The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 39

sorry RDiaz thats what comes from falling behind and rushing to catch up. my falt.
that word should have been LONG not short.
no you are not bring paranoid. the problem is real.
is the coat also snug at the waist button?

Here are a couple pics of the problem I describe. This happens to all of my jackets. It doesn't feel snug on the chest at all, I'd say it's even a little loose. I believe this jacket is making it look like I have more of a belly than I actually do.

 

 

Coatless:

 

 

Coat on:

 

 

Now that I come to realize, I believe I'm standing a bit more erect in the coatless pic, hope the "problem" shows though. In fact, when standing less erect, the belly should be less pronounced, but the jacket makes it look like there's a big one there!

That doesn't look like an "erect" posture to me. You're letting your stomach puff out, and the effect is exaggerated more when you have a coat on. Both pics have the same outline in the front.

Sorry, I didn't want to mean I have an erect posture (which I don't), just that I'm a bit more erect in one pic than the other. If you realize, the position of my arms relative to my back is different in each pic; my stomach is puffing forward in the coatless one, but it's not on the other. It's the jacket that is bulging out. In fact the silhouette of the coat looks better when both buttons are done, as if it was cut to be that way; that makes me think a lower button stance would fix things up a little, but I'm no expert... 

its the front balance thats too short. the front is being pulled up. see how the horizontal plaids are slanted up.

Thanks! So, what should I ask for when going the MTM route? I'm gonna have it done with a tailor, but it's likely that he will only take my measurements and send them over to a factory; I don't know if he will take things like this into account. I'm already going to ask for a lower button stance and wider lapels to help disguise that belly of mine, should I ask him if it's possible to make the front a bit larger than the back to help with balance?

 

Or perhaps I should wear this jacket when I get measured, and tell him what I'd like to fix with MTM garments?

 

Thanks again for your help.

It is hard to diagnose everything form just a side view. Your posture does look erect, plus you stand hip forward. Cannot judge the button position from a side view. Front and back view and a picture of the jacket unbuttoned would help.
Definitely wear this jacket to get measured for a MTM garment and just describe what you want to be different. Don't direct them. The pattern they use may be very different than what you are wearing and may need different adjustments from the cut of this jacket. Let them decide what adjustments to make. If the tailor you use for this does not understand balance issues or understand what you want to accomplish, go some where else.
Do you have this issue with every jacket or just this one?

I believe the tailor I'm using is pretty good judging from the work he's done in alterations; his bespoke work looks good as well. I just haven't had any garments made or measured for at his place, and I really hope he knows what to do. I'd just like to suggest what to fix and I'll definately be wearing one of these RTW jackets when I get measured..

 

I have the problem with this jacket too (I've posted it previously, it's from the same maker):

 

 

 

Other makers I've tried also tend to do the same. I have the feeling that both the waist and the button stance are very high, which shouldn't be necessarily bad, but maybe it isn't ideal for my body shape and posture?

 

yes if you do have a m2m suit made, do wear this suit. it will focus the tailors attention on the problem. also take copies of these pictures the shirt sleeve, the jacket side view, and the front view. your tailor may want to send these to the m2m company with your order.

 

the shirt sleeve picture shows the problem.

draw a straight line from the chest to the stomach. it should touch the front of each. it slants outward as it goes down.

if you continue that straight line on its way down you can see how far out it goes.

and thats what your coats are doing.

 

 

 

If this thread is still running... I'm looking for opinions on the fit. Obviously. the jacket sleeves are not finished yet, and to me it looks like there's a weird neck-thing going on, and the back needs to be slimmed a bit. But I'm not a professional- are these things fixable?

This is seriously off topic, but christ! The power of a DSLR to make a mirror shot look interesting! Shallow and intersting focus, color depth, I wonder if I can convince my wife we really need a nicer camera......

ask your wife to sign on and ask us. we promise to lie for you.

Looks to me like you are in between a regular and a long, I am assuming this jacket is a regular. This is a touch short but a long is a full inch more and more than you need. The neck thing is from prominent blades and I think the left blade is bigger than the right. You have a right low shoulder anyway. Shorten right sleeve 1/4" and the left 1/2". Pant has long back rise so they fall on your calf and causes the diagonal wrinkles on the back of the leg.

Thanks much Despos- I assume all of these are relatively fixable? jacket wise, at least.

 

I purchased a blazer from Brooks Brothers where the tailor was to shorten the sleeves and then make functioning buttons on the cuffs.  The problem is the BB tailor did not shorten the sleeves appropriately before making the functioning buttons.  When I tried on the jacket yesterday, the sleeves appeared unaltered and it was clear they need to shorten the sleeves close to an inch to get them to the appropriate length (showing 1/4 inch of shirt cuff).  The tailor told me it is not a big deal and he can easily shorten the sleeves more, but I was under the impression you cannot mess with the sleeves in such a significant way once the button holes are cut.  Is there anything I should look for when trying on the jacket next week?  For instance, how much distance should there be between the end of the sleeve and the first button?  The blazer is a 42L (if that helps).

They can shorten from the shoulder if buttonholes are already cut.