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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 235

post #3511 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

I'd probably get some stares. 
 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Going to go with this for now. I'm Irish but it'll still work. Might look good with burgundy half brogues.

Doooo iiiiit!

post #3512 of 5371

hey guys, hopefully just a quick question for the awesome tailors responding in the thread :) and I fear I know the answer but....cleaning out the wardrobe I happened upon an older suit I still quite like, the issue is the pants are size 34 and im down to 31 these days, any hope a tailor could work their magic or with that difference is it unlikely to be a good (or possible) result? 

post #3513 of 5371

It's not impossible but you won't like the result. 

post #3514 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris2012 View Post

hey guys, hopefully just a quick question for the awesome tailors responding in the thread :) and I fear I know the answer but....cleaning out the wardrobe I happened upon an older suit I still quite like, the issue is the pants are size 34 and im down to 31 these days, any hope a tailor could work their magic or with that difference is it unlikely to be a good (or possible) result? 

Well, I'd suggest trying them on and posting pics. It all depends on where you've mostly lost the weight and how the trousers are cut from the start.

post #3515 of 5371

OTC -

 

Here's Luxires suggestion. This is in addition to my pinned picture.

 

Hi Nathan,
apologies for the delayed reply.


I think you have pinned it perfectly.  The pants will look great in a fabric with a little more gravity sensitivity in it.


Without making the rise much bigger, we will let out the fork to remove any tightness in the rear. 1 cm is not a problem.


We should get started.

 

Hopefully this does something... If not, $198 down the drain between two pairs of pants and I'm stuck looking like I crapped my pants everywhere I go.

post #3516 of 5371

Cross post from the Luxire thread, looking for feedback on the fit of the shirt.

 

 

post #3517 of 5371
Gentlemen,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm hoping to get some feedback, either from the tailors or other knowledgeable users, about a MTM suit I recently purchased. I'm going for a slim fit with this one, but I think there are some serious issues, particularly with the jacket. My guess is that it needs a remake, but I'm not entirely sure of what to adjust, or by how much. (The suit has not been pressed, obviously; apologies for that.)

Some questions/concerns:
  • Shoulders: This jacket measures about 0.5" wider across the shoulders than my best-fitting OTR jacket. Would reducing the shoulder width by 0.5" or so diminish the divoting?
  • Waist: I like slim, but the jacket is too tight around the waist. The photos don't show it well, but there's a noticeable X emanating from the top button. And from the back view, the waist is too "scooped" for my taste. Would adding an inch or two to the stomach measurement help minimize this?
  • Length: My arms are long, so the jacket appears a bit short, but it does seem to cover my ass appropriately. Or, rather, it covers the part of my body where my ass would be, if I had one. Lengthen or no?
  • Back/Arms: The wrinkling around my triceps is a dealbreaker for me. I'm guessing this has to do with the pitch of the sleeve? Is the wrinkling on the sides of my upper back also related to sleeve pitch, or is this a separate issue?
  • Sleeve width: I discovered the sleeves were *way* too tight when I attempted to answer my phone. Felt like I was about to burst a seam. Another dealbreaker. Can this be fixed by adding an inch or so to the sleeve width?

There are some other, more minor issues (neck roll, right sleeve needs lengthening, etc.), but these are the ones I'm most concerned about.

Thanks!

-phil
Edited by philozine - 7/9/13 at 11:01am
post #3518 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by philozine View Post

Gentlemen,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I'm hoping to get some feedback, either from the tailors or other knowledgeable users, about a MTM suit I recently purchased. I'm going for a slim fit with this one, but I think there are some serious issues, particularly with the jacket. My guess is that it needs a remake, but I'm not entirely sure of what to adjust, or by how much. (The suit has not been pressed, obviously; apologies for that.)

Some questions/concerns:
  • Shoulders: This jacket measures about 0.5" wider across the shoulders than my best-fitting OTR jacket. Would reducing the shoulder width by 0.5" or so diminish the divoting?
  • Waist: I like slim, but the jacket is too tight around the waist. The photos don't show it well, but there's a noticeable X emanating from the top button. And from the back view, the waist is too "scooped" for my taste. Would adding an inch or two to the stomach measurement help minimize this?
  • Length: My arms are long, so the jacket appears a bit short, but it does seem to cover my ass appropriately. Or, rather, it covers the part of my body where my ass would be, if I had one. Lengthen or no?
  • Back/Arms: The wrinkling around my triceps is a dealbreaker for me. I'm guessing this has to do with the pitch of the sleeve? Is the wrinkling on the sides of my upper back also related to sleeve pitch, or is this a separate issue?
  • Sleeve width: I discovered the sleeves were *way* too tight when I attempted to answer my phone. Felt like I was about to burst a seam. Another dealbreaker. Can this be fixed by adding an inch or so to the sleeve width?

There are some other, more minor issues (neck roll, right sleeve needs lengthening, etc.), but these are the ones I'm most concerned about.

