or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 263

post #3931 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottMC View Post
 

Recently bought this Howard Yount from a fellow SF member. Its an 85% cashmere 15% silk summer jacket, so I believe it has a very delicate drape, which causes more wrinkles/movement lines to be visible. What do you guys think of the fit OTR? (I like my shirt sleeves and jacket sleeves slightly shorter, because I like to see the shape of the wrist.)

 

Also, can anyone tell me what is causing the little bump on the right shoulder seam? Thanks.


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

It looks pretty snug.  It fits you like a glove and I don't mean that in a good way.  There's pulling at the top button and the button stance is super high.  I think too high to be flattering, but that's me.  The lapels appear to be bowing out a bit too.  The fabric looks nice and I love patch pockets.  I think this would look better on a smaller guy.    

post #3932 of 4755

I'm having trouble getting a jacket to fit properly. I bench press a couple times a week and have some chest development...I measure about 44 inches. The sales people and my tailor tell me I need a 44R, but the jackets all fit with this gap:

 

 

The gap fades as I go up in size and is gone by the time I reach 50. The problem seems to be that the chest material has difficulty negotiating around my left pec and I guess the larger sizes can start the direction change earlier. The salespeople and my tailor say there's nothing to be done.

 

What puzzles me is that a 44R is only about 48" in circumference, but my shirts that measure that are too tight...I was just recently measured for some custom shirts and the nice lady says they need to be 51.75". Wouldn't my jacket need to be about the same circumference? That would put me in the 48R territory. The lady wants to measure me for a MTM jacket, but I want to be convinced that will solve the problem. What it looks like is that I need the chest size of a 48 (or 50!), but the shoulder width of a 44. I just can't believe that.

 

Any thoughts?

post #3933 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Parker View Post

I'm having trouble getting a jacket to fit properly. I bench press a couple times a week and have some chest development...I measure about 44 inches. The sales people and my tailor tell me I need a 44R, but the jackets all fit with this gap:




The gap fades as I go up in size and is gone by the time I reach 50. The problem seems to be that the chest material has difficulty negotiating around my left pec and I guess the larger sizes can start the direction change earlier. The salespeople and my tailor say there's nothing to be done.

What puzzles me is that a 44R is only about 48" in circumference, but my shirts that measure that are too tight...I was just recently measured for some custom shirts and the nice lady says they need to be 51.75". Wouldn't my jacket need to be about the same circumference? That would put me in the 48R territory. The lady wants to measure me for a MTM jacket, but I want to be convinced that will solve the problem. What it looks like is that I need the chest size of a 48 (or 50!), but the shoulder width of a 44. I just can't believe that.

Any thoughts?

I suffer from having a very large bulge in my pants around the crotch area. Pants need to be a size 50 to fit at all but waist is size 33.
post #3934 of 4755
Quote:
 I suffer from having a very large bulge in my pants around the crotch area.

 

Photos of me have that effect on everybody, so don't worry about it.

post #3935 of 4755
Send me side, front, and back profile pics of you wearing a T-shirt in a PM and I'll give you some guidance in mtm. If you have a 44 chest, do not size up to a 48 off the rack. The fitting problems created everywhere else make it not worth it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Parker View Post

I'm having trouble getting a jacket to fit properly. I bench press a couple times a week and have some chest development...I measure about 44 inches. The sales people and my tailor tell me I need a 44R, but the jackets all fit with this gap:




The gap fades as I go up in size and is gone by the time I reach 50. The problem seems to be that the chest material has difficulty negotiating around my left pec and I guess the larger sizes can start the direction change earlier. The salespeople and my tailor say there's nothing to be done.

What puzzles me is that a 44R is only about 48" in circumference, but my shirts that measure that are too tight...I was just recently measured for some custom shirts and the nice lady says they need to be 51.75". Wouldn't my jacket need to be about the same circumference? That would put me in the 48R territory. The lady wants to measure me for a MTM jacket, but I want to be convinced that will solve the problem. What it looks like is that I need the chest size of a 48 (or 50!), but the shoulder width of a 44. I just can't believe that.

Any thoughts?
post #3936 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

It looks pretty snug.  It fits you like a glove and I don't mean that in a good way.  There's pulling at the top button and the button stance is super high.  I think too high to be flattering, but that's me.  The lapels appear to be bowing out a bit too.  The fabric looks nice and I love patch pockets.  I think this would look better on a smaller guy.    

 

 

   Thanks for the feedback. Do you think a tailor could take it out a little bit and/or adjust the button stance? I'm not sure what that involves...

   

   And is the snugness what is causing the right shoulder to have a bump? Perhaps the armhole is being stretched front to back?

  

   Thanks again.

post #3937 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Parker View Post
 

I'm having trouble getting a jacket to fit properly. I bench press a couple times a week and have some chest development...I measure about 44 inches. The sales people and my tailor tell me I need a 44R, but the jackets all fit with this gap:

 

 

The gap fades as I go up in size and is gone by the time I reach 50. The problem seems to be that the chest material has difficulty negotiating around my left pec and I guess the larger sizes can start the direction change earlier. The salespeople and my tailor say there's nothing to be done.

