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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 253

post #3781 of 5186

Scuff-like damage on the shoulder of a suit. I've attached a large scale picture so that you can see the damaged spot. Please zoom if you would like a close up.

 

 

 

Repairable without being noticeable?

post #3782 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Scuff-like damage on the shoulder of a suit. I've attached a large scale picture so that you can see the damaged spot. Please zoom if you would like a close up.

 

 

 

Repairable without being noticeable?

Here is a close up of it

 

 Sorry for the double post, but for some reason I couldn't manage to edit my post. Is this repairable and is there any risk that the damage would develope further in the future?

 

Thank you in advance.

post #3783 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE View Post

DrunkenBuddha - regarding the shirts it would be good to know what you are aiming for: Fashionable slim? Classic?

Not going for a fashionable slim look so probably classic

post #3784 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by stgrim View Post

I've commissioned two pieces from Iris Tailor, the same outfit who dresses gshen of Vanda Fine Clothing, and would like to seek your fit feedback.
I'm satisfied with the fit of the jacket but experience severe rumpling for the pants, I'm unsure as to exact problem and how I should communicate a fix to my tailor.
 
My very first suit with them, a midnight blue Dormeuil 10Oz. For your critique:
 

 

 

 
Also tried on the baste for the new H. Lesser 8/9Oz suit, please ignore pant fit as it is far too tight and they will be loosening it for a fuller fit. Stomach bulge is due to shirt pooling in the front due to lack of belt:
 

 

 

There's an article about this on the Cutter and Tailor website.  I don't know if you'll be able to see it without registering as a member there:

 

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=472

 

You should notice that Sator may have slightly misunderstood the point of the article.  Ostinelli is suggesting that the problem, generally attributed to "prominent calves" is actually caused by a forward waist.

 

I'm not sure that it would be considered appropriate for you to show the article to your tailor, though.

post #3785 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by superfishy8 View Post

where are the tutorials?
go back click on classic mens wear, at the top of the page, see popular threads.
tutorials are listed there. scroll down to "foreward shoulders".
post #3786 of 5186

I have a hard time finding pants that fit me well.  All the pants in the photos need tailoring.  Most need to be lengthened or be let out in the waist.  I also want to use some as a model for a MTM pair.  I would really appreciate any input to fix several issues.  I've done some research and have some ideas, but not much.  

 

1) I have "prominent calves" and forward leaning hips.  I saw an article about that in this thread, but am not sure how to adjust on mtm garment.

2) My right hip is higher than my left.  I think this causes my pant hem to be higher on the right than the left and my right pant leg flares outward a bit.  This is most visible in the back shots.

3) My hips appear to be wide compared to my waist.  I think this leads to some pocket flare/gape.  Most of the pants aren't super tight in the waist, but could be let out a bit.  

4) The crease in my right pant leg is almost always misaligned.  It may have to do with my hip.  

5) I don't like all the creasing at the top of my thighs.  I don't think I have a prominent seat, but ...

 

Any recommendations will be appreciated.   

 

10 Pairs of Pants (Click to show)

 

Uniqlo Cotton

 

Incotex Cotton

 

J. Crew Moleskine 

 

Dockers Tan Linen

 

J. Crew Linen

 

Polo Grey Wool 

 

Incotex Silk/Linen

 

Polo Tan Wool

 

Dockers Brown Linen 

 

Incotex Linen 

 

post #3787 of 5186

About to get my second jacket from Kent Wang in a few weeks. The first one fits great but I believe it's a little short in the body and the button stance is too high. 

 

Red is just a line comparison from the arms, not sure how else to do it. You can see my button stance is pretty high compared, so is the body of my jacket. Would it be an alright idea to drop the stance 2CM and lengthen the body 3CM? (Blue is where I think my measurements would lay)

 

Or am I crazy and the jacket is fine?

 

post #3788 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

About to get my second jacket from Kent Wang in a few weeks. The first one fits great but I believe it's a little short in the body and the button stance is too high. 

