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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 197

post #2941 of 5150

edit


Edited by pickleweed - 3/8/13 at 11:15am
post #2942 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by n1tsuj View Post

Feedback would be great thank you!

It's too small for you. Just about everywhere.
post #2943 of 5150

EDIT: Nevermind.


Edited by Scapino78 - 3/10/13 at 7:02am
post #2944 of 5150
Actually it is too big with the waist tailored too small and length not long enough. Lost cause. Balance is a disaster.
post #2945 of 5150
Would love to here from the tailors in this thread about adjustments to shirts..

Taking in at the sides vs darts.

Thanks in advance
post #2946 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Actually it is too big with the waist tailored too small and length not long enough. Lost cause.

I agree with the waist too tailored, but I am not convinced about the length, perhaps if the shirt sleeves were shortened? It is kind of difficult to tell we're the jacket sleeves are hitting.

Edit: looking again the jkt length is a bit above the knuckle.
post #2947 of 5150

I'm planning on having my first shirt made, through an online shirtmaker. I plan on using my only good shirt as a baseline, and altering dimensions based on that. Please let me know which dimensions should be altered and to what degree. I'm specifically interested in the position of the shoulder seams, and the back yoke showing on the front. Thanks for any feedback!

img 1, img 2, img 3, img 4, img 5, img 6, img 7, img 8, img 9, img 10

post #2948 of 5150
Shirt fitting woes!
I have been reading about your concerns for a while but have refrained from posting since you have a few tailors who offer their observations already.

As a pattern maker and tailor,  I am going to comment on some of common shirt fitting issues that seem to occur. 
The shirt as a garment was designed to be loose fitting. As such, the pattern pieces reflect this. The shirt is not a fitted bodice. There are limitations in the standard shirt pattern to achieve a closer fit without significantly changing the pattern. 

The shirt pattern is designed to have ease. A close fitting jacket typically is 10cm bigger than the chest and the shirt should be bigger than this. The armholes are typically lower as well.

The shirt sleeve pattern  has a flatter sleeve head (depth of crown) and this, combined with the standard armhole shape, allows the arm to be raised more easily without lifting the side of the garment. It sits in the armhole in more of a " T" shape rather than how a jacket sleeve sits for instance.

The problem these days is that the fashion for closer and closer fitting garments  is colliding with the traditional shirt pattern and fit. This, combined with well meaning but misunderstood concepts of how to make it fit closer causes no end of problems.

So here are a few things to think about with regards to the standard shirt pattern.

You cannot reduce the chest circumference radically or arbitrarily for a closer fit.

To do so forces the ease inherent in the shirt armhole to present as excess in front of the arm. Unless there is a seam or dart in the front that moves or removes the armhole ease, the ease is trapped there. If you raise the armhole at the same time, the issue is made worse. 
The yoke seam in the back is used to accommodate the shape of the body, reducing some of the inherent ease in the back armhole, but the same thing applies, just to a lesser degree.
If you also make the cross back/ yoke too  narrow and attempt to bring the shoulder line way up on the shoulder, the typical  shirt sleeve with its flat crown will have to travel up over the upper arm onto the shoulder which the pattern is not shaped for.  This often shows as vertical twisting and pulling drag lines in the sleeve toward the armpit. If you raise your arms to a horizontal level these pulls  will likely be reduced only to reappear as your arms are lowered. The forward reaching motion may also feel restrictive with a narrow back and no ease pleat.
If you have reduced the armhole circumference too much,  you may find that the sleeve is tight. It might not be big enough around the bicep, elbow and forearm for comfortable movement. As the arm bends, the muscles expand and there has to be ease in the sleeve.

The male body typically has more waist suppression in the back under the blades, so darts here are the best solution to clean up the back waist area. Some modification of the pattern can be done that will result in a change to  the side seam, armhole and/or yoke seam, but only to a limited degree. To aggressively take in the side seams to reduce the fabric under the blade will result in dragging diagonal lines as the fabric that should lie under the blade is pulled forward.
If the overall waist is too small, the shirt will tend to lie against the belly and still have fullness under the blade.
If the waist is reduced radically, the shirt still needs to be large enough  to get over the hips.If the hips are too tight, the shirt will ride up and not have the ease required to move back down during natural movement, and  it will present as either horizontal wrinkling or billowing in the lower back depending on your shape and the tightness of the shirt. 



To radically alter the fit of the shirt in the way people seem to want, would require an equally radical change to the shape of the standard pattern, and maybe the style of the shirt in general.
From what I have seen, I don't think this is happening. So perhaps being somewhat aware of the technical limitations of the pattern may help with fit expectations and issues.

I hope it helps explain things a little.
post #2949 of 5150
I would agree with you when I put on the tuxedo it just doesn't seem right all around....
post #2950 of 5150

im almost afraid to post this here, but what the hell....

 

so here's the gallery-

http://imgur.com/a/8LNJK#1

 

please forgive the terrible lighting, shirt and shoes.  would love to hear your feedback regarding the fit of the suit.

