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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 201

post #3001 of 7015
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Not sure what those bumps are coming from on your shoulders. The jacket looks a little snug in the back waist area. I think the length is fine.


Thanks for your answer OTC! I think it's the shoulder pad. That it is not well accommodated. But I don't know if it could be easily fix. Overall how do you see the jacket? It look a bit snug in the back waist area, but I'm a bit fat right know, when I cut back that would not be a problem. biggrin.gif


Another question. Can the quarters of the jacket could be opened?

Edited by Betelgeuse - 3/21/13 at 8:35am
post #3002 of 7015

Could anyone give feedback on this linen Sportscoat? I feel it's a little too wide near my hips, below the waist. Thanks!



post #3003 of 7015
Looks a wee bit snug at the waist, and the sleeves could be a hair shorter, but I think it looks good on you.
post #3004 of 7015
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Overall, everything looks fine. It's all adjustable without a ton of work or money spent. You can get the back adjusted around the left blade but I have no idea how your surgery and healing will affect the fit in that area. The sleeve wrinkles aren't bad enough to warrant an adjustment. Are you left or right handed? You can probably drop the right sleeve a quarter to half inch. Even though they're probably working cuffs, the way they're sewn may still permit this to occur. If you don't know, send a picture of the inside of the cuff and I'll tell you. You're teetering on 44L/XL territory with your height. That jacket couldn't go any shorter. If possible, I'd look for a longer jacket. It isn't too short, but it's close. I used to be in the service so I'm pretty sure I understand the way you're trying to dress and it's not so much fashion that you're after.

It's a little hard to tell but since you say the pants fit well in the waist, I'll assume you probably have a very flat seat. There are adjustment a tailor can make to the rise, stride, and seat to clean up all the wrinkles and collapsing cloth to give the pants a cleaner fit. Hem them after that, not before.


Thanks for the advice! I think my plan will be to send this suit back, then repurchase it once I've regained some strength. I'm not in a hurry to buy something right now, and I'll probably have access to some better tailors when I move in a few months.


Looking for a longer jacket is tricky. Not many places seem to carry 44XL. 44L in Brooks Brothers suits is definitely too short on me and the shoulders don't fit me well on 44XL. Although I do have some 44XL Milano suits coming in the mail tomorrow that I'm going to try out.


I'm right handed. Here's a couple shots of the inside of the cuffs. There was a Put This On post on Suit Supply that mentioned the drawback of working cuffs, but hopefully there will be enough room later on. I might also need the left sleeve lengthened later on.




post #3005 of 7015
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Looks a wee bit snug at the waist, and the sleeves could be a hair shorter, but I think it looks good on you.

Thanks for the feedback, it's much appreciated!

post #3006 of 7015

Hello all!  Looking for some suggestions on this coat!   One of the sleeves and the collar are pinned.  Thank you!  







post #3007 of 7015
Thanks Nore and OTC.

These have been washed and air-dryed a long for over a year now.
post #3008 of 7015

Odd question here fella's, but is there a correlation between shoulders getting bigger (dude to working out) , and waist feeling tighter because its sitting higher on your body? Tried on my SC today and its definitely tighter in the waist, but also seems to be riding up on my body. May I should just stick to cardio

post #3009 of 7015

Dear Tailors:


I think it is clear from the picture that I have a noticeable bow leg. I'm curious how a trouser can be cut for this, while still being slim. I can see that a fuller cut might hide the curve but being youngish, can't really stand a fuller cut. The jacket below has been critiqued on this thread so ignore that.


