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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 288

post #4306 of 5281

Hi all,

 

my first post here. I bought a new RTW suit from an online flash sales store (thought it might be a bargain..) several weeks ago, and went to a tailor to get sleeves and pants hemmed. When I got the suit back yesterday I suddenly noticed that the breast pocket is missing on the jacket... That is quite weird. Is this feature unacceptable or just some kind of preference?

 

It's a quite standard navy suit that is intended to be used in formal occasions, including job interviews.

 

Also, could you please comment on the fit? I guess there might be some balance issues as suggested by the side view. Any other issues and suggestions?

 

Much appreciated!

 

 

 


Edited by Biberach - 1/18/14 at 7:12am
post #4307 of 5281

Can a fold directly behind the arm be fixed? I have an overcoat where the shoulders and chest fit but when my arms are at my sides it makes a fold behind the arm kind of like an action back. I'm hoping it's fixable. 

post #4308 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMartNJ View Post
 

Can a fold directly behind the arm be fixed? I have an overcoat where the shoulders and chest fit but when my arms are at my sides it makes a fold behind the arm kind of like an action back. I'm hoping it's fixable. 

EMartNJ,

 

guess you're talking about here

 

well I'm not sure if it's fixable. I do find if I put my arms a little bit forward the fold could be eliminated. Anyway, as the cloth is not quite stretchable I guess if the arm position is not in line with the pre-shaped arm angle, the fold would be inevitable. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

And I guess there might be a standard for "good" pre-shaped arm angle?

post #4309 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

OTC, Despos, JeffreyD, another experienced tailor, someone with personal experience, etc...hoping for some advice on a shirt issue. I am getting fed up with an issue I get can't rid of, to the point where I am about to just do some bespoke shirt fittings. This a MTM that fits well (I think), but I am plagued by this shoulder crease. I have asked them to adjust for sloped shoulders with a right drop, but it didn't do much. Not sure what measurement I need to adjust to smooth it out, I've tried just about everything. By the way, the shirt doesn't pull in the waist/chest, this was just the end of a long day. Thanks for any light you can shed...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
0A4AD8CC-EBEA-41E8-9A86-17F99638D2F7_zps2ocmrcng.jpg

The picture is very grainy and I can't make out where the sleeve seam is but I think you want to narrow the yoke so the shoulder seam moves up and doesn't fall off your shoulder. That will reduce the front width and take care of the fold of cloth. I would add 1/2" to the front chest only (not the back part) at the bottom of the armhole. That will help a lot. The curve/shape of the front of the armhole might need tweaking but that is hard to diagnose from a picture and even harder to adjust using a MTM program.
post #4310 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biberach View Post

Hi all,

my first post here. I bought a new RTW suit from an online flash sales store (thought it might be a bargain..) several weeks ago, and went to a tailor to get sleeves and pants hemmed. When I got the suit back yesterday I suddenly noticed that the breast pocket is missing on the jacket... That is quite weird. Is this feature unacceptable or just some kind of preference?

It's a quite standard navy suit that is intended to be used in formal occasions, including job interviews.

Also, could you please comment on the fit? I guess there might be some balance issues as suggested by the side view. Any other issues and suggestions?

Much appreciated!

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







If there is no breast pocket and this will bother you, return the suit. Fit issue is short front/long back balance in relation to your posture. You have a very low right shoulder. Adding a pad on the right side will help some. The sleeves need to be cut to match the armhole and reset. All this is difficult and expensive to do.
post #4311 of 5281
Despos,

thanks very much for your comments! I've read quite a number of your posts, which help a lot.

Unfortunately I've already done alterations to the suit and thus cannot return it. Guess I should have asked earlier.. will try Ebay later..

Another quick question, given my body build and stance, should I consider at least MTM to find a proper fit?

Thanks again!
Edited by Biberach - 1/18/14 at 9:48am
post #4312 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

The picture is very grainy and I can't make out where the sleeve seam is but I think you want to narrow the yoke so the shoulder seam moves up and doesn't fall off your shoulder. That will reduce the front width and take care of the fold of cloth. I would add 1/2" to the front chest only (not the back part) at the bottom of the armhole. That will help a lot. The curve/shape of the front of the armhole might need tweaking but that is hard to diagnose from a picture and even harder to adjust using a MTM program.

Thanks for the response! I will give it a try.
post #4313 of 5281

Bought my first suit and MTM shirt. I´m afraid I got it all a bit too small….Any feedback on fit and possible alternations (both suit and shirt) is much appreciated

 

 

 

post #4314 of 5281

hey guys just received my wedding suit this weekend and would really appreciate any input. 

Wedding is in a month and unfortunately maybe due to misunderstanding my 2nd fitting is no longer possible and I have to figure out how to alter the suit by myself.

 

Thing's i've noticed:

The right sleeve seems to be sitting a little  weirdly. It took a lot of fiddling to get the suit to sit like it is in the picture. When i just put the jacket on there is about a 1.5 inch difference between the cuffs showing. You can see significant bunching around the sleeve head from the rear.  (The shirt came with the suit so maybe the cuffs are off because of the shirt not fitting?)

Jacket it quite tight across the back. is this fixable?

Shoulders look lopsided. There's no padding, but tailor told me that padding is not needed to even up shoulders.(?)

 

Trouser seem a little baggy too. which is odd since this is the 2nd MTM suit I've bought from these guys and the fit on the pants of the first one was spot on. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #4315 of 5281

Hey folks, looking to get some help before placing an order from MT for multiple shirts. 

 

I'm having two issues with my past shirts that I cannot figure out. 