 

my own opinions are that the waist needs to come in, big time.  like well over an inch.  it doesnt taper from the shoulders at all as it needs too.  the shoulders seem to sit properly, but may be too padded.  the chest seems to fit correctly, and the sleeves id say are about a quarter inch on the short side.  the jacket length i would say is also a bit long, and could be shortened.  the trousers are long, and probably sitting too low on my waist in these photos.  the hips and thighs need to be brought in, and the length shortened.

 

these are my opinions an this thing, and would love to get some other eyes on this guy.  hopefully its not a lost cause.  

post #2951 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickleweed View Post

im almost afraid to post this here, but what the hell....

 

so here's the gallery-

http://imgur.com/a/8LNJK#1

 

please forgive the terrible lighting, shirt and shoes.  would love to hear your feedback regarding the fit of the suit.

 

It's not about 'forgiving' it, no-one's grading you - the tailors don't ask for a proper shirt and shoes and light because they want to look at a pretty picture. It's because they _can't judge the fit properly_ unless there's enough light and you're wearing appropriate accessories. You have to wear a formal shirt that fits reasonably well so they can judge the fit of the jacket against the shirt (and so the shirt isn't throwing the jacket off). Similarly for shoes and trousers: suit trousers aren't designed to fit over sneakers. And they need enough light so they can see the fit - they're looking for creases and how the jacket looks around your waist, which they literally can't see if there isn't enough light, because it just merges flat into your arms. It's particularly a problem with a very dark suit, like that one.

post #2952 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamWill View Post

 

It's not about 'forgiving' it, no-one's grading you - the tailors don't ask for a proper shirt and shoes and light because they want to look at a pretty picture. It's because they _can't judge the fit properly_ unless there's enough light and you're wearing appropriate accessories. You have to wear a formal shirt that fits reasonably well so they can judge the fit of the jacket against the shirt (and so the shirt isn't throwing the jacket off). Similarly for shoes and trousers: suit trousers aren't designed to fit over sneakers. And they need enough light so they can see the fit - they're looking for creases and how the jacket looks around your waist, which they literally can't see if there isn't enough light, because it just merges flat into your arms. It's particularly a problem with a very dark suit, like that one.

 

i know, but people tend to get hung up on things that dont necessarily matter sometimes.  thats what that preface was about.  although the lighting may be a bit difficult still, with the shadows and all that.  i boosted the exposure some.

post #2953 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by n1tsuj View Post

Back at it again this time with a Midnight Blue Tuxedo




Feedback would be great thank you!

If there's one suit you wanna get right despite the limited amount you'd wear it, it's the dinner suit...

And this one has major problems. Without just calling it a disaster, here's what you'd need to get done just to get it almost wearable:

Major work in the front balance primarily (so I think) which involves a collar recut. That's if the p2p isn't too small combined with excessive forepart waist suppression. I'd also close that center vent, but that's preference. Gotta take in the side seams up into the armholes to clean up around the blades. The jacket is short but not too short. The shirt sleeves are too long and the jacket sleeves too short. Pants probably need to be adjusted in the seat and/or rise.

Bottom line: $$$ for not the best results no matter how good the tailor.

post #2954 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickleweed View Post

im almost afraid to post this here, but what the hell....

 

so here's the gallery-

http://imgur.com/a/8LNJK#1

 

please forgive the terrible lighting, shirt and shoes.  would love to hear your feedback regarding the fit of the suit.

 

my own opinions are that the waist needs to come in, big time.  like well over an inch.  it doesnt taper from the shoulders at all as it needs too.  the shoulders seem to sit properly, but may be too padded.  the chest seems to fit correctly, and the sleeves id say are about a quarter inch on the short side.  the jacket length i would say is also a bit long, and could be shortened.  the trousers are long, and probably sitting too low on my waist in these photos.  the hips and thighs need to be brought in, and the length shortened.

 

these are my opinions an this thing, and would love to get some other eyes on this guy.  hopefully its not a lost cause.  

Decent lighting for a dark suit...go back to the very first post in the thread for pic directions. Those arms out poses are silly. No suit is going to "fit" standing like that. They aren't made to do overhead arm claps or the side straddle hop in (Any other prior service lads out there?)

post #2955 of 5150
Quote:
Originally Posted by dusttruffle View Post

Would love to here from the tailors in this thread about adjustments to shirts..

Taking in at the sides vs darts.

Thanks in advance

Depends most on where the shirt needs to be shaped. If you're hollow in the back, darts get the job done better than side seam suppression. If you're full in the back and front but have shape at your sides, side seams do it better. I wouldn't encourage front darts, but like a suit jacket, you can suppress only the forepart or backpart of a shirt. I personally put darts immediately behind and sometimes immediately in front of the sideseams because A) I hardly ever have my jacket off like a 9 year old at a wedding and B) those darts fall under the usual range of motion of the arm and aren't easily seen because of that.

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