 

What puzzles me is that a 44R is only about 48" in circumference, but my shirts that measure that are too tight...I was just recently measured for some custom shirts and the nice lady says they need to be 51.75". Wouldn't my jacket need to be about the same circumference? That would put me in the 48R territory. The lady wants to measure me for a MTM jacket, but I want to be convinced that will solve the problem. What it looks like is that I need the chest size of a 48 (or 50!), but the shoulder width of a 44. I just can't believe that.

 

Any thoughts?

 

I have the same issue with off the rack suits. In my case, I have a rounded back and a forward (not quite stooped) posture. 

 

I have found a tailor who fixed it for me by letting out the back seam between the shoulders. On another suit, she also shortened the collar. on a third, she actually stitched the underside of the lapel roll. The back seam seems to fix it for me in most cases.

post #3938 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Send me side, front, and back profile pics of you wearing a T-shirt in a PM and I'll give you some guidance in mtm. If you have a 44 chest, do not size up to a 48 off the rack. The fitting problems created everywhere else make it not worth it.

 

It's really nice of you to help; agreed, nothing larger than a 44 is really going to work....shoulders are too wide. 19" works just about perfectly for me. Pics are sent.

post #3939 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebarne View Post
 

 

I have the same issue with off the rack suits. In my case, I have a rounded back and a forward (not quite stooped) posture. 

 

I have found a tailor who fixed it for me by letting out the back seam between the shoulders. On another suit, she also shortened the collar. on a third, she actually stitched the underside of the lapel roll. The back seam seems to fix it for me in most cases.

 

 

And this supports what I figured the problem to be: asymmetry from front to back. The circumference of the jacket is probably only relevant if the front side and backside are kind of the same size. If you have more body stuff on the back or more body stuff on the front, you won't have the material you need to cover it. That's why I was afraid of the MTM route; would the person making the measurements recognize this issue?

post #3940 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by shendo View Post
 

This Classic Napoli Dark Grey Plain from Suit Supply just came in today. The pictures below are of a 38R and I will be exchanging it for a 38L.

 

Other than the obvious (sleeves too short and trousers legs too long), what about the fit? To me, the shoulders, back, arms, and legs look good and don't seem to have any weird wrinkles or fabric pulling.

 

The 38L sleeves will have another inch (from 33.6 to 34.6) but I might still have them taken out another .5 inch for my long arms.

 

I personally don't mind the boxy look but may get the waist slightly suppressed for a more fitted shape. The trousers might look loose at the thigh but I'm afraid if the pants are too snug it will show off my chicken legs.

 

I appreciate any suggestions!

 

 

Hey Shendo! 

 

Aside from the issues you mentioned (pants length and jacket sleeves) you could take my following suggestions however you want but I'd like to try and give some feedback:

 

1. It's hard to see how well the pants fit with the jacket covering your backside, but the pants do indeed seem a bit loose at the thighs as well as the crotch. I would dare to say there's probably excess fabric on the back of your pants too but I can't see it too clearly. 

2. The waist could be brought in a bit more as you can see on your right side (left if looking at the photo), but that's also a combination of your right shoulder being a little more slanted down than your left shoulder, which causes that bunching up as well.

3. I personally think the back could be brought in a little bit as well as there is excess fabric on the left side when looking at the photo of your back. There is indeed a bit of excess fabric in a few various places but it depends how much you want to spend altering it. 

4. If you're on the slimmer side, you could slim down the suit sleeve as well. 

 

If you're concerned about the proportions of the jacket with the pants when altering, and you're not sure how it will look like even after it's been pinned, you could consider altering the jacket first and then having the pants altered in a way that will compliment the silhouette of your jacket.

post #3941 of 4755

Hey Scott,

 

The right bump is usually caused by a mix of either the shoulder being a bit too in, and/or the sleeve being tight for your arm. In your case it's a bit of both. What happens is the sleeve is pulled tight which causes that bump.

 

In addition, sometimes (but from what I see in the picture, not your case) it's the way an individual's arms hang when you are standing in your natural position, and if it does not match the natural position of your suit jacket's sleeve it can cause this problem as well. If your shift right arm when wearing the jacket either forward or backward and see that it reduces the bump, that means a tailor could remove the sleeve and either shift it backwards or forwards (but is quite costly to do)!

 

Lastly, on a lot of suits that involve people making them (particularly attaching the sleeves), the right shoulder usually has problems more than the left side because of how it is sewn. Something I've learned over the years from seeing other suits.

 

In response to your other questions, the button stance can't be changed as the buttons on your jacket have already be punched unfortunately. It is indeed a beautiful blue fabric!

