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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 291

post #4351 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post
 

Pull out a tape measure and look at 1/4 inch. This is the difference at each shoulder.  If the length is good, you should have no problem.  If you are a hipster and wear things really snug, you might worry. :)


Right, thanks!  Maybe I am concerned I am actually a 19" or that I do have a bit of hipster in me still.  I guess it is impossible to answer without trying it.  I just hate to buy and return.  I it hard for me to imagine how it will look.

post #4352 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by sean anon View Post
 

I am looking at a Sportcoat to thrift that is listed a 20" across the shoulders.  It is a lightly padded Samuelsohn.


I measure 19.5" by a tailor and in trendier cuts I have SCs which measure 19" across the shoulders


Will this be a problem for the fit?

 Depending on where you're buying it, that measurement is speculative. Is it an MTM from a previous client? Is it RTW?

If you actually measure 19.5 by a tailor, your chest is probably between 43 and 45 (a guess). A 20" p2p is usually seen on a 44 off the rack. Sometimes 44's have 19.5" shoulders but usually 20 to 20.5 even in the case of a canali or similar cut. If it was mtm and the p2p is 20", you need to ask some questions to see what the chest was, as well.

post #4353 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

 Depending on where you're buying it, that measurement is speculative. Is it an MTM from a previous client? Is it RTW?

If you actually measure 19.5 by a tailor, your chest is probably between 43 and 45 (a guess). A 20" p2p is usually seen on a 44 off the rack. Sometimes 44's have 19.5" shoulders but usually 20 to 20.5 even in the case of a canali or similar cut. If it was mtm and the p2p is 20", you need to ask some questions to see what the chest was, as well.


Thanks for the reply

 

I assume it was not MTM but I don't know.  I am thrifting it off EBAY for cheap

 

The seller has it listed as Chest 44", sleeves 25", Shoulder 20" and Length 32" from bottom of collar

 

I have been measured at 42" Chest, 25" sleeves, 19.5 shoulders and other jackets I have are between 30" and 32" (this is more on the suit side for me).  I am 6'1 and 190 pounds

 

Some of my trendier sportcoats seem to be more like 19" and shorter but I want something basic for (rare for me) conservative occasions.  

 

I am a bit worried about the shoulders having me swimming and less so that it is a bit long.  Also wonder if this will have low and large armholes.  I do like the very classic and not out-of-date lapel look and the potential to change the buttons to horn and have it tailored a bit


Listed as Super 110's wool Samuelsohn.  Thoughts? 

 

 

 

 

post #4354 of 5281
Would just about guarantee it has a large and low armhole. Based on description, it sounds like a 44L with shortened sleeves. No matter what you're looking for, this jacket is meant to come off as classic and probably wouldn't work well trying to make it "trendy" as far as fit is concerned. Also, the true chest measure is likely not a 44 but more like 46-48. If it's a 44 jacket, the over chest measure is greater. If it is smaller than a 44, the point to point is probably less than listed. If you don't measure it right you get different numbers. It had to be measured up and over the neck seam to Seam. Straight across is in accurate. Does it have a size tag?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sean anon View Post


Thanks for the reply







I assume it was not MTM but I don't know.  I am thrifting it off EBAY for cheap

The seller has it listed as Chest 44", sleeves 25", Shoulder 20" and Length 32" from bottom of collar

I have been measured at 42" Chest, 25" sleeves, 19.5 shoulders and other jackets I have are between 30" and 32" (this is more on the suit side for me).  I am 6'1 and 190 pounds

Some of my trendier sportcoats seem to be more like 19" and shorter but I want something basic for (rare for me) conservative occasions.  

I am a bit worried about the shoulders having me swimming and less so that it is a bit long.  Also wonder if this will have low and large armholes.  I do like the very classic and not out-of-date lapel look and the potential to change the buttons to horn and have it tailored a bit


Listed as Super 110's wool Samuelsohn.  Thoughts? 







post #4355 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Would just about guarantee it has a large and low armhole. Based on description, it sounds like a 44L with shortened sleeves. No matter what you're looking for, this jacket is meant to come off as classic and probably wouldn't work well trying to make it "trendy" as far as fit is concerned. Also, the true chest measure is likely not a 44 but more like 46-48. If it's a 44 jacket, the over chest measure is greater. If it is smaller than a 44, the point to point is probably less than listed. If you don't measure it right you get different numbers. It had to be measured up and over the neck seam to Seam. Straight across is in accurate. Does it have a size tag?


Oddly it is tagged 40 L. This is in a photo.

The measurments don't seem to make sense. Assuming they are correct I am still wondering if this will fit me well with the construction. I am not looking for trendy and want something conservative but also workout and don't want to look bad.

It is only $40 but I'd rather not waste my time
post #4356 of 5281
Tailors - help! I effed up! Not quite an alteration question, more like a repair. I posted this in the quick question thread and only got one responder, so I'd like a few more opinions.

So because I was in a rush, I used scissors to open a package. You all can see where this is going...



The slice measures exactly 1/8" long, on the back of the collar right near the top where the collar folds over. The hole is through-and-through so I can't just flip the collar (as someone else suggested since this is an OCBD). I don't care about the bottom hole as that will always be covered, I'll just stitch it up so it doesn't fray, but I'm concerned about the top one that will be visible. Is a reweave necessary, or is this small enough that can be discreetly stitched up?

