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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 247

post #3691 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

Alright, got my 2nd remake tuxedo pants from Indochino. Last one, not going to bother with another remake, but might take it to my local tailor to see if anything else can be done. I increased the seat measurement by 1" and knee measurement by 0.5" compared to the first remake from my previous post. If I compare this from the original I've added 1.5" to seat, 0.75" to thighs, and 1' to knees.

It stills looks to be a bit tight around the upper seat, however the lower seat and thighs are starting to be baggy, and the tuxedo stripe is still pulling back.

Question for our distinguished tailors, where do you consider the standard position for seat measurement to be taken? Right under the back pockets, an inch under, 2 inches under??? Well, guess what, I have measure about 4-5" under the pocket line before I get the lie flat x2 measurement that matches the Indochino "Pant Hips" measurement. Giving the pockets also lie about 3" under the bottom of the waistband, if I were trying to add 1" to my natural seat which lies about 1-2" below the pocket line, I would actually need to add about 2" to the Indochino seat measurement!! I'm skipping the drawings and geometry explanation, but do you guys know what I mean?

This is a pattern issue right??? Indochino's pants pattern has the natural seat lie 4-5" under the pocket line, while my natural seat lies only 1-2" below the pocket line. The travesty of doing squats and deadlifts gives me this perky prominent seat.

Is my own analysis right? If so anything my local tailor can do? May take in the lower seat by reducing the upper thigh?




Seat measure is always taken at the fullest part of the hips. Waist is where you wear them. The next consideration would obviously be the rise which can be standardized but also based on preference. I can't follow the pocket geometry you're talking about but it doesn't seem like indochino can adjust the rise correctly...or can they? Anyway, the problem you're having is a combination of seat angle and perhaps rise issue. Also, possible incorrectly shaped rear fork. A bit tough with the darkness of the pics to really tell. 

What's the difference in measure between your seat and waist? If it's +8 it's actually normal. +9 or higher is considered prominent. They may be cut correctly to your measurements but if it's incorrect seat angle etc, there's where you get that bagginess. Wish I could say it's that easy to fix but at this stage, it's really not. 

post #3692 of 5378

Hi, the tailors were very old fashioned, and my requests for a few alterations to slim down the fit didn't get much support! I was a lot younger then and probably didn't assert myself enough though.

 

Hopefully this time i can get them right.


Edited by clinteastwood - 8/2/13 at 12:12am
post #3693 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Seat measure is always taken at the fullest part of the hips. Waist is where you wear them. The next consideration would obviously be the rise which can be standardized but also based on preference. I can't follow the pocket geometry you're talking about but it doesn't seem like indochino can adjust the rise correctly...or can they? Anyway, the problem you're having is a combination of seat angle and perhaps rise issue. Also, possible incorrectly shaped rear fork. A bit tough with the darkness of the pics to really tell. 
What's the difference in measure between your seat and waist? If it's +8 it's actually normal. +9 or higher is considered prominent. They may be cut correctly to your measurements but if it's incorrect seat angle etc, there's where you get that bagginess. Wish I could say it's that easy to fix but at this stage, it's really not. 

Yes, I think another way to state the problem is by the rise and seat angle, neither of which Indochino is able (willing) to change. Nor are they able to use double darts to take in the waist to upper seat at a steeper angle. My body measurements are 31.5" waist 39.25" seat. However, I've already changed my garment measurements up to 41.75" seat. Therefore in theory I should have more than 2.5" room in the seat, but that is not the case, at least for my upper seat. I think it's mainly an issue with my seat angle, as I go from my waist to the fullest part of my seat which is at a relatively high (perky) point it creating a steep angle from vertical. While I am assuming their base pattern has the fullest part of the seat significantly lower down the pants (from my measurements about 4-5" below the back pocket line.

My assumption is changing the seat angle is something that requires more work to change in the pattern than just continually increasing the seat measurement and that is something Indochino can't accommodate due to their mass production restrictions. Hey not all of us have the same shape in the behinds right?

