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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 293

post #4381 of 5298

I am in the first two pics though.

 

I've seen quite a few people posting pics of trousers while bending forward slightly. Reading your post, though, I guess this is not very useful.

post #4382 of 5298

Not a tailor, but I'm surprised the store would be satisfied with that fit.  The jacket seems very tight.  That's why there's an X pattern around the top button when it's fastened.  You can also tell the jacket's waist is tight from the radiating creases in the back above the side vents.  The vents should fall perpendicular to the floor but here they're curving outwards.  When the jacket is unbuttoned, the two sides should just touch, or overlap slightly.  As it's been altered, the jacket is tight enough to open about three inches.  You're right that the roll under the collar needs to be fixed.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATLjon View Post
 

Hi all,

 

I'm getting a suit from Sid Mashburn and have been through the initial tailoring and a second round. I just got the suit back, and stupidly thinking all would be well, I simply picked it up. I'll be going back a third time. I had originally gone in with the thought of having an MTM garment, but I was talked out of this because my body type doesn't require any crazy alterations and going the off-the-rack and tailor approach would be faster.

 

I'm having a hard time articulating what I want done to this suit. I think the top is too boxy, and even after alterations to supposedly address this, there still seems to be a roll under the collar. The pants, which have been slimmed, tapered and let out a bit, still seem not as streamlined as I would want them, and there looks to be some extra fabric around the thighs. Also, the back of the pants is doing something strange around the knee that was supposed to have been addressed.

 

What else? I, of course, want this to be perfect.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #4383 of 5298

Question regarding a cotton/wool blend blazer. 32% wool, 68% cotton.

It is a bit tight on the upper back and on the waist. (The back could be because of the low armholes, though).

I want to let out some of the seams. There is a ton of extra fabric.

But, one tailor I brought it to told me that if I let anything out they thought it would show permanent marks where the old seam was.

Is there any way to let this out without showing any marks? It is 32% wool after all.

I wanted to let it out only 1/2" either on the centre back or a combination of the sides and back. (double vented jacket)

post #4384 of 5298

Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald fit solid navy two-button suit. Have spent $150 to get it altered by a local tailor (taper the pants, remove the collar roll, take the sides in, and shorten the sleeves).

 

Still not sure if the suit fits correctly on me. Not very satisfied with the ripples on the pants but the tailor said that was the best she could do, which I doubt. 

 

Any comments or suggestions for further alterations will be highly appreciated.

 

post #4385 of 5298

Sleeve pitch problem.

post #4386 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonSox View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLjon View Post

 
Hi all,

I'm getting a suit from Sid Mashburn and have been through the initial tailoring and a second round. I just got the suit back, and stupidly thinking all would be well, I simply picked it up. I'll be going back a third time. I had originally gone in with the thought of having an MTM garment, but I was talked out of this because my body type doesn't require any crazy alterations and going the off-the-rack and tailor approach would be faster.

I'm having a hard time articulating what I want done to this suit. I think the top is too boxy, and even after alterations to supposedly address this, there still seems to be a roll under the collar. The pants, which have been slimmed, tapered and let out a bit, still seem not as streamlined as I would want them, and there looks to be some extra fabric around the thighs. Also, the back of the pants is doing something strange around the knee that was supposed to have been addressed.

What else? I, of course, want this to be perfect.

Thanks.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

















You had much of the suit adjusted for a person who doesn't need much alteration! According to the salesman, right?

RTW will not be perfect unless your body, posture and proportion, is perfect. The trouser needs the waistband removed and reattached working in fullness over your hips and lowering and straightening the back part. A very intensive task on a finished trouser that will throw off the rear pocket position.

You have a very low right shoulder, that's why the right front hangs lower than the left in the picture with the front unbuttoned. Back blades are a little sloppy.
post #4387 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matvei27 View Post

Question regarding a cotton/wool blend blazer. 32% wool, 68% cotton.
It is a bit tight on the upper back and on the waist. (The back could be because of the low armholes, though).
I want to let out some of the seams. There is a ton of extra fabric.
But, one tailor I brought it to told me that if I let anything out they thought it would show permanent marks where the old seam was.
Is there any way to let this out without showing any marks? It is 32% wool after all.
I wanted to let it out only 1/2" either on the centre back or a combination of the sides and back. (double vented jacket)

The old stitch marks may show when letting out the seams due to the cotton content. You could open a seam and test to see the result and decide if you can live with it. The best way to deal with the old stitch marks is to open the seam, apply water to the marks. scratch the stitch marks with your finger nail and press from the inside (wrongside of the cloth), not on the face of the cloth. Do not let out the center back, release the underarm on the side body.
post #4388 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Membking View Post

Sleeve pitch problem.

