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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 314

post #4696 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmathe02 View Post

If you shortened a jackets length can you move the pocket or the flap up so it does not look un-proportional .? Thank you.

 

If it's shortened from the shoulders, everything moves up.  If you shorten it from the bottom, you are basically talking about reconstructing the entire jacket.  I think it is possible, but would not be worth it.

post #4697 of 5281
Thank you despos and the groom for your replies.
post #4698 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmathe02 View Post

If you shortened a jackets length can you move the pocket or the flap up so it does not look un-proportional .? Thank you.

If it's shortened from the shoulders, everything moves up.  If you shorten it from the bottom, you are basically talking about reconstructing the entire jacket.  I think it is possible, but would not be worth it.

This is all wrong
post #4699 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

This is all wrong

 

I actually thought I was in the Ask/Answer thread, or would not have answered.  That is how my tailor explained it to me - basically take the jacket apart, cut it at the shoulders, and put it back together, and then adjust the other pieces to fit the new shape of the jacket.  His main point was, he could theoretically do it, but a new jacket would be vastly more sensible.

 

That isn't meant to contradict you; perhaps I misunderstood what he was telling me, or maybe it is something he would never do, but that was the explanation he used to dissuade me from attempting it with a different tailor.  I certainly am not recommending this to anyone.

post #4700 of 5281
When shortening a jacket at the bottom the most difficult and time consuming part is remaking the front edge into the curve and into the hem followed by remaking the vent or vents, The rest is a straight hem.

Shortening a jacket from the top involves removing the sleeves, opening the shoulders and removing the collar.

Shorten the jacket along the shoulder line then re shape the armhole,. Make the shoulder and replace the pad if there is one.

Either the collar is too long now and you need to lower the gorge by reshaping the lapels (which can't be done if the lapel buttonhole is cut thru) or shorten the collar. The breast pocket is positioned higher on the chest now.

Next is to fit the sleeves to the new armhole and maybe adjust the sleeve length.

This is recutting/remaking a jacket and is soooo much more work than shortening a jacket at the bottom along the hem. If you read your post you said the opposite.
post #4701 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

This is recutting/remaking a jacket and is soooo much more work than shortening a jacket at the bottom along the hem. If you read your post you said the opposite.

 

What I meant was that, if you shorten it from the bottom, to move everything up (pockets, etc.) in proportion, you would have to, then, disassemble most, or all, the jacket anyway, if it's possible at all.  It's the combination of both shortening from the bottom, and attempting to raise the jacket's features, that I meant to say would not be worth the effort.

 

I can see that my post did not really make that clear.

post #4702 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post
 

 

What I meant was that, if you shorten it from the bottom, to move everything up (pockets, etc.) in proportion, you would have to, then, disassemble most, or all, the jacket anyway, if it's possible at all.  It's the combination of both shortening from the bottom, and attempting to raise the jacket's features, that I meant to say would not be worth the effort.

 

I can see that my post did not really make that clear.


and the other bit that makes it unclear is that 'shortening from the top' involves doing pretty much all the same stuff anyway :) I can see what you meant, but I can also see why despos thought it was garbage.

post #4703 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamWill View Post
 


and the other bit that makes it unclear is that 'shortening from the top' involves doing pretty much all the same stuff anyway :) I can see what you meant, but I can also see why despos thought it was garbage.

 

Yes - fortunately Despos was here to give a correct response to the question.

post #4704 of 5281

Hi guys,

 

My first MTM suit from CYC Custom Shop in Singapore.

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

My apologies for the not-so-straight tie clip!

 

I've made a couple of shirts from CYC before and always enjoy the shirts that they make for me. This is my first suit form them, and I have to say that I think they are better at shirt making than suit making. Just a feeling I get.

post #4705 of 5281

tailors won't be able to judge the pants correctly with you in bare feet, you need to wear some (appropriate) shoes.

post #4706 of 5281

I bought a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald suit on ebay based on listed measurements. I know the trousers and jacket sleeves need to be shortened, but I am unsure about the rest of the fit. What do you all think? Also, excuse the oxford shirt and loafers, as I am traveling for work, and don't have anything else to wear with the suit right now. https://imgur.com/a/LCV8Z

Thanks!

post #4707 of 5281

Took a shot at my first MTM suit and feel that things look off. Im going to bring it back to the shop for alterations but was hoping to get some feedback as to what I should request. In my (unexperienced) opinion the button stance and arm holes are too high and the shoulders are too wide.  Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

post #4708 of 5281

Hi guys!

