There are really no absolutes in the discussion of buttonstance. In my experience, it is almost entirely based on client's preference/comfort for where they button the coat. Going a bit high or a bit low would raise a warning flag that, as a tailor, you present to client and see what the response is. We can make anything, but should we?
on a 3R2, it is best to think about designing it as a 2btn because it essentially is. That top button is obviously not meant to function.
Also, when it comes to balancing out a short torso, you can lower the stance slightly but you have less flex than with a longer torso. Better to adjust the gorge height in conjunction with a slightly lower stance. Then, roll that lapel right to the first button.
On a longer torso, you can have the button stance in a more 'neutral' location or slightly lower by preference and roll the lapel higher. That allows the wearer to have the best combo for button point comfort and torso length balance.
If you're lowering the stance so much that you have to consider lengthening the coat, then it's probably too far.
Thanks OTC. Maybe pics will help (again, I'm grateful if any of the other tailors weigh in)
This was in fact a remake of an MTM. I asked for a lower button stance the second time round and while it is lower than before, it still ended up higher than I would like. I think about one more button width down (about one inch) would put it near or at my natural waist. As to length, I think it could be a touch longer, but I'd be ok where it is (it covers my seat). I wouldn't lengthen more than half an inch. The higher button stance makes the quarters open slightly more aggressively than I would like, but it's wearable for sure. Otherwise, it's pretty clean, shoulders, back, sleeve pitch. THings that I would notice seem ok otherwise. I'd go with them again if I could change the button stance and length.
OK, so I might lengthen it half an inch and lower the stance about an inch. Do I have to lower the second button one inch as well but then what about its relation to the pockets? That's my question.