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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 231

post #3451 of 5098
Quote: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Originally Posted by gtvisa2002 View Post

Hello Gentlemen,

 

Hoping to get your feedback on alterations on these dress pants. I am revisiting my wardrobe and trying to replace old baggy pants with better fitting ones.

I think the thy, knee areas need to be taken in along with the height.

 

I would really appreciate your feedback. I am going for a slimmer look but don't want it to be too tight either. Thanks much.

 

Sorry about the black belts with Brown shoes. I just put this on to give you a feel. Will make sure to pair them appropriately next time.

Additional pictures (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bump. I appreciate your feedback.

post #3452 of 5098

Gentlemen,

 

I'm in need of some advice...

 

I've recently had two suits made to measure, and I'm struggling to decide which of the tailors I should go back to for my third. Any input on their comparative merits would be much appreciated, particularly on those areas that are hard to correct (e.g. shoulder fit...I know I have "champagne bottle shoulders"!)

 

I've noted down my amateur impressions, so please tell me if I'm wrong in any of this!

 

Suit 1, Left hand picture

13oz holland and sherry, charcoal with narrow stripe

  • Shoulders extend too far and are much firmer, particularly when seen from the back. Clean chest, better jacket length and sleeve position. Skirt flares too much?

 

Suit 2, Right hand picture

Dinner Suit, 10oz, midnight blue w/midnight blue grosgrain lapels (I kept the same shirt and tie to save changing...but it's ok, I know what a bow tie is bigstar[1].gif)

  • Shoulders are more natural (is this necessarily better?). Fuller chest, button stance too high, sleeve needs rotating forward slightly, jacket a little short, pulls across the back.

 

Many thanks in advance!

 

 

 

 

post #3453 of 5098
Looksmart88, neither looks great, but the suit on the left is much closer.
post #3454 of 5098

Why young men want their suits so tight baffles me. You need some ease and this is not evident from the pics. Suppression is where you should be looking for the front and back views. Centre back is too tight, need to open to release the fabric.Tight pants need to be a way higher than normal. I always recommend this: put the trouser on your natural waist and just try to cover the top of your shoe laces. That's it! For those gents that wish to have the back length longer, then slant the cuff, the result will be the same.

The Savile Row boys call this 'whispering your laces', so there is your tip-of-the-day! 

post #3455 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looksmart88 View Post

Gentlemen,

I'm in need of some advice...

I've recently had two suits made to measure, and I'm struggling to decide which of the tailors I should go back to for my third. Any input on their comparative merits would be much appreciated, particularly on those areas that are hard to correct (e.g. shoulder fit...I know I have "champagne bottle shoulders"!)

I've noted down my amateur impressions, so please tell me if I'm wrong in any of this!

Suit 1, Left hand picture
13oz holland and sherry, charcoal with narrow stripe
  • Shoulders extend too far and are much firmer, particularly when seen from the back. Clean chest, better jacket length and sleeve position. Skirt flares too much?

Suit 2, Right hand picture
Dinner Suit, 10oz, midnight blue w/midnight blue grosgrain lapels (I kept the same shirt and tie to save changing...but it's ok, I know what a bow tie is bigstar%5B1%5D.gif)
  • Shoulders are more natural (is this necessarily better?). Fuller chest, button stance too high, sleeve needs rotating forward slightly, jacket a little short, pulls across the back.

Many thanks in advance!










I take it champagne bottle shoulders means sloped shoulders?
The problems start there with these two suits. The slope looks off. Beyond that it looks like the point to point is too wide potentially.

Independent tailor supplied MTM or online? Or a clothier supplied brand? Just curious.
post #3456 of 5098
I don't usually bother commenting but ...
Pictures are really dark and hard to see details, but it looks like the fronts are short and backs too long, so its a balance issue.
I really don't know why the sleeves hang so badly-i suspect it is the pattern shape, too narrow in the top crown of the sleeve, pulling in and distorting, but not sure why they are lumpy all the length. As I said , too dark to see details.
I don't like to see the peak of the lapel above the shoulder- just my own aesthetic and 2 cents worth.
post #3457 of 5098

Thanks OTC, correct I meant sloping shoulders. They are both small independent tailors that have MTM and bespoke, neither do RTW. So I'm quite comfortable going back for alterations (for that which can be altered). When you say the slope is off, I take it they're not sloping enough? And for the point-to-point, can this be altered?

