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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 258

post #3856 of 5180
Is it possible to convert a patch breast pocket to a welt?

I brought my own fabric to the tailor...usually 2.5 meters is enough, but this time I brought windowpane, and there wasn't enough fabric to properly align the breast pocket, so the pocket is slightly askew. I'm thinking of seeing if I can get this converted to a welt pocket.
post #3857 of 5180

X-post from the Suitsupply thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by sinfjotli View Post
 

I have just received the Havana brown jacket from the fall collection (size EU48). What do you guys think of the fit? I am quite happy about it, though the buttoning point could be 1cm lower, and I am debating if I should tighten the waist a tiny bit. Thanks!

 

 

 
post #3858 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcbrgs View Post

Hi guys, I had popped in to my tailor to to try on my new suit, its almost finished, just needs pressing , trousers hemming, and button holes doing. Before that gets done just wondering if you think I can make any last minute improvements, or anyone has opinion on fit (waistcoat?)? The fabric is an 8oz super 150s from H&S, full canvas, MTM














I will comment on the waistcoat only.
The waistcoat has a serious balance issue. You can see that the neckpoint is pulling, there are diagonal drags in the chest and the waist placement does not reflect or fit where your waist is. Too much "air" between the garment and your body.
The shoulders should be opened and the fronts let down to where it will sit better on the body. Is there a dart in the front? If not you could use one, but if the pockets are in then it is too late.
Hard to see what else is going on with just a front picture.
post #3859 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinfjotli View Post
 

X-post from the Suitsupply thread:

 

The sleeves and body are on the short side for my taste, but it makes sense and looks good given your pant break and shirt sleeve length.  I'd vote against nipping the waist.  It already has a nice gentle curve to it from the shoulder into the waist into the hips.  Also, you might want to give yourself some room to wear layers underneath in the fall/winter.  

 

On a separate note, nice pants and shoes.  Where are they from? 

post #3860 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

 

The sleeves and body are on the short side for my taste, but it makes sense and looks good given your pant break and shirt sleeve length.  I'd vote against nipping the waist.  It already has a nice gentle curve to it from the shoulder into the waist into the hips.  Also, you might want to give yourself some room to wear layers underneath in the fall/winter.  

 

On a separate note, nice pants and shoes.  Where are they from? 

 

Thank you. I will think about the waist, I might just leave it as it is and have it tailored later if it bothers me. I agree that the overall length is about the minimum I could wear, but I thought that for a casual unstructured coat, it is good to be a little shorter.

 

 

The pants are Incotex, and the shoes are Barker Cardiff from their "handcrafted" collection.

post #3861 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcbrgs View Post

Hi guys, I had popped in to my tailor to to try on my new suit, its almost finished, just needs pressing , trousers hemming, and button holes doing. Before that gets done just wondering if you think I can make any last minute improvements, or anyone has opinion on fit (waistcoat?)? The fabric is an 8oz super 150s from H&S, full canvas, MTM














I agree with ttailor. The WC fronts are too short. Hopefully there's enough outlet at the shoulder to lengthen them. The jacket looks ok except it's a little over-suppressed. The pocket position is always alarmingly low which you can't fix.
The back of the trousers could look better but does your tailor actually want to do what is required there?
post #3862 of 5180
Did you guys notice the vest is pinned right over left?
post #3863 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttailor View Post


I will comment on the waistcoat only.
The waistcoat has a serious balance issue. You can see that the neckpoint is pulling, there are diagonal drags in the chest and the waist placement does not reflect or fit where your waist is. Too much "air" between the garment and your body.
The shoulders should be opened and the fronts let down to where it will sit better on the body. Is there a dart in the front? If not you could use one, but if the pockets are in then it is too late.
Hard to see what else is going on with just a front picture.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post


I agree with ttailor. The WC fronts are too short. Hopefully there's enough outlet at the shoulder to lengthen them. The jacket looks ok except it's a little over-suppressed. The pocket position is always alarmingly low which you can't fix.
The back of the trousers could look better but does your tailor actually want to do what is required there?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Did you guys notice the vest is pinned right over left?

