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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 303

post #4531 of 5141
By flapping, do you mean that the centre crease is tending to fall towards the inside leg, off centre or there is too much break over the shoe?
post #4532 of 5141
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terpo View Post
 

 

Any comments on the fit of this jacket? I hope the quality of pics is good enough.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


The collar is the issue here, specificaly the left side pulling away at the neck. Sloping the shoulders more is not the correct thing to do. I can't discern much from these pictures. I am suspect that your left shoulder blade is more prominent than the right, A picture of your shoulders with the jacket off and a shot of the jacket, front and back with the jacket unbuttoned would be useful.

They may have to cut the shoulders differently and adjust the front back balance.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory Duffy View Post

I

I believe the issue may be that the shoulder angle is cut for the low side (right) and that the left shoulder is 1/2" squarer lifting the coat at the shoulder point and pulling it away. The right side is probably your strong side and the chest more developed, the left side is less so and needs to be crookend on.
In short release the shoulder 1/2" on the left squaring it and crooken 1/2".
Don't believe prominent blades would cause such a severe issue but then I always stretch for blades.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Terpo, it occurred to me you may be interpreting shoulder slope differently than it is intended.

Sloping the shoulder line is lowing the line at the shoulder point where the sleeve joins, making a greater degree of slope. Lowering the shoulder line at the neck is squaring the shoulder. The degree of slope is diminished making the shoulder line more horizontal.

There are other times when it is better to raise the point at the neck to create slope or raise the shoulder point to square the shoulder but don't want to complicate the example.

Your left shoulder is too sloped and needs to be squared at the neck by lowering the shoulder line at the neck. Think of the shoulder line as a plane and the center point, from neck to shoulder tip, as the fulcrum. it is too low at the shoulder point and makes the collar stand up at the neck. This adjustment may be enough to correct the collar standing away but your left shoulder blade may be contributing some.

 

 

Thanks for the feedback, Despos and Rory Duffy.

 

I am not entirely sure what was done with the shoulders, all I remember is the gent taking my MTM measurements mentioned my sloping shoulders and then pinned the neck to do so. I believe the point at the neck was raised. The term I used to describe this was probably inaccurate. Thanks for clarifying! :)

 

I also took some more pictures with the jacket unbuttoned and without the jacket:

post #4533 of 5141

Terpo:

 

If it ends up being a big problem, ask them to remake it. They remade mine due to a problem in their computer automated measurement when the arm hole of the jacket was raised, the sleeve was not automatically adjusted and ended up too short (although, given how they advertise their sleeves, within Suit Supply norms!). They were, I thought, quite nice about it and they learn something on their end too which helps them.

 

Once you figure it out here, you might be able to fix it with them (or you might realize that MTM at least with SS is not going to be able to deal with your issues, could happen). You're in good hands here.

post #4534 of 5141
Terpo, you do not have sloping shoulders. The left shoulder is sloped too much. I imagine you feel pressure on your shoulder point from the jacket. You can see how the jacket falls away on the left side more than the right. The left jacket edge is farther away from your shirt placket. The shoulders are a little funny, you need the collar to sit higher in back.
You may have a bit of a balance issue. Need longer front/shorter back.
post #4535 of 5141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory Duffy View Post

By flapping, do you mean that the centre crease is tending to fall towards the inside leg, off centre or there is too much break over the shoe?

Sorry I wasn't specific. By flapping, I mean when I'm sitting down and how the fabric tends to sway around way too much/too easily side to side. When I'm standing up, I'm just wondering if too much of the shoe is being covered or if it's fine. Basically wanting to strike the ideal balance.

post #4536 of 5141
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoon24 View Post

I've been contemplating tapering at the end of my trousers (ankle) to make it look a bit narrower. According to SuitSupply's sizing chart, the "foot width" is 8.2 inches. The shoes I'm wearing are the shoes I normally wear these trousers with. I feel like there is too much "flapping" going on, but thoughts would be appreciated.


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Looks all right to me. I would get used to the flapping. You may be used to wearing jeans. If you taper, the flap will diminish but the trouser opening against your shoe won't look as good, This is purely opinion.
post #4537 of 5141

You're right on the fact that I am not used to wearing suits on a frequent basis. I do have to ask. For future reference, if I'm going for a look that shows a bit of sock at all times, then would it be advisable to taper the ankle?


