The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Brendon]

Hi AH
agree with A Tailor. When putting a light pad in the right shoulder, you will notice from your photo's that the right sleeve ( your right) is shorter already than the left. This is generally normal, so pad shoulder first , then fit the sleeve. Your ratio will be something like ( not accurate a guess) an inch off the left and 3/8 of the right.
Secondly only do up the middle button on the 3 button. I am not sure of tradition for this in the US, however for fit reasons alone , the 3 button S/B will never button correctly with the top two buttons done up from off the rack or Made to Measure.( If you look closely there is evidence in your photo of a slight bulge of excess length between the buttons)Always better to just do up the one. Once you have shortened the sleeves the whole coat will look better. Sounds odd but your hands will look stronger, which is very important for presence in a suit and contributes to the fourth balance which is "natural balance".
Do in that order and you will have better success
go well
Brendon

 

[RDiaz]

Hi,

I finally picked up my first MTM suit. I was stupid enough to inadvertently stand more erect than usual when being measured, and the result is a slightly off balance, more precisely, a short back (funny, I get just the opposite with RTW). I can fix it completely it by pulling on the back of the jacket a bit, but then I obviously get a little collar gap. Tailor says he can't fix the balance, but since it's a first try, it's a casual suit and it's not off by much (I can always stand more erect when wearing it, lol) I decided to keep it.
Future commissions will of course get this fixed, and I'm happy because everything else fits great and once we get this sorted out, future suits will look really good.

Question is, is a short back really not fixable? I want to trust my tailor, but I need some more opinions. Since pulling on the jacket kinda solves it, but creates a collar gap, would the collar gap be fixable instead?

The main problem is that the back of the skirt is flaring out, but the vents aren't opening, so maybe there are alternative solutions like shaping the back seam a bit?

I'm sorry I'm not providing pictures but my camera is wrecked, and my crappy cell phone won't help much... just want to know if a short back / collar gap is fixable... thanks.

 

[Despos]

^ If there is no plaid or horizontal pattern in the cloth to match at the side seams your tailor can open the side seams and raise the back. he can also raise the collar if needed. Another remedy is to shorten the fronts at the top of the shoulder but that is trickier because it raises the gorge and armhole and you may have to shorten the collar. Reducing on the side seams (maybe the backpart only) should help keep the jacket from flaring out on the back part.

It's partly up to the tailor to get you to relax and stand as natural as possible at fittings.

 

[RDiaz]

No plaid, it's a vertical hairline stripe that looks solid light blue from a distance. Since the tailor is going on vacation on Aug. 1 till Sept. 1, I guess it's too late to take it back and see if he can have a second look (as I need this suit for a couple casual weddings this month) but as soon as he's back I'll do it. I'll just stand erect at the weddings

Thanks a lot for your feedback!

 

[Despos]

The fronts will hang and look better too if he adjusts the back. A win-win

Raising the back is pretty straight forward. The only problem may be if he has to raise the back so much that it creates too much cloth at the end over your shoulder point and then he has to remake the shoulder and slope the back part a bit to keep the blade clean.

 

[RDiaz]

Guess so... at the front I'm kinda getting this :



but less exaggerated and the quarters don't open, they look right; I guess because the balance seems to be off by just half to 3/4 of an inch...

This of course if I don't pull the jacket down from the back. In fact when I put it on I do it so there's no collar gap, and that's when the balance goes off and the shoulders feel a bit awkward; but when I pull it down it seems to sit better on my shoulders and both the back and fronts looks fine, so maybe the real problem is collar gap and not balance... if one thing can be fixed without messing the other, that's great.
For a first MTM try I guess I'm being a nitpicker, but yeah it would be a win if I can get it perfect

 

[Diefenbaker]

Thanks a tailor. I've been following your and Mr. Despos' posts for several years and am truly impressed by the amount of time you two (and the other tailors on the board) spend helping anonymous strangers. The bunching at the fly is in fact only on the right side. My "equipment" feels like it's sitting down the left trouser leg...I've never experienced this before. The legs also seems too heavily pegged? Do you have any suggestions for the pulling at the vents of the jacket? Also the sleeves seem a tad narrow, and I think might need to be rehung as well?