Not really, reduce and reshape the sleeve cap and the back of sleeve will hang clean. No rotation necessary.
post #4389 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


Not really, reduce and reshape the sleeve cap and the back of sleeve will hang clean. No rotation necessary.

 

Thanks.

 

The tailor told me that taking-in the seam at the arm hole may solve the problem. I am not sure if it was the same alteration you suggested. 

post #4390 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Membking View Post

Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald fit solid navy two-button suit. Have spent $150 to get it altered by a local tailor (taper the pants, remove the collar roll, take the sides in, and shorten the sleeves).

Still not sure if the suit fits correctly on me. Not very satisfied with the ripples on the pants but the tailor said that was the best she could do, which I doubt. 

Any comments or suggestions for further alterations will be highly appreciated.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The roll is from your square shoulders and not erect posture. If the shoulders, front and back, had been squared rather than squaring up the back shoulder only you would have benefited more. It would have helped clean up the slight bowing of the lapels over your chest and not changed the balance. At present the jacket looks like it has a short back/long front and lowering the back at the neck/collar many have contributed. Just a guess. It looks like she tapered the leg on only one seam, I think the inseam and not reduced the leg on both the inseam and outseam. When the leg clings and shows the shape/curve in your stance, it is too tapered IMO. Looks like you have a right high hip the way the trouser leg hangs. Cleaning up the diagonal line under the seat is about changing the front/back balance by lowering the back part at the top of the waist. Not always possible on a finished trouser.
post #4391 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Membking View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Not really, reduce and reshape the sleeve cap and the back of sleeve will hang clean. No rotation necessary.

Thanks.

The tailor told me that taking-in the seam at the arm hole may solve the problem. I am not sure if it was the same alteration you suggested. 

Nope
post #4392 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


The old stitch marks may show when letting out the seams due to the cotton content. You could open a seam and test to see the result and decide if you can live with it. The best way to deal with the old stitch marks is to open the seam, apply water to the marks. scratch the stitch marks with your finger nail and press from the inside (ringside of the cloth), not on the face of the cloth. Do not let out the center back, release the underarm on the side body.

So should I let out 1/4" on each side then to get a total of 1/2"? 

This tailor had originally recommended letting out the CB before they realized it was partially cotton.

Was this bad advice? Should I be taking this to someone else?

 

Will releasing the underarm fix the tight upper back though?

post #4393 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terpo View Post

I'd appreciate any comments on the fit of these odd trousers. Once I get the fit right I want to use the same measurements for suit trousers. Cheers!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






The rise looks too high/long. You have a high right hip that causes pulling on the right out seam. Would let out the crotch 1/2" to 3/4". The way the trouser legs drape is sloppy.
post #4394 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


You had much of the suit adjusted for a person who doesn't need much alteration! According to the salesman, right?

RTW will not be perfect unless your body, posture and proportion, is perfect. The trouser needs the waistband removed and reattached working in fullness over your hips and lowering and straightening the back part. A very intensive task on a finished trouser that will throw off the rear pocket position.

You have a very low right shoulder, that's why the right front hangs lower than the left in the picture with the front unbuttoned. Back blades are a little sloppy.

 

I just went in for round 3 on Saturday. I'll post pictures of the result. Work to be done includes:

 

Raising the waistband, additional leg tapering, shortening the length a tiny bit, reshaping the shoulders, fixing the roll on the back by doing some collar work, doing something to the shoulder to smooth it out, and slimming the sleeves.

 

If it doesn't look perfect this time, I may have to raise hell.

post #4395 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matvei27 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The old stitch marks may show when letting out the seams due to the cotton content. You could open a seam and test to see the result and decide if you can live with it. The best way to deal with the old stitch marks is to open the seam, apply water to the marks. scratch the stitch marks with your finger nail and press from the inside (ringside of the cloth), not on the face of the cloth. Do not let out the center back, release the underarm on the side body.
So should I let out 1/4" on each side then to get a total of 1/2"? 
This tailor had originally recommended letting out the CB before they realized it was partially cotton.
Was this bad advice? Should I be taking this to someone else?

Will releasing the underarm fix the tight upper back though?

Probably but you haven't posted a picture and my response is a general one rather than a specific. Generally letting out the center back only results in creating a mess. Letting out both sides at the side body makes the armhole wider and releases the back enough to create more motion.
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