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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 267

post #3991 of 5374

Hi Gents, just wondering, I personally am rather slim so I opted to go for tapered pants at the tailor.

 

However I noticed that there is some bunching that happens at the back of my thighs, (these are VBC 120's) I'm guessing this is rather apparent with wool, or does the same happen with cotton and other materials too? Am I correct to say that the bunching is due to the pants being too slim? 

 

Also, for my next pair of pants, do you think I should ask for the pants to fall straighter at the back of my thighs, instead of asking the tailor to follow the contours of my leg? I do personally find the bunching at the back very very unsightly, otherwise I love the pants. Would having this "straighter" cut look weird as I plan to have no break on my pants.

 

Also, I find that after some hours of wear, the pants start to drop a little, so my no break pants become half break pants. Belts and suspenders aside, is this a fault on the part of the construction of the pants ie lack of a solid waistband / interlining?

 

Much thanks in advance. 

post #3992 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katt View Post

Hello! Need help with my Suitsupply Napoli suit, i am 172 cm and weigh 68 kgs, i've always felt that suits are a bit too long for me, and this is the first serious suit i've bought.


I have taken in the sides, shortened the sleeves and fixed the neck at a tailor. However, is it too long for me? I think my arms may a bit short compared to my body. The suit reached between end of thumb and end of pointing finger. 


Sorry for the bad pictures and everything, but i would be very happy with some help. Is the waist good? Should i shorten the jacket up to one inch?

 


















It is not too long. The pants probably are worn too low. The suit jacket's sleeves now probably are too short and the shirt's sleeves too long.
post #3993 of 5374
Katt I wear my suits a little on the longer side as well. I know everyone likes to wear a slightly shorter suit but I think longer is classier and elegant. I have shortened some of my suits a bit so they fit just right now.
post #3994 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post


It is not too long. The pants probably are worn too low. The suit jacket's sleeves now probably are too short and the shirt's sleeves too long.


Ah, i assure you that the sleeves are absolutely fucked up on the crappy pictures because i did something weird with my arms! Thanks!

post #3995 of 5374

So, I had a few custom shirts made; this was an in-person measurement and the shirts were made in Hong Kong. Overall, I'm pleased with the fit, but I'm a bit dissatisfied with how the open collar looks. The material, which I assume is broadcloth, just flops open and folds over itself, looking rather droopy. The material surrounding the buttons and button holes doesn't have any stiffness to it all; shouldn't it have interfacing? The more I look at it, the more irritating it is. I'm not sure I even want to wear the shirts.

 

 

post #3996 of 5374

Katt, the sleeves in the first picture you posted seem to be the right length but then in the last few photos the sleeves look way too short and the shirt sleeve a bit too long. Is the first photo taken before you shortened it?

post #3997 of 5374

New tailoring question. Here is an overcoat I'm thinking of buying online:

 

 

Their website lists the following measurements for a size 52: Shoulder width 47.7cm, sleeve length 66.5cm.

 

I measured my size 52 suit jackets and they appear to have exactly the same dimensions.

 

So if I want to wear this overcoat over my size 52 suits and jackets, should I size up to a 54? (48.9cm/67.5cm). Seems logical to me.

 

What I find weird is that the manufacturer hasn't built extra room into their "size 52". Is this normal?

post #3998 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

Katt, the sleeves in the first picture you posted seem to be the right length but then in the last few photos the sleeves look way too short and the shirt sleeve a bit too long. Is the first photo taken before you shortened it?


Nope, both are after tailoring, and it's the same suit and shirt, and i have the same weight in both pictures, so it's just a case of me taking photographs with a timer and therefore making weird poses and i didn't realise i made the arms look weird when i put the pics here... :butbut:

So right now i am a little worried that it is a bit too tight around the waist and that the bottom of the suit flairs on the back because of that? If so, i can ask my tailor to let it out a little.

Thanks!

post #3999 of 5374

Hey again,

 

I need some good fit advice for these pants. I've come to the conclusion that they are too small, but I can't really say why or where they are too small. Could you please help me analyze them for me?

 

They are completely unaltered and taken straight from the shops hanger.

 

Thanks! It is much appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #4000 of 5374
I had started a thread (http://www.styleforum.net/t/364869/suit-shoulder-creasing-revisited) for this question, but I might be more successful in getting advice here.

The issue:
I recently tried a local MTM suit maker and picked up the result a week ago. Things are generally OK with the exception of the shoulder/sleeve: From the front the shoulder looks relatively smooth, see the first photo. However, from the side one can see three horizontal creases which start at the back (where the sleeve is sewn into the armhole and ends somewhere close to the center of the cleeve. The interesting thing is that there is no tension on the fabric and no creasing in front half of the sleeve.

I obviously have searched the forum for threads on shoulder creasing of suits and found many very good explanations for the typical case that there is a horizontal crease from front to back, which I understand is caused by a should which is too thick for the jacked such that the armhole gets stretched. I cannot see that this would also be the reason behind "my" creases due to the lack of tension on the sleeve fabric.

