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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 421

post #6301 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyTre View Post


Thanks for your reply!  I'm looking for something clean hanging rather than close-fitting.  I do have a prominent seat and it seems that the problem is getting the taper from the seat to the leg right.  There are double darts being used in the back.

As for the company, they ask for either body measurements measurements off a best-fitting set of pants.  I went with the latter.  Because of my build, I've never had a something that is trully best fitting so I'm still trying to get fit right.  The company allows you to send pictures of how a previous order fits and make comments regarding that fit.  They then recommends changes to the pattern/alterations to the pattern that they have for you on file.  Over the 2 times that I've done this, the managed to fix the "wedgie" issue that I was having.  However, the sagginess behind the thighs remains.

It is very difficult to advise at this point with out seeing the pattern, which won't happen.
There is a particular balance between the shape/curve and angle of the CB line and the thigh and the length of the back inseam which isn't quite there yet.
I hope you succeed in getting closer to what you are after.
post #6302 of 6936

Hi,

 

My problem is that I can't find trousers that fits my legs. My thighs are 58 cm (22.8 inches) and my calfs are 46 cm (18.1 inches). 

 

 

I have tried suits (RTW) from Suitsupply, Hugo Boss, Tiger of Sweden, Canali and so on and this is the result...

 

 

 

 

 

My question is what alternations I can do to get that slim silhouette that I'm striving for without all the wrinkles and creasing? I think the problem is my calves but is there anything I can do in that particular area? 

 

Kind regards

post #6303 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by runtomkring View Post

Hi,

My problem is that I can't find trousers that fits my legs. My thighs are 58 cm (22.8 inches) and my calfs are 46 cm (18.1 inches). 




I have tried suits (RTW) from Suitsupply, Hugo Boss, Tiger of Sweden, Canali and so on and this is the result...













My question is what alternations I can do to get that slim silhouette that I'm striving for without all the wrinkles and creasing? I think the problem is my calves but is there anything I can do in that particular area? 

Kind regards

Well I am sorry to say that you probably fall outside the sizing parameters of most if not all RTW.
You need trousers that accomodate your thighs as well, as you can see in the photos how tight they are and since muscles expand as they contract, sitting may become an issue.
The leg width needs to be bigger than your calves in a flexed positon and not taper too much. A wider legged trouser in general. Please do not expect pleating to solve the issue, because it won't.
Perhaps mtm but make sure they get a photo and body measurments if you go that route.
post #6304 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by runtomkring View Post
 

Hi,

 

My problem is that I can't find trousers that fits my legs. My thighs are 58 cm (22.8 inches) and my calfs are 46 cm (18.1 inches). 

 

that particular area? 

 

Kind regards

Holy! How do you even get calves that big. Genetics or exercise?

 

Go custom pants, its going to be the only way you can get a straight line from top to bottom. You won't regret them, you can spend all the money on OTR you want, but it'll never fit you correctly.

post #6305 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


Well I am sorry to say that you probably fall outside the sizing parameters of most if not all RTW.
You need trousers that accomodate your thighs as well, as you can see in the photos how tight they are and since muscles expand as they contract, sitting may become an issue.
The leg width needs to be bigger than your calves in a flexed positon and not taper too much. A wider legged trouser in general. Please do not expect pleating to solve the issue, because it won't.
Perhaps mtm but make sure they get a photo and body measurments if you go that route.

 

I usually wear a 24 on the jacket and then go with 25 or 50 (italian) for the pants. 

 

I was afraid for your answer and it'll be expensive to go bespoke on every suit :brick:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrizzy View Post
 

Holy! How do you even get calves that big. Genetics or exercise?

 

Go custom pants, its going to be the only way you can get a straight line from top to bottom. You won't regret them, you can spend all the money on OTR you want, but it'll never fit you correctly.

 

Mostly genetics...and maybe 26 years of football (soccer). But no extra love to the calves if that's what you asked. 

 

Yeah, I'll try to find someone who can solve my issue. Do you think MTM is a way to go? 

post #6306 of 6936
Anyone know how difficult / costly it is to tailor a jacket to have more open quarters? This is a fully lined jacket. I want the quarters opened out a'la Liverano.
Will ask my tailor about it next time I'm there. I assume $85+.
post #6307 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


It is very difficult to advise at this point with out seeing the pattern, which won't happen.
There is a particular balance between the shape/curve and angle of the CB line and the thigh and the length of the back inseam which isn't quite there yet.
I hope you succeed in getting closer to what you are after.


Thank you for the advice.  I spoke with people that made the last set of pants and they recommended reducing the 1/2 thigh measurement but taking off from the rear panel only.  I'm going to give that a try.

post #6308 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by runtomkring View Post
 

Hi,

 

My problem is that I can't find trousers that fits my legs. My thighs are 58 cm (22.8 inches) and my calfs are 46 cm (18.1 inches). 

