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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 256

post #3826 of 5194
For padded versus soft shoulders what hangers should be used respectively? I noticed that two of my suit jackets that are semi padded and that have not been worn for awhile (months) are experiencing a dip in the upper side of the shoulder, which I never noticed before. I am curious whether it is my hanger causing the problem. My jackets and coats in general with soft shoulders do not have this problem. It is just really odd seeing. I also gained weight and I would think all things considered my shoulders and arm upper would fill out the jacket better. As is the upper arm region (side of he shoulder ) slightly dips in a little. Initial impression was that shoulder too wide on the suit, hence, the padding is causing the dip since it is extending over my natural shoulder point more.

Edit:
I think my question got lost somewhere lol
But should I be more concerned about hanger type for padded jackets over soft/unstructured ones or make it a point to get some rounder/thicker width hangers? Currently using the slightly curved ones from ikea. They have not been a major problem and I like to think the problem with the jacket is twofold, hanger type and perhaps change in body/posture. Like I said all my soft shoulder unstructured jackets do not have this problem... Yet?

If you are curious to see before and after the initial photos should still be in the first or second page of this thread redface.gif I can get updated ones this weekend perhaps
Edited by gettoasty - 9/3/13 at 2:11am
post #3827 of 5194
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post
 

First and foremost, you really should take the time to have someone take better pics of front side and back with more lighting.

However....there is nothing incorrect about the shoulder slope. The creases we can kindof see under your armpits are not from incorrect shoulder slops (Sorry RDiaz).

Looks like you might be a little barrel chested with slightly more erect posture or there's tightness in the blades. Kinda hard to tell from pics.

If it's Su Misura that means "made for you" so it is probably someone else's MTM jacket and there's a ton of possibilities as far as how it was cut and whether or not extra padding was added to one shoulder. Better pics will help but you need to see an actual tailor because the issues may be far more complicated than can be accurately assessed here.

 

I am aware it's another gentleman's MTM jacket however the measurements were almost right on when I saw the ad and I figured I'd give it a shot. As the price of this + Alts would be well below a Su Misura for me it was my best option to get something this quality in my budget.


I am hoping these pictures do a better job.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by MZhammer - 9/3/13 at 1:44pm
post #3828 of 5194
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

For padded versus soft shoulders what hangers should be used respectively? I noticed that two of my suit jackets that are semi padded and that have not been worn for awhile (months) are experiencing a dip in the upper side of the shoulder, which I never noticed before. I am curious whether it is my hanger causing the problem. My jackets and coats in general with soft shoulders do not have this problem. It is just really odd seeing. I also gained weight and I would think all things considered my shoulders and arm upper would fill out the jacket better. As is the upper arm region (side of he shoulder ) slightly dips in a little. Initial impression was that shoulder too wide on the suit, hence, the padding is causing the dip since it is extending over my natural shoulder point more.

Edit:
I think my question got lost somewhere lol
But should I be more concerned about hanger type for padded jackets over soft/unstructured ones or make it a point to get some rounder/thicker width hangers? Currently using the slightly curved ones from ikea. They have not been a major problem and I like to think the problem with the jacket is twofold, hanger type and perhaps change in body/posture. Like I said all my soft shoulder unstructured jackets do not have this problem... Yet?

If you are curious to see before and after the initial photos should still be in the first or second page of this thread redface.gif I can get updated ones this weekend perhaps

I was able to catch a little bit of sunlight so took some snappy shots this evening. I did some slight editing so you tailors can see the details better. I am most concerned about balance and fit (taking into consideration my body type). FWIW both jacket and pant are cheap experimentation until I get my ideal look dialed in.

I took two sets in different locations to give a better idea.

  1. It seems now that there is a lot of problems with the jacket besides the shoulder
  2. The trousers are also a new length and taper I am experimenting with. Ideally both hems should look like the left side, which sits nicely on the shoe. Can I get the benefit of the doubt that the right shoe lace is causing a disgusting looking break in the pant? The seamstress tried to really balance the two sides of the pants as I have a higher right hip. I am trying to aim for a slim no break fit.


