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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 332

post #4966 of 5196
Quick alterations question: if belt loops are attached inside of the waistband, is removing the waistband the only way to remove the belt loops?
post #4967 of 5196

Fishtacologin, that jacket seems like it's been designed to fit differently from a traditional blazer. In my opinion the XS is too tight in the chest and shoulders, but because of the nature of it you have a bit of freedom to wear the small as it is. If you wanted a closer fit you could start with slightly taking in the waist and shortening the sleeves. Either way, I think the small is a better starting point than the XS.

post #4968 of 5196
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishtacologin View Post
 

This might be a little different from the usual posts -- but I would really appreciate some feedback on the fit of a piece of outerwear that is styled like a blazer. I originally had one in size S, but exchanged for a size XS because the S was far too long / wide through the arms and body. Now I'm worried that the shoulders on the XS are too small.

 

Pictures of the XS:

qxNAqbP.jpg

 

Close up of the shoulders:

akxQKcz.jpg

 

Older pictures of the S:

SXPA8oy.jpg 

 

If the XS is too small, how -- if it is possible -- could I tailor the S to fit better? The jacket is a Barbour Commander.

I think Barbour has their own tailoring and repair service. You'd probably want to go to them for this.

post #4969 of 5196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Quick alterations question: if belt loops are attached inside of the waistband, is removing the waistband the only way to remove the belt loops?

The waistband curtain inside the trouser must be opened by releasing the tacks and then the blindstitch underneath. This will allow access to the seam where the waistband is physically sewn to the trouser body. From there, the belt loops can be removed and then the hole can be resewn. The entire waistband does not need to come off. This is a little bit of a job but not as much as actually installing the belt loops so make sure you definitely want it done before you do it.

post #4970 of 5196
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

The waistband curtain inside the trouser must be opened by releasing the tacks and then the blindstitch underneath. This will allow access to the seam where the waistband is physically sewn to the trouser body. From there, the belt loops can be removed and then the hole can be resewn. The entire waistband does not need to come off. This is a little bit of a job but not as much as actually installing the belt loops so make sure you definitely want it done before you do it.

 

Thank you, that's not as bad I had feared! I have some extra fabric that I intend on making into side adjusters, and if that turns out well I'm planning on removing the belt loops and stitching on the side adjusters instead. 

post #4971 of 5196
And that would def be the time to do it. If you need buckles, shoot me a pm and I'll send you some.
I have side adjusters made for almost every suit I sell even if the client is wearing a belt. Got a ton of them laying around. Heck...chances are I have entire sets of side adjusters already made if its a common fabric.
post #4972 of 5196
I just got these shirts from two different makers and am wondering what adjustments should be made:

Shirt 1





Shirt 2



Edited by Limniscate - 6/17/14 at 3:37pm
post #4973 of 5196
Hey Everyone, I was hoping for some feedback on my recent MTM experience with these gray flannel trousers.  Any tips for the next pair?
 

 

 

Thanks in advance!

post #4974 of 5196

Anyone have any tips on what to do to make the shoulder better? This is not just the weird position. There is an extra fold of fabric leaning forward when standing normal too. 

Looking to order a new linen from luxire.

 

Thanks,

post #4975 of 5196

Dear Tailors:

 

This is a Kent Wang trial suit. I’ve seen many excellent results from KW, but as this is my first suit with them I thought it would be wise to get a second opinion to ensure the best outcome. Please let me know what changes you would suggest for the MTM version (aside from shortening the sleeves and inseam). Thank you in advance for any direction you could provide.

 

Front of Jacket: (Click to show)
I’m generally happy with the front, but would you say that it is bordering on too short? I was thinking about asking for 2cm more length, and then lowering the buttoning point the same as a matter of preference. I’ve studied this thread a little bit, and think I may have a low shoulder, but I’d elect for the soft padding unless my shoulders are too imbalanced for it in your estimation.
 

 

Shoulders and Arms (Click to show)
The shoulders feel slightly snug and I get a hint of dimpling – does this indicate that they are not quite wide enough? The sleeves also gather around the deltoid. Is this related to the height of the armhole?


Shoulders and Arms (Click to show)
 

 

Back (Click to show)
I suspect the bump below the collar relates to the dimpling of the shoulders – should this be widened a cm or so from the center seam? How would I clean up the area between the upper back and arm pits? Is it simply too much fabric? You can see the deltoid gathering I mentioned earlier best in this angle.

 

 

Trousers (Click to show)
The waist is roomy, yet the pockets flare a tiny bit. Should the seat be let out a cm or so? Should we lower the rear rise to smooth the line from my behind to the knees, or is that caused by a different issue? As a matter of preference, I am increasing the front rise a touch and the leg opening a fair bit so that they may fall more cleanly over my shoes. As they sit now, the excess fabric tucked underneath makes me appear bow-legged.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #4976 of 5196
Good morning. The sleeves are too long on this jacket for sure, but I'm most worried about the dimples at the shoulders. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
post #4977 of 5196
I just went to a very well-regarded alterations tailor near me that told me the back of this jacket could not be cleaned-up—the armholes are too high and the jacket is cut with drape behind the shoulders to allow for movement. Is he right?

@Despos


Edited by The Louche - 6/12/14 at 6:19pm
post #4978 of 5196
I just received this from suit supply. Needs a little pressing near the bottom. It's a Lazio fit in 38R. It's the best fitting off the rack suit I've ever tried and as you can tell, it needs work.I have a lot of anterior pelvic tilt, and I'm assuming weird shoulder slope. This is my best fitting jacket in the shoulders and it still has the rumples in the back. If I force my back straight, all the wrinkles in the back disappear, but I can't do that for more than 5 seconds. Can a tailor make this jacket drape properly in the back? Any other suggestions? Thanks.




post #4979 of 5196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaniel View Post

I just received this from suit supply. Needs a little pressing near the bottom. It's a Lazio fit in 38R. It's the best fitting off the rack suit I've ever tried and as you can tell, it needs work.I have a lot of anterior pelvic tilt, and I'm assuming weird shoulder slope. This is my best fitting jacket in the shoulders and it still has the rumples in the back. If I force my back straight, all the wrinkles in the back disappear, but I can't do that for more than 5 seconds. Can a tailor make this jacket drape properly in the back? Any other suggestions? Thanks.
You probably need to let out the back, which is too tight at the moment.
post #4980 of 5196
Also, the pants are too short, and due to the cuffs, that's clearly fixable. Only taking the suit to a tailor will tell if he or she can make the shoulders look good.
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