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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 306

post #4576 of 5328
I agree the coat looks pretty sweet for RTW. Wouldn't do a thing to it.

There is a saying in the trade "improve it to a failure".

A sleeve alteration is one of the most complex alteration you an request on a garment, if the tailor has trained in alterations rather than construction, usually the case, the chances are it will come out worse than it went in.

Fullness in the back waist is caused by excess back balance, like we see here, again leave it alone, it will come you your aid on those lazy days.
post #4577 of 5328

Hi, everyone. So I think I have a sloped shoulder, but I'm not sure. I get a divot in the right shoulder of my jacket in nearly every jacket I wear, some more than others. I'm also having difficulty getting jackets that fit me well in the hips area. I will post some of my jackets that I think fit me well and hopefully maybe get some help on what I should look for or how to correct the jacket shoulder divot.

 

If you think any of these jackets fit much better than any of the others than I will also try to look for more jackets in that same measurement/cut.

 

 Thank you everyone.

 

Odd Navy Jacket (Click to show)

 

 

Light Brown Jacket (Click to show)

Photo 170 of 207 Photo 171 of 207 Photo 172 of 207

Check Jacket (Click to show)

Photo 176 of 207Photo 177 of 207 Photo 178 of 207

Navy Suit (Click to show)

Photo 193 of 207 Photo 194 of 207 Photo 195 of 207

Tweed Check (Click to show)

Photo 3 of 5 Photo 113 of 131 

post #4578 of 5328
2-5 fit fine. Only a bit of divoting is noticeable.

1 is too big in the shoulders.
post #4579 of 5328
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Hi, everyone. So I think I have a sloped shoulder, but I'm not sure. I get a divot in the right shoulder of my jacket in nearly every jacket I wear, some more than others. I'm also having difficulty getting jackets that fit me well in the hips area. I will post some of my jackets that I think fit me well and hopefully maybe get some help on what I should look for or how to correct the jacket shoulder divot.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
If you think any of these jackets fit much better than any of the others than I will also try to look for more jackets in that same measurement/cut.

 Thank you everyone.
Odd Navy Jacket (Click to show)
 




Light Brown Jacket (Click to show)
Photo 170 of 207
 Photo 171 of 207
Photo 172 of 207
Check Jacket (Click to show)
Photo 176 of 207
Photo 177 of 207
 Photo 178 of 207
Navy Suit (Click to show)
Photo 193 of 207
 Photo 194 of 207
Photo 195 of 207
Tweed Check (Click to show)
Photo 3 of 5
 Photo 113 of 131
 

The last jacket (tweed check) is too short IMHO. The suit (#4) trousers are also hemmed too short or too wide. If you want them that short, the leg opening needs to be more narrow. Also, the back photos are prime examples for why single vented jackets are my least favourite kind of jacket (compared to double or no-vented jackets).
post #4580 of 5328
Looking for some feedback on the fit of these pants. I have a pelvic tilt and bow legs, so I'm just looking to see what I can do to help the legs fall more cleanly and to reduce the bunching under the seat. Other than that, I'm overall happy with the fit and current measurements. I will probably reduce the inseam just a tad as well.



post #4581 of 5328

I thought I was done with the Sid Mashburn suit after FOUR rounds of tailoring, but I think I need to go back yet again. This last round, the master tailor rotated the sleeves forward (I think that's what he said he was doing) to get rid of the bunching in the sleeves, but it's still there (it was much worse last time). Is this something I just need to live with, or can it be fixed? 

 

Other than that, I'm happy with the suit. Not happy with the process, though.

 

post #4582 of 5328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse View Post

Looking for some feedback on the fit of these pants. I have a pelvic tilt and bow legs, so I'm just looking to see what I can do to help the legs fall more cleanly and to reduce the bunching under the seat. Other than that, I'm overall happy with the fit and current measurements. I will probably reduce the inseam just a tad as well.




An unfortunate example of things Style Forum should teach but doesn't.

