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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 186

post #2776 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by romancommander View Post

Hey OTC, thanks for all the help so far. It has been great. One last question regarding the way my double vents were reconstructed. I noticed the end of it was not constructed the same way as all my other double vent suits. The ends have 4 layers of fabric instead of two. Its hard to fully explain. Here are pics, showing the difference.

This first picture shows my suit that has never been shortened. The vent is in its original condition and the end of the vent is met diagonally with the side of the vent.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



On the otherhand the side of my reconstructed vent is folded on top of the bottom of the vent.




Is one way superior to the other? I am thinking the original way as shown on my grey suit is the correct way as all my other double vent suits are finished this way. 

Would it be too much to ask my tailor to refinish the bottom of my vent?

The original angled seam is a cheaper construction. Sometimes the seams are trimmed inside and it is a pain or not possible to recreate it. I don't try to duplicate this as the bottom picture is a better way to finish the sleeve or to turn up the lower edge of the sleeve. He probably folded the vent edge over because of the way the seams were trimmed. One of the advantages of a good tailor working on your clothes is the work he does can be an improvement over the original make.
post #2777 of 5092

Hello everyone, this is my first post here and hopefully this is the right place.  I'm getting ready to finish my masters program and job fair and interview season is coming up so I figured I needed a suit.  A colleague of mine gave me this because it no longer fit him and said I could do what I want with it if it fits or I can just give it back and he'll find someone else for it.  Basically I just want to know if the things that are wrong with this suit are things that could be fixed with a trip to the tailor, or if I should give it back and find something else, my budget is only $500 and I need to buy a pair of shoes, so I'm trying to keep it relatively cheap for now.

 

I'm 5'7, 125lbs, my chest is 33in, waist is 30, and widest point around my rear is 37.  The suit is a charcoal 36r/30w, shirt is an XS from Express, and the shoes don't matter because they're at least a full size too small.  To me it looks and feels like the shirt is way too small, the jacket is way too big, and the pants are okay.  I apologize for the pictures, I'm trying to do it from a tablet.

 


 

 

 

 

post #2778 of 5092
My bad on not posting this here the first time- I will delete the stand alone thread I've made. Here's what I have on my first custom shirt:

Going backwards from what I've seen most other people do, I first got a suit from WW Chan and am only now getting around to getting my first custom shirts from them. I requested to have the first one delivered ahead in order to make changes going forward. Please the pics below - pardon the wrinkles, this is after a night out dancing. Also I folded the collar improperly, so there's that.

Couple notes- I feel like there is weird bunching around my shoulders, etc as my posture has them leaning inwards. My opinion is that there is excess fabric.. or something.. around the armhole. Also, I'm concerned it may be too slim but i'm unsure.






Thanks for any advice.
post #2779 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

I think the DB looks great. Agree with your own alteration suggestions. Also, I think you need a little less width at both blades but mostly on the left. If you're going bespoke, there's no reason to have a clean chest in the front and not have a clean back. If the armscye and shoulders are cut correctly, there not only shouldn't be much of any drape, but you also won't be that restricted in movement. Also, I personally think those vents are very wide with quite a bit of flare. You are a thin and fairly straight up and down guy so maybe that was your preference?
On the tweed jacket, something looks off with the balance. Obviously, you have a low right shoulder that I assume they'll fix? A little more room in the chest may prevent that shoulder divot.
Haven't read your debate on the hacking/ticket pockets. A lot to take into consideration there, but I primarily approach that issue from a perspective of proportion first. That is to say that a hacking pocket will soften a square shoulder line but a flat pocket stance will flatter a sloped shoulder line. If you're short, jetted pockets help with height but they would look funny on a tweed jacket. Also, a ticket pocket cuts the vertical line down which is good for taller folks not so good for shorter. 
If I were dressing you, I'd at least suggest patch pocket all the way around. Breast and lower pockets. Possibly with inverted pleats. Why? You're a fairly thin guy and the addition of those types of pockets will not only enhance the style of a tweed jacket but will also give you outward perceived breadth. It will flatter your thin-ness for lack of a better description.
The question is, in what order do you dress? Style first, proportion second or proportion first, style second?
Hope that helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

The lapel gorge angle is pretty horizontal. It's also a higher gorge line. That makes it hard to get them any wider. If the gorge were a little lower and the angle a little less horizontal, you could get wider lapels.