Is it worth having them try to fix this garment, or should I try to get a remake? Looking at the pictures, there's very little flattering about this at all. I'm in for a grand including tax and options (functional buttonholes, Daks waist). Made by H. Freeman through a local shop.

first, thank you for buttoning the shirt collar, wish everyone would do that. [a hint to all.]
ok then the coat length imho is too long. an inch to an inch and a half.
the pad on the right shoulder raised the sleeve, thats why it became short.
the shoulder should have been cut for a right low.
that caused the break on the right waist. but the right hip should have been let out also.
look at the first trouser pictures, front and back. it shows up easly.
the right hip is higher and larger. that always happens with a low shoulder.
thats also the cause of problem with the pleats.
bunching at the bottom of the fly usually means that the rise is too short.
unless the bunching is only on the right side, only that is.
to better understand. go to the tutorials and read the ones that apply to each of your problems.
you think you have problems. this tailor has a lot more. betcha he will hate me.

 

[Despos]



Guess so... at the front I'm kinda getting this :



but less exaggerated and the quarters don't open, they look right; I guess because the balance seems to be off by just half to 3/4 of an inch...

This of course if I don't pull the jacket down from the back. In fact when I put it on I do it so there's no collar gap, and that's when the balance goes off and the shoulders feel a bit awkward; but when I pull it down it seems to sit better on my shoulders and both the back and fronts looks fine, so maybe the real problem is collar gap and not balance... if one thing can be fixed without messing the other, that's great.
For a first MTM try I guess I'm being a nitpicker, but yeah it would be a win if I can get it perfect

You picked the correct picture showing how the fronts open. I commend you. This is what happens to the fronts with a short back and you will see a difference when the back is shifted up. The low collar position is caused by a balance issue. Raising the collar won't correct or compensate for the short back.

 

[Despos]



Thanks a tailor.  I've been following your and Mr. Despos' posts for several years and am truly impressed by the amount of time you two (and the other tailors on the board) spend helping anonymous strangers.  The bunching at the fly is in fact only on the right side.  My "equipment" feels like it's sitting down the left trouser leg...I've never experienced this before.  The legs also seems too heavily pegged?  Do you have any suggestions for the pulling at the vents of the jacket?  Also the sleeves seem a tad narrow, and I think might need to be rehung as well?

Is it worth having them try to fix this garment, or should I try to get a remake?  Looking at the pictures, there's very little flattering about this at all.  I'm in for a grand including tax and options (functional buttonholes, Daks waist).  Made by H. Freeman through a local shop.

atailor covered this one well, I want to comment on the trouser as you don't have an easy to fit posture for trousers. Reverse pleats would work better for your build and body type. They need to take note of your right hip being higher and larger but some MTM programs don't go that far.
I would taper and shape the thigh/knee area and make the bottoms 1" wider, change to reverse pleats. On these trousers the fit is tight on your abdomen, 2" below the waistband seam but this is due to the way the waistband has been sewn onto the trouser. Removing the waistband and sewing it on properly, reshaping the leg would transform these.

 

[a tailor]



This is from Indochino, and I need a remake. Was hoping I can get some advice about the fit and in particular, guesstimates of how much I should change the various measurements by.