 

Even if you prefer tight fitting suits, I would still have it loosened at the waist a bit, and also check to see if there is fabric left to loosen the sleeves a bit more, it might alleviate that dent on your right shoulder a little bit. 

post #3942 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

 

Hey Shendo! 

 

Aside from the issues you mentioned (pants length and jacket sleeves) you could take my following suggestions however you want but I'd like to try and give some feedback:

 

1. It's hard to see how well the pants fit with the jacket covering your backside, but the pants do indeed seem a bit loose at the thighs as well as the crotch. I would dare to say there's probably excess fabric on the back of your pants too but I can't see it too clearly. 

2. The waist could be brought in a bit more as you can see on your right side (left if looking at the photo), but that's also a combination of your right shoulder being a little more slanted down than your left shoulder, which causes that bunching up as well.

3. I personally think the back could be brought in a little bit as well as there is excess fabric on the left side when looking at the photo of your back. There is indeed a bit of excess fabric in a few various places but it depends how much you want to spend altering it. 

4. If you're on the slimmer side, you could slim down the suit sleeve as well. 

 

If you're concerned about the proportions of the jacket with the pants when altering, and you're not sure how it will look like even after it's been pinned, you could consider altering the jacket first and then having the pants altered in a way that will compliment the silhouette of your jacket.

 

Thanks for the feedback, Chris-ModaR.

 

I now see the excess fabric sagging the back of the thighs. I think it's because I have a flat rear and the suit was made for the average guy that actually has a backside. Maybe a tailor could remove that excess fabric in the seat?

 

There does seem to be excess fabric in various places: on the sides, back, and the sleeves. I'm rather thin so OTR clothing is usually baggy to varying degree.

 

I'm wondering if a MTM would be better for me? I like the suit but it seems I'll spend quite a bit altering it to fit my lanky build.

post #3943 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Parker View Post
 

 

 

And this supports what I figured the problem to be: asymmetry from front to back. The circumference of the jacket is probably only relevant if the front side and backside are kind of the same size. If you have more body stuff on the back or more body stuff on the front, you won't have the material you need to cover it. That's why I was afraid of the MTM route; would the person making the measurements recognize this issue?

It really depends on the maker.  Lambton Tailoring have updated their website now, but they used to have a direct link to a PDF version of their Technical Manual, which has a fairly comprehensive illustrated guide to the Block Variants and figurations that their system can handle.  Most of the options have moderate, severe and extreme checkboxes for long neck, short neck, head forward, round back, easy scye, sway back, erect stance, barrel chest, shoulder drop, forward shoulder, sleeve pitch, increase centre front, square back neck, and another seven for trousers.  The trouble comes when the vendors, and to a degree, even the system operators at the factory, aren't really entirely familiar with exactly how these figuration variations alter the construction of the coat.  With the right maker, and a knowledgeable vendor and system operator, MTM can achieve an excellent fit.

post #3944 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-ModaR View Post
 

Hey Scott,

 

The right bump is usually caused by a mix of either the shoulder being a bit too in, and/or the sleeve being tight for your arm. In your case it's a bit of both. What happens is the sleeve is pulled tight which causes that bump.

 

In addition, sometimes (but from what I see in the picture, not your case) it's the way an individual's arms hang when you are standing in your natural position, and if it does not match the natural position of your suit jacket's sleeve it can cause this problem as well. If your shift right arm when wearing the jacket either forward or backward and see that it reduces the bump, that means a tailor could remove the sleeve and either shift it backwards or forwards (but is quite costly to do)!

 

Lastly, on a lot of suits that involve people making them (particularly attaching the sleeves), the right shoulder usually has problems more than the left side because of how it is sewn. Something I've learned over the years from seeing other suits.

 

In response to your other questions, the button stance can't be changed as the buttons on your jacket have already be punched unfortunately. It is indeed a beautiful blue fabric!

 

Even if you prefer tight fitting suits, I would still have it loosened at the waist a bit, and also check to see if there is fabric left to loosen the sleeves a bit more, it might alleviate that dent on your right shoulder a little bit. 

  

   Thanks for the feedback Chris. Do you think it might be possible, because of the fact that there is so much room between the top and bottom button, to put a third button in between the top and

bottom buttons, and have the lapel repressed into a 3 roll 2? Just a wild idea I had.

post #3945 of 4755
Quote:
Originally Posted by shendo View Post
 

 

Thanks for the feedback, Chris-ModaR.

 

I now see the excess fabric sagging the back of the thighs. I think it's because I have a flat rear and the suit was made for the average guy that actually has a backside. Maybe a tailor could remove that excess fabric in the seat?

 

There does seem to be excess fabric in various places: on the sides, back, and the sleeves. I'm rather thin so OTR clothing is usually baggy to varying degree.

 

I'm wondering if a MTM would be better for me? I like the suit but it seems I'll spend quite a bit altering it to fit my lanky build.

 

You have a flat seat, combined with trousers being too long, you need to adjust the rise and width of the back. 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions