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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 412

post #6166 of 6934
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salad View Post

I found this thread that basically explains why it happens:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror

@sandspider, you said you didn't notice the divots in the store but I'll ask this anyway....did you try on any other Eidos jackets of the same cut and if so, do you recall how they fit? I ask because I'm trying to sort out whether this Eidos cut is just not right for your shoulder or is the problem is specific to this particular jacket.

Funny thing is I'm looking at a jacket online right now that divots on the model wearing it but I have tried on no less than 20 Eidos, Isaia and Zenga jackets over the last week and none of them divot on me. My guess is the problem is the jacket and not the cut. I may buy it anyway hoping it fits me better than the model but I do have the option to return it. A return policy is a must.

 

@Salad read the post from JeffreyD but feel like in RTW market we are at the mercy of the company that designs and manufactures. This is a Primo model and the store did not have any other jackets in this model to try. I would not have bought the jacket if it was divoting like this in the store either that or I was too giddy from buying my first Eidos that I did not wear it long enough to notice. It's a shame because it's a really nice jacket sits really well on the neck and moves beautifully with you. I also tried the new Eidos model at Bloomindales it's a slim cut so had to size up but no divots on that model, the lapels are much slimmer in person though for the new model so holding off on buying it. Love the Eidos product now just have to find a model that works with my build.

Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post


It's salvageable if you can find an amazing taylor, like JeffreyD suggests. Do you have access to one?

@othertravel,

I moved to Chicago recently and the tailor located on Oak street basically asked me to ignore the divots. The tailor seemed to think that if I sized up in the jacket it would be too loose everywhere else and might not be easy to take in that much cloth. So, given that discussion I feel like he is not up to the task of working on it.

post #6167 of 6934

Hello,

 

I've received a new suit, my first from online MTM. It's for business use.

 

Photos:

 

How is the fit (unpressed)?

Main concern is the jacket length. I'm wondering if I should order a remake, or if as a shorter man I may be able to live with the length. Perhaps my tailor can let out the back to mitigate the feminine curve in the lower half? I fear my posture/lordosis may be making the jacket appear even shorter.

Next would be the waist/button area. When buttoned, I am turned off by how much the jacket spreads open in the bottom half, such that you can see the end of my tie/shirt. Is this a button stance issue, or the suppression? The lower button also looks pulled a bit too much off-center. 

 

If I am to keep this suit and just alter, I will definitely get the collar roll, pant length, and crotch fixed. Other areas could use work I'm sure. I'd like to hear your thoughts.


Edited by astralweeks27 - 11/2/15 at 8:38pm
post #6168 of 6934

I think the suit looks fine.  Yes and inch or so at the bottom would help, but not it's not really that necessary. 

post #6169 of 6934
Quote:
Originally Posted by LGHT View Post
 

 

I'm actually in orange county which is about 2 hours from central LA depending on traffic.  I did find a local tailor that seemed to get good ratings on yelp and his prices fell in line with the previous posted link.  He is a small shop and spent about 30 min getting me sized and told me if the suit is 2 long or too wide in the shoulders he wouldn't bother taking my money, because it would be 1. Too costly to make the alterations and 2. The finished result wouldn’t look right.  Here is what I have being done.  take in the sides a couple inches, shorten the sleeves an inch or so take 1” off from the bottom, 1” in on the pants and put a him on the pants.  Total out the door was $125.  I pick it up Wed so hopefully it will fit nice.

 

Ok I got the suit back and it's not what I expected.   The wife said the suit sits "big and boxy"  Basically I got the suit for next to nothing new although it was a 46L and I wear a 43R.  I figured I’ll just spend the money to get it fitted correctly.  Since the suit was so big he couldn’t take in as much as was needed on the sides because the pockets restricted that amount.  This is what I was told AFTER I paid and went to pick it up so what was measured in the store and what I got was 2 different things.

