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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 200

post #2986 of 5215
Double post
post #2987 of 5215
Anyone?
post #2988 of 5215
Looks slightly large in the chest (extra fabric near underarms) and the armholes could be higher since you have long arms but other than that it looks good. Have you allowed for shrinkage?

So: smaller chest circumference (when arms extended) & longer undersleeve if that's the right term.
post #2989 of 5215

Hello,

 

I would like to request some feedback on this suit. For background, I am 6' 5", 205 lbs. It has been difficult to find a RTW suit that fits me well, but this has been the best so far. It is a Suit Supply size 44L in the Napoli cut, dark gray. I do not currently own a suit, so I was hoping this would fill the void. I'm in the military, so I do not wear one for work and this would be only for occasions such as weddings or funerals. I don't want to spend a lot since I wear a suit so infrequently. I haven't worn one in over four years.

 

Some notes I had:

 

  • The collar is too large on the shirt I am wearing. I have some others on order that are 1/2" smaller in the collar.
  • The jacket collar stays close to my shirt collar as I move my arms around.
  • I had surgery on my left shoulder at the beginning of January and I think it is apparent that my left shoulder & arm muscles have atrophied. I also had surgery on my right shoulder a few years ago. Before surgery, I lifted weights and was in much better shape. Even so, my posture has always been rounded.
  • I can't decide if the shoulders are a little large or ok.
  • The sleeve pitch looks a little off, but moving my arms a little bit the rumpling in the back of the sleeves goes away. I did my best to stand naturally but it seems like a very sensitive thing. Not sure I could do much better with a RTW suit.
  • The left sleeve looks much longer, probably because of my left shoulder. There is extra material to extend the sleeves up to about 3/4".
  • I'm wearing a Brooks Brothers Slim Fit shirt, but I would typically wear Extra Slim Fit. I have the slim fit on since I had it tailored to fit better in the body and it isn't baggy. Ideally, my shirt would have about 1/2" smaller collar and 1" longer sleeves, with smaller cuffs that make the cuffs rest in the proper location on my wrist. The cuffs are too large on this shirt and the sleeves are a little short, but it looks ok standing straight.
  • One thing that's a tiny bit frustrating is this is a BB spread collar shirt, but even so the collar doesn't reach the jacket lapels. Is this ok?
  • The back is messy, especially around my left shoulder. This is probably partially because of my surgery.
  • The buttoning point is about 2-1/2" above my belly button. Is this high or ok on an Italian cut suit?
  • I think the jacket length looks fine.
  • The trousers are obviously unfinished but fit me well in the waist.
  • I wouldn't wear these shoes, I have some black oxford cap-toes on order.
  • I need a haircut.

 

 

Does it look like this suit might fit after alterations? 

 

Should I wait a few months until I have fully recovered from surgery, and am in better physical shape? I'm thinking this might be necessary, and maybe this suit will work then. Thoughts?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

post #2990 of 5215

ketawa: "I'm in the military, so I do not wear one for work and this would be only for occasions such as weddings or funerals." - as a side note, it's still perfectly acceptable for an active service member to wear some species of dress uniform for such events, isn't it? I think that'd be rather a nice option, really. But obviously, I don't know your circumstances!

post #2991 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamWill View Post

ketawa: "I'm in the military, so I do not wear one for work and this would be only for occasions such as weddings or funerals." - as a side note, it's still perfectly acceptable for an active service member to wear some species of dress uniform for such events, isn't it? I think that'd be rather a nice option, really. But obviously, I don't know your circumstances!

 

Yes, for military weddings it would be appropriate to wear dress whites assuming that the groom is wearing whites. I have done this as a swordsman for a friend's wedding. I would wear service dress blues to a military funeral.

 

I haven't been to a civilian wedding, but I would be wary of upstaging the groom by wearing whites. Same with civilian funerals, unless attending as an official representative of the Coast Guard, I would probably wear a regular suit.

 

I also need a suit simply because there's other events where a uniform would not be appropriate.

post #2992 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketawa View Post

Hello,

I would like to request some feedback on this suit. For background, I am 6' 5", 205 lbs. It has been difficult to find a RTW suit that fits me well, but this has been the best so far. 
It is a Suit Supply size 44L in the Napoli cut, dark gray. I do not currently own a suit, so I was hoping this would fill the void. 
I'm in the military, so 
I do not wear one for work and this would be only for occasions such as weddings or funerals. I don't want to spend a lot since I wear a suit so infrequently. I haven't worn one in over four years.