On my left leg, you can clearly see,that the crease does not create a straight line. I have no idea how you can cut trousers to hide this better. Would you cut the thigh area a little trimmer, the knee a little fuller, but taper to the cuff (which is about 8.25 inches). Would this give more of a straight line on the inside of the leg? Nothing, I think, can be done on the outside.




post #3010 of 7015
Dear Tailors:
Just ordered my first shirt from Proper Cloth. Seems to fit okay - I am about to order additional shirts, so I am trying to fine-tune the sizing. There seems to be excess material in the back - how should I ask them to address that going forward? Any feedback/comments would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Shirt Dimensions:
* Presidential Spread Collar
* Collar Around: 16.00
* Sleeve Length: 33.00
* Yoke Width: 17.75
* Chest Width: 21.50
* Midsection Width: 18.50
* Shirt Length: 30.50
* Sleeve Width: 8.00
* Cuff Around: 8.75
* Bottom Width: 20.00
* Watch Allowance: None
* Shoulder Slope: Sloping Shoulders
* Forearm: Slim
* Shoulder/Armpit Fit: Full
* Rear Pleats: None
* Posture: Normal










post #3011 of 7015

Hello Tailors:


I recently bought an OTR suit and appreciate any feedback you can provide on fit.  My thoughts are that the jacket seems to fit in the shoulders but is loose through the body.  The trousers need to be taken in an inch or two at the waist and shortened.  The sleeves on the jacket also need to be shortened.  This is a 42R.  I also bought a 40R to try on for size, but the shoulders seemed too tight.  As background, I have a fairly athletic build with about an 8 or 9 inch drop.  Broad shoulders and a wider back compared to my waist, so it's hard to find a jacket that fits in both the shoulders and body.  


One thing I noticed is that there seems to be a slight horizontal crease on both sleeves right under where the sleeves attach to the shoulder.  Does this mean that the jacket doesn't fit in the shoulders?  I included close-up pics of what I'm referring to.


Can I make this suit work with the proper alterations or is the fit off enough that I should look elsewhere?


Thanks in advance for your advice!













post #3012 of 7015

Alright, a little question with self-made diagrams involved.


On some bespoke and high-end RTW, I have noticed a kind of waist suppression / silhouette that I find really flattering, and is very different from what I get on my MTM stuff.


My jackets are cut like this, with a gradual waist suppression that, due to my proportions, creates an hourglass shape which I find femenine and unflattering:




While the jackets I like are shaped differently; gradual waist suppression until we reach the hips, where there is a more pronounced outwards curve, then the skirt falls straight, like this:




My question is if it is possible to take a finished jacket that looks like (A), but with a looser fitting waist, to a tailor, and have it shaped like (B) (just the waist/hips transition area, not the chest drape obviously). I'm thinking the front dart might get in the way, but want to be sure.



Edited by RDiaz - 3/21/13 at 10:26am
post #3013 of 7015
Just to be clear: You prefer B? If so, I think you're swimming upstream against the general consensus of what good tailoring looks like.
post #3014 of 7015
I am not tailor and perhaps you have thought this through and you may not give a hoot about my thoughts(which is fair and fine)
but the A sketch is no more feminine than the B.
I do not know your physique which matters or maybe these pics are exaggerated but if you look at an hourglass or the bombshells of the 60s putting that figure to the limit, they pop
more in the same line as the B sketch. And again, I am no tailor, but creating almost hard angles would seem difficult.
At least you seem to know to have the skirt of the jacket not flaring and to be near perpendicular to the ground. This is what I find the most the egregious of sins in many of the fawned over SF glitterati.
Proportions of the body must dictate some of the shape of the jacket. Features that exaggerate the worst points of one's physique makes no sense to me.

Perhaps if you showed live pics of jackets you prefer vs dislike?
post #3015 of 7015

I do prefer B, and I think it's the main reason why I believe DB looks better on me (most DB's are cut with that sort of silhouette). Perhaps I've exaggerated it a bit, but it was just to illustrate my pont better.


I don't think it should be against what good tailoring looks like, it's just that different silhouettes are better suited to certain body types. Here is an example of (B), by Slewfoot:




 while mine look more like this example from Vox (and I hate the way it looks on me):



Perhaps it's the overall "curviness" of the jacket what I don't like. I feel like it creates an effect similar to that of jackets with overly high buttoning points, contributing to perceived pear shape. Mine are cut with more rounded quarters too, so that might contribute as well.


My last MTM is at the tailor right now, but will try to snap a pic when I get it back.

Edited by RDiaz - 3/21/13 at 11:14am
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