 

I also noticed the pants are a bit loose in the waist and the sleeves are a little long.  Basically during the fitting he didn’t measure anything he simply had me put the suit on and pinned it where he said it needs to go.  The fit isn’t horrible, but a half inch here and there would really help.  Also on the sleeves since it was a Long he cut about 3 inch off.  However he didn’t taper the sleeve so now I have a HUGE ring where my sleeve ends and it looks silly. 

 

I did find another guy who I spoke to and he said a real tailor would know if you cut that much off a sleeve it would need to be tapered so that other guy is no good.  I tapper based on needs and you don’t have to ask me. 

 

Well off to the next guy to see if he can do a better job this time. 

post #6170 of 6934
Quote:
Originally Posted by LGHT View Post

Ok I got the suit back and it's not what I expected.   The wife said the suit sits "big and boxy"  Basically I got the suit for next to nothing new although it was a 46L and I wear a 43R.  I figured I’ll just spend the money to get it fitted correctly.  Since the suit was so big he couldn’t take in as much as was needed on the sides because the pockets restricted that amount.  This is what I was told AFTER I paid and went to pick it up so what was measured in the store and what I got was 2 different things.

I also noticed the pants are a bit loose in the waist and the sleeves are a little long.  Basically during the fitting he didn’t measure anything he simply had me put the suit on and pinned it where he said it needs to go.  The fit isn’t horrible, but a half inch here and there would really help.  Also on the sleeves since it was a Long he cut about 3 inch off.  However he didn’t taper the sleeve so now I have a HUGE ring where my sleeve ends and it looks silly. 

I did find another guy who I spoke to and he said a real tailor would know if you cut that much off a sleeve it would need to be tapered so that other guy is no good.  I tapper based on needs and you don’t have to ask me. 

Well off to the next guy to see if he can do a better job this time. 

It is strange that you neglected to mention the sizing in your original post.
Going from a 46L when you wear a 43R is unlikely to have a satisfactory outcome and had you mentioned it, you would have been discouraged from spending money doing so.
Not only is it a bit more than a full size difference, but there are proportional differences in the mix too.
post #6171 of 6934
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


It is strange that you neglected to mention the sizing in your original post.
Going from a 46L when you wear a 43R is unlikely to have a satisfactory outcome and had you mentioned it, you would have been discouraged from spending money doing so.
Not only is it a bit more than a full size difference, but there are proportional differences in the mix too.

 

Actually I had my measurements done at a new shop yesterday after the post and he said my chest size is 44, but my shoulders are 45.  The previous suit I was wearing was a 43R, but the tailor said some suits vary in size so although it's a 43 it fits like a 44 which is why it fits good, but technically I'm a 44 in size so I can wear a 44 or a 46.  However he said the best fit would be a 43 classic fit or a 44 slim fit.

 

I didn't think much of trying to get a 46L to fit at the time, but like you mentioned going down that many sizes didn't give me a good outcome and definitely not the outcome the tailor said I would get.  I guess he was more interested in make $$$ then being open and honest and just telling me I should consider a different sized suit altogether. 

 

Live and learn.

post #6172 of 6934

I just found this thread.  I didn't know it was here!  I have a tailoring/fit/body shape question that has haunted me for years. 

 

Here's some background just for perspective.

 

I'm tall and big.  6'3" 250.  I typically wear a 50L. 

 

My primary issue involves my shoulders.  I am very broad in the shoulders and they are SQUARE.  I mean straight across.  Even when I was playing sports and in better shape my shoulders are straight.  In addition (for whatever reason) my posture is straight.  Most people have a little bit of a curve in their upper back and most suits even higher end suits are tailored with that in mind. As a result, I get this extra roll of fabric between my shoulders and I think this is made worse by the squareness of my shoulders.  

 

Tailors in the past have removed most of this by "lowering the collar".   

