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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 318

post #4756 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForTweed123 View Post
 

Can excess fabric in the lap be reduced? I have two pairs of dress pants that need to be taken in at the waist and tapered a little bit as well as shortened slightly. These pants both have double outward pleats and a 12.5 inch rise. Will the excess fabric just go away when they are altered in other ways? 

 

To answer the first question...

 

No.

 

Pleated trousers intentionally contain extra fullness in the lap to do precisely what yours are doing when you sit down!

If you don't want that to happen, you need to have the pleats removed or buy flat fronts.

 

Again, only loosely take the advice of folks in this thread who are not actual garment technicians. It only creates confusion.

post #4757 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by logan858 View Post
 

Ok, I have a question for any of the tailors out there.   I often see suits that bulge at the lapels, and i've wondered what exactly is causing this.   It seems more common in slim fitting suits, but I can easily find slimmer fits which avoid this, without giving up anything in the fit.   I've also at different times seen it on more generous cuts, and with bigger guys.

 

 

Now, obviously this suit fits like garbage, in a couple different areas, but i'm only concerned with *why* he is getting that effect across the chest and lapels.

 

 

 

now here's a tom ford, very slim, and yet there is no bulging (or rather very little comparatively) in the lapels.

 

 

 

 

what exactly is causing this, is it the chest, shoulders, etc, or is it different in different cases?  I have seen the odd suit doing this on bigger guys too where the shoulders are actually an inch or so too big, but where the guy has a really big chest, and the lapels continue to bulge like this.  

In the first photo, it looks like the model is pulling his shoulders backward in a pose. In a slim fitted jacket, there's obviously very little wearing ease over the chest (and the rest of the body), so much of any movement will create what may appear to be a fitting problem especially when photographed.

However, if it's actually because of the posture of the person, lapel popping usually occurs for 2 reasons. 1 is that there may not be enough fullness over the fore parts to cover the chest. When someone has a barrel chest, a pattern alteration is done to induce fullness over the chest. 2 is a front balance that is not a correct length. A big chest needs horizontal and vertical fullness. If those two issues are combined, it's going to be worse.

If you see a skinny guy with no chest at all having these popping lapels, it is probably the latter reason. If the front balance is not the right length over the chest, the lapels will easily fan away from the chest when the chest is expanded or shoulders pulled back.

post #4758 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

To have this done right, you simply need to take it to a qualified tailor. The jacket and trousers need quite a bit of work to get them to a point where they'll fit. 

 

Also, only very carefully and superficially take advice from anyone in this thread who does not actually make garments or take them apart/put them back together because they don't know what they're talking about.

 

The folks you can listen to are: Despos, a tailor, jefferyd, Rory Duffy (these guys are all bespoke level tailors)

 

And me, I am not a bespoke tailor but I am a dedicated menswear only alterations tailor. Therefore, my skill is limited and you probably won't see me comment on something my skillset can't deal with.

Thank you OTC.  Do you have a guesstimate to the total cost for this level of undertaking?  I figure the trousers will need hemmed, waist taken in, upper and lower leg tapered, and I guess the seat/crotch taken in as well.  The jacket will probably need the waist suppressed and possibly the length decreased. 

 

If you had a chance to look at the pictures I posted, and based on my rough idea of what will need altered, do you think it's worth altering; or is it too much for a SS suit fresh off the rack?

post #4759 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterFu View Post
 

I have no personal experience with SS MTM, but at least you'd be starting with some basic measurements that are specific to your height, build and, I assume, shoulder width and slope. I would ask over in the SS thread and see what other people say.

 

As for your tailor, I'd check his workload; he might just have more work than he can reasonably handle. My tailor is excellent, but I still have to keep after him and, on more than one occasion, he has been seriously late in delivery (though, he has never mis-measured one of my items). Also, just because he has the tape around the neck and looks the part, doesn't mean he actually knows what he is doing. My tailor keeps his tape measures (he seems to have amassed about 20 of them) on a hook next to the fitting area and, based on how he dresses, you'd never guess his profession (and there is no music at all, just a stiflingly stuffy workshop). I would be very wary of the other tailor simply because if she doesn't have a background in men's tailoring, you are asking for trouble.