Does anybody have an idea what causes this wrinkling and if/how this could be fixed?

Here are a few photos:

Front view (no issue visible from this side)


Side view with the creases marked with a red circle (I do not worry about any wrinkles further down the sleeve as they are caused by arm motion)


Rear view (again the creasing is visible on the left and right shoulder
[/quote]
post #4001 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Katt View Post
 

Hello! Need help with my Suitsupply Napoli suit, i am 172 cm and weigh 68 kgs, i've always felt that suits are a bit too long for me, and this is the first serious suit i've bought.

I have taken in the sides, shortened the sleeves and fixed the neck at a tailor. However, is it too long for me? I think my arms may a bit short compared to my body. The suit reached between end of thumb and end of pointing finger. 

Sorry for the bad pictures and everything, but i would be very happy with some help. Is the waist good? Should i shorten the jacket up to one inch?
 

 

The sleeves are short in proportion to the total jacket length. Doesn't mean it's too long on you but this is the problem with OTR suits when it comes to managing the length proportions from the body of the jacket to the length of the sleeves.

A similar thing happens with the pants where the rise is too high for a guy who has more torso than legs.

All in all it looks alright but if you did decide to shorten it up to an inch, it would still look ok but then you risk messing with the over proportions fixed into the length of the jacket.

post #4002 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xancatrius View Post
 

Hi Gents, just wondering, I personally am rather slim so I opted to go for tapered pants at the tailor.

 

However I noticed that there is some bunching that happens at the back of my thighs, (these are VBC 120's) I'm guessing this is rather apparent with wool, or does the same happen with cotton and other materials too? Am I correct to say that the bunching is due to the pants being too slim? 

 

Also, for my next pair of pants, do you think I should ask for the pants to fall straighter at the back of my thighs, instead of asking the tailor to follow the contours of my leg? I do personally find the bunching at the back very very unsightly, otherwise I love the pants. Would having this "straighter" cut look weird as I plan to have no break on my pants.

 

Also, I find that after some hours of wear, the pants start to drop a little, so my no break pants become half break pants. Belts and suspenders aside, is this a fault on the part of the construction of the pants ie lack of a solid waistband / interlining?

 

Much thanks in advance. 

The answer to this question could have to do with your posture or the way the trousers are cut or both. No one in this thread answering questions can do so without pictures.

post #4003 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

New tailoring question. Here is an overcoat I'm thinking of buying online:

 

 

Their website lists the following measurements for a size 52: Shoulder width 47.7cm, sleeve length 66.5cm.

 

I measured my size 52 suit jackets and they appear to have exactly the same dimensions.

 

So if I want to wear this overcoat over my size 52 suits and jackets, should I size up to a 54? (48.9cm/67.5cm). Seems logical to me.

 

What I find weird is that the manufacturer hasn't built extra room into their "size 52". Is this normal?

If you plan on actually wearing the coat over your suit, I'd size up. Custom overcoats are built with additional ease to accomodate wear over a suit IF that's the way the wearer chooses to wear it.

If you get it the bigger version you can also have a tailor nip the sides/sleeves etc if it's a little too blousy. It's the safer bet.

post #4004 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodog View Post
 

Hey again,

 

I need some good fit advice for these pants. I've come to the conclusion that they are too small, but I can't really say why or where they are too small. Could you please help me analyze them for me?

 

They are completely unaltered and taken straight from the shops hanger.

 

Thanks! It is much appreciated.

 

 

 

They look a little tight over the seat. Possibly need the back fork let out a bit, as well.

post #4005 of 5374
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE View Post

I had started a thread (http://www.styleforum.net/t/364869/suit-shoulder-creasing-revisited) for this question, but I might be more successful in getting advice here.

The issue:
I recently tried a local MTM suit maker and picked up the result a week ago. Things are generally OK with the exception of the shoulder/sleeve: From the front the shoulder looks relatively smooth, see the first photo. However, from the side one can see three horizontal creases which start at the back (where the sleeve is sewn into the armhole and ends somewhere close to the center of the cleeve. The interesting thing is that there is no tension on the fabric and no creasing in front half of the sleeve.

I obviously have searched the forum for threads on shoulder creasing of suits and found many very good explanations for the typical case that there is a horizontal crease from front to back, which I understand is caused by a should which is too thick for the jacked such that the armhole gets stretched. I cannot see that this would also be the reason behind "my" creases due to the lack of tension on the sleeve fabric.

Does anybody have an idea what causes this wrinkling and if/how this could be fixed?

Here are a few photos:

Front view (no issue visible from this side)


Side view with the creases marked with a red circle (I do not worry about any wrinkles further down the sleeve as they are caused by arm motion)


Rear view (again the creasing is visible on the left and right shoulder
[/quote]

Could be a pitch issue. Could be a not great sleeve pattern issue. Could be that they need to be hand pressed.

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