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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 335

post #5011 of 5374

I have an oppurtunity to buy an Belvest suit at a great price, its second hand and i have a few questions about the fit. Im wondering if the shoulders are too wide, what do you guys think? The arms also are too short and need to be lenghtended and it has to be taken in over the shoulderblades.

 

Thank you for your help!

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #5012 of 5374

Hey folks,

 

Could really use some advice on optimizing my fit. I am sending this shirt and chino out for replication with some modifications. The areas I'm not happy with are highlighted, mainly arms front and back. Also, my biggest gripe, the back (particularly lower back).

 

The pants, need to be longer and bigger lower leg openings, my biggest area of concern is the seat.

 

My plan of attack:

Shirt: adjust for sloping shoulders (not accounted for in pics below). Decrease back waist by 1.0''

 

Pants: besides increase inseam and leg openings I have no idea what to do about the seat. It feel like the back rise might be too much, but I fear that might induce the wedge...

 

Any and all thoughts are welcomed and MUCH appreciated.

 

 

Warning: The SEAT (Click to show)
post #5013 of 5374

Hi,

 

Would very much like some suggestions with a jacket.

 

I recently tried a PRL jacket in 40R/50R (pics). Which I thought was a little too short, looked good with jeans but not with chinos.

Anyway, PRL released the (as far as I can see) same jacket but with a different name, and the ability to order it in Long (yay!).

 

So, judging by these pictures and the measurements of the jacket in the pictures, and the measurements of the long version, would you please estimate if the Long jacket would fit well? (be long enough and so on), I do not necessarily require the jacket to fulfill all classic fit requirements (such as overall length of jacket to reach the knuckle and so on), whats important is just that it will look good.

 

This post will be quite long, but I would really really appreciate if someone (preferably more than one) would do their best to give some suggestions on this. 

 

Jacket in 40R/50R:

 

 

 

With jeans and oxford shirt:

 

 

 

Measurements of the jacket in the pics (measured like the drawing below):

A Sleeve: 17.3"

B Chest around: 40.9" (~20.5")

C Waist around: 37.8" (~19")

D Length: 29.1"

E Shoulders: 18.5"

 

The New PRL jacket in Long have the following measurements (the sleeve is obviously not measured the exact same way):

 

  • Chest:  (40 Long) 20.5 inches  (42 Long) 21.5 inches  (44 Long) 21.5 inches
  • Shoulder to Shoulder:  (40 Long) 18 inches  (42 Long) 18.5 inches (44 Long) 19 inches
  • Collar to Hem:  (40 Long) 30 inches  (42 Long) 30.5 inches  (44 Long) 31 inches
  • Sleeve Length:  (40 Long) 25.5 inches  (42 Long) 25.5 inches  (44 Long) 26 inches
  • Waist:  (40 Long) 18.5 inches  (42 Long) 19.5 inches  (44 Long) 20 inches

 

So, do you believe the new version in Long will work? If so what size? I thought that maybe I could take the 42 Long and take in a little on the waist, to gain as much length on the jacket as possible?

 

So basically what size should I take and how will it look and fit?

 

 

Terribly sorry for the long post. My biggest thanks to the ones who take their time to help me out!

 

Thank you!

 

post #5014 of 5374
A Long should do. A 41L might fit better than an even size. The natural cut of the pictured jacket is so unflattering on the shoulders that PRL probably should be ruled out.
post #5015 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post

A Long should do. A 41L might fit better than an even size. The natural cut of the pictured jacket is so unflattering on the shoulders that PRL probably should be ruled out.

Thank you for your answer. It doesnt come in uneven sizes, such as 41, but im leaning towards picking the 42L and if the chest or waist is a little too big I will let a tailor take that in.




"The natural cut of the pictured jacket is so unflattering on the shoulders that PRL probably should be ruled out."

I didnt understand this last part, what do you mean?
post #5016 of 5374

Hi,

 

it would be terrific if someone could critique my shirt I received from Proper Cloth.

 

Here are my thoughts on it:

 

  • I always seem to have this problem that the shirt billows out above the waistband instead of laying flat - how would you correct that?
  • Waist size - thinking about going slightly wider so the seat opens a bit more as well?
  • Sleeve seems ok but forearm is slightly tight - thinking about increasing sleeve by 0.5"
  • I feel like there's a little much excess fabric in the mid-section back - how would one correct that?

 

Thanks a lot for any feedback!

post #5017 of 5374

Hello all!  My brother of very similar build to myself is gifting/thrifting me a fair amount of tailored goodness.  I'd appreciate any feedback on how I might be able to tweak this blue dress shirt, grey dress trousers, and sportcoat:

 

   

 

    

 

  

 

 

  

post #5018 of 5374
Hallo, I have a general question on pant fit:

I have a quite prominent seat (don't know if it is a tilt issue or just the way my gluteus are), the pants fit me well but i have some sort of "waves" of fabric just below the waistband on the back.
How will I reduce this?

Another question is, if I increase the total length of the pant, keeping the inseam as it is and keeping the front and back rise as they are, what will I get?
post #5019 of 5374

Is this jacket too small? I see the pulling at the front button, but it seems minimal and correctable. Any input would be appreciated.

 

 

post #5020 of 5374

Hello everyone.  I was hoping for some feedback on this OTR cotton blazer I picked up for a steal.  It seems to fit my shoulders better than most OTR jackets, with minimal dimpling.  I think it may be a tad too tight in the waist area.  Do you think it is worth working with?  

 

 

 

post #5021 of 5374

I recently purchased two pairs of Howard Yount pants: one of the Italian fit (grey flannel) and one of the American fit (brown). What is Styleforum's opinions on these fits? Both are unhemmed now, yet pinned for the photos.

My worries are that the Italian fit are too tight (pocket flare, possibly can see pocket lining). However, I wonder if the American fit pants are too loose (baggy around the thigh, insufficient taper to the leg opening). I know I need to have the waist taken in on that pair and the seat cleaned up. I am leaning towards the American fit pants since they are more easily alterable (taking in vs. letting out) and my larger upper half seems to fit a more conservative pant style. What are others' thoughts?

 

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

AppleMark

 

 

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark


Edited by Rhodes112 - 6/27/14 at 8:51pm
post #5022 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by bklyndoc12 View Post

Hello everyone.  I was hoping for some feedback on this OTR cotton blazer I picked up for a steal.  It seems to fit my shoulders better than most OTR jackets, with minimal dimpling.  I think it may be a tad too tight in the waist area.  Do you think it is worth working with?  









sleeves are waaaay too long.
post #5023 of 5374

Hello all, 

 

I received this slim fit navy MTM suit from Black Lapel this week, and I'd appreciate your opinion on the fit. To me, it looks too wide around the shoulders and upper back, but this will be my first suit so my eye is probably not as sharp as yours!

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

 

 

post #5024 of 5374

I have a question for any tailors.  

 

I regularly have my dress pants tapered down the leg.  My tailor will typically take most of the fabric in through the outseam seam.  He has stated that he can only do so much before the pressed seam becomes off-center.   

 

I've heard that taking in the legs is typically done primarily through the outseam by other tailors as well.  My question is, why do tailors do this?  why not take it in equally from both inseam and outseam?

post #5025 of 5374
Quote:
I regularly have my dress pants tapered down the leg. My tailor will typically take most of the fabric in through the outseam seam. He has stated that he can only do so much before the pressed seam becomes off-center.

I've heard that taking in the legs is typically done primarily through the outseam by other tailors as well. My question is, why do tailors do this? why not take it in equally from both inseam and outseam?

It should be done on both the inseam and the out seam to keep the crease centered.
If you are tapering a significant amount it is best to open the inseam and out seam and reduce equal amounts on the front panel at the bottom and the knee and taper up thru the thigh to the hip. They should cut off the extra cloth and serge the seams again.

It is ok to reduce the back part more along the out seam and less along the curve of the inseam of the back part. Doing it this way (reducing the front panel and the back panels separately) you only have to adjust the crease of the back part, the front is the same as before and you won't have to deal with a double crease down the front leg. This is for tailored trousers and not jeans.

If the tailors you use only reduce the leg along the out seam they are taking a shortcut and not doing the alteration properly. You should expect to pay more if they take the steps described above due to the extra time it will take but the adjustment will be more of a recut than simply reducing the out seam.
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