1. The shirt fits amazing. Bang on with the measurements, except for
   the wrist, which is much too small. I forgot to include the size of my
   watch. I'm going to request a remake for this reason, but I dunno
   whether they'll accept. Basically, it fits fine on the right wrist,
   but on the left, it probably needs about 1/4-1/2".
2. Shoulders are dimpled. I think the shoulders are too large. What do
   you think? 1/2" each side? The padding is sticking out a bit.
3. Jacket is too short. I think I need an extra 1.5"
   length on the jacket. That's half the distance from my wrist bone to
   my knuckles. You can see that when the jacket is buttoned up, it rides
   up; if I get the waist suppressed a tiny bit more, than it'll ride up
   even further. I think 1.5-2" inch extra length would work.
4. Button stance would be better lower by 0.75-1".
5. Pants are way, way too tight. This demands a remake. The waist is
   probably about 0.25-0.5" too tight, and the quads are maybe 0.75-1" each side?
   It does not look too bad from the front, but from the back, it's
   obvious. I would have trouble tying my shoelaces.

if you order a shirt again.
let them know about your right low shoulder . to measure see the tutorials.
the hips should be a little larger as well as the waist.
on this shirt just move the buttons on the cuff.

the pictures dont show dimples. and the length is quite short, an inch and
a half looks about right.
the entire front of the jacket is far too tight, and yet the upper back
is far too loose especially at the blades.
the right shoulder is low, see the tutorials.

the trouser seat should be at least 2 inches larger. did you give them a thigh measure?
make the bottom circumference one inch larger
between the larger bottom and thigh you may get enough room for your calves.

the most common mistake is to measure too tight hoping to get a slim fit?
remember you can all ways make it smaller, seldom make it larger.
why didnt you button your shirt collar?

 

[a tailor]



Many thanks for the help.
What's the alteration that is done for pocket flare? Is that usually a symptom of tightness, or is it unrelated?

i will put that on my list of tutorials in the future. the list is long now.

 

[a tailor]



Thanks a tailor.  I've been following your and Mr. Despos' posts for several years and am truly impressed by the amount of time you two (and the other tailors on the board) spend helping anonymous strangers.  The bunching at the fly is in fact only on the right side.  My "equipment" feels like it's sitting down the left trouser leg...I've never experienced this before.  The legs also seems too heavily pegged?  Do you have any suggestions for the pulling at the vents of the jacket?  Also the sleeves seem a tad narrow, and I think might need to be rehung as well?

Is it worth having them try to fix this garment, or should I try to get a remake?  Looking at the pictures, there's very little flattering about this at all.  I'm in for a grand including tax and options (functional buttonholes, Daks waist).  Made by H. Freeman through a local shop.

when the equipment is worn on the left side then there is empty space on the trousers right side.
that extra cloth must be removed.
the cutters instructions read "dress left cut right ". for the opposite it reads "dress right cut left ".

 

[RDiaz]

You picked the correct picture showing how the fronts open. I commend you. This is what happens to the fronts with a short back and you will see a difference when the back is shifted up. The low collar position is caused by a balance issue. Raising the collar won't correct or compensate for the short back.

But when the jacket sits correctly on my shoulders, even though there's the collar gap, the balance seems correct (i.e. the skirt doesn't flare in the back and the fronts look fine). The back becomes short and the shoulders feel less comfortable when I move the jacket trying to fix the collar gap. I'll see if I can borrow a camera....

 

[LokStock]

So yesterday I finally picked up a suit that was made for me by Lee Baron Tailor in Hong Kong. There are a couple of things I didn't catch while I was at the tailors so I will have to go back to have some alterations done.

What I caught with my novice eyes are the diagonal lines on my right back shoulder blade. I think that's from uneven shoulder heights, but I may be wrong.

I also noticed that the pants are bunching up/wrinkling up too much as you can see in most of the pictures. What is the cause of that?

Anyways.. I am looking for fit suggestions/opinions and on any points on how to resolve these problems.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

BTW, dont mind the shoes, I know they have to go. Also, I know the sleeve length of the shirt is a bit long.

 

[Despos]



But when the jacket sits correctly on my shoulders, even though there's the collar gap, the balance seems correct (i.e. the skirt doesn't flare in the back and the fronts look fine). The back becomes short and the shoulders feel less comfortable when I move the jacket trying to fix the collar gap. I'll see if I can borrow a camera....

Is there a question here? I can't tell.