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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 273

post #4081 of 5151

Hi all,

 

Please critique my fit.

 

I've had the pants hemmed, arms shortened and neck roll removed. The shoulders don't seem to fit, could this have happened during the removal of the neck roll alteration? It's like only the front of my shoulders are touching the fabric. Also seems to be a tiny bit of neckroll left, I guess I should complain?

 

Is the jacket too long though? (I'm 5'7")

 

 

 

 

Thank you soo much!!

post #4082 of 5151
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

New jacket, pleas excuse the pants (I lost a bit of weight and considering getting the waist taken in as they currently droop down throughout the day). Any suggestions before going in this week for alterations?

Front:
10521024774_79531c2a48_b.jpg

Alt shot: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
10521208293_e0bf9744dc_b.jpg

Back:
10521023594_2d56e64460_b.jpg

Alt. shot: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
10521204373_666898089f_b.jpg

Right side:
10521000386_49f485eda3_b.jpg

Alt. shot: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
10521006636_9ea5502fe0_b.jpg

Left side:
10521026324_0336c5a797_b.jpg

Alt. shot: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
10521022164_1181095f9e_b.jpg

I got the jacket back and due to the working button cuffs and being brain dead I forgot to ask for adjustments of the sleeve from the shoulder. Now I don't know whether the shop I worked with could have done it, regardless, I got the jacket back and now the left sleeve is shorter and for the most part is balanced with the right. However, the result is the cuff buttons being very close to the sleeve hem (approx. 1 to 3 cm) on the left sleeve. Needless to say, the right sleeve and left sleeve when inspected closely are quite off.

Question for the tailors: I cannot tell for sure whether the tailor I worked with trimmed the sleeve hem, or rolled it up then stitched the extra fabric down. Which is the normal/universal practice? I am hoping it is the latter as I can still salvage the sleeve and go somewhere else to have it adjusted from the shoulder and sleeve hem let back out. Right now it is not noticeable and both shirt sleeves show equally. It just bugs me since I know.

TIA Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Thanks in advance
post #4083 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post


I haven't tried Black Lapel, but they seem to have a pretty good rep and I believe if you are in the NYC area, you can get measured in person, by one of their tailors or senior staff. Definitely do NOT get working cuffs on your first suit. If you really want them, get the suit with unfinished sleeves and pay the extra $50-$80 to get working cuffs finished locally. I think for Indochino, you ask for unfinished uncuffs and use your $75 alteration credit to get them finished. Maybe Black Lapel has the same thing.

BTW, as a reference point, what is the shoulder measurement of the Macy's suit you have right now? Again this is one of the most important measurements to get right.

 

The shoulder measurement on the Macy's suit is 17.5" from seam to seam at the top of the spine.  This was measured with the jacket on.  Not sure if this is needed but if I included the padding part that sticks out past the seam, it is 18.25".  My actual shoulder measurement is 17".  

 

Also, is it possible to use the current Macy's suit as a reference to find the correct suit sleeve length?  I folded in the suit sleeves to show around 1/4" to 1/2" shirt sleeve. I measured the suit sleeve after doing this and got 22". My sleeve length when I measured using a dress shirt was also 22".  I had my shirt sleeve end at my wrist where my hand began.  So these measurements seem to match up.  I'm not sure if the suit being wider in the shoulders affects the sleeve length.  

 

I'm just wondering if this way works but I'll probably get non-working cuffs to be on the safe side.  

 

Thanks.

post #4084 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander Scriabin View Post

Thanks for the feedback OTCtailor. I agree about sloping the shoulders. Roughly how much would you specify? 2cm for the right and 1.5cm for the left? More? And yes, I generally am a little head forward but I'm not sure KW has an easy default measurement to deal with that. Any thoughts?

Do you think their length measurements are sufficient?




If you see no gaping at the collar and find that the test suit hugs your neck then that may mean you don't need the head fwd adj. however if the vents kick out and the fronts spread open like an A when unbuttoned then ask for it. There may not be a measurement available but they should be able to adjust.
I don't know what those cm adjustments for the slope shoulders mean. I use a Perkins device for this almost just for reference. The rest is by eyeball. You can probably get away with a pretty good slope in both shoulders. That I've discovered, most folks benefit from sloping the shoulders of the jacket more so than less. In your case, most def.
post #4085 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Is this a fix for someone that needs more space at the seat?

No. That is forward hips/flat seat.
Almost the opposite fix for more space in the seat.
post #4086 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchyeggroll View Post

The shoulder measurement on the Macy's suit is 17.5" from seam to seam at the top of the spine.  This was measured with the jacket on.  Not sure if this is needed but if I included the padding part that sticks out past the seam, it is 18.25".  My actual shoulder measurement is 17".  

Also, is it possible to use the current Macy's suit as a reference to find the correct suit sleeve length?  I folded in the suit sleeves to show around 1/4" to 1/2" shirt sleeve. I measured the suit sleeve after doing this and got 22". My sleeve length when I measured using a dress shirt was also 22".  I had my shirt sleeve end at my wrist where my hand began.  So these measurements seem to match up.  I'm not sure if the suit being wider in the shoulders affects the sleeve length.  

I'm just wondering if this way works but I'll probably get non-working cuffs to be on the safe side.  

Thanks.

