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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 279

post #4171 of 5335
MhX8ndt

You're wearing a jacket which is objectively too small in every aspect, so what you're asking is inane. If you want useful suggestions, find a jacket which fits reasonably well, take pics, and ask again. Or, just ask the tailor (whom you say you trust) when you're in the room and in front of the mirror. That person has the advantage of seeing you in three dimensions and in motion.

post #4172 of 5335

Hello everyone,

Can someone tell me more about the most common issues with taking in the sides of a coat? I would like to have a coat altered to have more waist suppression. Is this possible and what are the most important rules?

And what about having sleeves lengthened? Is it possible to have the sleeves lengthened for 1,5 cm (which is approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch)?

Many thanks!

post #4173 of 5335

Hi,

 

I just received this suit from Black Lapel.  It is the first try.  It hasn't been pressed so there are some wrinkles, mainly at the lower jacket back and front of arms.  I still have the $75 tailoring credit I can use.  My shoulder joint is at the shoulder seam, but not sure if it is too big as the padding is a very tiny bit past my shoulder joint.  I see the back area around the blades and under the collar has some issues and looks too big.  The arms in the back picture seem to have a lot of wrinkles and not sure if that can be fixed.  The pants are too long.  This might be due to the leg opening being slim fit and more narrow so it can't go over the shoe that far.  Please let me know what should be done.  Below is what I ordered and my measurements.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jacket Measurements:

 

Pants Measurements:

post #4174 of 5335

This is an older totally unstructured sportcoat I have.  I am trying to decide if this needs to go to Goodwill or is this fit is decent to wear very casually.  I think it might just be too short or something else is just not quite right with the proportions.  I do like the fabric quite a bit.

 

Shoulder divot aside the side view

 

 

 

post #4175 of 5335
The first problem is on the order form. Your body description is marked as 'normal" yet you are standing with an erect posture in your photograph. Is that how you normally stand? Or just when posing? This makes a big difference. The fabric at the back of your coat that is laying on your back side is completely due to wrong posture. When you stand in an erect manner the fabric falls downwards. If that is your normal stance, then the fitter got it wrong. If you normally stand in a more relaxed manner, then he did not. you are causing the problem. It's the same for the back of the sleeves, too. Stand erect and you'll get creasing at the back of your sleeves.

Logsdail

Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchyeggroll View Post

Hi,

I just received this suit from Black Lapel.  It is the first try.  It hasn't been pressed so there are some wrinkles, mainly at the lower jacket back and front of arms.  I still have the $75 tailoring credit I can use.  My shoulder joint is at the shoulder seam, but not sure if it is too big as the padding is a very tiny bit past my shoulder joint.  I see the back area around the blades and under the collar has some issues and looks too big.  The arms in the back picture seem to have a lot of wrinkles and not sure if that can be fixed.  The pants are too long.  This might be due to the leg opening being slim fit and more narrow so it can't go over the shoe that far.  Please let me know what should be done.  Below is what I ordered and my measurements.

Thanks!















Jacket Measurements:



Pants Measurements:

post #4176 of 5335

Would love advice on the fit of this peacoat. A few specific areas of concern:

 

1) Just got the waist taken in but it looks lopsided at the bottom. Anyone else see this or is it just me?

2) Should I have the waist taken in even more? Only plan to wear this coat with thin sweater + dress shirt as in the pictures. No need to have a suit fit underneath.

3) Armhole opening too wide at the wrist? 

4) Armhole too wide from the elbow to the shoulder? If so, should I ask the tailor to take fabric away from the bicep side or the tricep side?

 

Thanks!


Edited by indigoroots - 12/14/13 at 12:19pm
post #4177 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by Len View Post

The first problem is on the order form. Your body description is marked as 'normal" yet you are standing with an erect posture in your photograph. Is that how you normally stand? Or just when posing? This makes a big difference. The fabric at the back of your coat that is laying on your back side is completely due to wrong posture. When you stand in an erect manner the fabric falls downwards. If that is your normal stance, then the fitter got it wrong. If you normally stand in a more relaxed manner, then he did not. you are causing the problem. It's the same for the back of the sleeves, too. Stand erect and you'll get creasing at the back of your sleeves.

Logsdail

 

I believe I was standing normally.  I didn't get fitted but had a friend measure me.  For the posture/back shape, I selected normal according to the pictures below.  My back does curve like how it does in the "Normal" picture.

 

 

I also emailed Black Lapel's Concierge for their "second opinion" and they replied:

 

Quote:
 

Overall, this is one fantastic fitting suit!

Below are my recommended changes:

  • Jacket

Shoulders: The wrinkling between your shoulder blades that you’re referring to can be easily fixed. I would recommend having your tailor perform what is called a collar tuck, by 0.5". Other than that, your shoulders are on point!

Sleeves: The bunching that you’re noticing in your upper arm is occurring because your biceps are slightly too large. I would have your tailor tapper the biceps by 0.25 – 0.5". This should cut back on the bunching that you’re noticing.

  • Pants

Pant Length: This all comes down to personal preference. I think that the taper from the knee down is where it should be. I would personally reduce the length by about 0.75". This will give you a more ideal break.

Thigh: I would also consider tapering your thigh by about 0.25". This will give you a slightly more clean line throughout the leg.

In conclusion, there’s not much that needs to be altered with your suit. These small changes will help with the overall fit and aesthetic of an already great looking suit!

 

Thanks for your input.

post #4178 of 5335
The order form is off-putting and does not really effect the stance options properly. I can see how you would mark your posture as normal. Truthfully, I see you as standing erect.


