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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 307

post #4591 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post

It was a truthful comment about the forum. People just aren't learning much. Much copying of trends instead, in this case slim-fit. (Interesting as to why slim-fit is so desired. It's probably more than just conformity.)

Adding slightly to the pants width wouldn't make them wide-legged. Even if the legs were less bowed, the pictured cut wouldn't be flattering, bringing out hips that are relatively wide (should have said yesterday, add to the hips measurement). And pelvic tilt with a normal-sized behind also suggests against slim-fit. That probably is contributing to the rise issue, yes, but ultimately the whole seat is too small. (Sorry for the visual this produced) If the cheeks are clearly defined or there's a shelf from the side, the seat is too small. (Here's where an actual tailor could step in to estimate how much could be salvaged via alterations, though it almost definitely wouldn't be worthwhile.) The pants aren't horrible, but if this forum were functionally optimally (educating and guiding more), they would have turned out better. (The MIC site already had an article that would have warned against slim-fit in this case.) Anyway, rather than estimating new measurements for a remake, it might make sense to send the pictures to the maker, who if competent ought to be able to calculate adjustments based on that and the original measurements.

This is better, thanks, and I agree with most of what you said. When I say slim fit, I'm probably using the terminology in a misleading way, and has nothing to do with anything I learned on SF. As a matter of fact, if you look at the MC WAYWRN thread, there's nobody there wearing anything really slim. I think people on SF (especially the MC side) stopped advocating too-slim stuff a few years ago. What I meant to say is that I'm looking for something flattering without being too baggy, but it's pretty clear that I hold most of my weight in my butt/hip/thigh area. I'm 6'4" and weigh 195, so I'm not overweight or anything like that at all, but I am thicker in that specific area, so I'm always hesitant to just but bigger pants because I don't want it to throw off the rest of my physique. I think these should be let out in the seat a bit and add a little bit of fullness from the thigh to the knee. They're not that slim from the knee down as it is, and I could probably reduce the inseam a bit. I have an email in to the maker as well, so I'm waiting for a response from them. I agree they don't look awful, and again the robo-pose really exaggerates the fit issues, but I'd like to work on cleaning up the remaining issues I still have.
post #4592 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacGuffen View Post

Hi, guys. I wanted some feedback on these wool flannel MTM pants from Luxire. Ignore how I've buttoned it on the tightest button, it was just to get a tighter fit in the waist.

1. I feel the hips are too wide when viewed from the front, but I'm not sure if I should reduce half-hips front, half hips or both?

2. Do the back pockets pull out to the side too much? How would I fix that? I find the half-hips vs. half-hips front a little confusing.

3. I noticed the outseam (side-seam) does not fall straight. Is that a symptom of bad fit? If so, how do I fix it?

4. The creases under the buttocks, are they because of too much fabric or too little? In the thighs or hips? How do I remedy that?

Measurements: Waist 17.5. Half hips 21.5. Hip front 20.5. Pant length 41. Inseam 31.25. Front rise 10.5. Back rise 15.75. Thighs 12. Knee 8.75. Ankle 7.75.

Thanks!












Too much looking at butts lately.

As with the previous thread, too tight in the seat and probably needs a bit more fabric at the hips and wider legs, to provide visual balance. (The pants are emphasizing big hip bones.) It seems to need more fabric just below the behind, to avoid that big curve.
post #4593 of 5335

Hi All, I recently bought this Luxire shirt from someone I met. It fits me really and is one of the only nice shirts I own. I just wanted your opinions on improving it. As you can see there is a little extra fabric on the back and the chest seems to crease funnily by the arms. Thanks. 

 

 

P.S. the shoulders look funny, but they are a straight line when I stand normally. 

post #4594 of 5335

Hi!

 

I recently received this MTM suit from Black Lapel and just want your critique on it!

 

The following are what I've noticed but definitely want Styleforum's opinion:

 

--> Jacket length is short - I requested 27.5' but measured from bottom of jacket collar to hem and was approximately 25.5' - so definitely manufacturing problems. Is the way I used to measure the length correct?

--> stomach area (waist) is extremely tapered. Can see from side and back view. 

--> back of my pant's rise is grinding against my rear and sometimes if you concentrate on it, it makes a line going inwards against imitating my butt cheek line...

--> Pants pocket flare out. Is it because the hips too tight?

 

FYI, I'm around 5 foot 4 so on definitely on the shorter end & this suit is just out of the box so I haven't steamed it or whatsoever. 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

post #4595 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClaphamJ View Post

Hi All, I recently bought this Luxire shirt from someone I met. It fits me really and is one of the only nice shirts I own. I just wanted your opinions on improving it. As you can see there is a little extra fabric on the back and the chest seems to crease funnily by the arms. Thanks. 






P.S. the shoulders look funny, but they are a straight line when I stand normally. 

Let's ignore the shoulders and the odd way the sleeves end. Then the shirt looks fine, except for the collar, which shouldn't cover so much neck.
post #4596 of 5335

Is this shirt too big?  Or is the fit OK?

