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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 260

post #3886 of 5056
So I purchased the Brooks Brothers tweed sport coat shown below from ebay. Though it's marked as a 41R (which I usually fit well in) it is longer than my other BB coats.

Granted I don't have a fit pic yet but I can say that with my hands at my sides in a relaxed cupped C position the jacket touches my finger tips. I prefer my jackets to reach the end of my thumb. What is the viability of having the jacket shortened a bit (3/4 of an inch?)? Is this a practical alteration? Will it completely throw off the button point appearance or will that not be blatantly noticeable?

Also the shoulder padding is fairly robust. Is it practical to have the padding reduced/softened?

I can try to get fit pics later but I should warn that my camera is bollocks. Thanks a lot for advice!


post #3887 of 5056

Just got this Light Charcoal Blue suit from BlackLapel as my first MTM suit. Would appreciate if someone could comment on the fit. I think the jacket fits ok but seems to be a bit tight when I button it and a bit tight around the armhole as I can feel a bit of pulling when extending my arms forward. I think the sleeves and maybe the jacket could use another half an inch. The pants seem to be too tight, I can barely fit in them and it is uncomfortably tight when I sit down. I think the pants could also be about half or full inch longer too. Any thoughts are appreciated. These are the measurements I used:

 

 

And some pics

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

 

Intel(R) IPP JPEG encoder [7.0.1041] - Jul 19 2011;

post #3888 of 5056

Looking for some suggestions on why my jacket has collar gap. Can a tailor make this collar fit more snug against my neck? Thanks in advance.

 

AppleMark

post #3889 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by DHD28 View Post

Looking for some suggestions on why my jacket has collar gap. Can a tailor make this collar fit more snug against my neck? Thanks in advance.

AppleMark

From my understanding and this is coming from someone without a tailoring background, the waist suppression is so tight that it is causing the collar gap and it is also due to the quality of the suit in terms of typical craftsmanship.
post #3890 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

it is too small. THat's the short version.

Easily too small. Just donate it, trade or sell it. Sorry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willin View Post

So I purchased the Brooks Brothers tweed sport coat shown below from ebay. Though it's marked as a 41R (which I usually fit well in) it is longer than my other BB coats.

Granted I don't have a fit pic yet but I can say that with my hands at my sides in a relaxed cupped C position the jacket touches my finger tips. I prefer my jackets to reach the end of my thumb. What is the viability of having the jacket shortened a bit (3/4 of an inch?)? Is this a practical alteration? Will it completely throw off the button point appearance or will that not be blatantly noticeable?

Also the shoulder padding is fairly robust. Is it practical to have the padding reduced/softened?

I can try to get fit pics later but I should warn that my camera is bollocks. Thanks a lot for advice!



I def. can see you taking an inch or so off and the jacket should look fine. I'm sure OTC or another professional tailor can comment but from my understanding the more vents = the higher it'll cost to shorten. My tailor typically charges $75 to shorten/lengthen. I've seen as high as $150 but that's at the most expensive and recognized tailor in LA (Wilshire's Tailor)

Keep in mind that a jacket is all about proportion. From the bottom to your button stance then to your neck area. Please advise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgill79 View Post

Hi! I tried asking this in ask and answer, but got no response. Wondering if anyone knows a good tailor in Austin? I can always Google but would trust personal experience first.

Thanks!

I heard Gassane's is very good from a friend of mine who works there. He did say that if you're a "modern" gentleman then ... you'll hear it from him. He's a traditionalist. A true sartorialist. But he'll do what ever needed to make sure his client is happy. Good luck
post #3891 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by k4lnamja View Post


I heard Gassane's is very good from a friend of mine who works there. He did say that if you're a "modern" gentleman then ... you'll hear it from him. He's a traditionalist. A true sartorialist. But he'll do what ever needed to make sure his client is happy. Good luck

Thanks very much. I appreciate that.
post #3892 of 5056

Being relatively new to this, I made my first real purchase last december just as Sid Mashburn went on closing sale for their FW line. I grabbed this lambswool tweed in a 38R, and it's a gorgeous piece... I'm still establishing a sense of how things ought to fit, though, so I wanted to see if this jacket was too dreadfully off. For OTR, I think it's actually a nice fit. Apologies for the picture assortment - I'm using pictures other people took at the last meetup plus one mirror shot with my only current camera, an old cell phone. Forgot my camera at home, stupidly. 

