The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 196

just got all these back from the tailor...

cross post from thrift thead would like feeback...

so I haven't done a real thrift fit in a while and I wanted to give you an update on the stuff I brought to the tailor...

southwick suit I bought a while back from someone on here (sorry I can't remember)

shirt is mtm tie is no name pin up thrifted by me shoes are alden thrifted by me shirt online mtm

I lengthened the sleeves slimmed them, nipped the waist and tapered the pants to a 7.75 opening (wish I had gone with 8...)

the thing I like most about this suit is the slightly extended soft shoulders and the long jacket as well as the slightly lower button stance (also forgive the no socks I had to hurry to get these pics before basketball...) also forgive the incredibly boring and trad styling I just went with basics as I was in a rush...

next up... andover shop blazer traded for on here, bb deadstock glenn plaid pants courtesy of casey fud (post a backpack fit...) shoes ae from ebay, tie vintage self tipped unlined silk thrifted by me

blazer just did sleeve lengthening and waist supression pant I lengthened and tapered to an 8 in opening

only difference here is the dope linen prl made in italy blazer from my homey barrel 

sleeves were perfect length on this one just did some waist suppresion

Quote:

Originally Posted by robbrechter 

Reposting with better (hopefully?) pictures. New MTM shirt from ModernTailor and need critique since I know it doesn't fit quite right.

Current concerns:

1. Shoulders feel constricting and uncomfortable. What measurement do I change for that-- shoulder? yoke? (including numerical measurements I entered for shirt)
2. The back seems a bit long, although maybe not?
3. The left side of my collar won't stay down and the tab button underneath keeps showing. Is that an issue with the collar or do I just need to iron it?
4. Sleeves look overly contorted with wrinkles, although I know the length is about right.
5. Neck feels normal but is super difficult to button, but I'm afraid I shouldn't increase the size.

And of course I'll take any feedback on clothes, but definitely need help with shirt so I can alter measurements to get my next shirt more comfortable.

More pics (Click to show)

I'll echo what everyone else already has....this shirt is too tight, indeed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bant 

recently got these trousers which are "riding up" a bit. in technical terms what is going on here and how can it be fixed?

Hard to tell from the pictures but the description of "riding up" seems to indicate that the back crotch curve is not low enough for a possibly low seat. The fix, if that is the problem, is scooping out the seat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Never2Late 

seeking any critique on this suit:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

thanks

Looks like the point to point is a little small for the broadness of your shoulders. Looks like you're going for a euro-esque fit but the narrow shoulder spread is causing the lapels to gape slightly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Stark 

[originally posted this in the wrong place - I see now that the photos aren't exactly in accordance with the guidance in the first post, so if nothing can be gleaned from these, let me know and I'll try to get them retaken tonight]

 

I'd go with darts to put shape right where it needs to go which is your lower back. Think of how a suit works...there are several seams on a jacket that give it shape. A sack suit lacks front darts so it won't really have the same chest shape as one with darts. A dress shirt has only two seams. Only so much shaping ability with just two seams. You have a curve to your lower back from your shoulders down. Some would call it sway back. You can get darts put in the shirt almost right behind the side seams so they're not so visible from the back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TweedyProf 

Tailors:

 

A general question: I find OTR trousers to usually lack the nice line from the seat to the foot in the back (the front seems easier to achieve). There tends to be bunching in the thigh back just below the seat

 

(1) Can this be tailored to create the nice line and how?

(2) what is the proper way to ensure a nice line when trousers are made.

 

Thanks
 

What it seems you're describing can result from several different factors. OTR trousers have a longer back rise to accommodate for a variety of butt shapes. The bunching usually occurs from a low seat, flat seat, or with posterior pelvic tilt. It's basically shoving all the material hanging in the back rise down below your seat. The fix could be several things at once but most often it's lowering the back rise, scooping out the seat, and possibly taking in the stride.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTCtailor 

I'd go with darts to put shape right where it needs to go which is your lower back. Think of how a suit works...there are several seams on a jacket that give it shape. A sack suit lacks front darts so it won't really have the same chest shape as one with darts. A dress shirt has only two seams. Only so much shaping ability with just two seams. You have a curve to your lower back from your shoulders down. Some would call it sway back. You can get darts put in the shirt almost right behind the side seams so they're not so visible from the back.

