or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 317

post #4741 of 5375

Really cool that jefferyD is commenting here again. Since we were discussing this issue in the Noodles thread, JefferyD's writeup on this should be required reading for those who want to learn:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror#post_2686570

post #4742 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

 

Def keep the 48R. Have the collar roll removed ( it is posture related). The jacket would require more front suppression so it doesn't pull around your sides. This is more involved than the normal sideseam adjustment. See the tailor's tutorials and look for the thread on jacket waist suppression. See the example where the front part only gets sucked in.

With the pants, it's harder to tell because you had no pics for us to see but it's probably releasing the back part of the fork and perhaps reshaping the lower part of the seat to give you more room back there.

 

Thanks you for the reply OTCtailor! I'm going to mention this to my tailor when the time comes for the alterations! :fistbump:

post #4743 of 5375

So i just received a SuitSupply Washington 40S in the mail today.  The sales rep at SS wanted to get me in a 38S but I felt like I was going to rip the jacket in half when I moved my arms.  I think the 40 fits me in the shoulders and chest, but is very big everywhere else.  Below are some pictures of me in the suit.  I would appreciate as much feedback as I can get regarding what needs tailored, and any other general information that you may deem relevant.  Feel free to be very critical if you want, I won't be offended.  I look forward to your replies; thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #4744 of 5375

bump.  anybody?  I've received some feedback on the suitsupply thread, and even they recommend getting the expert opinions of this thread. 

post #4745 of 5375

IMO overall the jacket doesn't seem that big so it's not bad

obviously pants need to be shorter

photo implies there's maybe too much room in the legs too so maybe you could also slim then a bit

if the shoulders fit you can slim the jacket via side seams, let experienced tailor do that

if you don't have any perfernce regarding sleeve length maybe it would be better if some of the cuff of the shirt was showing

post #4746 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by throw4five View Post
 

So i just received a SuitSupply Washington 40S in the mail today.  The sales rep at SS wanted to get me in a 38S but I felt like I was going to rip the jacket in half when I moved my arms.  I think the 40 fits me in the shoulders and chest, but is very big everywhere else.  Below are some pictures of me in the suit.  I would appreciate as much feedback as I can get regarding what needs tailored, and any other general information that you may deem relevant.  Feel free to be very critical if you want, I won't be offended.  I look forward to your replies; thanks!

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So let's start with the pants; seat and waist both need to be taken in quite a bit. The suit jacket needs to be tapered with quite a bit more waist suppression and, possibly taken in at the center seam as well. The jacket length is actually correct if we are going by traditionalist standards (though, by SS standard, it's about 2 inches long), length-wise, I'd wear it as is. I'd have a tailor measure the sleeves as they look about 1/4 inch long (though this is a matter of personal preference). The shoulder and chest fit both look reasonable, which is promising because these are two of the areas that really aren't worth fixing. Obviously, I am just a laymen, so I'd consult with an actual tailor.

 

The biggest issue is not that this suit can't be made to fit well, it's that you will need a real alterations tailor. Not the seamstress at the dry-cleaner and, frankly, not the alterations tailors at SS, as neither of these groups will have skill to do the work right. You will have to spend some money to get this suit up to par, so it's up to you to decide if you want to spend more money on this SS suit, or go a different route (you might want to look at SS MTM).

 

Sidebar: I have purchased items from SS before, and I have to say that while I liked what I got, they needed a lot of tweaks to get right (far more than OTR Brooks Brothers or Paul Stuart items). Their sizing is, IMHO, all over the place due to flaky replication of their house patterns. The 3 piece Lazio linen suit I bought had massive size discrepancies right out of the box: the waistcoat fit perfectly, jacket was clearly an inch+ smaller in the chest than its labeling indicated, the pants were over two inches too large at the waist. It was a big pain (and more money than I would have liked to have spent) getting it right. The second jacket I bought from them fit perfectly except the sleeves were ridiculously long. I sent it back, and the second example they sent me had the same issue and, thanks to their instance on working cuffs, required serious hand work to fix (Note to SS: If Paul Stuart can skip putting working cuffs on their OTR jackets, you don't need to festoon all of your jackets with them either). It is a testament to the fact that SS does make some unique stuff that I was willing to put up with these issues and fix them.

post #4747 of 5375

Can excess fabric in the lap be reduced? I have two pairs of dress pants that need to be taken in at the waist and tapered a little bit as well as shortened slightly. These pants both have double outward pleats and a 12.5 inch rise. Will the excess fabric just go away when they are altered in other ways? 

post #4748 of 5375

taking in dress pants at the waist by a reasonable amount is an easy fix, contrary to say jeans

post #4749 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by wojt View Post
 

taking in dress pants at the waist by a reasonable amount is an easy fix, contrary to say jeans

Okay I just wasn't sure if it required it's own fix. So then I assume the excess fabric when sitting is just excess waist fabric that bunches up?

post #4750 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterFu View Post
 

So let's start with the pants; seat and waist both need to be taken in quite a bit. The suit jacket needs to be tapered with quite a bit more waist suppression and, possibly taken in at the center seam as well. The jacket length is actually correct if we are going by traditionalist standards (though, by SS standard, it's about 2 inches long), length-wise, I'd wear it as is. I'd have a tailor measure the sleeves as they look about 1/4 inch long (though this is a matter of personal preference). The shoulder and chest fit both look reasonable, which is promising because these are two of the areas that really aren't worth fixing. Obviously, I am just a laymen, so I'd consult with an actual tailor.

