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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 257

post #3841 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy_golfing View Post

First time in this thread I think! I'm hoping somebody can offer some help as to the below situation. I'd like to order some MTO pants from Luxire (affiliate here) and have some questions about altering the fit of a pair of pants I own. The pants I have and want to order are cotton khakis.

Please note: Measurements are based on http://custom.luxire.com/pages/pant-measurements

Here are the measurements on some pants I currently have, and I would like to tweak:

Have:
Half Waist: 15.25''
Half Hips (8'' below top of waistband): 19''
Half Hips Front (8'' below top of waistband): 17.25''
Pant Length: 39.25''
Inseam: 30.5''
Front Rise: 10.25''
Back Rise: 15''
Thigh: 11.5''
Knee (15'' below crotch): 8.5''
Leg Opening: 8''

Now here are the changes I would like to make:
1) Increase front rise by .5''
2) Increase the overall length of the pants by approximately .25''

Want:
Half Waist: 15.25''
Half Hips (8'' below top of waistband): 19''
Half Hips Front (8'' below top of waistband): 17.25''
Pant Length: 40.00''
Inseam: 30.75''
Front Rise: 10.75''
Back Rise: 15.5''

Thigh: 11.5''
Knee (15'' below crotch): 8.5''
Leg Opening: 8''

Do the measurements above make sense for the changes I would like to make?

Thanks for the help!!!

 

With all due respect, please post a picture or 3. The measurements barely tell half the story. The changes you're thinking about making don't make sense.

post #3842 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by easy_golfing View Post

First time in this thread I think! I'm hoping somebody can offer some help as to the below situation. I'd like to order some MTO pants from Luxire (affiliate here) and have some questions about altering the fit of a pair of pants I own. The pants I have and want to order are cotton khakis.


Please note: Measurements are based on http://custom.luxire.com/pages/pant-measurements


Here are the measurements on some pants I currently have, and I would like to tweak:

Have:

Half Waist: 15.25''

Half Hips (8'' below top of waistband): 19''

Half Hips Front (8'' below top of waistband): 17.25''

Pant Length: 39.25''

Inseam: 30.5''

Front Rise: 10.25''

Back Rise: 15''

Thigh: 11.5''

Knee (15'' below crotch): 8.5''

Leg Opening: 8''


Now here are the changes I would like to make:

1) Increase front rise by .5''

2) Increase the overall length of the pants by approximately .25''

Want:

Half Waist: 15.25''

Half Hips (8'' below top of waistband): 19''

Half Hips Front (8'' below top of waistband): 17.25''
Pant Length: 40.00''

Inseam: 30.75''

Front Rise: 10.75''

Back Rise: 15.5''


Thigh: 11.5''

Knee (15'' below crotch): 8.5''

Leg Opening: 8''


Do the measurements above make sense for the changes I would like to make?


Thanks for the help!!!

With all due respect, please post a picture or 3. The measurements barely tell half the story. The changes you're thinking about making don't make sense.

Sure, will get some pics up tonight. I'm curious though, why don't the changes make sense?
post #3843 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by easy_golfing View Post


Sure, will get some pics up tonight. I'm curious though, why don't the changes make sense?

Because this is not a maths problem?

post #3844 of 5055

What you've posted sounds right to me.  You want the waistband half an inch higher, and the bottoms a quarter of an inch longer, right?  I think that the reason that OTCtailor is saying that it doesn't make sense is because you've said that you want to increase the rise by half an inch, but then you've said that you want to increase the overall length (which would include that half inch increase) by only a quarter of an inch.

post #3845 of 5055

Well, the math is definitely not correct and why you'd want to raise the front rise only is where it may not make sense...which is why pics would help.

Raising the front rise is usually done when the figure has a fuller stomach and wishes to wear trousers up on the stomach. Those measures clearly don't indicate that.

Also, raising the front rise is sometimes necessary to fit a body with forward hips/swayback, but a slew of other adjustments is usually going to accompany that. Def need to see pics in order to answer the question anywhere close to accurate.

post #3846 of 5055

I got a suit made in Santiago recently, but I'm not sure what is going on with the back of the jacket.

 

I am going to take it back to the tailor to get it fixed, but I wanted to get some different opinions so I can assess what he says. Also I am not sure what is going on with the top of the right leg, any ideas?

 

Sorry the photos are not great, but I think they are sufficient to show what I am talking about.

 

 

Jacket buttoned:

 

Jacket unbuttoned:

post #3847 of 5055
Trousers v1

Trousers are just about 8" taper with slight break; are the two inseams balanced? I had the seamstress also length the back hem at an angle, about .5"

How can I make the shirt fit better (taking into consideration sitting in the office all day)?
post #3848 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Trousers v1

Trousers are just about 8" taper with slight break; are the two inseams balanced? I had the seamstress also length the back hem at an angle, about .5"

How can I make the shirt fit better (taking into consideration sitting in the office all day)?

 

Sway back, hip forward, and slightly bowlegged stance is nearly impossible to adjust for in an alterations context. Not strictly impossible, but way more work and $$ than you really want to invest in a pair of pants.Looks like the inseams are otherwise balanced. The shirt appears to have appropriate blousing to afford room to prevent placket from gaping open when sitting.

Shirts shouldn't fit like a glove. Best thing to do to get a shirt that fits really well is get it made that it's pretty long to stay tucked in so that everything falls best the way it's measured. If the shirts comes untucked, it will always blouse more.

post #3849 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by seven7 View Post
 

I got a suit made in Santiago recently, but I'm not sure what is going on with the back of the jacket.

