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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 239

post #3571 of 5378
Considering waiting until the next trip to Cali. Maybe some good ones in LA or SD
post #3572 of 5378

Is it possible to take in the waist of a chalk striped jacket, or do the stripes make the alteration too complicated?  I tried on a Samuelsohn striped suit, Gable model, that fits precisely in the shoulders, but the waist has a bit too much space.

post #3573 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post

Can't really tell unless you button the jacket. While you're at it, slap on a tie so we can have a better look at the collar fit. Would also be good to get a shot of the back of the jacket.

The jacket looks a little short, especially against the sleeve length. Taking up the sleeve might help that.

Ok, got a few new pics. Should have maybe kept my shoes on in hindsight..dammit






post #3574 of 5378

Can I get feedback from you guys regarding the jacket length, shoulder style, and button stance?  

 

The picture on the right is Matt's Rubinacci (not me), so please look only at the left three.

 

Do any of these look best?  Should I go shorter?  Thank you.

 

*Click picture to enlarge

 

 

 

 


Edited by BillyMays - 7/15/13 at 9:28am
post #3575 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyMays View Post

Can I get feedback from you guys regarding the jacket length, shoulder style, and button stance?  

Do any of these look best?  Should I go shorter?  Thank you.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


I like the length and button stance of the first one the best, and the shoulders of the second one. All three shoulders look good though, IMO. #2 looks a bit tight at the waist, as it's pulling a bit at the button. Button stance of #3 is a bit high for my tastes, but the jacket still looks good overall.
post #3576 of 5378

Recently bought a new suit, and looking for advice/feedback on the fit and suggested alterations.  I'm thinking the sleeves are a little long, and it feels a bit loose in the midsection, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to stuff like this. Thanks style gurus!

 

 

post #3577 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Posting here before I complete my next order. Quoted myself from the KW page.

The back wrinkles may be fixed by a sway back adjustment on KW'S end with the pattern. Fixing it from a finished garment is generally not advisable. It would be shortening the whole back by completely ripping it from the shoulders and cutting the excess cloth off the top while maintaining the shoulder slope. Your whole posture is sway back. Your pants and everything need that pattern adjustment.
The interim fix would be letting out the back so there's very little shape at the waist back there. Then you suppress from the front and possibly make a new dart directly under the arm generally hidden from view. It will give shape to the front and sides while allowing drape over the hollow at your lower back. Either of those alterations truly require a competent hand. Based on your experience out there, I wouldn't attempt it again.
In the future I'm thinking about creating a mail order tailoring service where guys like you would ship your stuff in with pics. Lots of logistical nuances to work around but I think it'd be very welcome.
post #3578 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post


The back wrinkles may be fixed by a sway back adjustment on KW'S end with the pattern. Fixing it from a finished garment is generally not advisable. It would be shortening the whole back by completely ripping it from the shoulders and cutting the excess cloth off the top while maintaining the shoulder slope. Your whole posture is sway back. Your pants and everything need that pattern adjustment.
The interim fix would be letting out the back so there's very little shape at the waist back there. Then you suppress from the front and possibly make a new dart directly under the arm generally hidden from view. It will give shape to the front and sides while allowing drape over the hollow at your lower back. Either of those alterations truly require a competent hand. Based on your experience out there, I wouldn't attempt it again.
In the future I'm thinking about creating a mail order tailoring service where guys like you would ship your stuff in with pics. Lots of logistical nuances to work around but I think it'd be very welcome.

Kent and I went back and forth a bit about it. It's a half lined blazer so the back panel is fairly prone to bulky shirts. Someone mentioned it could be due to the shirt bunching up. Some of it is but not all of it. Here's a picture of me standing straight up with no button-up.

 

 

 

Still there but far far better. (edit: Can you see the wrinkles near the patch pockets that the tailor did? That's what I mentioned to you over PM/email. Sad..)

 

Improvements are slimming the sleeves as well as rotating them.

 

I would be more than happy to be your first customer. I think, if done right, it would be a great idea and business for you.

post #3579 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Kent and I went back and forth a bit about it. It's a half lined blazer so the back panel is fairly prone to bulky shirts. Someone mentioned it could be due to the shirt bunching up. Some of it is but not all of it. Here's a picture of me standing straight up with no button-up.