Edit: Something like this...

 

post #4538 of 5141
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Terpo:

 

If it ends up being a big problem, ask them to remake it. They remade mine due to a problem in their computer automated measurement when the arm hole of the jacket was raised, the sleeve was not automatically adjusted and ended up too short (although, given how they advertise their sleeves, within Suit Supply norms!). They were, I thought, quite nice about it and they learn something on their end too which helps them.

 

Once you figure it out here, you might be able to fix it with them (or you might realize that MTM at least with SS is not going to be able to deal with your issues, could happen). You're in good hands here.

 

SS said they would do any adjustments required after delivery in store if necessary. Since it's a day trip for me to the nearest SS store, I wanted to get a good idea of what needs to be done (and knowing it can be done) before the journey.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Terpo, you do not have sloping shoulders. The left shoulder is sloped too much. I imagine you feel pressure on your shoulder point from the jacket. You can see how the jacket falls away on the left side more than the right. The left jacket edge is farther away from your shirt placket. The shoulders are a little funny, you need the collar to sit higher in back.
You may have a bit of a balance issue. Need longer front/shorter back.

 

Thanks for the clarification. Seems I had a wrong picture in my head as to what sloping shoulders are.

 

Regarding the balance, the SS gent said my posture was leaning slightly backwards and entered that into the system for adjusting. Therefore I'm surprised the front is still too short and back too long.

 

In terms of the left and right shoulder inequality, SS only adjusted by shortening the left sleeve slightly, as the left sleeve always hangs lower than the right sleeve.

 

So in short, I need to have the left shoulder squared by releasing the shoulder and reattaching it at a slightly more flat angle. This should make the collar fit more snugly and make the collar sit higher at the same time.

 

Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain this process in detail. I am so glad to have the opportunity to seek your advice, without which I would be utterly clueless as to what to do.

post #4539 of 5141
It's sort of a big deal alteration. If they square up the front shoulder the gorge is higher and won't match the other side. they will have to lower the gorge. The collar in back is related and not related to the shoulder issue.

I could tell you were picturing something different than the normal interpretation of sloping and squaring and that's why I offered the explanation.

The issue Tweedy had is fixed by common sense, If you raise the armhole the length of the sleeve has to change because the distance from your wrist to the bottom of the armhole is longer than before, duh!
post #4540 of 5141
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoon24 View Post

You're right on the fact that I am not used to wearing suits on a frequent basis. I do have to ask. For future reference, if I'm going for a look that shows a bit of sock at all times, then would it be advisable to taper the ankle?


Edit: Something like this...



Yes, taper the bottom
post #4541 of 5141

are these the dockers, alpha khakis? or whatever theyre called?

post #4542 of 5141
Quote:
Originally Posted by dohare View Post
 

are these the dockers, alpha khakis? or whatever theyre called?


Yep, that's the Dockers D1.

post #4543 of 5141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The issue Tweedy had is fixed by common sense, If you raise the armhole the length of the sleeve has to change because the distance from your wrist to the bottom of the armhole is longer than before, duh!

Right!

 

I, the non tailor, figured this out myself and mentioned it to them. They then went into their automated system to see if the computer adjusted for this, when arm hole is raised. Apparently, it does not!

 

I hope they've fixed it, but as you (Despos) advised me earlier in this thread, probably not the sort of change to do in MTO. I dropped the arm hole back and it reduced the pressure of the arm hole against my front shoulder in the first jacket (I was surprised that this would work, given Alex "a Tailor's" tutorial on this in the tailor's thread).

post #4544 of 5141

Hi everyone,

 

I was wondering if there is any standard relationship between jacket size across the back and shirt size across the back. For example, if I wear a jacket that measures 18 inch across the back, would the shirt measurement be the same? Or should it be a little roomier? Am I correct in assuming that these back measurements for a shirt and jacket are made in the same position?

 

Thanks a lot for your help!

post #4545 of 5141
There is a difference in execution and therefore results when working with a MTM factory and a tailor.
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