The pants need to be slightly wider to disguise the bow legs (probably would need a remake), and the seat is too tight.
post #4583 of 5328

 

 

I know the shoulders on this are quite large but are they just too big for me to make this work?

post #4584 of 5328
Quote:
Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post


An unfortunate example of things Style Forum should teach but doesn't.

The pants need to be slightly wider to disguise the bow legs (probably would need a remake), and the seat is too tight.

 

 

Have the same issue with most trews, BG. Looking at the profile, the belt is pretty much level. I bet if you bent forward by 10-15 degrees the bunching would disappear. 

 

at MIC

Interesting. How about seat rise versus front rise ratio? Example, I have a Borrelli that when folded looks ridiculously hacked, front rise much shorter than seat, and legs are slim. Shows the same result, only worse. Taught me to look out for this when buying online but still not always successfully. 

 

So legs aside, and avoiding pulling up seat until asseatstrews, how would one best fix this seat rumbling symptom? 

PS: And not ending up with trews with very wide legs either. Reminds me, had some I wanted tapered but might not go through with that based on this. 

post #4585 of 5328
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post


Have the same issue with most trews, BG. Looking at the profile, the belt is pretty much level. I bet if you bent forward by 10-15 degrees the bunching would disappear. 

at MIC
Interesting. How about seat rise versus front rise ratio? Example, I have a Borrelli that when folded looks ridiculously hacked, front rise much shorter than seat, and legs are slim. Shows the same result, only worse. Taught me to look out for this when buying online but still not always successfully. 

So legs aside, and avoiding pulling up seat until asseatstrews, how would one best fix this seat rumbling symptom? 
PS: And not ending up with trews with very wide legs either. Reminds me, had some I wanted tapered but might not go through with that based on this. 

Yeah, if I bend forward or stick my leg out so that my foot is forward of my hips, all the bunching under the seat disappears. Also, the bow legs look much worse in this robo-pose, so I stood like this to accentuate the issue. If I'm walking or standing in any other pose, the bow legs aren't noticeable at all. I think you are on to something with the front rise/back rise ratio. I'd be interested to see what an actual tailor has to say, if any of them still frequent this thread. I'd still like a relatively slim, but not skinny leg. I don't want to just add to the measurements which will make me end up with a wide-leg pant. No offense to MIC, but when you start off your post with a douchey comment about SF and then proceed to not give any actual advice (saying the pants need to be recut doesn't really help, although I probably could use a little more room around the knee), then I can't take your comments too seriously.
post #4586 of 5328

Wondering if a tailor can fix these sleeves by adding a fifth button and an inch or so of length. This shirt's sleeves are a bit too long, making the suit's appear even shorter. I really like how the suit feels otherwise. It seems to accommodate my sloping right shoulder more naturally than most others I've tried.

 

 

post #4587 of 5328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feynman View Post
 

Wondering if a tailor can fix these sleeves by adding a fifth button and an inch or so of length. This shirt's sleeves are a bit too long, making the suit's appear even shorter. I really like how the suit feels otherwise. It seems to accommodate my sloping right shoulder more naturally than most others I've tried.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

I agree this looks exceptionally good for OTR, particularly accounting for your right sloped shoulder.  Ask the tailor if there is enough material in the sleeve to let out and possibly move the buttons.

post #4588 of 5328

Hi guys! I'm fairly new to the forums, but I have been lurking for a while. I started a thread asking for suggestions about getting a suit a while back, and decided to order two of the same suit, in different sizes. They arrived yesterday and are very nice! Once I decide which suit to keep, the other one will be getting sent back.

 

I'm 18 and in my senior year of high school so I don't have a lot of money to spend on a suit, so I decided to go with eHaberdasher. I ordered Benjamin Sartorial Classico II suit in navy, in both sizes 38L and 39/40L. Both fit in the shoulders, but the 39/40L is obviously a bit baggier. I have a local tailor who will be doing the work on whichever suit I decide to go with.

 

Before I post the pictures, just a last few things. Ignore the shoes -- I have a pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenues in black coming. Also, I will getting a nice white dress shirt and having it tailored to fit me before having the suit tailored. My current shirts have sleeves that are a little bit too short. The pants are not hemmed, so I just have them rolled up to an approximate length. Finally, ignore all the tags. I've left them on until I know for sure which suit will be kept and which will be returned.

