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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 264

post #3946 of 5056

I just received the following message from a manufacturer's eBay store, after inquiring about the shoulder width of a leather jacket:

 

Quote:
Thanks for inquiry. In true tailoring there is no shoulder:shoulder length as there is no straight shoulder seam. This pseudo-measurement is commonplace on eBay and among hobbyist "experts" but we're professionals. Please provide your height and weight for sizing recommendation.

 

Can any tailors comment? This seems completely at odds with how important shoulder fit is.

post #3947 of 5056
^^ Run...don't order from this eBay store.
post #3948 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcbrgs View Post
 

 

You have a flat seat, combined with trousers being too long, you need to adjust the rise and width of the back. 

 

Thank you for the feedback. It sounds like the flat seat may be an expensive alteration. Though I liked the suit, it seems I should look for another brand that better fits my lower half.

post #3949 of 5056

I don't know if this is the right thread to ask about tips, but I'll just try it.

 

I am doing online MTM, and I am thinking about purchasing a couple of new shirts, mainly in oxford cloths.

This is my last MTM order from Luxire, and it feels tight around the chest and the hips area, the sleeves are also a little bit short. What do I need to do? And how much is enough?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Do you see the wrinkles around the belly button area? What does cause that, and how do I prevent it from happening in my next order? The wrinkles become very visible especially when I sit down.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Here is the measurements for the shirt I am wearing:

 

Thanks in advance!

 

I am also ordering a pair of chinos, but my last chinos had a very low rise. The pants also had pocket flares. How do I increase the rise and remove the pocket flares without ruining the pants?

 

Here are the measurements:

Pants:  
Waist 15.5
Half hips 19
Hip front only 17
Front rise 9
Back rise 14.5
Thighs 11
Knee 8
Ankle opening 6.75
Inseam 27.5
Pant length 35.5

Edited by Dingusberry - 9/29/13 at 4:30pm
post #3950 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingusberry View Post


I am also ordering a pair of chinos, but my last chinos had a very low rise. The pants also had pocket flares. How do I increase the rise and remove the pocket flares without ruining the pants?

Here are the measurements:













Pants:  
Waist 15.5
Half hips 19
Hip front only 17
Front rise 9
Back rise 14.5
Thighs 11
Knee 8
Ankle opening 6.75
Inseam 27.5
Pant length 35.5

Try to post more pictures (including pants), overall the shirt looks too tight all-around except for the sleeves/bicep area and based on your measurements, your pants are too tight as well. Looks like you are a natural 31" waist which is the same as me, but your hip (seat) measurements are tiny (19+17=36). Even though I have a prominent seat, your hip/seat area is likely not that small and thus is causing the pocket flare. And indeed your rise/crotch measurement do seem too low and tight as well. Not sure how you would sit comfortably in these pants?

An overall loosing up of both shirt and pants is probably in order. How much, hard to tell...you need to remeasure and figure it out. I'm assuming you submitted body measurements and asked Luxire for a tight fit. My recommendation is send then measurements from a better fitting shirt and pants or even better send them the well fitting shirt/pants and copy the measurements from (that's what I did).
post #3951 of 5056

I'm seeking feedback for all who post and/or follow this thread:

 

I used to work for Astor & Black as a clothier but I was probably their only clothier/tailor hybrid.

 

I'm currently launching my own MTM brand using the same concept/fabrics/quality etc and usually don't use SF to market my business. I have a decent local clientele that does keep growing.

 

I'd like some feedback on whether or not an affiliate vendor-ship would be a welcome addition to the forum.

 

Ultimately, it would be MTM sold at a price between the online MTM (which is a crapshoot) and the 'big city' market prices (I'm not in a big city) also sold by a skilled [alterations] tailor, not just a salesperson. The only caveat is that, for the most part, I will only travel to or receive clients from NYC or Philly as I'm only 1.5hrs away from those two markets.

 

If you want to see my results with fittings etc just go browse thru the "A visit to Astor & Black" thread postings towards the end.