Some notes I had:

  • The collar is too large on the shirt I am wearing. I have some others on order that are 1/2" smaller in the collar.
  • The jacket collar stays close to my shirt collar as I move my arms around.
  • I had surgery on my left shoulder at the beginning of January and I think it is apparent that my left shoulder & arm muscles have atrophied. I also had surgery on my right shoulder a few years ago. Before surgery, I lifted weights and was in much better shape. Even so, my posture has always been rounded.
  • I can't decide if the shoulders are a little large or ok.
  • The sleeve pitch looks a little off, but moving my arms a little bit the rumpling in the back of the sleeves goes away. I did my best to stand naturally but it seems like a very sensitive thing. Not sure I could do much better with a RTW suit.
  • The left sleeve looks much longer, probably because of my left shoulder. There is extra material to extend the sleeves up to about 3/4".
  • I'm wearing a Brooks Brothers Slim Fit shirt, but I would typically wear Extra Slim Fit. I have the slim fit on since I had it tailored to fit better in the body and it isn't baggy. Ideally, my shirt would have about 1/2" smaller collar and 1" longer sleeves, with smaller cuffs that make the cuffs rest in the proper location on my wrist. The cuffs are too large on this shirt and the sleeves are a little short, but it looks ok standing straight.
  • One thing that's a tiny bit frustrating is this is a BB spread collar shirt, but even so the collar doesn't reach the jacket lapels. Is this ok?
  • The back is messy, especially around my left shoulder. This is probably partially because of my surgery.
  • The buttoning point is about 2-1/2" above my belly button. Is this high or ok on an Italian cut suit?
  • I think the jacket length looks fine.
  • The trousers are obviously unfinished but fit me well in the waist.
  • I wouldn't wear these shoes, I have some black oxford cap-toes on order.
  • I need a haircut.


Does it look like this suit might fit after alterations? 

Should I wait a few months until I have fully recovered from surgery, and am in better physical shape? I'm thinking this might be necessary, and maybe this suit will work then. Thoughts?

Thanks!













Suit looks perfectly fine. Just pull the pants up on your butt and you're good to go.
post #2993 of 5215

I bought a Benjamin 38R Sartorial Classico suit from ehaberdasher. How's the fit, and what alterations need to be made? Ignore the shirt and lack of shoes. The pics were taken at my girlfriend's.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The pants need the obvious slim/taper/hem. I'm more concerned with advice on the jacket.

 

Thoughts?

post #2994 of 5215

Just got my first bespoke jackets. I must say it was a tedious process, I talked about it a few posts ago, but they remake all the jacket. I am not still convinced to keep doing the suits or jackets with them, this one still have some issues, that I think it can be easily fix. Do not consider the pants. I think the shoulders have some bumps, that is the major problem I can see with it... and I might be wrong, but is that easily fixed? I orderes two jackets, and I told them that I want it a bit longer, although this covers my butt pretty much. Do you think I should get a longer jacket or this lenght is fine? Here are some pics.

 

 

 

 

post #2995 of 5215
Ok... just got my Indochino suit. Thoughts for the remake?

Jacket front:


Jacket left side:


Jacket right side:


Jacket rear:


Pants front:


Pants side:


Pants rear:



Here's what I've noticed on the jacket:

1. Decrease shoulders ~0.25”
2. Account for dropped right shoulder
3. Lower the button stance 1.0”
4. Shorten left sleeve 0.25” since my right arm is longer than my left (FYI my shirt sleeves are too long in the picture. Normally the cuff wouldn’t show on the left sleeve).
5. Increase waist by ~1” as it was tight in the waist and also causing the vent to flare.
6. Any other suggestions for fixing the vent flare?
7. Decrease chest about an inch to reduce excess fabric in front and back
8. Make adjustment for slight collar roll
9. Any other advice?

For the pants, I’m not really sure how to fix them. As you can see, the pockets are flaring out and there’s weird horizontal streaking at the side. I’m pretty sure this isn’t being cause by tightness in the front because unbuttoning and unzipping the pants did not fix this.

It could possibly be too tight in the back, but the J Crew pants I have (see previous post) only slightly have this issue and are at least 1.5” smaller at the hips. Could it also be the pocket construction? If it’s caused by tightness in the back, the problem with just increasing the hips measurement is that then the pants just flare out at the hips anyway due to excess fabric in the front (see the Black Lapel suit in my previous post). It’s almost like I just need extra fabric in the back half of the pants while keeping the same seam to seam width in the front. Any advice for someone with a small waist and larger hips and seat would be appreciated… (30” waist, 37.5” hips).