 

The biggest issue is not that this suit can't be made to fit well, it's that you will need a real alterations tailor. Not the seamstress at the dry-cleaner and, frankly, not the alterations tailors at SS, as neither of these groups will have skill to do the work right. You will have to spend some money to get this suit up to par, so it's up to you to decide if you want to spend more money on this SS suit, or go a different route (you might want to look at SS MTM).

 

Sidebar: I have purchased items from SS before, and I have to say that while I liked what I got, they needed a lot of tweaks to get right (far more than OTR Brooks Brothers or Paul Stuart items). Their sizing is, IMHO, all over the place due to flaky replication of their house patterns. The 3 piece Lazio linen suit I bought had massive size discrepancies right out of the box: the waistcoat fit perfectly, jacket was clearly an inch+ smaller in the chest than its labeling indicated, the pants were over two inches too large at the waist. It was a big pain (and more money than I would have liked to have spent) getting it right. The second jacket I bought from them fit perfectly except the sleeves were ridiculously long. I sent it back, and the second example they sent me had the same issue and, thanks to their instance on working cuffs, required serious hand work to fix (Note to SS: If Paul Stuart can skip putting working cuffs on their OTR jackets, you don't need to festoon all of your jackets with them either). It is a testament to the fact that SS does make some unique stuff that I was willing to put up with these issues and fix them.

 

 

I bought the suit under the impression you alluded to regarding the shoulders and chest--as long as they fit correctly, the rest of the suit can be made to fit properly.  I did factor in the cost of significant alterations to the price of the suit when I made the purchase.  I wonder if it would end up being about the same price to just go MTM from the start with SS?  

 

Regarding tailors, that's actually an issue in itself; I've recently found what seems to be a good tailor locally.  He has all the characteristics I think of when an old-world tailor comes to mind: cloth measuring tape forever around his neck, big band music in the background, been tailoring for 60 years.  I also have some reservations about him though: he's had another suit of mine I just purchased for over 2 weeks now, every time I go in to pick it up, he's either forgotten to do something, or tailored it to the wrong measurements.  I'm honestly starting to wonder if he's suffering from a little bit of alzheimer's; which I feel really bad about, because that disease seams like one of the worst ways to go...

 

I was considering taking the suit back to SS to get tailored because they know the style of the suit.  My local guy is classically trained and may have a hard time capturing the essence of the fashion-forward SS look.  There is another Ukrainian lady who seams to have a good business, but from the looks of her shop, she specializes in women's apparel, so I wonder how well she can make a man's suit fit well.  You aren't the first person I've read state the SS tailors aren't really worth their weight in needles and threads, so I'm stuck between a women's tailor (who gets very good reviews for her women's work) and an older gentleman who seems to mess the job up a few times before he gets it correct.

 

Regarding the suit itself, is there a point at which, even though the shoulders and chest fit, the rest of the suit is just too baggy to tailor; a point at which the amount of cloth that would need to be removed may make a good-looking suit an improbable result?

post #4751 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeedForTweed123 View Post
 

Okay I just wasn't sure if it required it's own fix. So then I assume the excess fabric when sitting is just excess waist fabric that bunches up?

 

I wish I could tell you that, but I don't know. Best would be to visit a good tailor who alters suits and/or sews them himself. He will tell you what he can do safely. It should be relatively cheap to fix, if it's fixable(from what you say it should be fixable at least to an extent). 

post #4752 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by throw4five View Post
 

 

 

I bought the suit under the impression you alluded to regarding the shoulders and chest--as long as they fit correctly, the rest of the suit can be made to fit properly.  I did factor in the cost of significant alterations to the price of the suit when I made the purchase.  I wonder if it would end up being about the same price to just go MTM from the start with SS?  

 

Regarding tailors, that's actually an issue in itself; I've recently found what seems to be a good tailor locally.  He has all the characteristics I think of when an old-world tailor comes to mind: cloth measuring tape forever around his neck, big band music in the background, been tailoring for 60 years.  I also have some reservations about him though: he's had another suit of mine I just purchased for over 2 weeks now, every time I go in to pick it up, he's either forgotten to do something, or tailored it to the wrong measurements.  I'm honestly starting to wonder if he's suffering from a little bit of alzheimer's; which I feel really bad about, because that disease seams like one of the worst ways to go...

