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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 237

post #3541 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1up View Post

I'm 5'10 165 and it's a 40S Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
, I think 38 would be too small.

Not sure what to do with the pants, I'm pretty big in the hips naturally, does it need to be tapered down the leg?










You need a regular length, not a short.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post

Thoughts from anyone on the length of this jacket? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


In this picture, it looks fine.
post #3542 of 5298

Is this new cotton linen sportcoat too short?  I know this is debatable and in general I am OK with my casual SCs being shorter but not sure this looks good

 

 

 

post #3543 of 5298
Can't really tell unless you button the jacket. While you're at it, slap on a tie so we can have a better look at the collar fit. Would also be good to get a shot of the back of the jacket.

The jacket looks a little short, especially against the sleeve length. Taking up the sleeve might help that.
post #3544 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post

Can't really tell unless you button the jacket. While you're at it, slap on a tie so we can have a better look at the collar fit. Would also be good to get a shot of the back of the jacket.

The jacket looks a little short, especially against the sleeve length. Taking up the sleeve might help that.

Umm, are you referring to the post directly before yours? 'Cause his jacket is buttoned...
post #3545 of 5298
I'm on my phone, didn't realise I wasn't on the last page. The response was to 1 up's post. My bad.
post #3546 of 5298

Moving this over from a separate thread...

 

Hey guys, just got a suit from a discount site for a really low price and was wondering how it fits. It is a Tommy Hilfiger trim fit, and the price was low enough to justify a good amount of tailoring. I am young guy and just starting a career where I need to wear a suit everyday, but have a very small budget right now, so I can't afford a fully-canvased bespoke suit, but still want to look good as I will be in court nearly everyday. I appreciate any thoughts or ideas on what should be done to make this suit fit better. Right now I just have the jacket on as the pants are currently un-hemmed. Thank you for your advice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #3547 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by eruannon View Post

Moving this over from a separate thread...

Hey guys, just got a suit from a discount site for a really low price and was wondering how it fits. It is a Tommy Hilfiger trim fit, and the price was low enough to justify a good amount of tailoring. I am young guy and just starting a career where I need to wear a suit everyday, but have a very small budget right now, so I can't afford a fully-canvased bespoke suit, but still want to look good as I will be in court nearly everyday. I appreciate any thoughts or ideas on what should be done to make this suit fit better. Right now I just have the jacket on as the pants are currently un-hemmed. Thank you for your advice.



















The jacket looks too short overall. You seem to be pretty tall. Put on the pants anyway and fold up the hem. The length and hem is the easiest thing to change anyway, so you want to see the fit along the seat and thighs and knees. Have pictures with just the pants as well. That said, the jacket being too short can't really be changed. Is what it is if this is what you can get for your budget.
post #3548 of 5298

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Edited by holyace2k2 - 7/15/13 at 10:15am
post #3549 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubits View Post

I'm on my phone, didn't realise I wasn't on the last page. The response was to 1 up's post. My bad.

Oh. smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

In this picture, it looks fine.

Thanks for the feedback. How 'bout from the front?


post #3550 of 5298
It looks very short from the front.
post #3551 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

It looks very short from the front.

You're not the first to say that it looks fine from the back but short from the front, which is odd, because the balance is fine. Hmm...
post #3552 of 5298

Hi all.  I am in a terrible spot as I waited until very last minute to get a tuxedo for my wedding.

 

I can buy OTR or go bespoke.  Unfortunately, the tailor I want would require much more time so the only bespoke tailor I could do would be Ercole in NY.  

 

Based on that I was considering purchasing something cheaper and later on just going the bespoke route.  However, after trying on several jackets, it seemed the only one that really fit was a Paul Stuart which cost 2,000 and is only marginally less than what I could get at Ercole so the advantage of buying something cheap now and getting exactly what I want from the tailor I want is lost. The other OTR tuxedos cost much less (around 500-600).

 

So now I come to you.  I apologize as my friend has a very thick skull and when asking him to take photos at each store, he chose to do it in the worst way possible and at different angles (I tried to correct for that using Photoshop).

 

Given the limited view, could you kindly opine on the lengths, general fits, issues you see?  My biggest issues are being short and also having very square shoulders.

 

Photo on left is Matt's Rubinacci (not me) so please opine on the other 3.

 

*Click on photo to enlarge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also have included some photos of other suits I have with different jacket lengths and shoulder structures:

 

 

 

 

 

Please help.  I am in a bit of a bind and the kindness of strangers will go a long way for me.


Edited by BillyMays - 7/15/13 at 9:39am
post #3553 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by jebarne View Post

[quote name="OTCtailor" url="/t/265924/The back balance must be squared off.
[/quote]

Can you explain what back balance is? I hear this about balance but not sure I understand it.

the back part of the suit jacket. The shoulder seams that bisects the jacket splits the front balance and back balance in half. So then, squaring the shoulders/shortening the back balance means opening up that said shoulder seam and squaring the slope of the shoulder line.

post #3554 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post


I guess it is possible to take in the excess with "deeper" folds on the single darts? But I have a feeling the shape around the seat might start looking triangular than rounded along the dart lines?

If you try to take too much more out of that dart you'll put that part of the fabric too much on the bias and it'll pucker and throw the top edge of the back balance off. Adding a second dart can be done but it's not gonna look perfect if the tailor doesn't take the back pockets apart...At least the top part of the welt. It should definitely be done that way, though. You could probably get by with just the one and take the waist into the seat in the rest. I doubt it would be much to really throw things off back there. A 10" difference from waist to seat is definitely prominent seat but 8" is normal so it's not extensive.

post #3555 of 5298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post


You're not the first to say that it looks fine from the back but short from the front, which is odd, because the balance is fine. Hmm...

It's on the short side but it does cover your rear, so if the shorter length works for your proportions, it's fine. By looking at your pics, I'd say a longer jacket could make you look short-legged.

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