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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 287

post #4291 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Thanks OTC. Maybe pics will help (again, I'm grateful if any of the other tailors weigh in)

 

This was in fact a remake of an MTM. I asked for a lower button stance the second time round and while it is lower than before, it still ended up  higher than I would like. I think about one more button width down (about one inch) would put it near or at my natural waist. As to length, I think it could be a touch longer, but I'd be ok where it is (it covers my seat). I wouldn't lengthen more than half an inch. The higher button stance makes the quarters open slightly more aggressively than I would like, but it's wearable for sure. Otherwise, it's pretty clean, shoulders, back, sleeve pitch. THings that I would notice seem ok otherwise. I'd go with them again if I could change the button stance and length.

 

OK, so I might lengthen it half an inch and lower the stance about an inch. Do I have to lower the second button one inch as well but then what about its relation to the pockets? That's my question.

 

 

 

 

I would lengthen 1/2 to 3/4, actually. Lowering the stance as is would, IMHBAO, make it look better than it currently does. However, lengthening and lowering the stance would create an altogether better aesthetic.

post #4292 of 5281


Here's a picture of one of my clients. He has a very long torso and didn't want the button stance very high. His next pieces will have it raised a little, however. Notice the low stance doesn't take it out of balance but any lower and not good.
post #4293 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

I would lengthen 1/2 to 3/4, actually. Lowering the stance as is would, IMHBAO, make it look better than it currently does. However, lengthening and lowering the stance would create an altogether better aesthetic.


Thanks...I agree. Probably lowering both would be good, was my inclination. Any subtler issues that I'm not seeing?

post #4294 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Thanks...I agree. Probably lowering both would be good, was my inclination. Any subtler issues that I'm not seeing?

Nothing really. Looks like the vents are still basted shut, but that's nothing. Jacket is pretty clean.

post #4295 of 5281

Hi,

 

could you give me fitting advice on these pants, how the measurements should be adjusted (apart from the length) to give it a better look, especially legs and around butt.

 

 

 

Measurements are

Waist: 16.50
Hip: 20.50
Thigh: 13.00
Knee: 9.00
Bottom: 8.00
Front Rise: 10.50
Back Rise: 17.00

 

Thanks alot.

post #4296 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post



Here's a picture of one of my clients. He has a very long torso and didn't want the button stance very high. His next pieces will have it raised a little, however. Notice the low stance doesn't take it out of balance but any lower and not good.

 

Whats this guys drop, looks like an hour glass

post #4297 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcbrgs View Post

Whats this guys drop, looks like an hour glass

It's a normal drop but when you like your jackets fitted that close to the body, this is what you're going to get.
A lot of my clients have a low style IQ/maturity. They tell me what they want and if it is to one extreme or another I will issue a warning but ultimately they get what they want.
They like expensive suits, tho....which I am more than willing to provide.
post #4298 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

@azif
Tailors will point out subtle features but I do think could be a bit longer as you seem visually to have longer legs so might want to give more solidity to top by having a longer jacket. For that reason I am not a fan of the skinny lapels and the high button stance.

Try this. Unbutton top and then pinch below the top button an inch or two as if it had a lower stance, showing more of your shirt and tie. This to me has the appearance of
De emphasizing your mid section and emphasizing you're chest and is visually more pleasing. Isn't it?

The sleeve pitch is off for you and hence the wrinkling in back of sleeve. That can be fixed I think by reattaching sleeve but not simple. Button stance and lapel width cannot be changed. Of course, some like high button stances and skinny lapels so ignore my thoughts if you favor that.

Btw you might try shirts with a higher collar. I'm like you tall and thin and more
Collar height works nicely.

Just my two cents.

Thank you for the feedback. I quite like the skinny lapels but can see what you mean about the high button stance.

On the fence now about keeping it. I don't think id be able to find a better fitting half canvassed suit for the 550ish I paid for it though.

Are there particular brands of suits and shirts that you could recommend for my build or will I need to go made to measure?
post #4299 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by azif View Post


Thank you for the feedback. I quite like the skinny lapels but can see what you mean about the high button stance.

On the fence now about keeping it. I don't think id be able to find a better fitting half canvassed suit for the 550ish I paid for it though.

Are there particular brands of suits and shirts that you could recommend for my build or will I need to go made to measure?

My two cents, but if you are on the fence, then definitely return it. It doesn't fit you that well.


On other options where you will likely do better: Suit Supply (if you have it in Australia). But they ship internationally and have good return policies. THere is a suit supply SF thread, and they tend to tailor to slender frames (see their models). So they might suit you. The OTR suits are half-canvassed, typically made in good italian fabrics, and on average in the $400 dollar (US) range. Different styles, but check out the thread. I think you can do better for 550 through them, though I hear suits are very expensive in Australia. The jacket I posted above is a Suit Supply jacket (though as I note there, the stance is also too high for my tastes...pay attention to the different model jackets, mine is a Roma).