 

1) Shirt rolls up behind the collar

2) Shoulder fold 

 

Pics of shirts with the collar rolling up. I've adjusted the shoulder types, increased shoulder width. It's all the same.

 

 

 

 

Pics of the weird folding around my shoulder/chest area:

 

 

 

 

 

post #4316 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxo View Post
 

Bought my first suit and MTM shirt. I´m afraid I got it all a bit too small….Any feedback on fit and possible alternations (both suit and shirt) is much appreciated

 

 

 

Surely the jacket is quite trim but it would be ok if the front balance were longer and the back balance a little shorter. Looks like your posture is a little head forward. Shoulders more sloped and lower on the right. Forward hips and swayback, as well. The jacket shoulders look too big but they may not be sloped enough for your shoulders resulting in sleeve caps that are too high. Sleeves need to be removed and recut to fit the armhole. Maybe sloping the shoulders a bit would help too. THat's a big job.

post #4317 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by VOGESUS View Post
 

Hey folks, looking to get some help before placing an order from MT for multiple shirts. 

 

I'm having two issues with my past shirts that I cannot figure out. 

 

1) Shirt rolls up behind the collar

2) Shoulder fold 

 

Pics of shirts with the collar rolling up. I've adjusted the shoulder types, increased shoulder width. It's all the same.

 

 

 

 

Pics of the weird folding around my shoulder/chest area:

 

 

 

 

 

Much like a previous poster, it appears (though hard to tell with these perspective limiting photos) that your shoulders are a little more square or posture more erect than what is built into the shirt. Then, it looks like the yoke may be too wide falling off your shoulder but maybe not. The [main] problem is made a little worse by insufficient room in the chest only. Adding to the sideseam under the arm would be the right fix but isn't possible to a finished shirt.

post #4318 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by VOGESUS View Post

Hey folks, looking to get some help before placing an order from MT for multiple shirts. 

I'm having two issues with my past shirts that I cannot figure out. 

1) Shirt rolls up behind the collar
2) Shoulder fold 

Pics of shirts with the collar rolling up. I've adjusted the shoulder types, increased shoulder width. It's all the same.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)









Pics of the weird folding around my shoulder/chest area:











How and what shoulder adjustment did you ask for?
The issue here is you have square shoulders and the shirt is cut with more shoulder slope than your shoulder line. This creates the excess cloth under the collar and around your neck
post #4319 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovlov View Post

hey guys just received my wedding suit this weekend and would really appreciate any input. 
Wedding is in a month and unfortunately maybe due to misunderstanding my 2nd fitting is no longer possible and I have to figure out how to alter the suit by myself.

Thing's i've noticed:
The right sleeve seems to be sitting a little  weirdly. It took a lot of fiddling to get the suit to sit like it is in the picture. When i just put the jacket on there is about a 1.5 inch difference between the cuffs showing. You can see significant bunching around the sleeve head from the rear.  (The shirt came with the suit so maybe the cuffs are off because of the shirt not fitting?)
Jacket it quite tight across the back. is this fixable?
Shoulders look lopsided. There's no padding, but tailor told me that padding is not needed to even up shoulders.(?)

Trouser seem a little baggy too. which is odd since this is the 2nd MTM suit I've bought from these guys and the fit on the pants of the first one was spot on. 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)























Let the jacket out under under the arms at the side seams. This will make the back more comfortable. Adjust the sleeve length.

I think you mean the trouser is baggy under the seat. You have a small/high seat and the best result is cutting the seat curve properly. All that can be done now is to take in the crotch. Don't taper the leg any more. You will look out of balance. You are very big on top and skinny trousers will look off.
post #4320 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovlov View Post
 

hey guys just received my wedding suit this weekend and would really appreciate any input. 

Wedding is in a month and unfortunately maybe due to misunderstanding my 2nd fitting is no longer possible and I have to figure out how to alter the suit by myself.

 

Thing's i've noticed:

The right sleeve seems to be sitting a little  weirdly. It took a lot of fiddling to get the suit to sit like it is in the picture. When i just put the jacket on there is about a 1.5 inch difference between the cuffs showing. You can see significant bunching around the sleeve head from the rear.  (The shirt came with the suit so maybe the cuffs are off because of the shirt not fitting?)

Jacket it quite tight across the back. is this fixable?

Shoulders look lopsided. There's no padding, but tailor told me that padding is not needed to even up shoulders.(?)

 

Trouser seem a little baggy too. which is odd since this is the 2nd MTM suit I've bought from these guys and the fit on the pants of the first one was spot on. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well there's quite a bit going on here. Maybe @Despos can offer critique, as well. 

It looks like your left blade is larger than the right blade and right chest larger than the left. That's causing the bulk of the problems with the jacket. The right sleeve pulling is from your chest putting strain against the armhole which pulls the sleeve. Not enough cloth in the chest. Same problem is on the left but it's all in your blades. Not enough cloth there. 

The problem may be helped by letting out the side seam at the side body only on the left. The sleeve then has to be refit to the slightly enlarge armhole. Same on the right but it's trickier as the lack of cloth is more in the chest and there probably isn't any outlet there.

The problem is hard[er] to correct within an MTM system because the tailor or seller may not have any control over the pattern adjustments. In other words, just because we can see the problem here doesn't mean it can easily be communicated and properly corrected in where ever the pattern is made.

On the pants, it appears that the seat has too much fabric and the balance is also too long in the back. Taking in the seat and possibly lowering the back waistband might help.

A slight knock-knee adjustment may help as well. 

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