I have to say the two profile photos are the best shots, and if the shoulders fit better is my ideal "look." I like the clean hem of the pant to shoe. Front and back photos are just obscene redface.gif


I am really hoping the right shoe lace is causing the right hem to float like this
9666908635_fe5371e053_c.jpg
Warning: Alternative Look! (Click to show)
You can see is this photo that both hems are and respective laces are causing a break. Anyone care to chime in how to settle shoelaces better?
9670140042_7f46ba0d33_c.jpg
9670140234_b378a8b4bc_c.jpg

9670138822_ed1991ced3_c.jpg

9670139080_e553bf841a_c.jpg

Random action shots:
Another set:
Warning: Alternate Set! (Click to show)
9666909115_3e2f81962c_c.jpg

I lowered the contrast in this photo to reveal the back of the jacket more "clearly"
9670141256_8cb89c5c72_c.jpg

9666953255_e46815a82b_c.jpg

9670141706_b3c2fb7665_c.jpg
post #3829 of 5194
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I was able to catch a little bit of sunlight so took some snappy shots this evening. I did some slight editing so you tailors can see the details better. I am most concerned about balance and fit (taking into consideration my body type). FWIW both jacket and pant are cheap experimentation until I get my ideal look dialed in.

I took two sets in different locations to give a better idea.

  1. It seems now that there is a lot of problems with the jacket besides the shoulder
  2. The trousers are also a new length and taper I am experimenting with. Ideally both hems should look like the left side, which sits nicely on the shoe. Can I get the benefit of the doubt that the right shoe lace is causing a disgusting looking break in the pant? The seamstress tried to really balance the two sides of the pants as I have a higher right hip. I am trying to aim for a slim no break fit.


I have to say the two profile photos are the best shots, and if the shoulders fit better is my ideal "look." I like the clean hem of the pant to shoe. Front and back photos are just obscene redface.gif


I am really hoping the right shoe lace is causing the right hem to float like this
9666908635_fe5371e053_c.jpg
Warning: Alternative Look! (Click to show)
You can see is this photo that both hems are and respective laces are causing a break. Anyone care to chime in how to settle shoelaces better?
9670140042_7f46ba0d33_c.jpg
9670140234_b378a8b4bc_c.jpg

9670138822_ed1991ced3_c.jpg

9670139080_e553bf841a_c.jpg

Random action shots:
Another set:
Warning: Alternate Set! (Click to show)
9666909115_3e2f81962c_c.jpg

I lowered the contrast in this photo to reveal the back of the jacket more "clearly"
9670141256_8cb89c5c72_c.jpg

9666953255_e46815a82b_c.jpg

9670141706_b3c2fb7665_c.jpg

There are definitely some fit issues that I'll let the tailors address, but stylistically, the short trouser/jacket look just doesn't work for your body type. It's giving you a rather unflattering pear shaped silhouette and accentuates your wide hips. Also, given your registration date and post count, I'm surprised you're still trying to get your "ideal look dialed in."
post #3830 of 5194

I would like to ask about the fit of this Cottonwork shirt after it has been washed several times. Do you have any suggestions for improvement? I was thinking to ask to take it in the waist next time (1 inch or so). Anything else? Thank you.

 

 

 


 

Untucked pictures (Click to show)

 

 

 

post #3831 of 5194
This thread is amazing!

How can I tell if there is material in the sleeve of a suit jacket to let it out, without opening it up; it's an RLBL suit?
post #3832 of 5194
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

This thread is amazing!

How can I tell if there is material in the sleeve of a suit jacket to let it out, without opening it up; it's an RLBL suit?

Run your hands under the sleeve and try to detect an extra layer of material. It will usually end 1 or 2 inches from the opening.
post #3833 of 5194
Sorry, I was't very clear. I meant, how to tell if you can increase the circumference of the sleeves.
post #3834 of 5194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post

There are definitely some fit issues that I'll let the tailors address, but stylistically, the short trouser/jacket look just doesn't work for your body type. It's giving you a rather unflattering pear shaped silhouette and accentuates your wide hips. Also, given your registration date and post count, I'm surprised you're still trying to get your "ideal look dialed in."

Thank you for pointing this out. I see what you are talking about and TBH have been in denial. I am not sure if it there was a break in the pant whether it will help the visual proportions better.

The new fit is tapered to 7.25" -- I should go back to 8" with a slight break in the hem.
I am bit frustrated as I have another pair currently in the shop made to the same new specifications. Just tried calling in to see where they are in the progress out of desperation but got cut off.. lol frown.gif

Post count does not account for anything but FWIW I post majority of the time on SW&D. Thanks for the honest feedback.
post #3835 of 5194

Just bought a Sienna suit from SuitSupply, feedback on it would be great. First real suit for me. Had a few alterations done and this is the result. They said come back in if I want anything changing as I didn't get to try it on in the shop once the alterations had been made (had a train to catch). Suggestions please? Overall rating? (first attempt at attaching pictures so sorry if they are too big or small (or don't appear at all..)