The way yo measure the p2p is def seam over the neck to seam. Have someone pull the shoulders in to experiment with a narrower measurement if unsure. Air on the side of caution when going narrower. Also, folding your jacket sleeves is a good way to measure them. It is how I measure often. Just make sure the person reading the tape is a)not moving the tape b) reading it at eye to sleeve cuff level. Your shirt sleeves should measure from center back down the arm. Leave the jacket off and cuffs unbuttoned. Measure right to the end of the cuff. Get a 2 button adjustable barrel cuff so you can choose to tighten the cuff on your wrist more or less.
post #4087 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post


No. That is forward hips/flat seat.
Almost the opposite fix for more space in the seat.

 

Thanks!

 

Do you have a diagram like that for getting more room at the seat?

post #4088 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I got the jacket back and due to the working button cuffs and being brain dead I forgot to ask for adjustments of the sleeve from the shoulder. Now I don't know whether the shop I worked with could have done it, regardless, I got the jacket back and now the left sleeve is shorter and for the most part is balanced with the right. However, the result is the cuff buttons being very close to the sleeve hem (approx. 1 to 3 cm) on the left sleeve. Needless to say, the right sleeve and left sleeve when inspected closely are quite off.

Question for the tailors: I cannot tell for sure whether the tailor I worked with trimmed the sleeve hem, or rolled it up then stitched the extra fabric down. Which is the normal/universal practice? I am hoping it is the latter as I can still salvage the sleeve and go somewhere else to have it adjusted from the shoulder and sleeve hem let back out. Right now it is not noticeable and both shirt sleeves show equally. It just bugs me since I know.

TIA Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Thanks in advance
Normal practice for working cuffs is to shorten from the shoulder. Depending on how the sleeve hem was originally made, it may have been possible to adjust it there but of course it will change how close those buttons are to the hem. Chances are it was just folded and stitched.
post #4089 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayog View Post

Hey everyone, 
I'm buying this suit and was wondering what alterations you could suggest I do.  I know a little bit about suits but very little about tailoring. 
The pants are fine all they need is a hem and maybe an inch tapering  
But the jacket is a bit harder for me to tell, here are some pics












The look I am going for is a well tailored slim look but not so much that I look like Russell Brand


Thanks in advance!

On the jacket, the shoulders may be too wide tho a bit hard to tell. The back itself is too wide and the shoulders are too square for your shoulders. There is also tightness at the seat of the jacket creating a kindof shelf. May not be entirely possibl to fix depending on fabric outlet available inside.
Obviously, sleeves are too long as well.
post #4090 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Thanks!

Do you have a diagram like that for getting more room at the seat?

Again, there's no cut and dry diagram. It all depends on what the body shows. More prominent seat may need room at the hips, greater seat curve, slightly higher rise in back, extra room at the back fork etc. if the seat is low and prominent, that changes things more. If the posture is hip forward, backward, or normal, that can again change things. No one direct diagram or fix.
post #4091 of 5151


For those of you with the forward hips/sway back....when a trouser recut is done reflecting pattern adjustments that I posted in the diagram above, you can expect a result like this when done correctly. Only downside is that it will pull almost all the walking stride out of the leg and if the leg is slim, you'll feel it at the knee a bit when walking/sitting.
post #4092 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

OK, a trouser fit question. Trouser fit is still something of a black magic to me.

I have ordered a trial pair of pants before making a larger order, and they are not hanging cleanly from the back. They are bunching up under the seat. These are MTM (Luxire) so I want to know what to tell the tailor to adjust to resolve this as best as possible.

My first thought is to lower the rear rise by a good inch or so.

Apologies for all the wrinkles and such--these are right out of the box. They fit decently the rest of the way around, though I will probably widen out the leg a bit.

Many thanks for the help!

Wrinkly pants (Click to show)



OK, here is what I think I am going to change on these--let me know if you think this will resolve the issues in the back:
  • Increase hip front by .5" (mostly to deal with pleats opening up
  • Increase front rise by .25"
  • Decrease back rise by 1"
  • Increase thigh width by .25"
  • Increase knee width by .5"
  • Additional thigh increase of .5" only in the back
  • Increase length by .5" in the rear

Thoughts?
post #4093 of 5151
I've recently procured a Stephan Schneider blazer which fits except for sleeve length. It has functioning buttons, but they are hidden as in a hidden placket (see the middle row picture on the right at the link below). I know it is possible to shorten at the shoulder, but given the risk, couldn't I simply hem the sleeve in between two of the buttons, because the sleeve looks essentially button free when fastened anyway?

http://s243.photobucket.com/user/zarzeka/media/ss_blazer_aw_zps252b5642.jpg.html

Thanks!
post #4094 of 5151
So I just received this lbm 1911 jacket in size 48, Im usually a size 46 but since I got this NWT at 75% discount I had to buy it! So what do you think, is it worth taking it to the tailor or should I just sell it?

I need to have it taken in on the side/back and slightly shorten the sleeves, other than that it's just a tad too big in the shoulders. The back looks very clean however!



post #4095 of 5151
Quote:
Originally Posted by ayog View Post

Hey everyone, 
I'm buying this suit and was wondering what alterations you could suggest I do.  I know a little bit about suits but very little about tailoring. 
The pants are fine all they need is a hem and maybe an inch tapering  
But the jacket is a bit harder for me to tell, here are some pics












The look I am going for is a well tailored slim look but not so much that I look like Russell Brand


Thanks in advance!

The sleeves are long, too much shirt collar is showing in front, the waist is too tight, the upper back is too big, and (from the side) the shoulders are way off. Because of the last problem and the sheer number of problems, do not buy the suit or return it if it's already yours.
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