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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 236

post #3526 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

The divots are occurring because the jacket appears tight across the shoulders and upper back area. That force applies a tug to the back of the armscye causing it to collapse creating a divot.

I wish more people would pay attention to this. 90% of the time divots disappear when you go larger on upper back / shoulder ease, not smaller.

But really, it's more about armscye shape, that's been talked about here too.

post #3527 of 5373

Hi, I've been a lurker on StyleForum for some time now and just signed up - hoping to become an active member of this community!

 

I could need some advice on this suit from BlackLapel. The fabric seems decent for the price (considering what I'd pay for an average RTW suit here in Switzerland) but I'm not sure about the fit...

 

http://www.blacklapel.com/suits/solid-cool-gray.html

 

I chose slim-fit and asked them to lower the button stance by 1":

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My opinion:

 

Trousers

  • length seems more or less fine (could be slightly shorter)
  • too wide around the thighs and bottom

Jacket

  • sleeves too long
  • shoulder are "bumpy"
  • armholes could be higher
  • end of lapel and button are too close together (don't know how to explain this...)

  • ...

 

 

 

What do you think of my first online MTM suit? Alterations? 

 

 

Thanks a lot!

post #3528 of 5373

Hello,

 

Could you please suggest alterations to this. This is my second suit. Thanks much.

I am little worried about the wrinkles on the sleeves.

More pictures (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #3529 of 5373

I bought this pure wool suit and the front looks not bad. However I found the back looks a bit funny. Are these wrinkles normal? or maybe the suit is faulty? does it worth going to a tailor? I paid  $200 so I might just return it if it costs too much to adjust.  any suggestions pls

.

 

 

 

 

post #3530 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by AceBoogie View Post

 

Opinions?

i posted this a while back but never got any responses so any critiques? The ass part looks weird but it's not like that in real life i think it was because i had to rush there to make it in time for the autotimer

Should the jacket be longer?

post #3531 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by SumOfSquares View Post

Hi, I've been a lurker on StyleForum for some time now and just signed up - hoping to become an active member of this community!

I could need some advice on this suit from BlackLapel. The fabric seems decent for the price (considering what I'd pay for an average RTW suit here in Switzerland) but I'm not sure about the fit...

http://www.blacklapel.com/suits/solid-cool-gray.html

I chose slim-fit and asked them to lower the button stance by 1":































My opinion:

Trousers
  • length seems more or less fine (could be slightly shorter)
  • too wide around the thighs and bottom
Jacket
  • sleeves too long
  • shoulder are "bumpy"
  • armholes could be higher

  • end of lapel and button are too close together (don't know how to explain this...)

  • ...



What do you think of my first online MTM suit? Alterations? 


Thanks a lot!

Also, the jacket is slightly too short and the pants pockets are flaring at the hips. Overall, the suit is not good, but spending up to $150 tailoring it should make it passable.
post #3532 of 5373



Ok. Need help from the tailors. I'm extremely disappointed with indochino. My tuxedo jacket is fine but my pants are not. These are already the remade pants. What makes me mad is I'm pretty sure I know the solution to fix the problem with the fit in the seat of my pants. My good fitting pants have double darts, but unfortunately indochino does not allow that even though the accomodated jeffreyd when he reviewed their suits last year. With single darts, the upper seat is too tight both at the back and at the sides you can see the satin stripe is pulling back as well. The lower seat is fine. When I measure my upper seat line (along the pocket slits) its about 1 inch smaller than my good fitting pants, the lower seat measures the same.

So indochino is not willing to remake the pants with double darts in the back. The tell me to keep adding to the seat measurement. That might make the upper seat fit, but I assume it will make the lower seat too loose.

What should I do? I thought maybe I could get double darts added afterwards, but how would I change my measurements? I assume I might need to add to both the waist and seat.

HELP!
post #3533 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

Ok. Need help from the tailors. I'm extremely disappointed with indochino. My tuxedo jacket is fine but my pants are not. These are already the remade pants. What makes me mad is I'm pretty sure I know the solution to fix the problem with the fit in the seat of my pants. My good fitting pants have double darts, but unfortunately indochino does not allow that even though the accomodated jeffreyd when he reviewed their suits last year. With single darts, the upper seat is too tight both at the back and at the sides you can see the satin stripe is pulling back as well. The lower seat is fine. When I measure my upper seat line (along the pocket slits) its about 1 inch smaller than my good fitting pants, the lower seat measures the same.

So indochino is not willing to remake the pants with double darts in the back. The tell me to keep adding to the seat measurement. That might make the upper seat fit, but I assume it will make the lower seat too loose.

What should I do? I thought maybe I could get double darts added afterwards, but how would I change my measurements? I assume I might need to add to both the waist and seat.

HELP!

Adding a dart without increasing the seat measurement will not help this- you need to increase the seat, which is too tight. The point of the extra dart is that when increasing the seat measurement on the pattern, you will also increase the waist- the extra dart allows you to remove that additional width in the waist but leave the ease in the seat. I could add a drawing if that would help you understand.
post #3534 of 5373
Thanks jeffreyd. I think I understand. Right now my indochino pattern measurements are 31.5" waist and 40.75" seat (pants hip). I think I need to add another 1" to the seat and it becomes over 10" difference. How would this fit/look with single darts as indochino says they cannot do double darts anymore?

Would I be better off adding 1" to the waist as well and have my local tailor adding additional darts to take it back in? Should I take the thigh measurement in a bit so the lower seat doesn't get too baggy?
post #3535 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post

Thanks jeffreyd. I think I understand. Right now my indochino pattern measurements are 31.5" waist and 40.75" seat (pants hip). I think I need to add another 1" to the seat and it becomes over 10" difference. How would this fit/look with single darts as indochino says they cannot do double darts anymore?

Can't say without knowing how they will take the excess out of the waist.
Quote:
Would I be better off adding 1" to the waist as well and have my local tailor adding additional darts to take it back in? Should I take the thigh measurement in a bit so the lower seat doesn't get too baggy?

It's very tricky to do on finished pants- talk to your tailor about whether he would want to attempt this before making that kind of a change. Don't touch the thigh- it's far easier to reduce it than to try to let it out if it ends up too tight.
post #3536 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

I could add a drawing if that would help you understand.

 

Could you please do that. biggrin.gif It might help me a lot too!

post #3537 of 5373
[quote name="OTCtailor" url="/t/265924/The back balance must be squared off.
[/quote]

Can you explain what back balance is? I hear this about balance but not sure I understand it.
post #3538 of 5373
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

Can't say without knowing how they will take the excess out of the waist.

I guess it is possible to take in the excess with "deeper" folds on the single darts? But I have a feeling the shape around the seat might start looking triangular than rounded along the dart lines?
post #3539 of 5373
Desperately need some help before an upcoming wedding. The suit just doesn't feel right, I think the jacket is too big in the shoulders? I'm 5'10 165 and it's a 40S, I think 38 would be too small.

Not sure what to do with the pants, I'm pretty big in the hips naturally, does it need to be tapered down the leg?








post #3540 of 5373
Thoughts from anyone on the length of this jacket?

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