 

A good tailor will understand what fits (regardless of fashion) and will generally work with their customer to deliver what they want. I have mostly traditional fitting clothes, but I do have a few (several from SS specifically) "fashion forward" items and my tailor (who is in his mid to late 60's) had no issue understanding what they were about and even commented that the SS items I brought him were "very nice, modern look".

 

As for when is a suit to baggy, I can't speak for the professionals on this thread, but I have been amazed at what my tailor has managed to salvage. Suits that, after losing quite a bit of weight, were terribly baggy, square and ill-fitting were made literally better than the original MTM results. These were expensive (and beautiful suits), so I was willing to spend hundreds of dollars to have them substantially reworked. I wouldn't pay for that level of surgery on a just purchased OTR piece.

 

Also, whereabouts do you live?

 

Thanks for your reply Fu; I appreciate the feedback.  I didn't mean to imply that tape around his neck and/or jazz music was a sufficient or necessary condition for him being a good tailor, I was just trying to convey that I got the feeling he knew what he was doing based on the overall atmosphere of his shop (I didn't mention the newspaper article from 30 years ago praising his work he had framed on the wall or the myriad other items that deemed him legitimate in my mind).

 

I live in south-central PA...driving distance to Baltimore/DC and Philly if you were going to suggest going to the nearest big city.

post #4760 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

 

To answer the first question...

 

No.

 

Pleated trousers intentionally contain extra fullness in the lap to do precisely what yours are doing when you sit down!

If you don't want that to happen, you need to have the pleats removed or buy flat fronts.

 

Again, only loosely take the advice of folks in this thread who are not actual garment technicians. It only creates confusion.

The only reason I ask is because I actually prefer the look of pleats on high rise trousers, but wasn't sure if there should be excess fabric or not because I'm used to low rise flat front jeans & chinos and this is my first pair of pants with pleats & a high rise. I just always hear that excess fabric is the result of a bad fit. 

post #4761 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForTweed123 View Post
 

The only reason I ask is because I actually prefer the look of pleats on high rise trousers, but wasn't sure if there should be excess fabric or not because I'm used to low rise flat front jeans & chinos and this is my first pair of pants with pleats & a high rise. I just always hear that excess fabric is the result of a bad fit. 

Well then I guess the entire concept of the drape cut means bad fit?

 

I digress...

 

I know what you mean, but don't let the skin clinging slim fits of today make you think that the design of your clothes is wrong.

post #4762 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

Well then I guess the entire concept of the drape cut means bad fit?

 

I digress...

 

I know what you mean, but don't let the skin clinging slim fits of today make you think that the design of your clothes is wrong.

No I agree with you. I prefer slightly fuller pants as well. I have just never experienced it and only heard bad things about it. I figure over time I will adjust to the look. It is more comfortable sitting and there is no crotch/thigh pulling. 

post #4763 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by throw4five View Post
 

Thank you OTC.  Do you have a guesstimate to the total cost for this level of undertaking?  I figure the trousers will need hemmed, waist taken in, upper and lower leg tapered, and I guess the seat/crotch taken in as well.  The jacket will probably need the waist suppressed and possibly the length decreased. 

 

If you had a chance to look at the pictures I posted, and based on my rough idea of what will need altered, do you think it's worth altering; or is it too much for a SS suit fresh off the rack?

 

 

All depends on the tailor and what they ultimately decide to do. Most of what the pants need might be priced consistently from tailor to tailor but the jacket is another story.

 

Is it worth altering? Well, that's a question only you can answer. There's a lot of work there, for sure. Alterations should always be kept to a relative minimum if possible.

