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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 422

post #6316 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by codydemmel4 View Post

I am new here and looking for some advice on what to do about the roll on the back of my suit jacket.  I did some research and I think I need to take it to a good tailor and they can take care of it. 



I had a local tailor take the jacket in a little so I am really hoping the jacket isn't too small and this can be fixed by a good tailor because I highly doubt Jos A Bank will take it back since I had it altered a little and it wasn't from




The jacket is tight ..did this always happen? If not undo what you had done
post #6317 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammybt View Post

Hi gents!

Been a longtime lurker, learnt lots from the forum, and ordered a suit a few weeks ago from a reputable tailor. It arrived in the mail a few days ago, and a number of problems with the fit have been bugging me since.

First the basics:
- Tailor: (I don't want to tarnish the operation's reputation, so I won't give too many identifying details now) based in a large Asian city, specialises in bespoke/MTM on their premises and in other cities
- Fabric: Holland & Sherry Fiesta (I picked the fabric from a H&S swatch book, Fiesta I read off the label attached to my suit)
- Measurements were based off my old suit (made years ago, which fit me extremely well when first made, but is now noticeably snug especially around the middle) - the tailors measured my old suit, then adjusted the recorded measurements based on my body during the appointment. Frankly I wasn't sure what to think about the first part of this method, as I had explicitly mentioned that my old suit no longer fits well.

I wasn't expecting a knock-me-out suit, but for the price I paid and their reputation (a lot of good reviews), I confess I hoped for something better - or am I just being picky?

Here are some pictures - I lightened them a little to highlight how the fabric falls - the actual color is darker. The suit IS a little creased - it arrived in a box and I haven't had a chance to get it pressed.

My new suit  

Side - buttoned - the sleeves hide my shirt cuff. I had mentioned that I wanted a thin rim of exposed cuff - the tailor seemed to make especial note of it at the time, but the sleeves are still too long.



Back - shoulder divots



Back with arms raised - weird fabric bunching?
Also shoulder divots



Back - arms stretched in front. Weird bunching underneath collar?



Front - unbuttoned. Too-long sleeves.



Side - unbuttoned.




Trousers seem all right



I have a slightly slanted waistline from mild scoliosis. This is quite obvious here.



Front - buttoned - Bad shoulder divots
The lapel could be more generous. My fault - I wanted a conservative suit with normal lapel widths, but was convinced by the tailor to go for a narrower lapel against my better judgment. The pocket flaps, which are standard width, now seem too wide compared to the underwhelming lapels.
Is the gorge too high/ ok?



Front - buttoned, arms raised. Again bad divots




My questions to all the knowledgeable gentlemen here:
- Are my issues with the suit real or imagined?
- If real, can all/ some of the problems be fixed by a "normal" tailor?

Thanks!






Yes shorten the sleeve...e. Jackets are made for a person in a normal natural standing position...so all that is imagined...the sleeves are not really set the best...which is pretty tricky business...I wouldn't texpect more for under 4 large... Maybe the back could be let out...fancy fabric doesn't make the suit....work knowledge and execution do....that shiot costs denieros.....t.he suit looks i alright.....if you want the world go to a place with reputation and charges coin....treat them well and build a relationship if your projects are moving in the right direction.....I think that is the best way to get exactly what you want....for example at a really dope place those sleeves should not happen.....I think holland and sherry. Fabric by a dope tailor should be at least 8000. 6000 would be a great price....keep in mind I live in Canada......or maybe bespoke got my mind all eft up..... I wouldn't have really any expectations from anything that is not top end real deal bespoke.....then you can have expect ions of greatness....which may or may not be met....depending on how crazy you are and how crazy your tailor is willing to be.... And of course what is actually possible....I knew a guy that had a pretty beautiful suit but didn't like it cause he didn't look like a picture in a magazine...of course in the magazines most suits are pretty crap in comparison to bespoke.....sometimes tailors are unable to satisfy your every desire...for example this tailor or tailor shop appears to not be able to beautifully set this sleeve to that armhole perfectly for your body....I think to attempted perfect that sleeve setting that person gotta be nuts because it could be done but most likely not...looks almost impossible at this point.... If you paid top dollar for this your damned right you gotta send it back and they should fix it....everything else looks alright. ... I wouldn't be pissed....if those sleeves were beautiful I'd be thrilled......I've also seen people/ person look very respectable in 100-200$ suits/suit...but the dude was skinny easy body type...and he did not look hip with it....but 100% respectable....for the record I think you look great!! And no I think only a good / great amazing master tailor can fix that. And even he would most likely refuse becauseit looks pretty close to impossible to fix at this point
Edited by pr2316 - 1/10/16 at 3:42am
post #6318 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by runtomkring View Post

