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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 275

post #4111 of 5135
Hi Matt, congrats 90%!
Just trim up the leg and maybe show pix again with the arms down and more light. One of the back please.
surely you must have an assistant to take a pix in your den?
post #4112 of 5135

Oh by the way, I'd like to ask if there's a way to minimize the effects of a short back without opening up the entire top of the coat, to fix this garment. I'd feel like I'm bothering my tailor because after all it was my fault for not standing correctly at the "fitting". I'd be happy if the bottom kicked out a bit less. Can it be corrected at the side seams somehow?

post #4113 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post
 

Oh by the way, I'd like to ask if there's a way to minimize the effects of a short back without opening up the entire top of the coat, to fix this garment. I'd feel like I'm bothering my tailor because after all it was my fault for not standing correctly at the "fitting". I'd be happy if the bottom kicked out a bit less. Can it be corrected at the side seams somehow?

As you know, the back kicks out because of the back balance being a bit short. So, even if you take it in at the side seams or any other seam, it will still kick out....it'll just be tighter.

The kick out is caused by tension starting at the top of the CB seam trying to travel over your blades with not enough total length. Despos' recommended fix of opening up the top, moving the back neckpoint etc is the best fix. Somehow, additional length has to find its way over your blades from the top. The shortness of the jacket itself has much less to do with the kickout than insufficient length at the top.

 

I do all MTM myself when it comes to 'custom' clothing. The rest of my business is alterations. I don't cut and sew bespoke like Despos. The importance of that is that there may or may not be a way to communicate what is needed to your tailor or whoever provided the MTM jacket to fix the balance issue in future garments. Even if there is a way, it might have to be communicated differently from one MTM maker to the other.

 

In other words, no one can exactly advise you as to what to tell your tailor to tell his MTM maker to do in order to fix future commissions.

post #4114 of 5135

The advanced fixes Despos has proposed are probably not doable (though I will try to communicate it), but there are options to drop both the fronts and the back from the shoulder when ordering. I guess that would at least provide some more fabric over the blades for a better result.

 

I think I will also try to get this jacket fixed even if it involves opening up the whole top. I like it way too much! My tailor would probably want to do it free of charge (he usually does that for his MTM), but since it was mostly my fault, I'll pay for it, I don't care. I just hope there's enough allowance at the shoulder seams to drop the back a little...

 

He does bespoke, so I think he's competent enough to do it, more so if I pay extra for it.

 

Thank you :)

post #4115 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

the guy on the right has shoulders that are more sloped which is what you're referring to. A tailor can have something like that made, but if your shoulders are more square than sloped it's not something you can or should do. 
What you can do is have a jacket made with little to no construction in the shoulder or perhaps a pagoda shoulder to create the illusion of slope for flattery but it's not an operation every tailor has the skill to accomplish.

That's what I thought - many thanks.
post #4116 of 5135

These are my first (online) MTM pants (basically just took a pair of well/fitting ones for measurement). As they have no belt loops the fit around the waist is even more important and I definitely need to have them altered there. Otherwise, I have very little experience with the fit of pants so would appreciate any comments on what I can do to have them altered and how to get the specs right for my next pair.

 

post #4117 of 5135

Gentleman,

 

I would greatly your help in adjusting my measurements for 'Round-2' of a ModernTailor MTM shirt. At 6'4" and 180 lbs, OTR shirts have always been too bulky for my thin frame (I felt like I was a twin mattress in a king-size sheet). This is my first MTM shirt (per recommendations on this site, thank you btw), and it was basically a frankestein of measurements I took from various different shirts. It fits better than any shirt I've owned, but is still far from perfect.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

A few targeted questions I have:

 

1) The horizontal pucker/fold below front of collar (visible in front and side view zooms) - what is causing it, how do I get rid of it?

2) Diagonal fold lines from lower pectoral toward side of waist - what is causing, how do I get rid of it?

 

3) Fold lines on sleeve near armpit -  what is causing, how do I get rid of it?

 

4) (side view) The fold behind my shoulder, at the rear of the deltoid - what is causing, how do I get rid of it?

 

5) Yoke and shoulder seam correct? Sleeve length correct?

 

6) Any other advice regarding fit.  Again, this shirt is a Frankenstein of measurements.  Please glance again at the pictures and let me know if there is anything I should alter for Round 2.

 

 

Regards,

Erik

post #4118 of 5135
Looking for some advice on these pants I picked up recently. They were altered by the previous owner, and I clearly need some alterations to make them work for me.







These are tagged 36 and I am generally a 34 and the waist fits fairly comfortably, so I believe they have been taken in at the waist and they have been tapered or slimmed all through the leg quite a bit.

I'm especially interested in figuring out how to clean up the seat, assuming it can be.

In case it's relevant they are a wool/cashmere blend PRL by Corneliani.
post #4119 of 5135

What do you think of the fit of this SC, apart from the sleeves, which need a little trim?

 

post #4120 of 5135

I got this suit from WW Chan and would appreciate some feedback. The main issues that I can see are:

 

- back of the jacket needs to be tidied up but not sure how to suggest this

- something wrong with the arm hole from the back? They are quite high and said that a higher armhole would be uncomfortable.

- jacket is a 3/2 roll but the lapel roll goes to the first button not the second 

- button stance is too high which I dont like but understand this cant be fixed

 

The trousers I am pretty happy with (I wore these all day so are a bit wrinkled). I only had time for 2 fittings so will send back for any adjustments.

Warning: Spoiler! - (Click to show)

 

 

 

post #4121 of 5135
Hey everyone.

So I returned the baumler suit and I decided I might get this tombolini one instead!

What do you think needs to be done to this jacket, I want a slim well tailored look.

Thanks

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post #4122 of 5135
@ayog: that jacket is at least one size too big. Look at the divots at top of sleeve head because shoulders extend too far.
post #4123 of 5135
I posted earlier, and someone suggested more detailed images. I'm trying to decide which (if any) of these jackets is a good fit and/or what i'd need to have done to make any of them work. Sorry--I'm useless at this.

Jacket1:




Jacket2:


Jacket3:


post #4124 of 5135
.
Edited by Flyswatter - 11/23/13 at 10:52pm
post #4125 of 5135
Hello Gentleman

I am wondering how you feel about the length of this sport coat. I realize there are some tweaks to be made to the back. I am 5'4" ~138lbs so jackets tend to be long on me. This is an unstructured jacket from Southwick in 37XS.

For comparison I have included a few photos of me in a navy work suit. It is 3/4" longer in the back.

Thanks for any insight.

Sport coat in question:


AppleMark



Longer jacket for comparison:


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