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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 290

post #4336 of 5198

Can knitwear be altered?  I've lost a significant amount of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in.  If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?

post #4337 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringodaddy View Post
 

Can knitwear be altered?  I've lost a significant amount of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in.  If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?

i've always wondered this as well... i'm almost positive it has to be doable, i would imagine its similar to taking in a shirt or pant taper.

post #4338 of 5198

Hey guys, I bought this sportcoat, while it fits pretty well in the body, I am a little worried about the shoulders. There is some divoting going on, especially on my right shoulder. I've looked at Jeffrey's post here http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror. Am I overthinking the divoting on the jacket or should I consider sizing up one and tailor the body down?

 

post #4339 of 5198

Cross post from Luxire thread:

 

 

 

I sent a good fitting pair of jeans for cloning, the jeans had a slight boot cut (flair out below the knee). My issue is, the side seams appear to be too far forward, making the side seams "wrap" around my thigh and calf. This is less noticeable when standing, but when seated the side seam goes from my pocket then more on top of my thigh and then down on top of my calf. This is very hard to explain and difficult to photo due to the darkness of the material. It almost feels like the seams are crooked, but they aren't. I think what is going on is: talking about circumference around the leg (thigh for example), there is more material across the back from inner to outer leg seam, than the front from inner to outer leg seam. Maybe this photo will help: please note the crease in the pant leg, which is perfectly centered on the leg, but once on and standing the seam kicks off to one side. Both legs do this. Any ideas what is going on here is greatly appreciated, and more importantly, how I can effectively communicate this upon my next order. (I do not fault Luxire at all on this, and after some inspection, the jeans are the same way, just not as noticeable, so they did exactly what I asked. I would just like to correct this issue on future orders)

 

 

 

Thanks everyone!

post #4340 of 5198

Heavier guys like a higher button...if the top button has a lower stance it emphasizes large bellies. I think  3-button jackets look better on heavier guys as well for this reason

post #4341 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringodaddy View Post
 

Can knitwear be altered?  I've lost a significant amount of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in.  If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?


Yes, have had a tailor take in the sides so less blousy. Did a good job and fits me better. Don't know about the chest though.

post #4342 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob2013 View Post
 

Cross post from Luxire thread:

 

 

 

I sent a good fitting pair of jeans for cloning, the jeans had a slight boot cut (flair out below the knee). My issue is, the side seams appear to be too far forward, making the side seams "wrap" around my thigh and calf. This is less noticeable when standing, but when seated the side seam goes from my pocket then more on top of my thigh and then down on top of my calf. This is very hard to explain and difficult to photo due to the darkness of the material. It almost feels like the seams are crooked, but they aren't. I think what is going on is: talking about circumference around the leg (thigh for example), there is more material across the back from inner to outer leg seam, than the front from inner to outer leg seam. Maybe this photo will help: please note the crease in the pant leg, which is perfectly centered on the leg, but once on and standing the seam kicks off to one side. Both legs do this. Any ideas what is going on here is greatly appreciated, and more importantly, how I can effectively communicate this upon my next order. (I do not fault Luxire at all on this, and after some inspection, the jeans are the same way, just not as noticeable, so they did exactly what I asked. I would just like to correct this issue on future orders)

 

 

 

Thanks everyone!

 

 

Here are two top down photos that might illustrate the issue better. One has the side seam high lighted as it's hard to see on the original photo:

 

 

post #4343 of 5198

bbob2013, Google "jeans twisting" and you'll run into all kinds of stuff.

post #4344 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob2013 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbob2013 View Post

 
Cross post from Luxire thread:



I sent a good fitting pair of jeans for cloning, the jeans had a slight boot cut (flair out below the knee). My issue is, the side seams appear to be too far forward, making the side seams "wrap" around my thigh and calf. This is less noticeable when standing, but when seated the side seam goes from my pocket then more on top of my thigh and then down on top of my calf. This is very hard to explain and difficult to photo due to the darkness of the material. It almost feels like the seams are crooked, but they aren't. I think what is going on is: talking about circumference around the leg (thigh for example), there is more material across the back from inner to outer leg seam, than the front from inner to outer leg seam. Maybe this photo will help: please note the crease in the pant leg, which is perfectly centered on the leg, but once on and standing the seam kicks off to one side. Both legs do this. Any ideas what is going on here is greatly appreciated, and more importantly, how I can effectively communicate this upon my next order. (I do not fault Luxire at all on this, and after some inspection, the jeans are the same way, just not as noticeable, so they did exactly what I asked. I would just like to correct this issue on future orders)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Thanks everyone!