Also, below is my post from last week with my Black Lapel suit, and I'd be grateful for feedback on that one and just general advice on fitting my non-optimally-proportioned body.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nautikal View Post

Tailors:

I just got a suit from Black Lapel and would very much appreciate recommendations for the remake. The jacket fits very well in many areas (in my opinion), so hopefully I can fix the current issues with your help.

My measurements: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
5’7” and 130 lbs
Posture: Normal
Shoulder Type: Sloping
Shoulder Angle: Even (should have put lower right)
Fit: Tailored (in-between "slim" and "traditional")

Shoulders: 17.0”
Chest: 34.25”
Stomach: 30.75”
Jacket Length: 28.5”
Sleeve Length: 23.0”
Biceps: 11.75”
Wrists: 6.75”

Hips: 37.0”
Waist: 30.75”
Rise: 25.75”
Thigh: 21.0”
Knee: 14.0”
Pant Length: 37.75”

The jacket:
1. Obviously the shoulders are too large, but I am not sure whether to decrease by 0.25" or 0.5". Also, the construction of the shoulders just looks weird and uneven. Additionally, I did not notice until looking at pictures that I have a lower right shoulder, so I will specify that as well.
2. Any ideas what's causing the folds at the back of the sleeves? I'm not sure if its related, I will probably increase the biceps size by 0.5" because it felt a bit tight.
3. Looks like my right arm is longer than my left, so I need to shorten the left sleeve by 0.25”.

Any other thoughts?

Suit Jacket Pictures:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Jacket front


Jacket side:


Jacket rear:


The pants:
Overall, the pants do not fit well and are unflattering. They are too large at the hips and thigh, and because they darted the pants in the front (and also possibly because of the pocket construction) the pants flare out at the sides. I'm also not sure what's going on in the front to make it look like I have a uhhh... you know what... trying to escape.

The third spoiler link shows pictures of pants that fit pretty well (except for needing a bit more room in the rear fork) for comparison. They are a full inch smaller in the front (measured seam to seam at the midpoint of the front pockets). My hip measurement is larger mostly due to my prominent seat, not as much so from wide hips, so hopefully there is a way to account for this in the pattern?

Any other observations?

Suit Pants Pictures: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Suit pants front


Suit pants side


Suit pants rear


Comparison to pants I think that fit pretty well (J. Crew Bowery slim): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
J. Crew pants front


J. Crew pants side


J. Crew pants rear



Also, below is a shirt I got from Modern Tailor. It fits pretty well except it bulges in the back at the armhole seam (see circles) and conversely is too tight at the front armhole seam on my shoulder. Why is it fitting like this? Does the armhole need to come forward laterally or be rotated forward?

Shirt pictures: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Shirt side


Shirt back

Thanks again for your help. Slowly learning…
post #2996 of 5215

ketawa: I see! As an amateur opinion, I'd agree with Nore that it doesn't look bad at all, and what issues there are seem to be to do with your left shoulder as you noted - so you'd want to wait for that to heal before changing anything.

post #2997 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Suggestions for this shirt-I want to get some more made with similar measurements. Thanks
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)










add a little to the hips

post #2998 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketawa View Post

Hello,

 

I would like to request some feedback on this suit. For background, I am 6' 5", 205 lbs. It has been difficult to find a RTW suit that fits me well, but this has been the best so far. It is a Suit Supply size 44L in the Napoli cut, dark gray. I do not currently own a suit, so I was hoping this would fill the void. I'm in the military, so I do not wear one for work and this would be only for occasions such as weddings or funerals. I don't want to spend a lot since I wear a suit so infrequently. I haven't worn one in over four years.

 

Some notes I had:

 

  • The collar is too large on the shirt I am wearing. I have some others on order that are 1/2" smaller in the collar.
  • The jacket collar stays close to my shirt collar as I move my arms around.
  • I had surgery on my left shoulder at the beginning of January and I think it is apparent that my left shoulder & arm muscles have atrophied. I also had surgery on my right shoulder a few years ago. Before surgery, I lifted weights and was in much better shape. Even so, my posture has always been rounded.
  • I can't decide if the shoulders are a little large or ok.
  • The sleeve pitch looks a little off, but moving my arms a little bit the rumpling in the back of the sleeves goes away. I did my best to stand naturally but it seems like a very sensitive thing. Not sure I could do much better with a RTW suit.
  • The left sleeve looks much longer, probably because of my left shoulder. There is extra material to extend the sleeves up to about 3/4".
  • I'm wearing a Brooks Brothers Slim Fit shirt, but I would typically wear Extra Slim Fit. I have the slim fit on since I had it tailored to fit better in the body and it isn't baggy. Ideally, my shirt would have about 1/2" smaller collar and 1" longer sleeves, with smaller cuffs that make the cuffs rest in the proper location on my wrist. The cuffs are too large on this shirt and the sleeves are a little short, but it looks ok standing straight.
  • One thing that's a tiny bit frustrating is this is a BB spread collar shirt, but even so the collar doesn't reach the jacket lapels. Is this ok?
  • The back is messy, especially around my left shoulder. This is probably partially because of my surgery.
  • The buttoning point is about 2-1/2" above my belly button. Is this high or ok on an Italian cut suit?
  • I think the jacket length looks fine.
  • The trousers are obviously unfinished but fit me well in the waist.
  • I wouldn't wear these shoes, I have some black oxford cap-toes on order.
  • I need a haircut.