 

My question is what alternations I can do to get that slim silhouette that I'm striving for without all the wrinkles and creasing? I think the problem is my calves but is there anything I can do in that particular area? 

 

Kind regards

I've had similar problems although my legs are not nearly as developed as yours.  In my case it was a bit more of a case with the seat.  If I found pants that fit around the wait, then the hips, seat and thighs would be way too tight.  If I found pants with a comfortable seat and thights then the waist was way too large and the lower legs too wide.

 

I think the other commenters have it right, the pants in general seem a bit too tight.  Beyond the thighs and calves, I notice pull lines across the hips as well, both in the front and rear. I think in your case, like mine, there is only so slim that you can go.  Most of those slim cuts look good for guys with stick legs and and no rear ends because the fabric can stay a bit away the body and still give a slender line. When you have more muscular proportions, you still need that same amount of breathing room in order for you to be able to have freedom of movement and for the fabric to drape well.  Unfortunately, that means that, unless you are 7 feet tall, the trade-off is that the look won't be a slim.

 

Bespoke is certainly an option but very expensive (at least for me).  I've been using an online MTM service (see my post above) and I'm gradually improving the fit of my pants.  However, it takes a bit of time and it is a bit of an investment until you get the fit you want.  I think probably the best compromise and bang for your buck would be to find someone locally who can make a custom pair of pants for you.  You would then be able to consult with someone about fit and all that stuff.  Normally people who do this go for very high end fabrics, but if that is not within your reach, I would say get some basic cotton chinos done.  Once you have those pants, you can send them to an online MTM service and ask them to copy the pattern using whatever other, better fabrics you want which would save you a fair amount of money.

post #6309 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyTre View Post


Thank you for the advice.  I spoke with people that made the last set of pants and they recommended reducing the 1/2 thigh measurement but taking off from the rear panel only.  I'm going to give that a try.

Really? I don't know that just reducing the thigh circumference is going to improve the way they hang below the seat. Wedgie time! If they do that and scoop out the seat run, they will just be tighter and sitting may be an issue.

If they do that, they should put the length back over the buttocks by opening up the pattern and making the cb more angled, which for your shape should be the case anyway.


I know that I didn,t give much advice the last time, because it does depend on the pattern as it is right now, but from the photos you can see a tightness in the cb mid buttock. This says to me that the cb is probably cut too straight for your shape.

The fix really depends a lot on the experience of the person manipulating the pattern and how much fitting/patternmaking experience they have and whether they are able to significantly alter beyond the pattern base shaoe the company uses.
Its complicated.....
post #6310 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


Really? I don't know that just reducing the thigh circumference is going to improve the way they hang below the seat. Wedgie time! If they do that and scoop out the seat run, they will just be tighter and sitting may be an issue.

If they do that, they should put the length back over the buttocks by opening up the pattern and making the cb more angled, which for your shape should be the case anyway.


I know that I didn,t give much advice the last time, because it does depend on the pattern as it is right now, but from the photos you can see a tightness in the cb mid buttock. This says to me that the cb is probably cut too straight for your shape.

The fix really depends a lot on the experience of the person manipulating the pattern and how much fitting/patternmaking experience they have and whether they are able to significantly alter beyond the pattern base shaoe the company uses.
Its complicated.....


This is great. I'm going to forward your advice to them.  Thank you kindly.

post #6311 of 6936

Can this be fixed? I like how the pants fit and there is a little extra fabric around this area. Do they just need to be pressed?

post #6312 of 6936

I don't think pressing is going to fix that; perhaps needs letting out?

post #6313 of 6936

Hey guys, first post here so please try and bear with me. I just grabbed this Suitsupply Napoli and this was the best fitting out of the two I ordered. This was my first time trying it on, and no alterations have been made. There is no store near me so it wasnt possible for me to try anything on prior to ordering. What do you guys think about this off the rack fit? I need to go get the pants altered and can request any changes to the jacket that you guys suggest. Please excuse the quality of the pics and the sloppily thrown together look, it was all I had with me and was in a time crunch. Thanks in advance!

 

 

post #6314 of 6936
Quote:
Originally Posted by kscott10165 View Post



Can this be fixed? I like how the pants fit and there is a little extra fabric around this area. Do they just need to be pressed?

I have no words for this......pressing won't help.
What do you like about the fit? You didn't show the front, nor a profile pic.
post #6315 of 6936
Don't buy slim pants... Get big ones then slim them.do not taper...look into old man brands/ styling... The new fashion doesn't work for most people...tapered trousers are pretty lame anyway....but it's hard to go against what they been telling you in Gq for 7 yrs
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