I hesitate to comment on the suggestions given to you by the RL Concierge as I can not see the coat too well. (too dark) A word of caution, though. If you have large biceps and have creasing on your sleeves, I believe there would be a good chance that, by reducing them as suggested, you would only make the matter worse. I might be able to advise better with clarity of photo

Logsdail
post #4179 of 5335
Hi,

I'm new to both this forum and to tailored clothing but i thought it was about time to start with both.
I ordered a MTM shirt from luxire and i'm very impressed with the workmanship.

The fit allover is allright (when taking in account that i figured out the measurements myself).

I was wondering if i could get some pointers from the experts on this forum.


xi6x.jpg

sei3.jpg

I wanted this shirt to be short so i could wear it casual, the next one wil be longer to wear as a dress shirt.
The sleeves are a bit to big for my taste so that is something i will change.

Can't wait to get some feedback so i can place my next order.

 



Thanks in advance!



 

post #4180 of 5335
Increase the armhole measurement, the sleeves are fine.
post #4181 of 5335

That shirts about an inch too short imo

post #4182 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by svdkerkhof View Post

Hi,

I'm new to both this forum and to tailored clothing but i thought it was about time to start with both.

 


I ordered a MTM shirt from luxire and i'm very impressed with the workmanship.

 



The fit allover is allright (when taking in account that i figured out the measurements myself).
 

I was wondering if i could get some pointers from the experts on this forum.


xi6x.jpg

sei3.jpg

 



I wanted this shirt to be short so i could wear it casual, the next one wil be longer to wear as a dress shirt.

 


The sleeves are a bit to big for my taste so that is something i will change.

 



Can't wait to get some feedback so i can place my next order.

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 


I would think about adding darts of tapering the back to get rid of the excess fabric on the back and give you a nicer slim fit.

post #4183 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by svdkerkhof View Post

Hi,

I'm new to both this forum and to tailored clothing but i thought it was about time to start with both.

 


I ordered a MTM shirt from luxire and i'm very impressed with the workmanship.

 



The fit allover is allright (when taking in account that i figured out the measurements myself).
 

I was wondering if i could get some pointers from the experts on this forum.


xi6x.jpg

sei3.jpg

 



I wanted this shirt to be short so i could wear it casual, the next one wil be longer to wear as a dress shirt.

 


The sleeves are a bit to big for my taste so that is something i will change.

 



Can't wait to get some feedback so i can place my next order.

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Looks too short and maybe a little too slim? Looks awkward with your lower half - don't know how else to describe it.

post #4184 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchyeggroll View Post
 

 

I believe I was standing normally.  I didn't get fitted but had a friend measure me.  For the posture/back shape, I selected normal according to the pictures below.  My back does curve like how it does in the "Normal" picture.

 

 

I also emailed Black Lapel's Concierge for their "second opinion" and they replied:

 

 

Thanks for your input.

Have you tailor perform what they call the "collar tuck". Really, the incline you selected is incorrect. Your posture is not "hunched" or erect. Hunched is for those guys who are older with serious stoop. With a future purchase, choose normal in that option. The sleeve wrinkles are due more to incorrect pitch than them being too full. The wrinkling occurs horizontally. Slimming the sleeve occurs vertically. The wrinkles will still be there.

What else you can do is have a tailor open up the armholes and have them reduce the extra fullness behind the blades if you're after a cleaner fit. WHen it's finished to your preference, have the tailor take a full or half back measurement which you would provide to black lapel in the future. Depending on how their manufacturing is set up, you may not even be able to customize the half/full back measurement. In such a case you're forced to have it altered. Don't downsize any of your measurements to try to change the fit. Let your measures be what they are. With any MTM process, especially online, you're always going to deal with back end tweaks by a local tailor to do what can't be described to an asian tailor from your computer.

The shoulder width could probably be reduced slightly out of preference but not by much. The right sleeve length should be added to by about .25". Agree that the trouser length should be reduced. That is preference. Don't go by the number thye suggested. Just have a tailor fold it and look in the mirror.

Honestly, your friend didn't do a bad job measuring you for online MTM. It needs a few tweaks but I've seen worse.

post #4185 of 5335
Quote:
Originally Posted by svdkerkhof View Post

Hi,

I'm new to both this forum and to tailored clothing but i thought it was about time to start with both.

 


I ordered a MTM shirt from luxire and i'm very impressed with the workmanship.

 



The fit allover is allright (when taking in account that i figured out the measurements myself).
 

I was wondering if i could get some pointers from the experts on this forum.


xi6x.jpg

sei3.jpg

 



I wanted this shirt to be short so i could wear it casual, the next one wil be longer to wear as a dress shirt.

 


The sleeves are a bit to big for my taste so that is something i will change.

 



Can't wait to get some feedback so i can place my next order.

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Still too short to be worn casually but I suppose that's preference. Definitely need to relax or lower the armhole depth some or increase the chest of the shirt. Maybe a little of both. Sleeves that are slimmed require a higher armhole and therefore maybe harder to slim without the pulling effect across the chest.

Can luxire adjust for posture? If so, that needs to be correct. Something else you can do is take a measurement of your fullback from one armpit to the other. Add a little for ease since you're going no pleats and that would clean up across the back. Depending on how you stand or how much "shape" there is between your waist and hips will/should also factor into how long you get the shirt made and perhaps what has to be done to it on the back end. Shirts shouldn't have excessively curved side seams because it takes the fabric off grain and creates a lot of distortion. To counter this or adjust for more "shape" or closely fitted shirts for the slim/modern trend, darts need to be added. Personally, I add them myself and I do it right behind or in front of the side seams so that the natural size of my arm tends to hide the the dart from view. 

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