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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 285

post #4261 of 5342
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyboy View Post

Hi All!

Long time lurker. Just trying on Kent Wang's MTM process. I have his OTR at the moment - fitted it to my shoulders (hopefully) since the rest of my torso is pretty off balance from the shoulders.

Any feedback on the fit? Any recommendations for options like a roped/soft shoulder? I'm meant to be presenting to clients and the board at some point in the next quarter and I don't want to look like an ass.

If I understand correctly, this is a try on jacket to use for sizing preceding a MTM order. Find the proper size to fit your body, chest and waist and have the point to point (shoulder width) narrowed. Just get the slope of jacket shoulder to match your shoulder slope and get the default shoulder style. If you get the proper size jacket and don't like the shoulder styling, try something else.
post #4262 of 5342

Despos, 

 

I have been referred to you after much high praise in the MC Forum. I just received this suit that I'm wearing and I would like your viewpoint on the jacket. I'm a tough build 6'2 210lb ex football player with a very muscular build. The photos you'll see are me in a 42R SS Napoli. I've been advised that MTM might be a better option for me so if you have pointers on that too I'd love to hear it and also if you have suggestions on good MTM programs...anyway here is the fit:

 

details... (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

post #4263 of 5342
Doesn't look too bad. Your main concern is to get a smooth fit on your shoulders and since you have sloping shoulders a good MTM program will adjust the slope to match your shoulder line. It's hard to get a jacket to stay up high enough on your neck.

The bigger issue is your overarm measure (chest and arms measured together) in relation to your chest size is problematic. That is the cause of the pulling and stress lines at the base of where the sleeve is attached to the jacket. You need more cloth across the front chest but a larger armhole and sleeve for the jacket size of your chest.

Getting this correct is possible but you want to find a good fitter/tailor that understands how to fit you. If you find this knowledgeable person they probably know the best MTM program to work with. Someone like Jefferyd at Hart Schaffner Marx is the type of tailor you want to find. Maybe the HSM program would work for you.

I focused on the upper body issues because getting that right will make a good looking and comfortable jacket for you. Shaping the waist is easier than fitting your chest properly

Thank you for the kind words
post #4264 of 5342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Doesn't look too bad. Your main concern is to get a smooth fit on your shoulders and since you have sloping shoulders a good MTM program will adjust the slope to match your shoulder line. It's hard to get a jacket to stay up high enough on your neck.

The bigger issue is your overarm measure (chest and arms measured together) in relation to your chest size is problematic. That is the cause of the pulling and stress lines at the base of where the sleeve is attached to the jacket. You need more cloth across the front chest but a larger armhole and sleeve for the jacket size of your chest.

Getting this correct is possible but you want to find a good fitter/tailor that understands how to fit you. If you find this knowledgeable person they probably know the best MTM program to work with. Someone like Jefferyd at Hart Schaffner Marx is the type of tailor you want to find. Maybe the HSM program would work for you.

I focused on the upper body issues because getting that right will make a good looking and comfortable jacket for you. Shaping the waist is easier than fitting your chest properly

Thank you for the kind words

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Doesn't look too bad. Your main concern is to get a smooth fit on your shoulders and since you have sloping shoulders a good MTM program will adjust the slope to match your shoulder line. It's hard to get a jacket to stay up high enough on your neck.

The bigger issue is your overarm measure (chest and arms measured together) in relation to your chest size is problematic. That is the cause of the pulling and stress lines at the base of where the sleeve is attached to the jacket. You need more cloth across the front chest but a larger armhole and sleeve for the jacket size of your chest.

Getting this correct is possible but you want to find a good fitter/tailor that understands how to fit you. If you find this knowledgeable person they probably know the best MTM program to work with. Someone like Jefferyd at Hart Schaffner Marx is the type of tailor you want to find. Maybe the HSM program would work for you.