Thanks a lot for this feedback. I agree with the flared vents, hadn't really reflected on that. Unfortunately my tailor is not capable/willing to fix it (or I'm just not pushing hard enough). I think I can live with it. Gorge angle was not a conscious decision, but the high gorge line was. I still think more curve and belly to the lapel, without extending the peak itself further, would have worked and looked better, without bringing us into gangster territory. Never been a fan of having the breast pocket float lonely on the chest without part of it being covered by the lapel.

I decided to go the safe way with 3 patch pockets, instead of experimenting with hacking and ticket. I know the tailor executes these to my liking and will look good with this cloth. Had a second basted fitting the other day with much cleaner front. Now a 2 month wait for forward fitting. Well, well.
post #2780 of 5092

Hello and thanks in advance for the help :) 

 

I'm quite disappointed with my new suit ! I've payed 200€ to get a decent Gladson fabric and the tailor just ruined it by making the jacket very short ! He simply "Forgot" like he said, to use the updated measurements we agreed on... Beside the fact that it is short, i want your confirmation and opinions about this suit considering that i'm relatively a short guy with 5'10 in height ! Plus i would like that you detect if possible the cause behind the popped area (in red) in the last picture :)

 

Sorry for the bad quality of the images

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2781 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by doctorvai View Post

Hello and thanks in advance for the help :) 

 

I'm quite disappointed with my new suit ! I've payed 200€ to get a decent Gladson fabric and the tailor just ruined it by making the jacket very short ! He simply "Forgot" like he said, to use the updated measurements we agreed on... Beside the fact that it is short, i want your confirmation and opinions about this suit considering that i'm relatively a short guy with 5'10 in height ! Plus i would like that you detect if possible the cause behind the popped area (in red) in the last picture :)

 

Sorry for the bad quality of the images

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before I even read your post, I was thinking wow that jacket is short! IMO, it's JUST on the edge of too short and OK. Since you're a shorter guy, you can get away with it. My advice would be to consider tucking those flaps in to lengthen the look of the jacket's vertical line in the front. Currently, the pockets break it up.

Regarding the area in the neck/shoulders, it's hard to tell with the photos but it looks like they're over-sloped for your shoulder posture. It could be combined with another problem that I'm not easily able to explain.

Despos would know a lot more specifically what is causing this.

post #2782 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsoftz View Post

My bad on not posting this here the first time- I will delete the stand alone thread I've made. Here's what I have on my first custom shirt:

Going backwards from what I've seen most other people do, I first got a suit from WW Chan and am only now getting around to getting my first custom shirts from them. I requested to have the first one delivered ahead in order to make changes going forward. Please the pics below - pardon the wrinkles, this is after a night out dancing. Also I folded the collar improperly, so there's that.

Couple notes- I feel like there is weird bunching around my shoulders, etc as my posture has them leaning inwards. My opinion is that there is excess fabric.. or something.. around the armhole. Also, I'm concerned it may be too slim but i'm unsure.






Thanks for any advice.

Definitely too tight around the midsection. I think the tightness is riding up thru your chest causing the fabric to bunch underneath your armholes. 

post #2783 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by plainnerd View Post

Hello everyone, this is my first post here and hopefully this is the right place.  I'm getting ready to finish my masters program and job fair and interview season is coming up so I figured I needed a suit.  A colleague of mine gave me this because it no longer fit him and said I could do what I want with it if it fits or I can just give it back and he'll find someone else for it.  Basically I just want to know if the things that are wrong with this suit are things that could be fixed with a trip to the tailor, or if I should give it back and find something else, my budget is only $500 and I need to buy a pair of shoes, so I'm trying to keep it relatively cheap for now.

 

I'm 5'7, 125lbs, my chest is 33in, waist is 30, and widest point around my rear is 37.  The suit is a charcoal 36r/30w, shirt is an XS from Express, and the shoes don't matter because they're at least a full size too small.  To me it looks and feels like the shirt is way too small, the jacket is way too big, and the pants are okay.  I apologize for the pictures, I'm trying to do it from a tablet.

 


 

 

 

 

Yes, the jacket is too big and shirt too small. Pants you could mess with, but the jacket is too wide in the shoulders. You'll never get enough suppression to make it fit quite right.

You're at a tough size range for your frame size/height. Check your measurements against measurements of a suit you like from this ebay search for 34S suits. I don't know where else you can find a suit that small except on ebay. If you'd like help, shoot me a PM.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Suits-/3001/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=34S+suit

 

This image should be some healthy motivation for you ffffuuuu.gif

 

post #2784 of 5092

Hello OTC, good day to you.