 

I have received my Suit Supply tuxedo(s) this afternoon (BTW excellent turnaround time, I ordered from Suit Supply on Wednesday April 2nd and received my order this afternoon - Friday April 4th) and would like your input. 

 

Now, keep in mind that I am not your average lean/fit #menswear enthusiast, therefore I am a little harder to fit, be it in office clothing or casual attire. For the record, I'm 6' and currently 245lbs and trying to lose some, with a 47" chest. I lost 23lbs since January 1st and plan on losing 10lbs more until my wedding which is planned on July 12th of this year. 

 

This is my first order with Suit Supply, so I used both their Size Advisor and Measurement page to guide my purchase. I order the tuxedo in 46R and 48R. 

 

This is the 48R:

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

Obviously, I would need to alter the trouser length, so please excuse the messy trouser cuff/bad drape. Please note that this is the only white shirt I had and not the tuxedo shirt I'll wear for the wedding, I haven't received it yet. Also note that this is the first time I'm wearing a self-tied bow tie (also from Suit Supply) so give me chance to improve!

 

What I think is good:

 

- Shoulder width seems fine, there is no (or minimal) shoulder divots, which I usually something I have problems with;

- Sleeve pitch seems adequate from the side;

- No collar/chest gap;

- Quarters are closed enough that it doesn't show some shirt below the button;

- Trousers feel great and sit at the correct height;

- Good range of motion without the feeling of pulling;

- Jacket is long enough (maybe 0,5" short but I can live with it).

 

What I'm not so sure about or I don't appreciate:

 

- There is some pulling between the shoulder blades and there's sometimes a crease going over the back of the lapel/collar (which I get with all of my jackets - posture related?);

- Back looks a little bit messy (might be less apparent if the vents were let open?);

- There are some crumpling on the sleeves in the front and upper back;

- Jacket looks boxy (but I think this is inevitable given my proportions);

- Trousers are a little bit tight below the seat which leads to some visual pulling (although I feel great in them);

 

Given that I should (there's always a possibility I won't, but chances are I will) be 10-15lbs lighter on my wedding day, the 48R should show less pulling in some places, notably under the seat (back thighs) and lower back/love handles region. I might even be able to have a tailor take the waist in a little bit, therefore diminishing the boxy appearance.

 

As opposed to the 46R:

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

Although I like the fact that is looks less boxy and the shoulders look great, it is noticeably too snug almost everywhere. I'm going to return this one. Please excuse the OCBD, I didn't think of putting on a proper shirt for the tryout. 

 

Please excuse my ugly mug and let me know what you think.

 

P.S.: I'm going to post a duplicate of this post in the Suit Supply thread to receive further comments and critics.

post #4709 of 5281

Very specific question for the experts here:

 

Jacket has too much skirt flare.

Red = problem area, gap between hip width and jacket hip.

Green = the contour I want to achieve.

It looks much more severe in person, because this picture is taken from top-down angle so it enhances chest width and gives the illusion that the hips aren't as wide as they are. In real life it looks like a tutu! :censored:

 

My question is: how do I fix this? Which seam should I (or my tailor, assuming I can find a competent one around here) take in? Pinning the center back seam didn't help, it maintained the hip flare shape. I think the jacket needs to be taken in from the side vent seams, kind of "rotating" the front quarters of the jacket. Any advice?

post #4710 of 5281
guys--

Can you give me your impressions on this one? the side vents and other basting stitching still in, but the store didn't want to touch anything but stitch the buttonholes on this one. I can't tell if the middle is X-ing at the button or not? they are happy to do more alterations if need be, but hard to trust the sales reps all the time.

thoughts on fit? thank you!
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