 

I am going to take it back to the tailor to get it fixed, but I wanted to get some different opinions so I can assess what he says. Also I am not sure what is going on with the top of the right leg, any ideas?

 

Sorry the photos are not great, but I think they are sufficient to show what I am talking about.

 

 

Jacket buttoned:

 

Jacket unbuttoned:

 

The shoulder point to point measure may be a little too wide for you. That means the fullback will have those excess vertical rolls. You also may be possibly more erect in your posture than the garment is cut for. Hard to tell without a side profile photo.

post #3850 of 5055

Hi,

 

Long term lurker first time posting.  My long suit search is due to research on this site, and its my go-to resource.  Love it.

 

I've been looking for a new suit for over a month and had a lot of trouble.  My body is a pretty awkward size.  I'm 5'8 155 pounds, but with broad shoulders (bad posture), and short neck.  In addition, my pant size is a 32/30.  So while the correct suit jacket size (i've been fitted at two very respectable tailors) is 36 for my shoulders, the pants that often come with a 36 is way too tight, especially around the groin.

 

I've been to a myriad of both expensive and not-expensive store and really loved the quality and price point of this SuitSupply suit.  Its the Sienna fit and cost $630.  I tried it on and I think it would definetely need some alterations for the jacket (brought it a little, maybe adjust the sleeves) and also the pants (maybe let out the seat?)

 

My question is...how is the fit?  With the above alterations is a good deal?  Or would the adjustments cost so much that I should start looking at bespoke/MTM (I really like the quality of suitsupply...)

 

post #3851 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippie1jets View Post
 

Hi,

 

Long term lurker first time posting.  My long suit search is due to research on this site, and its my go-to resource.  Love it.

 

I've been looking for a new suit for over a month and had a lot of trouble.  My body is a pretty awkward size.  I'm 5'8 155 pounds, but with broad shoulders (bad posture), and short neck.  In addition, my pant size is a 32/30.  So while the correct suit jacket size (i've been fitted at two very respectable tailors) is 36 for my shoulders, the pants that often come with a 36 is way too tight, especially around the groin.

 

I've been to a myriad of both expensive and not-expensive store and really loved the quality and price point of this SuitSupply suit.  Its the Sienna fit and cost $630.  I tried it on and I think it would definetely need some alterations for the jacket (brought it a little, maybe adjust the sleeves) and also the pants (maybe let out the seat?)

 

My question is...how is the fit?  With the above alterations is a good deal?  Or would the adjustments cost so much that I should start looking at bespoke/MTM (I really like the quality of suitsupply...)

 

 

Go MTM and have something made that accomodates for your posture. This picture isn't great but it's obvious that there is signficant collar gapping which can be caused by a wide range of issues. It's not an easy fix and therefore quite expensive. Also, the sleeves are too long and suit supply notoriously makes jackets with working cuff sleeves which aren't easy to shorten. Couldn't directly quote a figure for total cost of alterations but I know from experience if you were my client I'd convince you to exchange the garment and come back to see me for something MTM. You'd get a better fit for the money spent.

post #3852 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Sway back, hip forward, and slightly bowlegged stance is nearly impossible to adjust for in an alterations context. Not strictly impossible, but way more work and $$ than you really want to invest in a pair of pants.Looks like the inseams are otherwise balanced. The shirt appears to have appropriate blousing to afford room to prevent placket from gaping open when sitting.
Shirts shouldn't fit like a glove. Best thing to do to get a shirt that fits really well is get it made that it's pretty long to stay tucked in so that everything falls best the way it's measured. If the shirts comes untucked, it will always blouse more.

Thank you for the comment. It took me awhile to understand your first part, but I think you were critiquing my stance, which is my natural upright posture. Cannot do much about it as you said, and I am happy to hear that the inseam is balanced. I think it will drape nicer once I get the pants properly pressed. It will definitely serve as a good base pair moving forward. (I may consider 8.25" taper)

I am curious what you think of the proportions as the 8" taper was a byproduct of the previous 7.25" taper that someone pointed out exaggerated my wide hips. FWIW I do not think the seamstress adjusted for the thigh as well when going from 7.25" to 8". Does it appear like the pockets are flaring? Supposedly an indication that the seat is too tight. It is not at all uncomfortable otherwise, just more fitted.

Perhaps you cannot really tell the overall silhouette since I do not have a jacket on. In that case, I'll post an update at later time. Thanks, again!

edit: Not sure if you noticed my other photo of the front profile, but it is under a spoiler that you can click. shog[1].gif I am not bowlegged though, so, perhaps a bad stance during the photos.
post #3853 of 5055
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

 

The shoulder point to point measure may be a little too wide for you. That means the fullback will have those excess vertical rolls. You also may be possibly more erect in your posture than the garment is cut for. Hard to tell without a side profile photo.

 

The comments are much appreciated. I am going to see what the tailor says today.

post #3854 of 5055

hey there.

 

there is nothing necessarily to stop me getting a cotton aquascutum overcoat tailored so that it fits a little trimmer?

post #3855 of 5055

Hi guys, I had popped in to my tailor to to try on my new suit, its almost finished, just needs pressing , trousers hemming, and button holes doing. Before that gets done just wondering if you think I can make any last minute improvements, or anyone has opinion on fit (waistcoat?)? The fabric is an 8oz super 150s from H&S, full canvas, MTM

 

 

 

 

 

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