I'm 5'10 165 and it's a 40S Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
You need a regular length, not a short.
Thoughts from anyone on the length of this jacket? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
In this picture, it looks fine.
Moving this over from a separate thread...
Hey guys, just got a suit from a discount site for a really low price and was wondering how it fits. It is a Tommy Hilfiger trim fit, and the price was low enough to justify a good amount of tailoring. I am young guy and just starting a career where I need to wear a suit everyday, but have a very small budget right now, so I can't afford a fully-canvased bespoke suit, but still want to look good as I will be in court nearly everyday. I appreciate any thoughts or ideas on what should be done to make this suit fit better. Right now I just have the jacket on as the pants are currently un-hemmed. Thank you for your advice.
Hi all. I am in a terrible spot as I waited until very last minute to get a tuxedo for my wedding.
I can buy OTR or go bespoke. Unfortunately, the tailor I want would require much more time so the only bespoke tailor I could do would be Ercole in NY.
Based on that I was considering purchasing something cheaper and later on just going the bespoke route. However, after trying on several jackets, it seemed the only one that really fit was a Paul Stuart which cost 2,000 and is only marginally less than what I could get at Ercole so the advantage of buying something cheap now and getting exactly what I want from the tailor I want is lost. The other OTR tuxedos cost much less (around 500-600).
So now I come to you. I apologize as my friend has a very thick skull and when asking him to take photos at each store, he chose to do it in the worst way possible and at different angles (I tried to correct for that using Photoshop).
Given the limited view, could you kindly opine on the lengths, general fits, issues you see? My biggest issues are being short and also having very square shoulders.
Photo on left is Matt's Rubinacci (not me) so please opine on the other 3.
*Click on photo to enlarge
I also have included some photos of other suits I have with different jacket lengths and shoulder structures:
Please help. I am in a bit of a bind and the kindness of strangers will go a long way for me.
the back part of the suit jacket. The shoulder seams that bisects the jacket splits the front balance and back balance in half. So then, squaring the shoulders/shortening the back balance means opening up that said shoulder seam and squaring the slope of the shoulder line.
If you try to take too much more out of that dart you'll put that part of the fabric too much on the bias and it'll pucker and throw the top edge of the back balance off. Adding a second dart can be done but it's not gonna look perfect if the tailor doesn't take the back pockets apart...At least the top part of the welt. It should definitely be done that way, though. You could probably get by with just the one and take the waist into the seat in the rest. I doubt it would be much to really throw things off back there. A 10" difference from waist to seat is definitely prominent seat but 8" is normal so it's not extensive.
It's on the short side but it does cover your rear, so if the shorter length works for your proportions, it's fine. By looking at your pics, I'd say a longer jacket could make you look short-legged.