 

Ttailor - I completely agree on the lapel, I was quite surprised when I saw it. I've not done anything about it yet, just because changing it might be difficult. The sleeve problem has puzzled me as well, would a small rotation help do you think?

 

Thanks all, much appreciated!

post #3458 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looksmart88 View Post

Thanks OTC, correct I meant sloping shoulders. They are both small independent tailors that have MTM and bespoke, neither do RTW. So I'm quite comfortable going back for alterations (for that which can be altered). When you say the slope is off, I take it they're not sloping enough? And for the point-to-point, can this be altered?

Ttailor - I completely agree on the lapel, I was quite surprised when I saw it. I've not done anything about it yet, just because changing it might be difficult. The sleeve problem has puzzled me as well, would a small rotation help do you think?

Thanks all, much appreciated!

And ttailor is also right. Major balance issue. Pics aren't great but I suspect you a more erect posture and those jackets aren't cut for that. They're falling in the back. How do they hang when unbuttoned?
Some of the issues can be altered but you don't wanna mess with anything in the shoulders.
post #3459 of 5098
Hello Gentleman:

New MTM summer jacket (Samuelsohn). Comments on fit? Thanks.




Edited by Mimosa - 6/22/13 at 8:10pm
post #3460 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimosa View Post

Hello Gentleman:

New MTM summer jacket (Samuelsohn). Comments on fit? Thanks.



That's a decent result for MTM. The jacket is short but that seems to be preference these days and probably what you asked for because no one at Sam would recommend a jacket that short by default. It looks good for a fashion SJ, tho.. All around not bad.

post #3461 of 5098
It's short and the button stance is very high.
post #3462 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

It's short and the button stance is very high.

There is a balance issue from front and back of jacket as well. But almost 2 inches too short in the body and the chest is tight
post #3463 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

It's short and the button stance is very high.

There are several considerations that go into determining button stance. Client height and overall jacket proportions make it so. If you don't specify where it should be, chances are the maker just places it based on your height/jacket length proportions. Another consideration is the half girth which is the narrowest measure on the torso. This measure can and usually is different than the "waist" (where the trousers are worn) and may also be different than the "stomach" (the fullest part of the torso). The button stance will usually fall to that point. If the length of the jacket is "classic", then the stance will look natural. If it's short, then the stance will look high. If the stance is lowered too much whether on a classic jacket or especially a short jacket, it will present confusion on the part of the maker...whether in MTM or bespoke. They'll ask to "correct" it. If you say no, they'll make it that way and it'll present a fitting issue later on. That is to say that the button stance should hit right where the torso is at its narrowest. You have 1" up or down flexibility at the most. Beyond that you're potentially wrecking proportions and challenging the the fit for no good reason. Accept your height and torso length relationship without complaint. <---- That's a BIG period ending that last sentence.

post #3464 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post


There is a balance issue from front and back of jacket as well. But almost 2 inches too short in the body and the chest is tight

The back balance is fine. The front is short but my guess is this is the first MTM with Sam he's done. The way his body is shaped is a challenge to nail the front balance. It needs to be lengthened a bit, yes, but it's not falling in the back or way too long. That makes it wearable, at least. Lengthening the front balance would simply be the next step. 

post #3465 of 5098
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

The back balance is fine. The front is short but my guess is this is the first MTM with Sam he's done. The way his body is shaped is a challenge to nail the front balance. It needs to be lengthened a bit, yes, but it's not falling in the back or way too long. That makes it wearable, at least. Lengthening the front balance would simply be the next step. 

Hi OTCtailor:

You are spot on with my body shape being a challenge with the front of my jackets. I usually have some bowing at the lapels the first go around and then the tailor has do their magic.

I assume the suggestions for "lengthening the front balance" would have to happen when ordering my next MTM? Or is there something my tailor could do try and get the front balance correct?

Best,

Mim
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