 

Please post or inbox your thoughts. Thanks.

post #3952 of 5056

Hello All,

 

First of all, this is my first post and couldn't find a better place to post this sort of things so here it is.  Also I have much respect for all the people on these forums - some great advice on here as I have been creeping for a while and learning a lot.

 

So I bought this shirt off of Modern Tailor and did my measurements off of a nice fitting shirt.  Overall my impressions were that it fit pretty well - better than ones I get from retailers certainly and the material didn't feel too bad.

 

My only concern is that the chest seems a bit bulky and creates ripples under the arms, also I don't like the size of the cuffs (I like a tighter cuff) and am unsure about the length of the sleeves.  Keep in mind that I am going for a slim fitting modern shirt and will eventually buy more dress and casual shirts.  Attached are some pictures.

 

Edit:  Actually looking back at these pics, it does seem a baggier than I'd like it to be, more so than a slim fitting shirt.  Thoughts?

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

post #3953 of 5056
You need some more room in the hips. See the wrinkling on your lower back? That it does it still while untucked tells me the hips are tight. Yep cuffs too big like you said. I'm sure the tailors will chime in on the more complicated issues such as the sleeve wrinkling.
post #3954 of 5056
Can a tailor increase hips on a pair of pants and is slant hem possible on cuffed pants? Thanks
post #3955 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rimark View Post
 

Hello All,

 

First of all, this is my first post and couldn't find a better place to post this sort of things so here it is.  Also I have much respect for all the people on these forums - some great advice on here as I have been creeping for a while and learning a lot.

 

So I bought this shirt off of Modern Tailor and did my measurements off of a nice fitting shirt.  Overall my impressions were that it fit pretty well - better than ones I get from retailers certainly and the material didn't feel too bad.

 

My only concern is that the chest seems a bit bulky and creates ripples under the arms, also I don't like the size of the cuffs (I like a tighter cuff) and am unsure about the length of the sleeves.  Keep in mind that I am going for a slim fitting modern shirt and will eventually buy more dress and casual shirts.  Attached are some pictures.

 

Edit:  Actually looking back at these pics, it does seem a baggier than I'd like it to be, more so than a slim fitting shirt.  Thoughts?

 

Thanks for any advice!

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

too tight around the hips. Probably not long enough. Shoulders on the shirt are more square than your and the fabric is collapsing over your shoulder slope. Can't really fix that on an existing/finished shirt...easily, that is.

post #3956 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Can a tailor increase hips on a pair of pants and is slant hem possible on cuffed pants? Thanks

 

can only increase directly at the hips if there is fabric there. Most RTW pants have little to no outlet there. Some custom trousers will have a little outlet there.

Slanted hem on cuffed trousers is possible but not easy to do.

post #3957 of 5056
Thanks
post #3958 of 5056

here is a pair of grey woollen flannel trousers which i have had some problems with.  some feedback on the fit and what should have been done to make them fit properly would be appreciated

my observations are as follows:

-the underside of the crutch feels a bit tight

-i have a large single fold of cloth in my lap when i site down

-both legs seem to ride up into the crutch when i walk

-there is a large fold along the side seam at the hight of the side pocket

- the pockets seem to jut out "wings"

- both cuffs seem to sit off the back of my heel

-feels tight on the the back of the calves

-feels very tight at the knee and front of thighs when i sit down.

 

 

 

post #3959 of 5056

Im hoping for some feedback on this recent MTM attempt. The suit's construction is very nice but im not very happy with the fit (the pants could probably be fixed, im especially concerned with the jacket's extra fabric through the shoulder blades and possible collar gap... hard to fix problems...). Im loathe to return to suit to the store but thats what im considering at this point. Could i get some advice on what to fix and whether its realistically worth it compared to just returning the garment?

 

Thank you very much for the help

 

 

 

 

 

post #3960 of 5056
Hey white fisk,

I don't see that much wrong with the suit. The button is a little high on your frame, but that's it.

Can't see any collar gap.
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