Hi,

My problem is that I can't find trousers that fits my legs. My thighs are 58 cm (22.8 inches) and my calfs are 46 cm (18.1 inches). 




I have tried suits (RTW) from Suitsupply, Hugo Boss, Tiger of Sweden, Canali and so on and this is the result...













My question is what alternations I can do to get that slim silhouette that I'm striving for without all the wrinkles and creasing? I think the problem is my calves but is there anything I can do in that particular area? 

Kind regards









The slim fashionable look is not for you...embrace yourself ....buy more classic cuts.....then slim them down if you want.....that look is for skinny people only.....don't be a victim!!, tapered trousers are hideous anyway
post #6319 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by albertm View Post

Thanks very much breakaway01 - appreciate your advice, and agree with all your comments. Here's a photo of the neck circle, which as you mentioned is too large. A couple of quick follow-up questions too:

(1) Any idea as to how I can fix the collar on my next Indochino order - I don't see an option for this?
(2) How do I go about changing the armhole size on my next Indochino order - I don't see an option for this?



Dude quit joking around....this thing is not hot....investigate something ready to wear..at least you can see what your getting
post #6320 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by pr2316 View Post

Yes shorten the sleeve...e. Jackets are made for a person in a normal natural standing position...so all that is imagined...the sleeves are not really set the best...which is pretty tricky business...I wouldn't texpect more for under 4 large... Maybe the back could be let out...fancy fabric doesn't make the suit....work knowledge and execution do....that shiot costs denieros.....t.he suit looks i alright.....if you want the world go to a place with reputation and charges coin....treat them well and build a relationship if your projects are moving in the right direction.....I think that is the best way to get exactly what you want....for example at a really dope place those sleeves should not happen.....I think holland and sherry. Fabric by a dope tailor should be at least 8000. 6000 would be a great price....keep in mind I live in Canada......or maybe bespoke got my mind all eft up..... I wouldn't have really any expectations from anything that is not top end real deal bespoke.....then you can have expect ions of greatness....which may or may not be met....depending on how crazy you are and how crazy your tailor is willing to be.... And of course what is actually possible....I knew a guy that had a pretty beautiful suit but didn't like it cause he didn't look like a picture in a magazine...of course in the magazines most suits are pretty crap in comparison to bespoke.....sometimes tailors are unable to satisfy your every desire...for example this tailor or tailor shop appears to not be able to beautifully set this sleeve to that armhole perfectly for your body....I think to attempted perfect that sleeve setting that person gotta be nuts because it could be done but most likely not...looks almost impossible at this point.... If you paid top dollar for this your damned right you gotta send it back and they should fix it....everything else looks alright. ... I wouldn't be pissed....if those sleeves were beautiful I'd be thrilled......I've also seen people/ person look very respectable in 100-200$ suits/suit...but the dude was skinny easy body type...and he did not look hip with it....but 100% respectable....for the record I think you look great!! And no I think only a good / great amazing master tailor can fix that. And even he would most likely refuse becauseit looks pretty close to impossible to fix at this point

 

 

post #6321 of 6936

Second Luxire iteration. Fairly happy. Going for slightly shorter legs and Ban-rol inside the waistband for a cleaner waistband look. Any other suggestions? 