Thanks!

-phil










Wouldn't change the p2p or if you do, do it out of preference. It's not going to make a difference in fact it would make the divoting likely worse if you go smaller. The divots are occurring because the jacket appears tight across the shoulders and upper back area. That force applies a tug to the back of the armscye causing it to collapse creating a divot. There's a possibility the jacket isnt quite cut right to your posture. Lowering the collar or squaring the shoulders would not fix the collar roll, either. You have a head forward/semi stooped neck. The balance needs to be adjusted for that properly from the pattern stage. Your arms hang semi forward. That needs to be adjusted for, too. It's also possible that the maker's sleeve pattern is archaic and flawed causing it to pucker up like that. The sleeves are a little tight but easing up the waist suppression would probably help. You could ask for 1" of additional ease at the bicep for a fuller sleeve, though.

For a remake, you wouldn't increase your stomach measurement. You'd just ask for an increase in the ease or half girth. Whatever your stomach measure is, add 5" and divide it by 2. That number is what you should measure if you wrap a tape around the jacket starting at the edge of the front flap (either side) and measuring around to the center seam. Most MTM makers should be able to follow your measurement. Adding 1" to the existing half girth would really help. You could possible go even further.

Also, your right sleeve is too short by a solid half inch. The jacket length appears to be fine.

Hope that helps. Any other questions, do inbox me.

post #3519 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

OTC -

 

Here's Luxires suggestion. This is in addition to my pinned picture.

 

Hi Nathan,
apologies for the delayed reply.


I think you have pinned it perfectly.  The pants will look great in a fabric with a little more gravity sensitivity in it.


Without making the rise much bigger, we will let out the fork to remove any tightness in the rear. 1 cm is not a problem.


We should get started.

 

Hopefully this does something... If not, $198 down the drain between two pairs of pants and I'm stuck looking like I crapped my pants everywhere I go.

Well, the rise doesn't need to be bigger at all. Letting out the fork at the back is probably not going to help unless the back rise is shortened. It would just add to the fullness already there. 

post #3520 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Well, the rise doesn't need to be bigger at all. Letting out the fork at the back is probably not going to help unless the back rise is shortened. It would just add to the fullness already there. 

The rise is kind of being eaten up by me rolling up the fabric. If I roll up 4cm, it's too much of the rise. They want to let out 1cm.. make sense yet? Still a bad idea?

post #3521 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Wouldn't change the p2p or if you do, do it out of preference. It's not going to make a difference in fact it would make the divoting likely worse if you go smaller. The divots are occurring because the jacket appears tight across the shoulders and upper back area. That force applies a tug to the back of the armscye causing it to collapse creating a divot. There's a possibility the jacket isnt quite cut right to your posture. Lowering the collar or squaring the shoulders would not fix the collar roll, either. You have a head forward/semi stooped neck. The balance needs to be adjusted for that properly from the pattern stage. Your arms hang semi forward. That needs to be adjusted for, too. It's also possible that the maker's sleeve pattern is archaic and flawed causing it to pucker up like that. The sleeves are a little tight but easing up the waist suppression would probably help. You could ask for 1" of additional ease at the bicep for a fuller sleeve, though.
For a remake, you wouldn't increase your stomach measurement. You'd just ask for an increase in the ease or half girth. Whatever your stomach measure is, add 5" and divide it by 2. That number is what you should measure if you wrap a tape around the jacket starting at the edge of the front flap (either side) and measuring around to the center seam. Most MTM makers should be able to follow your measurement. Adding 1" to the existing half girth would really help. You could possible go even further.
Also, your right sleeve is too short by a solid half inch. The jacket length appears to be fine.
Hope that helps. Any other questions, do inbox me.

This is very helpful, OTC. Thank you. I'll inbox you after the holiday with a couple follow-up questions.
post #3522 of 5371

Adventures in clearance rack suit buying continue.  I found an elusive 34S for $20, so I figured I would try it out.  Any feedback regarding the fit is appreciated.

 

post #3523 of 5371
^way too big
post #3524 of 5371
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanager View Post

Adventures in clearance rack suit buying continue.  I found an elusive 34S for $20, so I figured I would try it out.  Any feedback regarding the fit is appreciated.

 

For what it is, it can be adjusted to fit generally better but to manage your expectations correctly, it isn't cut right for your body at all. The back balance must be squared off. Needs waist suppression where ever possible. Sleeves need shortened. Don't know what it cost you but those alterations will probably cost more than you bought it for. Unless you're in love with it, I'd suggest returning it for the money you paid and what you would pay with alterations go buy something nicer.

post #3525 of 5371
I have noticed an unatural amount of wear in the crotch region of both pair of suitpants I have. They do not feel tight but maybe they are, is this anything you guys have experienced and do you now of any way this can be mitigated? As of now I would wear out a pair in a couple of months wich does not feel ok.
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