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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 187

post #2791 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldsnap View Post

How should I get these Bills Khakis M2 tailored? Feels like they could come in a bit around the knees and leg opening. SW&D would probably want me to throw them away but I'm trying to start wearing roomier clothes so I can do some impromptu stretches at the office. (The shirt is too big also, sending it back just had it on at the time). These are def the roomiest things I've purchased so I'm not really sure how to play around with that silhouette.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Besides the legs being too roomy, it looks like they are too tight in the front (see the whiskers and flaring pockets). I sometimes have the same issue due to having a large seat.

Disclaimer: I am not a tailor.
post #2792 of 5198
I've been thinking of buying a proper suit few months from now and thus been doing a lot of research into buying proper fitting suits. I have tried different variations over the past few weeks and found a some that are to my liking and aren't that costly. I know for a fact that I want a 3-piece and slim fit suit. The thing is that lately I'm worrying, if I'm thinking too slim so I thought I'd ask for an opinion here. Anyway, here's the picture for better understanding:



I like this suit the most at the moment, but do you think that the suit jacket is indeed too tight? I've had people say, that out of every suit I've tried so far, this one is the best looking but then again the people at the shop would say, that it is too tight and I should opt for a size up. Yes, I know that the "X" crease at the button indicates that a suit is too tight but other than that, the shoulders are fine, sleeves are fine and the vents are not opened etc. When trying a size larger, I don't really get the desired V effect that I'm after and I'd probably need alterations. Should I opt for a size up and let a tailor work the suit to my liking or should I just ignore the shopkeepers and go with it as is?
post #2793 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by n1tsuj View Post


What do you mean loose in the blades? Is the shoulders not right?

shoulders are fine. Loose in the blades refers to the excess fabric or folds running down the shoulder blade area in the back. Currently, I'm not looking at the photo so I'm not sure what I'm even referring to, but that's what I meant.

post #2794 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benfica View Post

Hi,

 

I recently ordered a shirt from Modern Tailor and I'm wondering what could be done to improve it. I thought I may as well throw a suit on and get some feedback on that as well. I bought the suit a few years ago in Vietnam, so I know it's far from great quality but it's what I have to work with at the moment. Here are my specifc questions and thoughts, but if you have any other advice regarding the shirt, the suit or my posture that would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Shirt

 

  • The sleeves seem to twist a fair bit. Can this be minimised, or is it normal to a degree?
  • There seems to be excess fabric/bunching around the armholes, on the front and the back of the shirt. Reduce the chest measurement?
  • Excess fabric around the lower back. I will in any case be reducing the waist measurement slightly, but would darts be needed to completley clean up the lower back?
  • What are your thoughts on the sleeve length? I'd like to have this sorted before I have the suit sleeves shortened.

 

Suit

 

  • The sleeves need to be shortened, but by how much? An inch? More?
  • The pants obviously need to be hemmed too.

 

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

Darts in the back of the shirt. Wouldn't decrease the chest measurement. The fullness is in the back, not the front. If you can have the posture adjusted, that would be the ticket for you.

The suit:

The sleeves need to be shortened at least 1 to 1.5". I would also say that they need to be slimmed which may allow you to rebuild the vent.

The balance looks good. Needs typical suppression a little in the CB seam and side seams down thru the vents. Jacket is a hair long on you, but not too bad.

Pants are too long in the back rise. Small adjustment. Also too long in total length.

post #2795 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by azumi View Post

Thank you OTC.

So with your advice, I think I get less problem with this jacket than the RLBL sport coat I posted here before. As you refer, I will get my jacket sleeves shortened 1.25" and the back length about 1.5". The last problem is the cuffs are functioned - buttons. So do you think should I ask a tailor to alter it from the shoulder? What if the sleeves are shortened from the cuffs? Is it get rid of the proportion of the cuff because the distance from the first button to the edge of the cuff isn't enough?

Doesn't that just make the whole project exciting? Working cuffs on a velvet blazer...how convenient.

When they need to be shortened that much, you're in a tough spot. First thing is to identify exactly how much each needs to be shortened. Your range at the shoulder is really only about an inch before the shape of the sleevehole is so distorted that putting it back on yields poor results.

Your options if they have to be shortened in excess of 1" are either shorten from the shoulder and the cuff or to have a good tailor (I stress good) do what we call a "cut job" where the functioning buttonhole area is actually cut right off the sleeve then resewn to a then shorter sleeve. The visual results are less than desirable for a suit jacket but still alright in the case of a sport jacket. 