 

On shirts, try MTM. Italian shirts like Barba and Borrelli have higher collars but they are more expensive (see Shop the Finest). Suit Supply has shirts but I don't know much about them. Luxire seems quite popular among certain "elite" SF members, i.e. people I would listen to. Again, there is a thread for Luxire so you can see what is available. Remember, MTM is a process, if you go that route. The first shirt almost never fits perfectly but there are ways to help the process (e.g. measuring your best fitting shirt or sending one in). I've used Mytailor too, and modern tailor has a great deal with a 20 dollar first shirt so you can try it out (indeed, I might suggest modern tailor's deal as a first try if you go MTM...I'm not ultimately convinced about their quality though).

 

Actually, see Kamakura as well. Henry Carter, who is australian and has a store, wears their shirts all the time and looks fantastic in them. THey ship from Japan, closer to you and are an amazing value. I might try one of their shirts first but check out the Kamakura thread for sizing (again, here in SF).

 

On skinny lapels, they are certainly in fashion. One thing is that lapels should have some proportion to your frame but also to the width of your tie, all three of which should balance in an aesthetically pleasing way. You should take narrower width ties but not skinny. 8cm. But I definitely think you should go wider on the lapel and it would do your look well, add substance to your torso, which is good for us skinny guys. Then, you wouldn't look like all the other guys sporting skinny lapels.:) 

post #4300 of 5281

Hello tailors,

 

 

I see a lot of posts related to the pelvic tilt causing issues around the buttock area. The solution seems to be to lower the waistband at the back to make the back panel sit lower. What if one wants to wear high rise trousers with braces? How would the adjustment be made then?

 

 

Thanks,

 

DD

 

 

P.S. Thank you for your help last time OTCtailor. I managed to get a shirt well done through an MTM using your advice.

post #4301 of 5281
The trouser should be cut/fitted properly regardless of wearing braces. The trouser won't be cut differently for braces.

Altering a RTM trouser you do lower the waistband in back but you are really lifting up the back part. The other adjustment is straightening the out seam. It's these two adjustments in tandem that clean up the back part.
post #4302 of 5281

The best thing to do is sketch out a few different versions and see which one you like.

 

E.g. on the quick photoshop below : the button is probably 1.5" lower ... the distance between the 1st and second button is probably 0.5" less ... the pockets haven't moved. 

 

You'll note I've rolled the lapels lower and tried to give a bit of a better sense of how the quarters would sit with the lower button.

 

Really you can play around with all these elements until you find the version you personally like.

 

I'd then show that to your tailor; the clearer you can be the more likely I think you'll end up happy with the final suit so it's worth investing a bit of time.

 

post #4303 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by madoxoflondon View Post
 

The best thing to do is sketch out a few different versions and see which one you like.

 

E.g. on the quick photoshop below : the button is probably 1.5" lower ... the distance between the 1st and second button is probably 0.5" less ... the pockets haven't moved. 

 

You'll note I've rolled the lapels lower and tried to give a bit of a better sense of how the quarters would sit with the lower button.

 

Really you can play around with all these elements until you find the version you personally like.

 

I'd then show that to your tailor; the clearer you can be the more likely I think you'll end up happy with the final suit so it's worth investing a bit of time.

 


That's very helpful!

 

I like the stance on the right much better and it is what I'd like to achieve. For those wondering about difference in button stances, I think the right looks much better. Away with high stances! Why is high stance still in fashion?

 

I don't think the left looks that bad (of course I would think that!), but the right looks to me much better.

 

I might drop the length half an inch at least and then shift the button stance down 1 inch or so.

 

But again, I'd like to understand the rules on placement of bottom of jacket, the pocket, and the two lower buttons. Perhaps there is flexibility, but there must be some rough and ready rules (e.g. the bottom button should be same height as top of the pocket, ideally).

post #4304 of 5281
OTC, Despos, JeffreyD, another experienced tailor, someone with personal experience, etc...hoping for some advice on a shirt issue. I am getting fed up with an issue I get can't rid of, to the point where I am about to just do some bespoke shirt fittings. This a MTM that fits well (I think), but I am plagued by this shoulder crease. I have asked them to adjust for sloped shoulders with a right drop, but it didn't do much. Not sure what measurement I need to adjust to smooth it out, I've tried just about everything. By the way, the shirt doesn't pull in the waist/chest, this was just the end of a long day. Thanks for any light you can shed...

0A4AD8CC-EBEA-41E8-9A86-17F99638D2F7_zps2ocmrcng.jpg
post #4305 of 5281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

OTC, Despos, JeffreyD, another experienced tailor, someone with personal experience, etc...hoping for some advice on a shirt issue. I am getting fed up with an issue I get can't rid of, to the point where I am about to just do some bespoke shirt fittings. This a MTM that fits well (I think), but I am plagued by this shoulder crease. I have asked them to adjust for sloped shoulders with a right drop, but it didn't do much. Not sure what measurement I need to adjust to smooth it out, I've tried just about everything. By the way, the shirt doesn't pull in the waist/chest, this was just the end of a long day. Thanks for any light you can shed... Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

0A4AD8CC-EBEA-41E8-9A86-17F99638D2F7_zps2ocmrcng.jpg

 

I'm no expert, but I think you want to adjust for a forward shoulder.

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