The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 190

Quote:

Originally Posted by amgwhip123 

Question for the tailors,

 

does the p2p measurement of a jacket change once the waist has been suppressed? My tailor pinned the sides of my jacket, will this change the chest measurement? I forgot to ask him, It just occurred to me

It shouldn't unless the suppression is occuring in the chest area. When the side seams or center back seam are accessed and taken in, only the back measures p2p change. It can affect the total fit in the chest, however, especially if those seams are overworked. If it didn't change the chest fit when you were wearing it pinned up then the total chest fit should be the same when it's finished.

Quote:

Originally Posted by superego 


wut? shoulder width is the only measurement to consider here really, which looks fine. can't really account for having a big chest unless you're going custom.

that said, I'd look for something better. it's not a steal at 200, better spend a bit more to get something that will be a staple than settle just because it was cheap.

I believe the point being made is the shoulders look slightly large already and the body/waist is baggy. To complicate things, the chest is clearly too small.  The jacket must be completely reconstructed in order for it to fit properly.  The OP is best off returning the jacket while he has the opportunity and searching for a differently cut jacket.

The top block of the pants are too small for you. You probably need to go up a size and take in the waist. I'm not sure what size you are wearing, but the rise looks awfully low for Bill's M2.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coldsnap 

How should I get these Bills Khakis M2 tailored? Feels like they could come in a bit around the knees and leg opening. SW&D would probably want me to throw them away but I'm trying to start wearing roomier clothes so I can do some impromptu stretches at the office. (The shirt is too big also, sending it back just had it on at the time). These are def the roomiest things I've purchased so I'm not really sure how to play around with that silhouette.

Quote:

Originally Posted by superego 


wut? shoulder width is the only measurement to consider here really, which looks fine. can't really account for having a big chest unless you're going custom.

that said, I'd look for something better. it's not a steal at 200, better spend a bit more to get something that will be a staple than settle just because it was cheap.

Let me be a little more precise in my analysis then...

This gentleman's shoulder's are sloped due to muscular traps not because of actual "sloped/hunched" posture. This is the cause of the vertical collapsing in the cloth right in front of the shoulders. The shoulders on the jacket are not too big. The jacket is not a size too large. You just don't know what you're looking at (or do you also operate a tailoring business?) His back posture is also erect creating those vertical folds in the back. With the lapels gaping, it appears to be shoving the fronts off his chest. All of these things combined make it appear to be too large on his shoulders. It's altogether a poor fit and, to the contrary to your observation, multiple measurements or fit attributes are absolutely to be considered. A large chest or erect back posture may be cut into a certain brand make. May be hard to find and should probably just go custom, but the one things about this jacket if purchased that cannot be fixed by any sane means is giving more width to the chest. That alone makes it a deal breaker before anything else.

Thus my original comment...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballmouse 

The top block of the pants are too small for you. You probably need to go up a size and take in the waist. I'm not sure what size you are wearing, but the rise looks awfully low for Bill's M2.

 

Perhaps a bit more accurately (tho without side/back pics we can never tell)...

Probably has fairly prominent thighs and prominent seat/hips. This combo of attributes usually means more width is needed in the front of the trouser to eliminate gaping pockets. Either pleats, or a darted front is usually a good idea. Depending on how the pants are constructed (I've never seen this brand), the waistband can be offed up to the front of the trouser, the waist can be let out and all that fullness shifted to the front. You put a dart over the thigh to deal with the added fullness being shifted to the front and then reattach the waistband. Now there's fullness in the front instead of gaping at the back.

Going up a size and taking in the waist doesn't necessarily fix the problem. Also, it can add other problems like too much fullness in the crotch/seat/stride/rise 

I recently bought some shirts with darts. However the back is provided with darts, I'm still not convinced about the fit.

Can a tailor alter the shirt for me by modifying the original darts? Or does the tailor need to take the sides in?

Thanks!

Hi all.

I recently bought a new suit from a local tailor (first new one in almost ten years).  I have a tall, slender build so I typically have all my dress shirts (both button down and polos) slimmed down.  Hence, when I bought this suit I asked my tailor to recommend a brand with a slimmer fit and had the jacket taken in.  I also had to have the sleeves lengthened.

However, I'm worried I was overly aggressive as I've received a few comments that the jacket is too short or possibly too small.  It only comes to the top of the back pants pocket.  Is it too short?  I've heard the trend is to shorter jackets, so I'm wondering if this is passable or could if further alterations could help (it's non-returnable at this point).  Other comments are also welcome.

Thanks!

Yes, the jacket is too short.. but you need advice from an expert like Sir OTC.

buckshot: agree with azumi, to an amateur that looks _way_ short. there's a 'trend towards short jackets', and then there's 'barely covers the trouser waistband'. :) you also have a bad case of non-intentional 'open quarters', which is probably related to the shortness. the lapels look like they're bowing too...the whole thing just looks over-aggressive. otc may be able to tell you if it's fixable, but i'm guessing 'no'. He may also tell you it depends on how the initial alterations were done.

These are not my suit, but made by tailor shop that I am interested and got curious what you guys think of their works for a reference.