looking. You look like you have a full seat, try to get something that has two back darts......
post #6340 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by leesed4509 View Post

I have a suit where there is a little excess fabric right under my armpit. This causes a slight bunching in armpit area with my arms down, and makes the chest of my suit look slightly puffed out on the sides. Also I think it causes a minor wrinkling in the back. Is it possible to get the suit altered so that there would be no excess fabric? Or would it be a difficult procedure not worth the risk? Everything else looks great and I'm wondering if I'm being a little too nit-picky. Thanks

Crystal ball isn't working, impossible to see your problem.
post #6341 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post

The new Italian fit is too tight over the seat, you can see how distorted the side seam is and how the pocket mouth is pulling open. Better to have a bit of fabric to take in because there isn,t a chance of correcting the too tight pair.
Or- keep looking. You look like you have a full seat, try to get something that has two back darts......

Thanks, so its not possible to let the waist and seat out? How about the other pair.
post #6342 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by theh00d View Post

Thanks, so its not possible to let the waist and seat out? How about the other pair.
You can look inside and see if there is any fabric to let out on the side seam. Likely not, and once there are back pockets installed, adding a dart is tedious, and an obvious after thougt fix.
Often the only area to let out is the cb seam, which may give you a bit of room but may not be enough to fix the overall problem 100% successfully.
post #6343 of 6936

Hi all,

 

I'm hoping to get the advice of a tailor on here.  I've gone through my 2nd remake with Indochino and received the jacket pictured below. As you can see it suffers from the sartorial faux-pas of the collar-gap.

 

I'm wondering if the expert tailors out there could tell me how I could fix this collar-gap?

 

 

 

Thanks!

post #6344 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by albertm View Post

Hi all,

I'm hoping to get the advice of a tailor on here.  I've gone through my 2nd remake with Indochino and received the jacket pictured below. As you can see it suffers from the sartorial faux-pas of the collar-gap.

I'm wondering if the expert tailors out there could tell me how I could fix this collar-gap?





Thanks!

That is quite unusual to see in a jacket in a mid size on an average figure type. Usually see this in larger sizes where they do not adjust properly for the shape of the body.

This looks like the base size for the pattern at the neck is too big and wide.
Not sure whether you have given them odd measures to follow, or they just have a big problem with their patterns.
post #6345 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post

Yes what you have done in pinning horizontally cleans up the hang of the trousers below the buttocks. There is still something odd, where it looks like you are getting a bit of a wedgie
You have "pocket flair" which is a sign that you need width. Width across the front at hip level can be added, and it is best if that extra is added all the way to the waist, then reduced to the front waist size by means of a dart rather than curving the side seam more.
The difference below the buttocks is negligible, leave it alone.
Do not reduce the thigh width, you will just creating more problems as a decrease in thigh circumference will pull the fabric too close, and then would need other changes.
There is a point of difference in cut between a dress trouser and jeans. I think it is one of the many unaddressed problems in trouser patterns these days.
Thank you @Ttailor, this is very helpful. I will communicate these concerns with Luxire. I just have two questions, if you don't mind addressing them.
1) What do you suggest regarding the wedgie?
2) Please excuse my technical shortcoming, but could you please explain what you mean with this sentence after the first ",": Width across the front at hip level can be added, and it is best if that extra is added all the way to the waist, then reduced to the front waist size by means of a dart rather than curving the side seam more.

In order to get rid of the creases below the buttocks, I think I need to scoop out the seat a little more and raise the back above the pockets further, which I can't with this particular pair as I'm running out of hip width.
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