I don't care about it being completely invisible, because if someone is staring at your neck close enough to notice a 1/8" slice, that's kind of weird. But, I'd like it to not be noticeable from a reasonable distance.
post #4357 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by sean anon View Post


Oddly it is tagged 40 L. This is in a photo.

The measurments don't seem to make sense. Assuming they are correct I am still wondering if this will fit me well with the construction. I am not looking for trendy and want something conservative but also workout and don't want to look bad.

It is only $40 but I'd rather not waste my time

A 40 L would have about a 44" chest. The measurement for the p2p is probably not taken correctly. The off the rack standard range for most brands in a 40L 'classic fit' is going to be 18.75" and 19.25"

post #4358 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJhambone09 View Post

Tailors - help! I effed up! Not quite an alteration question, more like a repair. I posted this in the quick question thread and only got one responder, so I'd like a few more opinions.

So because I was in a rush, I used scissors to open a package. You all can see where this is going...



The slice measures exactly 1/8" long, on the back of the collar right near the top where the collar folds over. The hole is through-and-through so I can't just flip the collar (as someone else suggested since this is an OCBD). I don't care about the bottom hole as that will always be covered, I'll just stitch it up so it doesn't fray, but I'm concerned about the top one that will be visible. Is a reweave necessary, or is this small enough that can be discreetly stitched up?

I don't care about it being completely invisible, because if someone is staring at your neck close enough to notice a 1/8" slice, that's kind of weird. But, I'd like it to not be noticeable from a reasonable distance.

Reweaving will cost more than the shirt. You could either try to have machine darned but that may make it more obvious than it already is.

The other option is to use something like fray check to coat the hole so that it doesn't fray anymore. Trim away any tiny fuzzies and apply the fray check to the edge of the hole. You could even go just a bit farther by attaching a piece of shirting fabric on the underside of the collar where the hole is using some fusible fabric fusion type glue. The whole idea is to use something that will completely prevent further fraying. Then, thru the normal washing lifespan, the cotton will shrink and be pressed often enough to generally make the hole unnoticeable.

 

My other piece of advise is to not watch Edward Scissorhands before opening your new shirts...

post #4359 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Reweaving will cost more than the shirt. You could either try to have machine darned but that may make it more obvious than it already is.
The other option is to use something like fray check to coat the hole so that it doesn't fray anymore. Trim away any tiny fuzzies and apply the fray check to the edge of the hole. You could even go just a bit farther by attaching a piece of shirting fabric on the underside of the collar where the hole is using some fusible fabric fusion type glue. The whole idea is to use something that will completely prevent further fraying. Then, thru the normal washing lifespan, the cotton will shrink and be pressed often enough to generally make the hole unnoticeable.

My other piece of advise is to not watch Edward Scissorhands before opening your new shirts...

Much appreciated, I will try that. I assume I can get the fray check at any general fabric store?

And, your advise is duly noted! It came in one of those supposedly untearable shipping bags so I had to break out the scissors. The bag was barely big enough to fit the shirt so the collar was pressed right up against the edge. Coupled with it being my first RLPL bought for myself, it was a sitting duck.
post #4360 of 5281
Any fabric store or wawak.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJhambone09 View Post

Much appreciated, I will try that. I assume I can get the fray check at any general fabric store?

And, your advise is duly noted! It came in one of those supposedly untearable shipping bags so I had to break out the scissors. The bag was barely big enough to fit the shirt so the collar was pressed right up against the edge. Coupled with it being my first RLPL bought for myself, it was a sitting duck.
post #4361 of 5281

Is it possible to alter an overcoat from size 48 to 46?

post #4362 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baked Potato View Post

Is it possible to alter an overcoat from size 48 to 46?

Sometimes
post #4363 of 5281

I just had a new tailor put in buttonholes for me on a suit jacket. Any opinions on the handwork?

 

 

 

post #4364 of 5281

Hi all,

 

I'm getting a suit from Sid Mashburn and have been through the initial tailoring and a second round. I just got the suit back, and stupidly thinking all would be well, I simply picked it up. I'll be going back a third time. I had originally gone in with the thought of having an MTM garment, but I was talked out of this because my body type doesn't require any crazy alterations and going the off-the-rack and tailor approach would be faster.

 

I'm having a hard time articulating what I want done to this suit. I think the top is too boxy, and even after alterations to supposedly address this, there still seems to be a roll under the collar. The pants, which have been slimmed, tapered and let out a bit, still seem not as streamlined as I would want them, and there looks to be some extra fabric around the thighs. Also, the back of the pants is doing something strange around the knee that was supposed to have been addressed.

 

What else? I, of course, want this to be perfect.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #4365 of 5281

Sorry for the bad pictures but I'm getting these parabolic wrinkles from under my arms to the vent. I have $700 sunk into this coat so far, which my tailor assured me could be fixed, so I'm determined to get the damn thing right. There is no pulling in the front at all so that leads me to believe that it's a drape issue.

 

In my examining of her work it appears as those she raised the vent about 1" and let out the sides the width of a thumbnail right below the arm, tapering back to the original seam at the vent opening. 

 

My question is, can it be fixed and how?

 

 


Edited by EMartNJ - 1/28/14 at 5:01pm
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