Created with GIMPCreated with GIMP

 

The pants are very loose in the waist, but fine with a belt.

 

Is this suit too big?

Created with GIMP

post #4597 of 5335

deleted..


Edited by mobilenemo - 3/21/14 at 9:18am
post #4598 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post


Let's ignore the shoulders and the odd way the sleeves end. Then the shirt looks fine, except for the collar, which shouldn't cover so much neck.

Thanks. That's actually just from the way I was holding the camera to keep my face out of the picture. I will probably specify a reduced collar height next time anyway. 

 

I'd still like to make sure the shoulders are perfect and there isn't that creasing around the chest before placing a big order. 

post #4599 of 5335

Hi guys,

 

In the Friday Challenge thread, someone pointed out that I may have a tailoring/fit probem with my jacket, because the quarters appear to be too closed. I wasn't aware of it before, but now I feel he may be right. Can you tailors see from this pic what may be the problem and how to remedy it?

 

 

Thanks in advance for your help. much appreciated!

post #4600 of 5335
If you have forward hips and bowed legs and flat seat and can't do and or afford bespoke, you need to find a very sure made to measure supplier, dealer, tailor, seller, whatever that knows what they're doing and can see your body well enough to ask for a proper adjustment. On the ground alterations (as opposed to before make pattern adj) to fix those issues are quite significant and if they are possible, also require the hand of a very skilled alterations tailor or a bespoke tailor.
Which if you would just find one in the first place, you might not have these problems.
Fixing those pants requires dropping the back waistband, hollowing the seat curve some, and possibly letting out the rear part of the fork all possible or about .5". That's for the unsightly bunching. And about the bunching and your posture and a worsted fabric that may not endure good ironwork...may not be entirely possible to totally eliminate all that bunching and also still allow you to walk comfortably. Something you just need to know about cloth.
Also, adjusting for bowed legs on a finished trouser is incredibly limited in scope. Do not get trousers made with a wider leg to "disguise" the bow. It will not work. Has everything to do with how the trouser is cut from the pattern stage from the knees down. Hard to explain without inducing unnecessary confusion.
Anyway, that's my piece on this post.
post #4601 of 5335
Despite the horrible picture position (I've addressed this too many times to be nice about it), looks like front balance is too short.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Hi guys,

In the Friday Challenge thread, someone pointed out that I may have a tailoring/fit probem with my jacket, because the quarters appear to be too closed. I wasn't aware of it before, but now I feel he may be right. Can you tailors see from this pic what may be the problem and how to remedy it?




Thanks in advance for your help. much appreciated!
post #4602 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Despite the horrible picture position (I've addressed this too many times to be nice about it), looks like front balance is too short.

 

Thanks for the feedback! No need to be nice, I prefer straightforward ;-)

I'll try to make better, frontal and side view pics. If it is indeed the front balance, is there anything that can be done to correct it?

post #4603 of 5335
FYI..

Tailors are busy peeps

Got questions you need answered by folks who uh kinda know what they're actually talking about? Like for real know?

PM us.

Sorry, but we can't prevent old anyone from posting old whatever they old want up in here.
post #4604 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

If you have forward hips and bowed legs and flat seat and can't do and or afford bespoke, you need to find a very sure made to measure supplier, dealer, tailor, seller, whatever that knows what they're doing and can see your body well enough to ask for a proper adjustment. On the ground alterations (as opposed to before make pattern adj) to fix those issues are quite significant and if they are possible, also require the hand of a very skilled alterations tailor or a bespoke tailor.
Which if you would just find one in the first place, you might not have these problems.
Fixing those pants requires dropping the back waistband, hollowing the seat curve some, and possibly letting out the rear part of the fork all possible or about .5". That's for the unsightly bunching. And about the bunching and your posture and a worsted fabric that may not endure good ironwork...may not be entirely possible to totally eliminate all that bunching and also still allow you to walk comfortably. Something you just need to know about cloth.
Also, adjusting for bowed legs on a finished trouser is incredibly limited in scope. Do not get trousers made with a wider leg to "disguise" the bow. It will not work. Has everything to do with how the trouser is cut from the pattern stage from the knees down. Hard to explain without inducing unnecessary confusion.
Anyway, that's my piece on this post.

I'm guessing this is a response to my post, so thanks for the insight here. Sounds like my issues are not easily fixed, but bespoke is probably out of my price range. I'll follow up with the MTM company to see how much I can get my pattern adjusted on future orders. And it's good to know that just getting a wider leg to disguise the issue won't help, I had gotten that recommendation in the past but didn't want to just start widening all my pants to try and compensate for bowed legs. Also interesting to hear that dropping the back waistband will help with the bunching under the seat, I would have thought the opposite. Shows how much I (don't) know!
post #4605 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClaphamJ View Post

Thanks. That's actually just from the way I was holding the camera to keep my face out of the picture. I will probably specify a reduced collar height next time anyway. 

I'd still like to make sure the shoulders are perfect and there isn't that creasing around the chest before placing a big order. 

You're right - the chest creasing shouldn't be there.
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