It is the way almost every trouser leg is cut. The width of the back part is 1 to 1 1/2" bigger than the front panel and this difference increases at the upper part of the leg. It's normal. A few times I have cut the front and back the same width at the knee and bottom but to achieve a certain effect
post #4345 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringodaddy View Post

Can knitwear be altered?  I've lost a significant amout of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in.  If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?

It can be. Have known alteration shops in big stores like Neiman Marcus to have the same machines used to make sweaters to keep the seams as original. Without the specific machine I would think you need to use a serger with a lock stitch. Sweaters stretch and the seam needs elasticity. Haven't done this and I don't want to learn to do this but I think that is how it could be done. Know someone who had sweaters altered at the women's store St Johns. They made ladies knitwear and knew how to work on knit materials. Not sure if they are still around.
post #4346 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by berniep56 View Post

Hey guys, I bought this sportcoat, while it fits pretty well in the body, I am a little worried about the shoulders. There is some divoting going on, especially on my right shoulder. I've looked at Jeffrey's post here http://www.styleforum.net/t/151698/divot-terror. Am I overthinking the divoting on the jacket or should I consider sizing up one and tailor the body down?



Those aren't divots on top of the shoulder. Those bumps are very hard to adjust for and create a clean shoulder line. Sizing probably won't make a difference.
post #4347 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringodaddy View Post
 

Can knitwear be altered?  I've lost a significant amout of weight and would like to have a few sweaters taken in.  If so, can anyone recommend a tailor in NYC that does this?

What @Despos said is correct. I have a 4 thread household serger that I use for exactly this reason. The better option would be the machine that naturally seams up the sweater in the first place, the 4 thread serger (it's technically 3 thread with the 4th being a mock safety stitch). I thrifted a few old cashmere sweaters so I could do my work in the not so warm part of the building where my shop area is. They were super blousy. Since they were just for working around in, I just sent em on through the serger and it worked out just fine.

post #4348 of 5198

I am looking at a Sportcoat to thrift that is listed a 20" across the shoulders.  It is a lightly padded Samuelsohn.


I measure 19.5" by a tailor and in trendier cuts I have SCs which measure 19" across the shoulders


Will this be a problem for the fit?

post #4349 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by sean anon View Post
 

I am looking at a Sportcoat to thrift that is listed a 20" across the shoulders.  It is a lightly padded Samuelsohn.


I measure 19.5" by a tailor and in trendier cuts I have SCs which measure 19" across the shoulders


Will this be a problem for the fit?

Pull out a tape measure and look at 1/4 inch. This is the difference at each shoulder.  If the length is good, you should have no problem.  If you are a hipster and wear things really snug, you might worry. :)

post #4350 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by atoms View Post
 

bbob2013, Google "jeans twisting" and you'll run into all kinds of stuff.

Wow you weren't kidding I ran into all kinds of info about leg twist! Apparently it's a hot topic around with the denim crowd, and a desirable feature for some. Here is a great technical definition that is exactly what I am experiencing:

 

"Twisted leg(s) occur when the fabric moves more than 2.54 centimeters (1 inch) out of alignment in the leg of a garment from the knee to the garment hem. This garment condition occurs in garment finishing and most often not observed until the final pressing stage. There are numerous causes for leg twist, including improper cutting and sewing practices and incorrect skew control in fabric finishing "

 

My issue is, I had a pair of pants made based on a pair of jeans that had leg twist. Love the fit and want to order more (Luxire). How can I best communicate this to prevent and/or correct the pattern? Think It would just be easier to give measurements from this pair for fit and have a scratch pair made? 

 

(I have put an email out to them for feedback, still awaiting reply)

 

Thanks!

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