 

 

Does it look like this suit might fit after alterations? 

 

Should I wait a few months until I have fully recovered from surgery, and am in better physical shape? I'm thinking this might be necessary, and maybe this suit will work then. Thoughts?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

Overall, everything looks fine. It's all adjustable without a ton of work or money spent. You can get the back adjusted around the left blade but I have no idea how your surgery and healing will affect the fit in that area. The sleeve wrinkles aren't bad enough to warrant an adjustment. Are you left or right handed? You can probably drop the right sleeve a quarter to half inch. Even though they're probably working cuffs, the way they're sewn may still permit this to occur. If you don't know, send a picture of the inside of the cuff and I'll tell you. You're teetering on 44L/XL territory with your height. That jacket couldn't go any shorter. If possible, I'd look for a longer jacket. It isn't too short, but it's close. I used to be in the service so I'm pretty sure I understand the way you're trying to dress and it's not so much fashion that you're after.

It's a little hard to tell but since you say the pants fit well in the waist, I'll assume you probably have a very flat seat. There are adjustment a tailor can make to the rise, stride, and seat to clean up all the wrinkles and collapsing cloth to give the pants a cleaner fit. Hem them after that, not before.

post #2999 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Just got my first bespoke jackets. I must say it was a tedious process, I talked about it a few posts ago, but they remake all the jacket. I am not still convinced to keep doing the suits or jackets with them, this one still have some issues, that I think it can be easily fix. Do not consider the pants. I think the shoulders have some bumps, that is the major problem I can see with it... and I might be wrong, but is that easily fixed? I orderes two jackets, and I told them that I want it a bit longer, although this covers my butt pretty much. Do you think I should get a longer jacket or this lenght is fine? Here are some pics.

 

 

 

 

Not sure what those bumps are coming from on your shoulders. The jacket looks a little snug in the back waist area. I think the length is fine.

post #3000 of 5215
Quote:
Originally Posted by nautikal View Post

Ok... just got my Indochino suit. Thoughts for the remake?

Jacket front:


Jacket left side:


Jacket right side:


Jacket rear:


Pants front:


Pants side:


Pants rear:



Here's what I've noticed on the jacket:

1. Decrease shoulders ~0.25”
2. Account for dropped right shoulder
3. Lower the button stance 1.0”
4. Shorten left sleeve 0.25” since my right arm is longer than my left (FYI my shirt sleeves are too long in the picture. Normally the cuff wouldn’t show on the left sleeve).
5. Increase waist by ~1” as it was tight in the waist and also causing the vent to flare.
6. Any other suggestions for fixing the vent flare?
7. Decrease chest about an inch to reduce excess fabric in front and back
8. Make adjustment for slight collar roll
9. Any other advice?

For the pants, I’m not really sure how to fix them. As you can see, the pockets are flaring out and there’s weird horizontal streaking at the side. I’m pretty sure this isn’t being cause by tightness in the front because unbuttoning and unzipping the pants did not fix this.

It could possibly be too tight in the back, but the J Crew pants I have (see previous post) only slightly have this issue and are at least 1.5” smaller at the hips. Could it also be the pocket construction? If it’s caused by tightness in the back, the problem with just increasing the hips measurement is that then the pants just flare out at the hips anyway due to excess fabric in the front (see the Black Lapel suit in my previous post). It’s almost like I just need extra fabric in the back half of the pants while keeping the same seam to seam width in the front. Any advice for someone with a small waist and larger hips and seat would be appreciated… (30” waist, 37.5” hips).



Also, below is my post from last week with my Black Lapel suit, and I'd be grateful for feedback on that one and just general advice on fitting my non-optimally-proportioned body.

I will message you later with a little more specific help.

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