 

So, here are a couple questions.  Is lowering the collar the right way to fix this?   I prefer suits with less padding in the shoulders almost a natural shoulder.  I thought that might help to reduce the squareness.  It does help some, but it seems like instead of no padding in a jacket I actually need padding NOT on the shoulders but between the shoulder edge and the neck -- Basically the trapezius muscle area.   Does that make sense?   Is that possible? Or likely?  

post #6173 of 6934
The true fix at the pattern stage for very square shoulders would be to raise the shoulder at the outer edge and also likely raise the underrm level. In a finished jacket there is no fabric allowed/left for making those changes.
The option therefore is to lower the shoulder at the neck, thereby making the shoulders more square. So the back neck lowers as well.
If the amount to be lowered is significant, including changing the front neckline, you may have an issue with the neckline becoming short, maybe throwing off the look of the jacket and the relative location of the gorge line and lapel. Also the collar would need to be reset.
As for the excess vertically, mid back, you could explore having a bit taken in cb, but be careful there.

Whether a small bit of sympathetic padding at the neck edge would help really depends on how much would be needed after alteration. Not the usual thing done, as it could look odd very easily.
post #6174 of 6934

Hello all,

 

Long time lurker but just joined the forum. I received my MTM suit from Indochino and was hoping you gents might help me with a bit of a critique!

 

I think the main issues are the pulling in the back, lapels that are a bit lifted, but worst of all, not enough waist suppression

 

If anyone's curious, those are the AE Sanford in black (used on eBay for $50!!!).

 

Thank you!

 

Here goes:

 

 

 

post #6175 of 6934
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post

The true fix at the pattern stage for very square shoulders would be to raise the shoulder at the outer edge and also likely raise the underrm level. In a finished jacket there is no fabric allowed/left for making those changes.
The option therefore is to lower the shoulder at the neck, thereby making the shoulders more square. So the back neck lowers as well.
If the amount to be lowered is significant, including changing the front neckline, you may have an issue with the neckline becoming short, maybe throwing off the look of the jacket and the relative location of the gorge line and lapel. Also the collar would need to be reset.
As for the excess vertically, mid back, you could explore having a bit taken in cb, but be careful there.

Whether a small bit of sympathetic padding at the neck edge would help really depends on how much would be needed after alteration. Not the usual thing done, as it could look odd very easily.

 

I wasn't even sure if some sort of padding was even possible.   But, what you are saying I think confirms that a truly natural shoulder won't really help square shoulders.  It won't add bulk which would unnecessarily enhance the shoulders, but it also won't provide any sort of slope.  

post #6176 of 6934

 

 

What's the issue with these sleeves?

post #6177 of 6934
Why doesn't the collar of the shirt go under the jacket. Jacket too small?

post #6178 of 6934
Hi guys, I posted this in the Luxire thread, but figured this might be a more appropriate place.

I recently ordered my first pair of pants using a mix of measurements from other well fitting pants, and I'm assuming there are a bunch of fixes/changes that could be done to improve the fit. For what it's worth, I have an athletic build with large thighs, but have a small shoe size (8.0-8.5) so it has been difficult to find pants with enough room in the thighs that have a decent taper down to the ankle with very little/ no break, which is the look I was going for here. It looks like I'm getting some weird pulling down by the calf. It also looks like I have some excess fabric in the seat area and
some bunching up under the belt line on the back.

Any feedback or recommended adjustments on how to improve the fit, it would be greatly appreciated. I've attached a few pictures as well. Thanks!




post #6179 of 6934

Hello, I just received my first mtm suit from Oliver Wicks. As this is my first non rtw suit I wanted to get some feedback from people more experience. So far I plan to have the waist taken out about 0.5" as it's fairly tight. I purchased this primarily to wear to upcoming interviews. I really appreciate any suggestions that you may have. Thank you.

 

 

 

 

post #6180 of 6934
Hello!

Here is a photo of me in a Kent Wang MTM Trial suit - I am trying to figure out how much to lengthen the jacket and lower the button stance. Should I lengthen the jacket by 2.5 cm? 3 cm? More? I prefer a more conservative fit rather than a fashionable one.

I am already pretty set on the other adjustments I want, I am just uncertain on the jacket...

Thanks in advance!

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