Still there but far far better. (edit: Can you see the wrinkles near the patch pockets that the tailor did? That's what I mentioned to you over PM/email. Sad..)

Improvements are slimming the sleeves as well as rotating them.

I would be more than happy to be your first customer. I think, if done right, it would be a great idea and business for you.
I do see the problems with the patch pockets. That's just lazy sloppy tailoring. Without the billowy shirt it is improved enough that I wouldn't suggest any major adjustments. The subtle folds near the blades could be reduced as well by carefully adjusting the cb seam and then the side seams possibly up into the armhole a little just to create a cleaner back. It wouldn't be absolutely necessary as the fit is certainly ok. More preference than anything. The patch pockets have to be half cut off and reattached to fit.
post #3580 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post


I do see the problems with the patch pockets. That's just lazy sloppy tailoring. Without the billowy shirt it is improved enough that I wouldn't suggest any major adjustments. The subtle folds near the blades could be reduced as well by carefully adjusting the cb seam and then the side seams possibly up into the armhole a little just to create a cleaner back. It wouldn't be absolutely necessary as the fit is certainly ok. More preference than anything. The patch pockets have to be half cut off and reattached to fit.

Yep, I figured they had to be cut off. They've got pick stitching which I kind of like (ironically, it's one of the only places I cared to keep it, and the next one won't have as much since I know it makes tailoring a pain). The tailor here didn't feel like doing it, even with extra money. That was the, "Really, bro? I mean, that's a pain in the ass. You know this shit ain't done by hand, right?" that I got from them. If you want to fix this, I'd be more than happy to send it.

 

I'll leave the back, it looks good enough to me. 

post #3581 of 5378
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Yep, I figured they had to be cut off. They've got pick stitching which I kind of like (ironically, it's one of the only places I cared to keep it, and the next one won't have as much since I know it makes tailoring a pain). The tailor here didn't feel like doing it, even with extra money. That was the, "Really, bro? I mean, that's a pain in the ass. You know this shit ain't done by hand, right?" that I got from them. If you want to fix this, I'd be more than happy to send it.

I'll leave the back, it looks good enough to me. 
Are they stitched straight thru the whole pocket onto the jacket front and then pic stitched? Can you take a closer pic of the pockets?
post #3582 of 5378

Not sure. Hopefully this helps.

 

 

 

post #3583 of 5378
Hey All,

I'm getting married in September and thus I need to finally break down and by my first suit. I'm totally new to the world of suiting, so this is all slightly overwhelming. I still haven't decided on what color to go with; I'm thinking maybe a medium grey or a navy.

I've decided to go with Kent Wang. I recently received my trial suit and had a chance to try it on and take some pics (spoilered at the end of this post d/t size). Since this is my first suit I was hoping for help with advice in regards to what alterations I should have done to get a great final product. I apologize if the pictures aren't top notch. If any other views or close-ups are needed I'd be happy to provide them. I'd greatly appreciate any advice or insight to help me to look fairly put together on my wedding day smile.gif

Here are some of the issues I've noticed thus far:

- The trouser pockets flair out
- The buttoning point might be slightly snug
- I'm wondering if the buttoning point needs to be lowered (my belly button is at the height of the lower button)
- Jacket probably needs to be lengthened some
- Trousers need to be shortened of course
- There is some definite bunching on my upper rear arms and in the small of my back (wondering what needs to be altered to fix these issues)
- Waist of the trousers probably needs to be let out slightly as it is somewhat snug
- I think I'd probably like to open the quarters of the jacket a bit

Thanks much!

MORE PICS! (Click to show)
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post #3584 of 5378
theclipper, there's far too much waist suppression in the jacket. It's hard to judge the pants with all of that fabric pooling at your ankles.
post #3585 of 5378

Alright, so I'm either gonna switch tailors or give my current one a last chance (highly unlikely, but who knows).

 

Based on the latest MTM coat I ordered, I photoshopped what I would do for the next commission; raised the armholes and the gorge, extended the shoulders, removed almost all shoulder padding, lowered the button stance and gave some shape to the waist.

 

Do you think the changes make the coat any better, or more flattering for that matter?

 

Thank you.

 

Left is before photoshop, right is after.

 

 

 

 

 

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