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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 324post #4846 of 54434/29/14 at 10:56am
Styleforum Top Pickspost #4847 of 54434/29/14 at 11:34amQuote:Originally Posted by Rory Duffy
Looks like knock knees, not usual with men who are typically straight to bow leg.
The cloth twists in the leg causing the wrinkling at the knees as they are coming together and opening out for the feet.
In bespoke this would have been allowed for in the cut of the trouser, the leg needs to be cut closed. However thats no help here.
It can be alter though the process is a little unorthodox.
Rip out the inside leg seam and side seam to crotch level, stretch the cloth on the side seam above and below the knee and shrink the cloth on the opposite side (inside leg seam) the shrinken cloth can be held in place by using straight grain tape.
Would only advise this as a method of last resort, and may not work with light weight cloths and non wools.
Hey hey are you saying my legs aren't shapely? ;)
Thanks for the advice. If it's that tricky of an alteration, I may just have to live with it, it's an inexpensive suit.post #4848 of 54434/29/14 at 11:42amQuote:Originally Posted by Isolation
Hi, these are my three suits/suit jackets from Hong Kong. The 2 button is WW Chan, the other two are Simpson Sin, which is 1/3 the price. On the black jacket in two of the pictures I think the fabric got caught on the my right, but you can see from the other picture it hangs normally.
Would like to know whether significant alterations are required, a general comment on the quality/comparison of quality between the two tailors, as I plan on going to them for more in the future, and if I do, what I should look for for my fittings to ask them to change.
Thanks a lot.
Bump? Some extra photos:post #4849 of 54434/29/14 at 1:00pmpost #4850 of 54434/29/14 at 9:07pm
The shirt has just been washed but yet to be ironed, sorrry about that. Any advice on how the shoulder should fit on this shirt? I inserted the black lines to show the shoulder seams.
Secondly, though I know the pic is pretty unclear for this, how could the buttons be adjusted to get a better collar roll?post #4851 of 54434/30/14 at 6:22am
Due to budget constraints I decided to purchase a tuxedo from Indochino. I think they give you $75 worth of alterations if need be so I figured I would get some critique from the experts here before contacting them regarding the changes. I know that I will need to get the pants shortened and the waist taken in a tad but please let me know what you think....THANK YOU!post #4852 of 54434/30/14 at 1:24pmpost #4853 of 54434/30/14 at 5:07pmQuote:Originally Posted by Rory Duffy
Hey Blong, had a look over your pics and thought I'd offer my two cents.
Divots on the sleeve caps can be caused by a number of issues, too tight through the shoulders, too tight through the bicep, too long in the sleeve cap or a combination of these.
Its probably too long in the sleeve cap, this is more common with men who work out, their arms bend more and tend to sit off the body resulting in less sleeve cap being required.
Its sitting off on the left side as you said, it needs to be crooken on this side to bring it on to the neck (check out my video on crookening and mark stitching, for a brief explanation https://vimeo.com/85302399).
Difficult to do on a finished coat as there is rarely the inlay on the shoulder point to maintain the shoulder width during alteration.
From the side view is lots short in the back balance, this is causing the visible drag on the left side at the back of the armhole, see too how the coat fails to hug the wearers back under the blades.
As for it sitting off the chest, a neck dart would solve this issue. The dart is placed under the lapel through the break line stemming from the gorge directed to the prominence of the chest. I believe all MTM and RTW should have this dart as standard.
The trousers need to be shrunk at the back of the thighs and stretched for the calf muscle, Jeffery D posted some great pics here the last time we where discussing shrinking and stretching of trousers. The hems are a little long as you say, this is probably to do with the hem width. The narrower the hem the shorter the trouser, minus a 1/2" in length for every inch off width, meaning a 18" hem would be 1/2" longer than a 17" hem.
In summary, take a 1/4" off the top of the sleeves, introduce a neck dart (on your next suit) of 3/8" through the break and pass up the back balance 3/4" (difficult to do on a finished coat as there is little inlay on the hem and none on the shoulders). Shrink and stretch the trousers and shorten to your desired length.
Thank you for the feedback. Much appreciated! Could you help me understand your recommendations?
* When you suggest taking 1/4" off the top of the sleeves, are you referring to your earlier comment about the sleeve caps being too long? If I understand, this isn't about shortening where the sleeves hit my wrist, it is about preventing the caps from jutting beyond my natural shoulders, correct?
* I've googled neck dart and haven't found a good explanation of it or what it does. It sounds like it's some sort of fold sewn into the fabric?
Indochino is willing to remake the jacket, so I'm trying to figure out how to explain all of this to them.
Thanks again!post #4854 of 54434/30/14 at 7:15pm
Do you mind if I ask, how much you paid for it?
When choosing a Bespoke or MTM tailor you must weight up how much you are willing to pay, verses the level of fit you expect. Well fitted garments take longer to make and need more fitting.
I don't think Indochino is at fault if you fall outside there stock size unless you did a fitting. You must always expect to alter a suit after it made if its straight to finish.
When I make a suit for a client the quality of fit and construction is built into the price,
Does Indochino offer a fitting service with their MTM?
I glanced at his website and it seems to be a very reasonable price suit at around $650 a suit, was that the service you choose?
As contributers to this forum we have a certain responsibility to the reputation of the tailor who made the suit you post. I am sure Indochino set out to meet your satisfaction but perhaps the level of fit you desired fell out side the parameter of their usually services.
Am sure you are happy to hear they will replace the jacket, its great to see tailors going to that length to please their clients. Making a suit to fit a client well, in one shot, is no easy task, and I would always recommended meeting with the tailor when commissioning the suit.
They must have an impressive setup to absorb the remake on a jacket.
If you need any more help just PM me.
Rorypost #4855 of 54435/1/14 at 7:46ampost #4856 of 54435/1/14 at 9:12amQuote:Originally Posted by LukeRoz
Due to budget constraints I decided to purchase a tuxedo from Indochino. I think they give you $75 worth of alterations if need be so I figured I would get some critique from the experts here before contacting them regarding the changes. I know that I will need to get the pants shortened and the waist taken in a tad but please let me know what you think....THANK YOU! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I doubt you can save this jacket with alterations. The chest is way too small as you can see the oval shaped opening of the lapels across your chest. You have a low right shoulder that is not adjusted for. The front balance is short and the fronts are scissoring. Sleeves need to be recut and hung properly.
Unless the maker says they know how to adjust this for you, look elsewhere.post #4857 of 54435/1/14 at 9:20ampost #4858 of 54435/1/14 at 10:24amShort front balance creates scissoring. Scissoring is how the front edges cross over each other from the buttoning point to the hem.
The back has horizontal folds of cloth along the mid section because the back is long in relation to the front. Long back/short front.
The wrinkles along the back part of the sleeves is from the sleeve not fitting into the armhole properly.
Biggest concern is the shoulder line and skimpy chest. These cannot be altered properly and are key to fitting you properly.
Best to send these pictures to Indochino rather than explaining with words.post #4859 of 54435/1/14 at 9:21pm
Up to how many centimeters could be trousers taken in stylistically without being noticeable? I have somehow gone 5 cm slimmer in my waist in the last 2 months. The tailor where the suits are made told me up to 5 cm is safe before the balance of the pockets becomes ugly. I think I am inclined to order new pair trousers for most necessary suits at first time and have the bigger pants as a back up for me future bigger me.
What do you think is the best solution? Take in up to 5 cm or order new trousers?
Thanks!post #4860 of 54435/2/14 at 5:41pm
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