 

Please let me know if I need to take more pictures as that isn't a problem. Thanks in advance! 

 

 

 

 

 

post #3836 of 5194
Hi,

Picked up the Claiborne Slim Fit per the Dappered recommendation/review: http://dappered.com/2013/08/the-best-under-200-suit-of-2013/

Wanted to get a fit check if I could. http://imgur.com/a/4IyY1

5'6", ~145lbs,

Claiborne Slim Fit
38s, 30x30 100% wool, poly lining

**sorry for the terribad image quality**
post #3837 of 5194
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Sorry, I was't very clear. I meant, how to tell if you can increase the circumference of the sleeves.
On most ready to wear, there isn't any outlet for this alteration.
post #3838 of 5194
It's possible that there is tension along the cb seam resulting from a slightly too short back balance. It's creating relatively minor cross drags under your arms. If there's other there, raising the collar could help but hard to say. For the most part I say the jacket looks good considering it wasn't "su misura"
The sleeve wrinkles are easy to fix for a good tailor. Just a pitch correction. All the flaws look pretty minor to me
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

I am aware it's another gentleman's MTM jacket however the measurements were almost right on when I saw the ad and I figured I'd give it a shot. As the price of this + Alts would be well below a Su Misura for me it was my best option to get something this quality in my budget.


I am hoping these pictures do a better job.


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)















post #3839 of 5194
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Def need a longer jacket and pants. Wouldn't go under 8" half cuff.

I was able to catch a little bit of sunlight so took some snappy shots this evening. I did some slight editing so you tailors can see the details better. I am most concerned about balance and fit (taking into consideration my body type). FWIW both jacket and pant are cheap experimentation until I get my ideal look dialed in.

I took two sets in different locations to give a better idea.

  1. It seems now that there is a lot of problems with the jacket besides the shoulder
  2. The trousers are also a new length and taper I am experimenting with. Ideally both hems should look like the left side, which sits nicely on the shoe. Can I get the benefit of the doubt that the right shoe lace is causing a disgusting looking break in the pant? The seamstress tried to really balance the two sides of the pants as I have a higher right hip. I am trying to aim for a slim no break fit.


I have to say the two profile photos are the best shots, and if the shoulders fit better is my ideal "look." I like the clean hem of the pant to shoe. Front and back photos are just obscene redface.gif


I am really hoping the right shoe lace is causing the right hem to float like this
9666908635_fe5371e053_c.jpg
Warning: Alternative Look! (Click to show)
You can see is this photo that both hems are and respective laces are causing a break. Anyone care to chime in how to settle shoelaces better?
9670140042_7f46ba0d33_c.jpg
9670140234_b378a8b4bc_c.jpg

9670138822_ed1991ced3_c.jpg

9670139080_e553bf841a_c.jpg

Random action shots:
Another set:
Warning: Alternate Set! (Click to show)
9666909115_3e2f81962c_c.jpg

I lowered the contrast in this photo to reveal the back of the jacket more "clearly"
9670141256_8cb89c5c72_c.jpg

9666953255_e46815a82b_c.jpg

9670141706_b3c2fb7665_c.jpg
post #3840 of 5194
First time in this thread I think! I'm hoping somebody can offer some help as to the below situation. I'd like to order some MTO pants from Luxire (affiliate here) and have some questions about altering the fit of a pair of pants I own. The pants I have and want to order are cotton khakis.

Please note: Measurements are based on http://custom.luxire.com/pages/pant-measurements

Here are the measurements on some pants I currently have, and I would like to tweak:

Have:
Half Waist: 15.25''
Half Hips (8'' below top of waistband): 19''
Half Hips Front (8'' below top of waistband): 17.25''
Pant Length: 39.25''
Inseam: 30.5''
Front Rise: 10.25''
Back Rise: 15''
Thigh: 11.5''
Knee (15'' below crotch): 8.5''
Leg Opening: 8''

Now here are the changes I would like to make:
1) Increase front rise by .5''
2) Increase the overall length of the pants by approximately .25''

Want:
Half Waist: 15.25''
Half Hips (8'' below top of waistband): 19''
Half Hips Front (8'' below top of waistband): 17.25''
Pant Length: 40.00''
Inseam: 30.75''
Front Rise: 10.75''
Back Rise: 15.5''

Thigh: 11.5''
Knee (15'' below crotch): 8.5''
Leg Opening: 8''

Do the measurements above make sense for the changes I would like to make?

Thanks for the help!!!
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