Today I need your help about my new blazer that I've received ( a velvet blazer of Burberry which I intend to wear when I go out at night). I know that only size 36S would fit me but I still bought this 36R blazer, though.

I know the back length and sleeve length are little too long and I will have to shorten them. But how long should I ask my tailor to alter, 1 inch for the sleeve length and about 2 inch for the back length?

And could you please figure out that how this jacket fit me at my chest, back and waist, etc.

Thank you very much.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know it seems to be a little difficult to scrutinize because of the green door behind me (but my wife who take these photos is getting angry). So if you need more pics, pls tell me to post more.

post #2785 of 5092

Hello hello, 

I need some feedback on an Indochino suit. I'm starting work soon and would like to have a remake (if necessary) in my hands before I start. My main concern is with the arms and shoulders - I cant tell if the shoulders are too wide and whether or not I should have the arms/armholes slimmed down. I was also planning on getting the button stance lowered (to elongate my torso) and having the armholes raised.

 

Also, if any of you can provide a general figure of how much I should request to have any part of the jacket taken in or let out by, it would be much appreciated (I have a horrible sense of visualizing measurements).

 

Full album with more pics is available here: http://imgur.com/a/gKu5T

 

 

 


Edited by 3dg3 - 2/6/13 at 11:32pm
post #2786 of 5092

Hello, just got new suit from Charles Tyrwhitt, size 40L in tailored fit. Seems ok to me except for the break looks to be bunching a little much, would shortening fix. Jacket could perhaps be a little longer in the body but cant do much about that. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

post #2787 of 5092
Quote:
Originally Posted by azumi View Post

Hello OTC, good day to you.

Today I need your help about my new blazer that I've received ( a velvet blazer of Burberry which I intend to wear when I go out at night). I know that only size 36S would fit me but I still bought this 36R blazer, though.

I know the back length and sleeve length are little too long and I will have to shorten them. But how long should I ask my tailor to alter, 1 inch for the sleeve length and about 2 inch for the back length?

And could you please figure out that how this jacket fit me at my chest, back and waist, etc.

Thank you very much.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know it seems to be a little difficult to scrutinize because of the green door behind me (but my wife who take these photos is getting angry). So if you need more pics, pls tell me to post more.

 

 

Every now and again I read random posts on craigslist in the lost connections about going to "the green door" to meet up. I've never known what that meant, until now...

Anyway...

The jacket sleeves are more than 1 inch too long. Maybe 1 1/4" or so. The length of the jacket itself isn't bad. You could mess with it and get it shortened up to an inch all the way around for an accurate length or even up to 2 inches if you want to be fashionable, but that's it.

Your posture is a tough one to deal with anything RTW. It's semi-erect with a slight forward pitch in your shoulders and neck. Then your lower back as a sharp curve to it before hitting a semi-prominent seat then a little bit of sway back goin on. There's tightness over the upper back and the back is a little long because the curve of your back is short. The seams appear overworked but they probably aren't. It's just trying to follow the curve in your back. To really fix all that may not exactly be all the possible. I don't think it needs anymore suppression at all, so I'd just get those sleeves shortened and the jacket length is preference

post #2788 of 5092

Thank you OTC.

So with your advice, I think I get less problem with this jacket than the RLBL sport coat I posted here before. As you refer, I will get my jacket sleeves shortened 1.25" and the back length about 1.5". The last problem is the cuffs are functioned - buttons. So do you think should I ask a tailor to alter it from the shoulder? What if the sleeves are shortened from the cuffs? Is it get rid of the proportion of the cuff because the distance from the first button to the edge of the cuff isn't enough?

post #2789 of 5092

Thank you OTC Tailor for your advice concerning my post above ! Anyway, i think that StyleForum should adopt a "Thanks Meter" like it's the case in XDA! It's very usefull and easy to use and and and...

 

Please consider this !

post #2790 of 5092
How should I get these Bills Khakis M2 tailored? Feels like they could come in a bit around the knees and leg opening. SW&D would probably want me to throw them away but I'm trying to start wearing roomier clothes so I can do some impromptu stretches at the office. (The shirt is too big also, sending it back just had it on at the time). These are def the roomiest things I've purchased so I'm not really sure how to play around with that silhouette.


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