So end of the day though, anything else I can do to clean this up with my local tailor?
post #3694 of 5378

Quick tailor question: Is it worthwhile to buy a (discounted) OTR suit that would obviously need waist suppression to look good, or better to keep looking for one with a slimmer cut (the suit I'm referring to is a hickey freeman 'beacon,' which is a pretty full cut)?  I'll try to upload a photo, though it may be a challenge from this computer (SF is accessible, but all of the locally-hosted photos are blocked for some reason)...

post #3695 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by UTfootball747 View Post

Quick tailor question: Is it worthwhile to buy a (discounted) OTR suit that would obviously need waist suppression to look good, or better to keep looking for one with a slimmer cut (the suit I'm referring to is a hickey freeman 'beacon,' which is a pretty full cut)?  I'll try to upload a photo, though it may be a challenge from this computer (SF is accessible, but all of the locally-hosted photos are blocked for some reason)...

I'm not a tailor but can speak from experience. I think the question is it depends on the look and how much additional waist suppression are you looking for? From my experience, lazy (or cheap) alternation tailors will just take in the waist via the back center seam, so only to need to change one seam. This works OK, but mainly creates the curved silhouette around the back and is more difficult to discern from the front. Better ones, will take it in both side seams, which products results that are a bit more balance. For some serious waist suppression, I believe you may need to take in the front darts as well (if they exist). Not sure the aforementioned suit has a sack jacket (no front darts), or has darts already.

Do you know how much you want to take the waist in? pinch the waist until you get your desired suppression and measure the extra material and multiple by 2.
post #3696 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

Do you know how much you want to take the waist in? pinch the waist until you get your desired suppression and measure the extra material and multiple by 2.

 

Thanks for the reply.  Maybe not a ton; I just hate screwing with an expensive suit (well maybe not expensive for some, but even at 50% it's the most expensive one I've bought).  Here's a terrible mirror selfie, I'll have to have my partner take one for me this evening.  It maybe too dark (and sorry if I'm not doing this photo thing correctly): 

 

post #3697 of 5378

Hey guys,

Just received delivery of my first nice MTM suit. I'll be heading back next week to discuss alterations.

I'm pretty happy with most of it but very inexperienced. AFAIK the pants need to come down about an inch and button stance would be nice a little lower (though i assume this can't be fixed).

Anything else? do the sleeves need a fraction more length?

 

 

 

post #3698 of 5378


sorry if this has been posted before but does anyone know what's causing the wrinkles along the shoulder line?
post #3699 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by superfishy8 View Post
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


 


sorry if this has been posted before but does anyone know what's causing the wrinkles along the shoulder line?

 

Mmmm looks like one I had. The problem with mine was the canvas. I returned that SC and cancelled it. 

post #3700 of 5378
afraid I can't do that. already tailored. it was fine when I first tried it on and after it was tailored but after putting it on the hanger for awhile (proper one!) there were these wrinkles
post #3701 of 5378

hello gentlemen of SF,

 

I recently brought a RTW 2 button Jacket from Boglioli, it fits me very well at the shoulders, chest, waist and length. But the problem i have with the jacket is, whenever i walk, the jacket keeps on slipping/moving to the back. Hence causing it to have a hug gap at the back of the neck. please advice on how i should get it altered thank you.

post #3702 of 5378
Hi!

I have ordered a test shirt from an italian MTM shirt maker, and I have some rumples on my chest.

Is it too slim on the chest area? Or is it my posture that makes the rumples? Maybe too small armhole? Any suggestions on alterations for my next shirt?

Anything would be appreciated.

Sincerely Max


post #3703 of 5378

Very busy at the moment. Direct specific questions to my inbox please.

post #3704 of 5378

These two older sport coats which are totally unstructured.  I think I have somewhat sloping shoulders although not narrow (6'1/190 with 19.5" shoulder)

 

Thoughts on how these look and if I should always have at least a small bit of structure?

 

 

Flannel

 

 

Cotton

 

 

 

 

 

post #3705 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ergudmun View Post

Hi!

I have ordered a test shirt from an italian MTM shirt maker, and I have some rumples on my chest.

Is it too slim on the chest area? Or is it my posture that makes the rumples? Maybe too small armhole? Any suggestions on alterations for my next shirt?

Anything would be appreciated.

Sincerely Max
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



 

I definitely think it's the armhole.  They're too small.  If you think it's your posture, you can check by pushing your chest out and your shoulders back.  If that helps, it may be your posture.  I'd also add 1/4 to 1/2 inch across the shoulders and 1/4 to 1/2 inch to the sleeve length.  The chest, waist, and hips look good.  

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