 

Thanks for replies. I like the jacket, so think will get that buttoned/finished.

 

The WC was first fitting, its only basted on, and the front welts aren't set it's just some cloth hand tacked onto the garment. I think as everyone said it needs to be let out at shoulder, will try when next fitting

 

How would you improve trousers,would the fact tehy were unhemmed and too long cause the back to collapse as in photo?

post #3864 of 5180
How would you improve trousers,would the fact tehy were unhemmed and too long cause the back to collapse as in photo?
[/quote]

Yes and no. The hip forward posture presents a wide array of fitting problems that aren't easy to correct. It's a combination of adjusting the seat angle more straight while hollowing the seat curve while letting out the fork...adding length to the front rise. Taking length from the back rise. On bespoke, theres also considerable ironwork involved. Also, cleaning it up perfectly may inhibit movement a little especially on finished trousers.
post #3865 of 5180
Curious what the gentlemen in this thread think of this Paul Smith suit I just recently tried on. I haven't had any luck with any decent fitting OTR suit yet. I will obviously a) get the sleeves shortened (I was told it could be done from the top rather than the bottom of the sleeve) and b) the rolls around the neck area will be cleaned up (I was told this can be done easily).

I was assured by the salesman that the pulling I see on the back when the suit is buttoned is unavoidable. I have a prominent seat and apparently lordosis (I found this out from this thread). Don't know if I'm beind fed something to just pull the trigger.

Shoudl I walk away from this? My concern is the jacket seems a tad short, but my wife insists I need something of this short as I am not very tall (about 5'8), but at the same time I don't want this suit to be comical in length.

Any opinions or critique will help.



post #3866 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Is it possible to convert a patch breast pocket to a welt?

I brought my own fabric to the tailor...usually 2.5 meters is enough, but this time I brought windowpane, and there wasn't enough fabric to properly align the breast pocket, so the pocket is slightly askew. I'm thinking of seeing if I can get this converted to a welt pocket.

I suspect questions without pictures often get lost in the fray :blush:

 

So this is the pocket I was talking about:

 

post #3867 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I suspect questions without pictures often get lost in the fray blush.gif

So this is the pocket I was talking about:


Looks like you need to at least open the linings and canvass, cut the pocket and sew the welt on..Big project anyway...
post #3868 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Is it possible to convert a patch breast pocket to a welt?


I brought my own fabric to the tailor...usually 2.5 meters is enough, but this time I brought windowpane, and there wasn't enough fabric to properly align the breast pocket, so the pocket is slightly askew. I'm thinking of seeing if I can get this converted to a welt pocket.
I suspect questions without pictures often get lost in the fray blush.gif

So this is the pocket I was talking about:



2.5 m is more than enough cloth and they should have enough left to cut a new pocket, patch or welt, unless they threw out what was left over.

This breast pocket is very strange. Makes me think the chest was too large or draped too much and when they reduced the chest the pocket was too close to the sleeve so they just cut the edge of the pocket to reduce the width of the pocket but didn't bother shaping the lower curve as before. It's really unacceptable and you have a legitimate complaint.

I would recut the breast patch and lower the position by 1cm. To remake the breast patch or replace it with a welt pocket is harder due to the jacket being finished but it is possible. Maybe a bit easier to remake the patch and attach it by hand. To make the welt you have to cut thru the canvass. Either is doable and can be done. They shouldn't have finished the jacket and delivered it like this. They did a poor job of matching the pattern when they cut the pocket.
post #3869 of 5180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Did you guys notice the vest is pinned right over left?

Oh yes I did.
post #3870 of 5180
Hey everyone

This is a Zegna suit and I'm trying to figure out what are these little bumps near the lapel.

How do I fix/remedy this to make the suit look "normal"?

Thanks for all of your help!
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