I focused on the upper body issues because getting that right will make a good looking and comfortable jacket for you. Shaping the waist is easier than fitting your chest properly

Thank you for the kind words

 

That's awesome. I attributed the sleeve issue to simple pitch issues when it was put together. I live in the NYC area and everyone Tom, Dick, and Harry claims to be the best tailor. I don't know if you are familiar with the area, but do any names jump out to you off the top of your head.

post #4265 of 5342
Don't know MTM guys in NY only custom makers who make in house. You could call Martin Greenfield and talk to Joe Genuardi and see what he says. They are familiar with working with athletes. Would also recommend Ercole. You will get more for your money and get more benefit from basted fittings to get things right. Even if Ercole costs more, it would be worth it.

I don't think of myself or anyone else by who is the best, I do try and put a lot of effort into doing the right thing, and doing it well.
post #4266 of 5342

I'm gonna crosspost this here, as I didn't get much feedback in the Peacoat thread, and I'll be going to a normal tailor anyway:
 

 

I would appreciate some feedback on the fit of this peacoat:

 

Thanks!

post #4267 of 5342
update time. i went to my tailor tonight to try on the jacket that i had her let out from the back center seam. i am happy to report that it now fits like a dream, and as far as i can tell it also dropped the armhole a tad, which i was hoping it would (unless she did something else to alleviate that). and much to my happiness, this minor surgery had no ill side effects on any other parts of the jacket.

YAY!!!
post #4268 of 5342
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

update time. i went to my tailor tonight to try on the jacket that i had her let out from the back center seam. i am happy to report that it now fits like a dream, and as far as i can tell it also dropped the armhole a tad, which i was hoping it would (unless she did something else to alleviate that). and much to my happiness, this minor surgery had no ill side effects on any other parts of the jacket.

YAY!!!


Stitch were there before and after pics? Pics, good.

post #4269 of 5342
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Stitch were there before and after pics? Pics, good.


I have some crappy before pics, but no after pics. I left the tags on and I did not have her do the sleeves til i was sure i was happy with the back. That way I could have her undo the back and sell the jacket if needed. Is that a dick move?

Anyways, I will try and update with before and after pics when I get the finished jacket back.
post #4270 of 5342

Fair enough, Despos. I saw this after I went to the tailor and heard that all the alterations I want will come to $230 - will try and sell.

 

How about this one. It's shorter in length, but still a tad too long I feel. I wouldn't mind paying for the alterations on this one. Any hope?

 

 

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Need style, This jacket is the wrong size and length for you. Better to return/sell than alter. Would be a mistake to try and alter. Adjusting one part of the jacket will emphasize other misproportions and look worse
post #4271 of 5342
Jacket looks too dark on screen to see enough but it looks like the wrong size again. What is your chest size and what size are these jackets? Are these shorts, regular on long?

230.00 was a fair reasonable price for all the work needed. Thought it would be more than that. Regardless, you wouldn't have been happy with the outcome.

You will be best served getting the right chest size, jacket length and shoulder width. Those are the hardest to adjust and should be correct on the jacket when you buy it , then alter the rest.
post #4272 of 5342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Jacket looks too dark on screen to see enough but it looks like the wrong size again. What is your chest size and what size are these jackets? Are these shorts, regular on long?

230.00 was a fair reasonable price for all the work needed. Thought it would be more than that. Regardless, you wouldn't have been happy with the outcome.

 

I think it was fair, but more than what I wanted to invest in the jacket. I'm a 40S; this is a 40R, I believe. I messed up with the length on the last two, so I've learned my lesson.

 

Do you think if I shorten the length a 1/2 inch, and take in the chest and waist it could work, or is it a lost cause? Thanks, Chris, you're insights are always appreciated.

post #4273 of 5342

What does is cost to narrow the shoulder width of a jacket?

post #4274 of 5342

I received my first MTM shirt and pants the other day. I am very pleased as this was my frist order. However, I would appreciate help from you guys in what changes I might need to do for my next order. As this also is my first try with MTM clothing, I feel as though I am a bit lost in the dark about what to do next. So, please have a look at the following images and let me know what you think.

 

Thanks! It is much appreciated.

 


 

More pics... (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have also made a couple of markings on a couple of pics that indicate the areas I'd like to clean up the most. But be sure to tell me if there are other areas that might need some work too. I am all ears.

 

Pictures with highlighted problem areas... (Click to show)

 

 

 

 
post #4275 of 5342
Just picked this up on sale at mrporter. Any suggestions/feedback would be appreciated




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