 

Anyway, you say you're from south central PA? I'm up in the lehigh valley and have a few clients in your area. My guess is near $200 tops for alterations.

 

Depending on what you paid for the suit, you might be able to score a solid MTM for near the same total price. In fact, I know a guy..:sarcasm:

post #4764 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForTweed123 View Post
 

No I agree with you. I prefer slightly fuller pants as well. I have just never experienced it and only heard bad things about it. I figure over time I will adjust to the look. It is more comfortable sitting and there is no crotch/thigh pulling. 

 

If you ever get trousers made, ask for a single pleat with a shallower depth or darted fronts. Does the same job of placing comfortable fullness over that area but can allow you to maintain a still sleek look.

post #4765 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

 

If you ever get trousers made, ask for a single pleat with a shallower depth or darted fronts. Does the same job of placing comfortable fullness over that area but can allow you to maintain a still sleek look.

Is it possible to get pants darted by a tailor? Or do they have to be there initially to be there at all?

post #4766 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForTweed123 View Post
 

Is it possible to get pants darted by a tailor? Or do they have to be there initially to be there at all?

It is. Basically the waistband is removed from back to front all the way to the fly. The extra allowance at the back seam (if there is any) is let out and transferred to the front in the form of said darts.. The waistband is replaced. It's a tricky operation and isn't for everyone. Letting out the fullness in the back will straighten the seat curve and if you have a more curved/prominent seat, will create fit problems there.

 

With pleated trousers, you can have the pleats removed. You can also have the small pleat turned into a dart. I don't do it often, but when I remove pleats, I usually leave a dart up front. One, because it helps leave fullness up there. Two, because pleats contain so much fullness that it's nearly impossible to remove it all without leaving a dart.

post #4767 of 5201
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

It is. Basically the waistband is removed from back to front all the way to the fly. The extra allowance at the back seam (if there is any) is let out and transferred to the front in the form of said darts.. The waistband is replaced. It's a tricky operation and isn't for everyone. Letting out the fullness in the back will straighten the seat curve and if you have a more curved/prominent seat, will create fit problems there.

 

With pleated trousers, you can have the pleats removed. You can also have the small pleat turned into a dart. I don't do it often, but when I remove pleats, I usually leave a dart up front. One, because it helps leave fullness up there. Two, because pleats contain so much fullness that it's nearly impossible to remove it all without leaving a dart.

Ohhh okay, I understand. That does sound complicated. I will post fit pics soon to get an opinion on what needs to be altered. 

post #4768 of 5201

Quick fit critique on this Sky Blue Oxford after a day of wear? 

 

Currently doing this for next shirt:

-0.25 cuff size

-0.25 bicep

-0.5 sleeve length

+1.0 bottom button/hem

 

Thought about going -0.25 armhole. Also adding side pleats on the back. 

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

Thank you.

post #4769 of 5201

Hi guys,

 

I bought a Zegna suit about 2 years ago and since then i have been bulking (gained 40 pounds ) and I'm on my cutting cycle again.  I probably gained 30 pounds of fat and 10 pounds of lean mass.

 

My question is can my suit be "taken out" on the chest?  This was an expensive suit and i feel like the length, waist and the shoulders still fit me well.  My chest grew in size 

 

Please let me know if you think:

1. Does the suit fit in the shoulders and waist and length? (in my opinion it does)

2. Can the chest area be altered? (taken out)

Here are some pics:

 

 

Sorry for the bad pics but its hard to take a self shot of yourself without the phone covering the mirror

 

You can probably see from the side view that the chest part of my jacket lifts up so I'm wondering if i can have this altered?


(im not wearing a collared shirt because none of them fit me as well now in the chest area.)

the reason i want to ask here first is cause i can trust what people say on here rather than a tailor that just wants money 

I also want to have some insight before i try taking it to a reputable tailor that is about 30 miles away from me.
 

post #4770 of 5201
As far as I know the chest cannot be touched. I would like to hear what one of the tailors has to say about it.
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