 

Anyways, I know it's short in the body, but I think it's two inches off and that's too much to fix, right? The back is a little messy, though that 'V' is accentuated by my posture in the picture. What specifically would cause those wrinkles? The sleeve is also a bit full in the bicep area. Is it worth getting anything altered, as this is pure OTR.

 

 

 

Thanks for your honesty - I'd love to know how to make better purchases going forward, and a 6'4''/skinny frame will require a good sense of fit...

post #3893 of 5056
^How it fits is all relative and really depends on what YOU like and etc.

Your body type is ... lean and long. If that's the case, why would you buy a jacket that makes you look shorter with that short jacket? Your "look" is more modern and the newer fashion fwd style is to have a shorter jacket like yours. With that said, you fit the bill. But if that's the look you aren't going for then, yes, you need a longer jacket. 2" is cutting it very very close. 1.5" is very doable and I don't think 1.5" would do that much by looking at your picture.

Do you need to slim the arms? Yeah, you do. Will you and should you? That also is all relative. If you are completely happy with the length then do what you need to do in order to make your jacket look as if it was made for you. If you are not, why spend more money that you are 80% in love with?

Once again, just my opinion
post #3894 of 5056

Looking for opinions on final fitting of latest commission. It's an 8oz super 160s from scabal

 

post #3895 of 5056
Thanks for your input, k4lnamja. Below are some (admittedly not ideal) pictures of me wearing the sport coat prior to any alterations. Again I think it could use about an inch off the length? Though it does appear that the top button point is dead center right now. Should I shorten it?

Also how viable is it to soften the shoulder padding? As of right now it is quite stiff.

Lastly, how viable is sleeve slimming? I think it could possible use some.

I may just get the waist suppressed and the sleeves shortened initially then see how it looks.

Bah - for some reason I can't post pictures. The links are below:



http://i.imgur.com/WKPn4hu.jpg
Edited by Willin - 9/20/13 at 11:06am
post #3896 of 5056

Looks nice over all.  Half back seems to be a little big as there is a little extra fabric at the sleeve seem  Right sleeve needs to be lengthened, you may want to consider reducing the length of those side vents by a couple inches to reduce the "popping".  When you have this problem you should have the vents stop at the most prominent point of the seat  so they will not open up on you.  I don't think you have a prominent seat, I think you are swayback so you need to tell the tailors to make the proper adjustments to account for that.  You may want to let out the girth a little to ease up the pull on the vents.

post #3897 of 5056

Looks nice over all.  Half back seems to be a little big as there is a little extra fabric at the sleeve seem  Right sleeve needs to be lengthened, you may want to consider reducing the length of those side vents by a couple inches to reduce the "popping".  When you have this problem you should have the vents stop at the most prominent point of the seat  so they will not open up on you.  I don't think you have a prominent seat, I think you are swayback so you need to tell the tailors to make the proper adjustments to account for that.  You may want to let out the girth a little to ease up the pull on the vents.

post #3898 of 5056
Sean,

Do you have any input on my fit? I am thinking about shortening the jacket. Sorry for the sub-par pic:

http://i.imgur.com/i3wVayV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WKPn4hu.jpg

Thanks for advice!
post #3899 of 5056

Hi Willin,

 

I would shorten the sleeves maybe quarter - half inch.  The body is too big so I would have it taken in.  I think the length is fine, don't think I would spend the money it would take to have it shortened.  I recommend that you have your shoes shined up, they are taking away from the whole outfit.  One of the most important advice I give my clients is to have your shoes always looking their best and shined/cleaned up.  Hope that helps.

post #3900 of 5056
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean McKee View Post

Hi Willin,

I would shorten the sleeves maybe quarter - half inch.  The body is too big so I would have it taken in.  I think the length is fine, don't think I would spend the money it would take to have it shortened.  I recommend that you have your shoes shined up, they are taking away from the whole outfit.  One of the most important advice I give my clients is to have your shoes always looking their best and shined/cleaned up.  Hope that helps.

Thanks, Sean. You're right - I've been lazy with shining my shoes! I'm surprised you could tell in that grainy photo, haha. As you said I think the length may be bearable. I'll post back here once the alterations are done!
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