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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 333

post #4981 of 5215

Hello,

 

I found this blazer on sale when visiting the RL store during the weekend. It's actually a size 36 (46 EU), but it fits rather large. The only problems I'm noticing is that the sleeves needs to be shortened, the waist needs to be taken in and the neck needs to be altered. Also, there seems to bunch up a little bit of fabric beneath the armholes when standing still. Is that something that will get fixed by taking in the waist?

 

Excuse me for these low quality pictures. They were taken in a hurry:

 

PRL blazer (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, is it fixable?


Edited by Baked Potato - 6/15/14 at 5:53pm
post #4982 of 5215

So I got this SP SC of Ebay and would love some input on alterations. I do tend to prefer a slimmer figure: the back needs work and the sleeves lengthened (non-working buttons, material available). To my surprise the coat is ventless. I would very much prefer double vents but figure I can live with trying out a ventless since I have never owned one before. The absence of vents require perhaps an even more well-sculptured back than would one with, but as the chest is on the tighter side (I have a rather large chest, or pecs whatever, for my size) my concern is how it would be affected by taking in the back. I know it shouldn't make much difference on the front but still. Either way, any input is much appreciated. Many thanks beforehand. Apologies for any bad/incorrectly taken pics.

 

 

 

 

post #4983 of 5215

Hi all,

 

I just received my first MTM shirt. Most of it fits fine, but the fabric in the circled area is billowing outward (the front side opposite of that region looks fine). What measurements should I change to resolve this issue? Thanks!

 

 

post #4984 of 5215
To Carl and all the other shirtmakers.

Is there a maximum amount of difference between a shirts waist and hip measurement that you recommend for a well balanced shirt?
I prefer a slim shirt and have reduced the waist and hip measurements as much as possible without restricting my motion, darts are added to the back.
Still I don't like the midsection of my shirts.
What bothers me is not so much the amount of extra fabric but the hourglass silhouette and what it means to the shape of the billowing.
Right now my shirts billow like in the red curve.

Measurements are
Chest 50,5cm
Half waist 43cm
Half hip, 30cm below the waist, 49cm

I'm interested in your opinion if maybe a shirt with less waist suppression would drape cleaner and look more masculine like in the green curve?
Optimized by JPEGmini 3.7.6.1L
Edited by Louis XIV - 6/17/14 at 10:06am
post #4985 of 5215
The billowing increases if you make the hips too small. You need room over the hips and that increases the hourglass shape. I like to cut the back shirt girth smaller than the front girth to keep the shirt trim at the waist. Your back at the waist is relatively flat in comparison to your front/stomach area and it is effective. Not sure if your maker can accommodate this but it helps. The darts help this too by keeping the hips full and the back waist shaped to your body. There is no correct ratio in custom work, it's based on the individual. May be different in RTW.
post #4986 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by indigoroots View Post

Hi all,

I just received my first MTM shirt. Most of it fits fine, but the fabric in the circled area is billowing outward (the front side opposite of that region looks fine). What measurements should I change to resolve this issue? Thanks!

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Don't do anything until you have laundered the shirt and worn it a few times. A bit of billowing is needed but will settle down after you launder the shirt.
post #4987 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Don't do anything until you have laundered the shirt and worn it a few times. A bit of billowing is needed but will settle down after you launder the shirt.

Mr. Despos:

I'd really appreciate feedback on my two shirts as well.
post #4988 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limniscate View Post

Mr. Despos:

I'd really appreciate feedback on my two shirts as well.

Your fit is a bit tricky as you have a fuller chest and need the cloth across your chest but don't need as much cloth across your back. The entire back could be reduced from the blades down to the hem. Maybe narrow the yoke. Sleeves are too long. The cuff stays where it is because of the cuff circumference but there is too much extra length in the sleeve
post #4989 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Your fit is a bit tricky as you have a fuller chest and need the cloth across your chest but don't need as much cloth across your back. The entire back could be reduced from the blades down to the hem. Maybe narrow the yoke. Sleeves are too long. The cuff stays where it is because of the cuff circumference but there is too much extra length in the sleeve

Are the sleeves too long on both shirts? They're not from the same maker. Thank you so much for your time!
post #4990 of 5215
I don't see anything to distinguish which shirt is # 1 and which is #2. They all look too long but one shirt less than the other.
post #4991 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I don't see anything to distinguish which shirt is # 1 and which is #2. They all look too long but one shirt less than the other.

I edited the post to make the distinction. If you could let me know how much you think the sleeves should come up on each shirt, I'd really appreciate it.
post #4992 of 5215
Any thôughts?
post #4993 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limniscate View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I don't see anything to distinguish which shirt is # 1 and which is #2. They all look too long but one shirt less than the other.

I edited the post to make the distinction. If you could let me know how much you think the sleeves should come up on each shirt, I'd really appreciate it.

I would have you unbutton the cuffs and let the sleeves hang down naturally. That's the only way to tell how long the sleeves are.
post #4994 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I would have you unbutton the cuffs and let the sleeves hang down naturally. That's the only way to tell how long the sleeves are.

Ok I will do that as soon as I can. Thank you so much!
post #4995 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Louche View Post

I just went to a very well-regarded alterations tailor near me that told me the back of this jacket could not be cleaned-up—the armholes are too high and the jacket is cut with drape behind the shoulders to allow for movement. Is he right?

@Despos
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

No easy way to clean up the back properly short of taking the back out and recutting it. There is a lot going on there and it's sort of complex. The cut of the jacket is wrong for you. The back is short and long at the same time. It's short over your blades and shoulders. Your left blade is more pronounced than the right blade.The shoulder line is causing the collar to sit so low and that is contributing to the diagonal pulls from the scye upward.

The back is long and resting on your hips, that's a balance issue. Hard to be certain from just a back view

If you want a clean back, it would be a big job that may or not have a perfect result. Is this RTW? If so, keep trying jackets that are cut better for your body type.
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