Thanks for the input.  Do you think I'd need to change the measurement at the waist/hips to accommodate them?  Or can I just keep the measurement profile the same and add darts?  I'm going to ask them to remake this shirt and I'll need to provide new measurements.

Any comments on the fit elsewhere, or do you agree with my assessment that it's just too tight in the chest and shoulders?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bvbrandonv 

Hey everyone!

 

I ordered a couple MTM shirt online utilizing measurements from a well fitting shirt.  My main issue, as you can see from the pics, is the extra fabric between the collar and shoulders.  I know the pic's are not great, but any suggestions on how to rectify this issue would be most appreciated.  Also, if you have comments on anything else you see as far as the fit is concerned please let me know.  I am a big fan of finally having some clothing that fit better than OTR, and think I'm very close to having some excellent shirts!  Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

 

Measurements in inches-

Collar: 15.75

Half Chest: 20.88

Half Waist: 18.25 (thinking this may be a bit to snug compared to chest)

Half Hip: 20

Sleeve: 24.75

Half Bicep: 7

Cuff: 8.5

Yoke: 17

Shoulder: 5.5

*Also going to add a bit on the arm holes as they are a bit snug.

I wonder if it's like the pesky neck roll in a jacket...which is caused by excessive slope in the shoulder line of the jacket. In this case, it looks like the cloth is collapsing at the neck. Maybe the shoulder line of the shirt is too sloped. Hard to tell. Measurements don't really tell the whole story

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninjali 

Hey SF,

 

Recently bought a SuitSupply Sienna (Suit Up Collection) Navy suit and took some pics. Would love some feedback on the fit. Please disregard the shoes and pant length as I haven't gotten them hemmed yet. Also don't mind the shirt all that much. Thanks!!

 

 

 

 

 

Getting a good jacket fit with a prominent seat definitely requires the hand of a skilled tailor. That'll be a challenge with this jacket. Also, very erect back posture looks like the back balance may be a bit long. Pants obviously need to be hemmed and possibly taken in a little in the stride.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willin 

Hmmm, so I think I definitely have Anterior Pelvic Thrust. I'll have to start telling that to the ladies.

I've had this issue for a long time. I'll try foam rolling and see where that gets me. Thank you, bmathe02. I did not anticipate a medical diagnosis when I created this post, haha.

You're dealing with what looks like extreme erect back posture, anterior pelvic tilt, prominent stomach and seat. Along with muscular build, very intense mixture for decent tailoring...

Go MTM or custom or good luck!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monimus 

Hi all,

Just got my suit back from the guys at Pal Zileri. It's from their Abito Privato line, and is three button. Was skeptical at first about having a three button suit, and would like to have your input on the fit and style of it. I'm 6"1, so the overall fit isn't very zoot-suity, even though it's three button.

Proportions look a little short...sleeves and jacket length too short for your height.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian Erickson 

just got all these back from the tailor...

cross post from thrift thead would like feeback...

 

so I haven't done a real thrift fit in a while and I wanted to give you an update on the stuff I brought to the tailor...

southwick suit I bought a while back from someone on here (sorry I can't remember)

shirt is mtm tie is no name pin up thrifted by me shoes are alden thrifted by me shirt online mtm

I lengthened the sleeves slimmed them, nipped the waist and tapered the pants to a 7.75 opening (wish I had gone with 8...)

the thing I like most about this suit is the slightly extended soft shoulders and the long jacket as well as the slightly lower button stance (also forgive the no socks I had to hurry to get these pics before basketball...) also forgive the incredibly boring and trad styling I just went with basics as I was in a rush...

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

next up... andover shop blazer traded for on here, bb deadstock glenn plaid pants courtesy of casey fud (post a backpack fit...) shoes ae from ebay, tie vintage self tipped unlined silk thrifted by me

blazer just did sleeve lengthening and waist supression pant I lengthened and tapered to an 8 in opening

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

only difference here is the dope linen prl made in italy blazer from my homey barrel 

sleeves were perfect length on this one just did some waist suppresion

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

This stuff looks pretty good...but that's what you were looking for, right?