 

post #6322 of 6936

So I received my latest Luxire trouser order (online MTM), and there's still much to do. Luxire has been helpful by suggesting alterations for greater ease around the crotch area, but the trousers still drape badly. I've decided to take matters in my own hands and let Luxire know what to do instead of taking small steps according to Luxire's suggestions since this is my 3rd or 4th order and only I know what the problem is really since I'm the one wearing them.

 

Below are two pictures. The first is of how the trousers fit upon arrival and the second is after I pinned the them (scooping out the seat and lifting the back). Basically, I've gotten rid of excess fabric. There's still some adjustments to do to get rid of the small creases left, but I think I'm making some progress. I had much room around the seat area before I pinned the trousers. But after the pinning procedure, I've found myself with a bit of pocket flair (understandably).

 

My question is; what should I do next? Send Luxire the pinned trousers and ask them to replicate the order# with the changes according to the pinned pair or provide them with new measurements? I feel that it would be easier for both if I send the pinned pair since they wont be able to assess the curvature simply by a couple of measurements. And what should I ask from them regarding the pocket flair? Should I ask them to add some back hip width at the side seams or the center back seam?

 

Unpinned

 

Pinned



Maybe @Ttailor could provide som input? Or do you suggest any other alterations than what I've done in the pinned picture given how the trousers fit upon arrival?
Edited by DonRaphael - 1/12/16 at 6:47am
post #6323 of 6936

Iam newbie here, and sorry that my English quite bad. I have a black suit, dont know if its made of wool or linen. I was hanging it up in the wardrobe for a week, and just opened it few hours ago. It was wrinkled from being pressed since my wardrobe is quite small. So this wrinkles occur in one shoulder only, the other one just fine.

 

Is there any suggestion to fix it? Or should i just iron it?

 

Here is the image:

 

 

The other one just fine

 

post #6324 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

So I received my latest Luxire trouser order (online MTM), and there's still much to do. Luxire has been helpful by suggesting alterations for greater ease around the crotch area, but the trousers still drape badly. I've decided to take matters in my own hands and let Luxire know what to do instead of taking small steps according to Luxire's suggestions since this is my 3rd or 4th order and only I know what the problem is really since I'm the one wearing them.

 

Below are two pictures. The first is of how the trousers fit upon arrival and the second is after I pinned the them (scooping out the seat and lifting the back). Basically, I've gotten rid of excess fabric. There's still some adjustments to do to get rid of the small creases left, but I think I'm making some progress. I had much room around the seat area before I pinned the trousers. But after the pinning procedure, I've found myself with a bit of pocket flair (understandably).

 

My question is; what should I do next? Send Luxire the pinned trousers and ask them to replicate the order# with the changes according to the pinned pair or provide them with new measurements? I feel that it would be easier for both if I send the pinned pair since they wont be able to assess the curvature simply by a couple of measurements. And what should I ask from them regarding the pocket flair? Should I ask them to add some back hip width at the side seams or the center back seam?

 

Unpinned

 

Pinned



Maybe @Ttailor could provide som input? Or do you suggest any other alterations than what I've done in the pinned picture given how the trousers fit upon arrival?

It would help immensely to have the light source coming from behind the camera, and pointed at you. Right now you back is in shadow, and it is really difficult to see what is going on.
post #6325 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


It would help immensely to have the light source coming from behind the camera, and pointed at you. Right now you back is in shadow, and it is really difficult to see what is going on.

Thanks, @Ttailor

Please see pictures below. I intend to pin the trousers and send them back to the company in order for them to replicate the changes I've doen to the trousers. I believe I've done a decent job given how they fit unpinned. But there's still some work to do.