 

Red is just a line comparison from the arms, not sure how else to do it. You can see my button stance is pretty high compared, so is the body of my jacket. Would it be an alright idea to drop the stance 2CM and lengthen the body 3CM? (Blue is where I think my measurements would lay)

 

Or am I crazy and the jacket is fine?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Yep.  I'm not sure about the numbers, but I would lengthen the jacket to the bottom of the thumb.  I usually like my button stance about an inch or two above the belly button.  I think 2 or 3 cm lower would be good.   

post #3789 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrunkenBuddha View Post

Hi can I get some feedback on the dress shirt and trouser fit?
Thanks













This shirt as well, thanks again
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







Fit isn't bad, per se. Could use darts in the back to give shape back there and reduce some of the fullness. Also, your shoulders are semi sloped and semi forward pitched. That causes those vertical rolls over the front of your shoulders. If the maker can adjust for that, it should improve the fit of future shirts. For now, I'd just get darts in the back. Messing with shoulders in a shirt is not worth it.
post #3790 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Here is a close up of it



 Sorry for the double post, but for some reason I couldn't manage to edit my post. Is this repairable and is there any risk that the damage would develope further in the future?

Thank you in advance.

Has to be rewoven which is expensive and def won't be invisible. For the most part, it really shouldn't continue fraying unless it is agitated.
post #3791 of 5186

Hi all, looking for feedback on two OTR suits I recently bought on the internet (I know, I know).  I know they won't be perfect, but mostly wondering if a little basic tailoring will give me a decent fit with either of these.  I haven't purchased a new suit since I was in college (and that's longer ago than I care to remember).  Looking for a trim, modern fit but not the really skinny/trendy thing. I need to be able to wear them in my conservative financial services workplace for meetings with clients.

Having a hard time finding a good fit as a lot of suits I've tried are too snug in the chest but too wide in the shoulders or the pants are too baggy.  I tried a couple 38's in stores but they are way too tight, I can barely get the jacket buttoned and it feels like a straightjacket.

 

I can return either one of these in the next few days if they won't work out. Thanks in advance!

 

1) Gray plaid  - Joseph Abboud Collection "slim" 40s -

I think the jacket on this one fits pretty well(?) but the pants are huge in the seat and thigh.  Can this be fixed?

 

 

 

 

2. Navy stripe - Versace Collection 50s -

I think overall fit is decent but maybe too large in the shoulders?  I thought the days of these huge shoulder pads had ended but seems like a lot of makers are still using them.

 

 

 

post #3792 of 5186
zargoz:

Without commenting on anything else, I would say return both, only based on the stance aka buttoning position. They're both really high, especially on the Abboud. As a result, the ensemble's balance is completely thrown off. You appear to be a pretty tall fellow, but those jackets make your dimensions look disproportionate. Moving a buttonhole clearly can't be fixed by a tailor.

Return them, and try looking for jackets that have a lower buttoning point such that it creates a deeper V. It'll make you look broader, as opposed to now, where you look a bit scrunched up.
post #3793 of 5186

nvm


Edited by theh00d - 8/26/13 at 12:02am
post #3794 of 5186
Was it an mtm shirt? If so, have your waist and hips taken in for the next order. You could have the darts taken in more, or have the seams opened, but it's generally not worth it for a shirt.

It also looks like you're wearing it straight out of the packaging. Give it a wash and iron, it should shrink down a touch.
post #3795 of 5186
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post

I have a hard time finding pants that fit me well.  All the pants in the photos need tailoring.  Most need to be lengthened or be let out in the waist.  I also want to use some as a model for a MTM pair.  I would really appreciate any input to fix several issues.  I've done some research and have some ideas, but not much.  

 

1) I have "prominent calves" and forward leaning hips.  I saw an article about that in this thread, but am not sure how to adjust on mtm garment.

2) My right hip is higher than my left.  I think this causes my pant hem to be higher on the right than the left and my right pant leg flares outward a bit.  This is most visible in the back shots.

3) My hips appear to be wide compared to my waist.  I think this leads to some pocket flare/gape.  Most of the pants aren't super tight in the waist, but could be let out a bit.  

4) The crease in my right pant leg is almost always misaligned.  It may have to do with my hip.  

5) I don't like all the creasing at the top of my thighs.  I don't think I have a prominent seat, but ...

 

Any recommendations will be appreciated.   

 

10 Pairs of Pants (Click to show)

 

Uniqlo Cotton

 

Incotex Cotton

 

J. Crew Moleskine 

 

Dockers Tan Linen

 

J. Crew Linen

 

Polo Grey Wool 

 

Incotex Silk/Linen

 

Polo Tan Wool

 

Dockers Brown Linen 

 

Incotex Linen 

 

Bump.  Looking for a base model for a pair of MTM pants.  Any recommendations are appreciated.  

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