 

So first, the 38L. It fits good in my opinion. The shoulders are good. I didn't notice the gap between my shirt collar before taking the pictures, but I guess its there. Also, the pants are a little bit tight around the upper thigh/butt area and the openings of the pocket open up a little bit when they're on. That's all I can really think of off the top of my head.

 

Benjamin Sartorial 38L (Click to show)

 

Next, the 39/40L. This one also fits well in the shoulders, it is just a bit baggier throughout the rest of the coat. You can ignore the brown belt, it's the only one I had on hand. The pants are too big in the waist, and I couldn't keep them up all the way. The tailor should be able to remedy that, I assume? I might want them slimmed down a little bit overall, but I'm open to opinions.

 

Benjamin Sartorial 39/40L (Click to show)

 

If you need any more pictures in order to give tailoring recommendations I will be happy to take them. As I said, I'm open to thoughts and opinions about what should be done to get the suit looking as good as possible. I guess I would prefer a bit slimmer of a fit overall, since I am a slimmer guy, but I'll hear what the professionals have to say first.

 

Thank you all!

post #4589 of 5328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse View Post

Yeah, if I bend forward or stick my leg out so that my foot is forward of my hips, all the bunching under the seat disappears. Also, the bow legs look much worse in this robo-pose, so I stood like this to accentuate the issue. If I'm walking or standing in any other pose, the bow legs aren't noticeable at all. I think you are on to something with the front rise/back rise ratio. I'd be interested to see what an actual tailor has to say, if any of them still frequent this thread. I'd still like a relatively slim, but not skinny leg. I don't want to just add to the measurements which will make me end up with a wide-leg pant. No offense to MIC, but when you start off your post with a douchey comment about SF and then proceed to not give any actual advice (saying the pants need to be recut doesn't really help, although I probably could use a little more room around the knee), then I can't take your comments too seriously.

It was a truthful comment about the forum. People just aren't learning much. Much copying of trends instead, in this case slim-fit. (Interesting as to why slim-fit is so desired. It's probably more than just conformity.)

Adding slightly to the pants width wouldn't make them wide-legged. Even if the legs were less bowed, the pictured cut wouldn't be flattering, bringing out hips that are relatively wide (should have said yesterday, add to the hips measurement). And pelvic tilt with a normal-sized behind also suggests against slim-fit. That probably is contributing to the rise issue, yes, but ultimately the whole seat is too small. (Sorry for the visual this produced) If the cheeks are clearly defined or there's a shelf from the side, the seat is too small. (Here's where an actual tailor could step in to estimate how much could be salvaged via alterations, though it almost definitely wouldn't be worthwhile.) The pants aren't horrible, but if this forum were functionally optimally (educating and guiding more), they would have turned out better. (The MIC site already had an article that would have warned against slim-fit in this case.) Anyway, rather than estimating new measurements for a remake, it might make sense to send the pictures to the maker, who if competent ought to be able to calculate adjustments based on that and the original measurements.
Edited by mensimageconsultant - 3/9/14 at 3:55pm
post #4590 of 5328

Hi, guys. I wanted some feedback on these wool flannel MTM pants from Luxire. Ignore how I've buttoned it on the tightest button, it was just to get a tighter fit in the waist.

 

1. I feel the hips are too wide when viewed from the front, but I'm not sure if I should reduce half-hips front, half hips or both?

 

2. Do the back pockets pull out to the side too much? How would I fix that? I find the half-hips vs. half-hips front a little confusing.

 

3. I noticed the outseam (side-seam) does not fall straight. Is that a symptom of bad fit? If so, how do I fix it?

 

4. The creases under the buttocks, are they because of too much fabric or too little? In the thighs or hips? How do I remedy that?

 

Measurements: Waist 17.5. Half hips 21.5. Hip front 20.5. Pant length 41. Inseam 31.25. Front rise 10.5. Back rise 15.75. Thighs 12. Knee 8.75. Ankle 7.75.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

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