Here's a visual:

http://cdn.styleforum.net/3/35/351b6865_2012-08-23_08-29-13_756.jpeg

post #2796 of 5198
I have this suit, no alterations yet. I know it needs the sleeve shortened, but what else should I have done? I thought maybe i could have it tapered a bit. Going for a half-break on the pants, do they need to be shortened?
Thanks




post #2797 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Darts in the back of the shirt. Wouldn't decrease the chest measurement. The fullness is in the back, not the front. If you can have the posture adjusted, that would be the ticket for you.

FWIW, Modern Tailor allows you to give separate front/back chest and waist measurements if you have excess fabric in the back, which may be a good option in addition to or instead of darts. This is what they suggested when I contacted them about the billowing.
post #2798 of 5198

Thanks for the quick feedback.  Here's part 2:  A teammate of mine is willing to give me this suit cheap if it works for me.  Is it any better?  The jacket feels much better, but the pants are a bit looser, though there's plenty of pant material to work with, especially on the length.

 

 

 

 

post #2799 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziminskas View Post

For me, suits are for pleasure. I'm 22 and in college, so currently, I don't need them to fulfill any professional look. I suppose that you could say that I might be allured to this particular suit, and also the other one that I have from this same designer because I, myself, am young and immature. I do see how the super high button stance, low rise pants, narrow shoulders, and short length could be problematic when considering proper fitting (I don't exactly understand why the fabric is pulling this way, but that is due to my lack of knowledg on what makes clothes fit the way they do). I suppose my question now is, is the problem the cut of the jacket, or is it my body or posture? Is there brand you could recommend that would be considered youthful and more for fashion than practicality? I have considered Tom Ford, Brunello Cucinelli, and RLPL but haven't explored other options too much. I just want to say thank you for everything you've been able to tell me, and I look forward to your response.

The problem is the cut of the jacket (and pants).

 

What college student has the money for RLPL?

post #2800 of 5198

Apologies in advance for the poor photography, and poor fit. It's PRL and cost $7.50 from the local thrift shop. Obviously an outdated style but I think with a little (OR a lot) of tailoring it could be a nice find.

 

No worries if the photos are too awkward for any of you to reach a conclusion.

 

I'm a size 40R suit (off rack), waist measures about 34 inches. Could provide more details on request. Unfortunately could not find sizing on the pants or the jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Perhaps slightly idealized.)

 

 

(When I pull the front of the jacket so that the back is taught against my body.)

 

 

(Again, pulled tight.)

 

 

(Excess on the pants.)

 

(Tent when seated.)

 

(Length when seated.)

post #2801 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewST View Post

Apologies in advance for the poor photography, and poor fit. It's PRL and cost $7.50 from the local thrift shop. Obviously an outdated style but I think with a little (OR a lot) of tailoring it could be a nice find.

 

No worries if the photos are too awkward for any of you to reach a conclusion.

 

I'm a size 40R suit (off rack), waist measures about 34 inches. Could provide more details on request. Unfortunately could not find sizing on the pants or the jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Perhaps slightly idealized.)

 

 

(When I pull the front of the jacket so that the back is taught against my body.)

 

 

(Again, pulled tight.)

 

 

(Excess on the pants.)

 

(Tent when seated.)

 

(Length when seated.)

shoulders too big in the jacket. That's the only thing you can really observe from the photos.

post #2802 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

shoulders too big in the jacket. That's the only thing you can really observe from the photos.

Yeah, they weren't so obviously big until I got the suit dry cleaned. I'm not sure what happened. What's the process like to fix them? FWIW, there's padding inside -- can I request it be removed? When I grab the shoulder I'm grabbing a handful of pad.


Edited by AndrewST - 2/9/13 at 12:52pm
post #2803 of 5198

Hi,

 

I'm interested in what your suggestions are for this suit (36S J crew factory thompson) and blazer (36S BR tailored). I am 5' 7'', 143 pounds. Neither have been tailored, so the sleeves have to be shortened on both and the suits pants have to be hemmed for less of a break. Neither have been worn or steamed, hence some of the odd wrinkles. 

 

 

I just noticed that there is this odd wrinkle around the button. I think that appeared because the jacket is slightly pulled to the side. It isn't usually there.

 

 

Same reason why there is that odd wrinkle here.

 

 

 

Here you can see how it is pulled to the side/.

 

 

 

Thanks for any feedback on fit/possible alterations. 

post #2804 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewST View Post

Yeah, they weren't so obviously big until I got the suit dry cleaned. I'm not sure what happened. What's the process like to fix them? FWIW, there's padding inside -- can I request it be removed? When I grab the shoulder I'm grabbing a handful of pad.

this suit will never look good on you...I dont care if you have the best tailor in the world. Best to get rid of it and find something that fits better before alterations.
post #2805 of 5198
Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraMagnetical View Post


this suit will never look good on you...I dont care if you have the best tailor in the world. Best to get rid of it and find something that fits better before alterations.

Probably true. Thanks.

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