 

What I've done is that I've scooped out the seat and lifted the back above the back pockets. Basically gotten rid of excess fabric. This has left me with a bit of pocket flair, which I believe is the result of the pins at the back above the back pockets near the side seams. The seat doesn't feel snug as it is now, and I had to much room around the seat area to begin with before I started pinning the trousers.

 

As you can see in the pictures where the trousers are pinned, there's still a break below the buttocks, especially below the left leg, which doesn't fall as cleanly as the right leg. What can be done to get rid of the creases just below the buttocks where the breaks/creases occur? Is there something else I should do/consider/pin before sending the trousers back? Also, I'm considering decreasing the thigh width (and maybe knee width) measurements by 0,25" each. Do you think this will affect how the trousers fall or cause any (new) cause breaks?

 

I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.

 

Unpinned

 

Pinned

post #6326 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefirsthand View Post
 

Iam newbie here, and sorry that my English quite bad. I have a black suit, dont know if its made of wool or linen. I was hanging it up in the wardrobe for a week, and just opened it few hours ago. It was wrinkled from being pressed since my wardrobe is quite small. So this wrinkles occur in one shoulder only, the other one just fine.

 

Is there any suggestion to fix it? Or should i just iron it?

 

Here is the image:

 

 

The other one just fine

 

Probably need a wider hanger with a shoulder flare, you can get them from The Hanger Project or butler luxury. 

post #6327 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Thanks, @Ttailor

Please see pictures below. I intend to pin the trousers and send them back to the company in order for them to replicate the changes I've doen to the trousers. I believe I've done a decent job given how they fit unpinned. But there's still some work to do.

What I've done is that I've scooped out the seat and lifted the back above the back pockets. Basically gotten rid of excess fabric. This has left me with a bit of pocket flair, which I believe is the result of the pins at the back above the back pockets near the side seams. The seat doesn't feel snug as it is now, and I had to much room around the seat area to begin with before I started pinning the trousers.

As you can see in the pictures where the trousers are pinned, there's still a break below the buttocks, especially below the left leg, which doesn't fall as cleanly as the right leg. What can be done to get rid of the creases just below the buttocks where the breaks/creases occur? Is there something else I should do/consider/pin before sending the trousers back? Also, I'm considering decreasing the thigh width (and maybe knee width) measurements by 0,25" each. Do you think this will affect how the trousers fall or cause any (new) cause breaks?

I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.

Unpinned



Pinned




Yes what you have done in pinning horizontally cleans up the hang of the trousers below the buttocks. There is still something odd, where it looks like you are getting a bit of a wedgie
You have "pocket flair" which is a sign that you need width. Width across the front at hip level can be added, and it is best if that extra is added all the way to the waist, then reduced to the front waist size by means of a dart rather than curving the side seam more.
The difference below the buttocks is negligible, leave it alone.
Do not reduce the thigh width, you will just creating more problems as a decrease in thigh circumference will pull the fabric too close, and then would need other changes.
There is a point of difference in cut between a dress trouser and jeans. I think it is one of the many unaddressed problems in trouser patterns these days.
post #6328 of 6936

This is going to sound like an incredibly dumb and pointless qustion but am I supposed to make these cuffs on my new sport coat workable?

 

I.e. is that unbuttomed hole at the bottom supposed to be functional?

 

 

post #6329 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post
 

This is going to sound like an incredibly dumb and pointless qustion but am I supposed to make these cuffs on my new sport coat workable?

 

I.e. is that unbuttomed hole at the bottom supposed to be functional?

 

 

you can if you want to but conventionally I can't think of any reason why you'd want to open up the cuffs. Plus it'll cost much more to alter the sleeves if you make them workable 

post #6330 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post
 

you can if you want to but conventionally I can't think of any reason why you'd want to open up the cuffs. Plus it'll cost much more to alter the sleeves if you make them workable 

 

Would it be a hassle just to make it so I can button up that last hole? As it just looks weird to me like how it currently is.

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