 

I was considering taking the suit back to SS to get tailored because they know the style of the suit.  My local guy is classically trained and may have a hard time capturing the essence of the fashion-forward SS look.  There is another Ukrainian lady who seams to have a good business, but from the looks of her shop, she specializes in women's apparel, so I wonder how well she can make a man's suit fit well.  You aren't the first person I've read state the SS tailors aren't really worth their weight in needles and threads, so I'm stuck between a women's tailor (who gets very good reviews for her women's work) and an older gentleman who seems to mess the job up a few times before he gets it correct.

 

Regarding the suit itself, is there a point at which, even though the shoulders and chest fit, the rest of the suit is just too baggy to tailor; a point at which the amount of cloth that would need to be removed may make a good-looking suit an improbable result?

I have no personal experience with SS MTM, but at least you'd be starting with some basic measurements that are specific to your height, build and, I assume, shoulder width and slope. I would ask over in the SS thread and see what other people say.

 

As for your tailor, I'd check his workload; he might just have more work than he can reasonably handle. My tailor is excellent, but I still have to keep after him and, on more than one occasion, he has been seriously late in delivery (though, he has never mis-measured one of my items). Also, just because he has the tape around the neck and looks the part, doesn't mean he actually knows what he is doing. My tailor keeps his tape measures (he seems to have amassed about 20 of them) on a hook next to the fitting area and, based on how he dresses, you'd never guess his profession (and there is no music at all, just a stiflingly stuffy workshop). I would be very wary of the other tailor simply because if she doesn't have a background in men's tailoring, you are asking for trouble.

 

A good tailor will understand what fits (regardless of fashion) and will generally work with their customer to deliver what they want. I have mostly traditional fitting clothes, but I do have a few (several from SS specifically) "fashion forward" items and my tailor (who is in his mid to late 60's) had no issue understanding what they were about and even commented that the SS items I brought him were "very nice, modern look".

 

As for when is a suit to baggy, I can't speak for the professionals on this thread, but I have been amazed at what my tailor has managed to salvage. Suits that, after losing quite a bit of weight, were terribly baggy, square and ill-fitting were made literally better than the original MTM results. These were expensive (and beautiful suits), so I was willing to spend hundreds of dollars to have them substantially reworked. I wouldn't pay for that level of surgery on a just purchased OTR piece.

 

Also, whereabouts do you live?

post #4753 of 5375

Ok, I have a question for any of the tailors out there.   I often see suits that bulge at the lapels, and i've wondered what exactly is causing this.   It seems more common in slim fitting suits, but I can easily find slimmer fits which avoid this, without giving up anything in the fit.   I've also at different times seen it on more generous cuts, and with bigger guys.

 

 

Now, obviously this suit fits like garbage, in a couple different areas, but i'm only concerned with *why* he is getting that effect across the chest and lapels.

 

 

 

now here's a tom ford, very slim, and yet there is no bulging (or rather very little comparatively) in the lapels.

 

 

 

 

what exactly is causing this, is it the chest, shoulders, etc, or is it different in different cases?  I have seen the odd suit doing this on bigger guys too where the shoulders are actually an inch or so too big, but where the guy has a really big chest, and the lapels continue to bulge like this.  

post #4754 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

Hi. I got these two suits from low-mid end tailors in HK. I will be returning soon and am considering returning to these tailors or alternatively other ones, and as such I would like comments on their handiwork, quality/value, opinions on which/whether I should go for more suits, and so on. These two suits cost between 500-600 USD. When I got them I couldn't have known better as they are some of my first suits, and even now I find them to be decent, but I would like opinions of people with higher standard. Please don't mind the wet patch on the linen suit I had some water spilled onto it. Also sorry for the pictures not being quite straight and clear I was in a hurry.

 

[pictures removed]

 

Thanks for looking.

I feel like my previous photos of this jacket was not very indicative so I took a new set. Somehow manage to screw up and forgot to adjust my tie properly, but whatever.

 

Thanks for the feedback so far. What do people think of the value of the tailor considering the cost, and do you think I should try find a different one?

 

 

 

 

post #4755 of 5375
Quote:
Originally Posted by throw4five View Post
 

So i just received a SuitSupply Washington 40S in the mail today.  The sales rep at SS wanted to get me in a 38S but I felt like I was going to rip the jacket in half when I moved my arms.  I think the 40 fits me in the shoulders and chest, but is very big everywhere else.  Below are some pictures of me in the suit.  I would appreciate as much feedback as I can get regarding what needs tailored, and any other general information that you may deem relevant.  Feel free to be very critical if you want, I won't be offended.  I look forward to your replies; thanks!

 

 

To have this done right, you simply need to take it to a qualified tailor. The jacket and trousers need quite a bit of work to get them to a point where they'll fit. 

 

Also, only very carefully and superficially take advice from anyone in this thread who does not actually make garments or take them apart/put them back together because they don't know what they're talking about.

 

The folks you can listen to are: Despos, a tailor, jefferyd, Rory Duffy (these guys are all bespoke level tailors)

 

And me, I am not a bespoke tailor but I am a dedicated menswear only alterations tailor. Therefore, my skill is limited and you probably won't see me comment on something my skillset can't deal with.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions