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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 185

post #2761 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post

Yeah, that's a problem. To properly evaluate how stuff fits, you need to be standing how you actually stand, not how you maybe should stand.

Ill retake the gray one, since I have it now. Tool the blue to another tailor to fix right. Lesson learned about the first one.
post #2762 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post

Yeah, that's a problem. To properly evaluate how stuff fits, you need to be standing how you actually stand, not how you maybe should stand.

Ill retake the gray one, since I have it now. Tool the blue to another tailor to fix right. Lesson learned about the first one.
post #2763 of 5202

I was able to retake the photos, hopefully it helps. Thanks for the look OTC.

 

As far as the navy one, now that I'm on the phone I can explain the problem. I took it to someone who was recommended by a close family friend. I trust his opinion so I trusted his judgement in taking it to a certain tailor.

The blue suit was from thrifting, and needed some work. The issues were the jacket needed to be let out for my weight, sleeves shortened, and the pants needed to be patched for a hole (about the size of a dime, cut shorter and hemmed.

I had the suit done, and today when I took it to the dry cleaner after taking last nights photos I noticed the sleeves were not sewn shut or had broken open already (less than 12 hours after picking it up and when I only wore it for the final in store assessment and photo), the back right shoulder may have been taken out 1 inch more than the left shoulder and the pants patch was really really poorly done. She hacked the inside of the pants for patch material (where the seat is) instead of using the shortened pants piece and created a mess of fabric and thread in the pants. Although I doubt I'll ever need the seat of the pants adjusted, this was not the way to patch it. I was in a hurry to get home and I didn't properly check the pants--I only inspected the outside. Lesson learned.

I went back to take my second suit from the tailor before they altered it (my third overall that has yet to be photographed). I couldn't get my money back I prepaid for the alterations, but I didn't have to face a damaged and poorly altered suit when I came back to get it so I consider it a win.

 

Anyway, heres the one I currently have. Saturday I'll post both of the thrifting suits (the already mentioned navy headache, and the one I saved from the hacking.)


Thanks again OTC. The last one is with the jacket open, which how I might end up wearing it most often in Miami because of the heat

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

post #2764 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziminskas View Post

Hi, thank you for your response. The jacket has been altered, but the button stance and length are original. However, I believe that the suit is supposed to be this length, and the buttons are supposed to be there. The suit is the same as the one worn by Ryan Gosling in Crazy Stupid Love, and in the movie, the button and length of his jacket are identical to mine (or at least as far as I can tell). I could be wrong, but I believe that the jacket is supposed to have narrow shoulders, high buttons, and short length. I assume this because the jacket that Gosling wore in the movie was made specifically for him based on that style. Please let me know what you think. Thank you very much.










Also, here are some pictures of the suit on a model. I assume that this is how the suit is intended to look, as these picutures were for promotion.




CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
I understand the allure of the suit in the movie and the character portrayed therein as well, but the fact is that the proportions of the jacket especially that you posted pics of yourself in are very off. Even in the pics of the models....can't you see how the proportions are off??? The super high button stance is almost like they're trying to make a 3 button suit into a 2 button. The top button is nowhere near the natural waist. Instead its at a critically bad area right under the chest. As a consequence, there are diagonal drag and pull lines all over the place. Also, with the low rise pants you can see that tragic triangle of shirt exposed at the waist. It looks young in an immature way. Who can take that seriously? Granted I'm not saying you need to full tilt savile row bespoke house standard with your proportions and design. I understand the fashion. Look at my personal pics. But this is on the extreme and not only are you trying to gain a result with alterations that really isn't possible but you're wasting time and money on something u can only wear if you're a Ryan Gosling type character portrayed in that movie. That suit has zero position just about anywhere else. The attributes on it that are designed to be eye catching are overwhelmed by the negative eye catching features. Of course, the fashion aspect is my opinion. The proportions and what you're trying to achieve with alterations combined with your body posture are not as achievable and this is more fact than opinion.
post #2765 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post


I understand the allure of the suit in the movie and the character portrayed therein as well, but the fact is that the proportions of the jacket especially that you posted pics of yourself in are very off. Even in the pics of the models....can't you see how the proportions are off??? The super high button stance is almost like they're trying to make a 3 button suit into a 2 button. The top button is nowhere near the natural waist. Instead its at a critically bad area right under the chest. As a consequence, there are diagonal drag and pull lines all over the place. Also, with the low rise pants you can see that tragic triangle of shirt exposed at the waist. It looks young in an immature way. Who can take that seriously? Granted I'm not saying you need to full tilt savile row bespoke house standard with your proportions and design. I understand the fashion. Look at my personal pics. But this is on the extreme and not only are you trying to gain a result with alterations that really isn't possible but you're wasting time and money on something u can only wear if you're a Ryan Gosling type character portrayed in that movie. That suit has zero position just about anywhere else. The attributes on it that are designed to be eye catching are overwhelmed by the negative eye catching features. Of course, the fashion aspect is my opinion. The proportions and what you're trying to achieve with alterations combined with your body posture are not as achievable and this is more fact than opinion.

For me, suits are for pleasure. I'm 22 and in college, so currently, I don't need them to fulfill any professional look. I suppose that you could say that I might be allured to this particular suit, and also the other one that I have from this same designer because I, myself, am young and immature. I do see how the super high button stance, low rise pants, narrow shoulders, and short length could be problematic when considering proper fitting (I don't exactly understand why the fabric is pulling this way, but that is due to my lack of knowledg on what makes clothes fit the way they do). I suppose my question now is, is the problem the cut of the jacket, or is it my body or posture? Is there brand you could recommend that would be considered youthful and more for fashion than practicality? I have considered Tom Ford, Brunello Cucinelli, and RLPL but haven't explored other options too much. I just want to say thank you for everything you've been able to tell me, and I look forward to your response.

post #2766 of 5202

Hey OTC, thanks for all the help so far. It has been great. One last question regarding the way my double vents were reconstructed. I noticed the end of it was not constructed the same way as all my other double vent suits. The ends have 4 layers of fabric instead of two. Its hard to fully explain. Here are pics, showing the difference.

 

This first picture shows my suit that has never been shortened. The vent is in its original condition and the end of the vent is met diagonally with the side of the vent.

 

 

 

On the otherhand the side of my reconstructed vent is folded on top of the bottom of the vent.

 

 

 

Is one way superior to the other? I am thinking the original way as shown on my grey suit is the correct way as all my other double vent suits are finished this way. 

 

Would it be too much to ask my tailor to refinish the bottom of my vent?

post #2767 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Square the shoulders to shorten the back balance to kill that collar gap. Suppress the back thru the waist. Ask the tailor to do this straight thru the vents to decrease their width. 

Thanks so much.  I finally had the time to take a good look at the jacket in a mirror after reading your suggestions here and in the PM you sent me.  I see what you were talking about and will give it a go.

post #2768 of 5202
Hitting this with a bump just in case anyone else wants to weigh in.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by otc View Post

Hey guys-- thanks for everything you have already done for this forum smile.gif

I've got something to throw in the ring. Is this salvagable? I've been looking for a cotton khaki suit for a while and this was marked down super cheap so I'm willing to throw some money at tailoring it, but otherwise, I can still return it to the store.

I am kind of hard to fit into clothing (I met Despos at a dinner a while back and he made some comment as to that the minute I stood up). My shoulders are pretty square and I am barrel chested so things tend to either pull in the chest or be too big everywhere else...and my outer quads are relatively large which makes pants fit funny (usually the pockets pull open and they are pretty taught across the front)

Buttoned up:




Arms out:


Button open

Button Open Side:

Button Open Back:


Just the pants:



Pants and sleeve ends are unfinished so those can be put to any length (I just folded the pants in to an approximate hem). There is a fold across the back behind the neck that I usually have to have fixed by taking in fabric at the collar. The lapels start to bend a little bit but it is not horrible (and may be acceptable to me in a casual cotton suit).

Pants look pretty bad though....seem so full in the top block and yet the pockets still pull open. Can this be fixed? I suck at pants frown.gif
post #2769 of 5202

Can you please tell me if this suit is fits right?  Is it OK?

First set of photos are jacket buttoned,  second set is jacket open.  

Please excuse the fact that nothing is hemmed, basting threads not removed, etc.

Any advice most gratefully appreciated!!
 

Also--if there is a better thread to ask this--please re-direct me, thank you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2770 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by romancommander View Post

Hey OTC, thanks for all the help so far. It has been great. One last question regarding the way my double vents were reconstructed. I noticed the end of it was not constructed the same way as all my other double vent suits. The ends have 4 layers of fabric instead of two. Its hard to fully explain. Here are pics, showing the difference.

This first picture shows my suit that has never been shortened. The vent is in its original condition and the end of the vent is met diagonally with the side of the vent.





On the otherhand the side of my reconstructed vent is folded on top of the bottom of the vent.





Is one way superior to the other? I am thinking the original way as shown on my grey suit is the correct way as all my other double vent suits are finished this way. 

Would it be too much to ask my tailor to refinish the bottom of my vent?
It would be money pointlessly spent. Neither finishing method is inferior or superior to the other. One is mitred corner finish the other is just sort of tucked under and sewn.
post #2771 of 5202

I bought a wonderfull Zegna Couture Suit today and straightly brought it to my tailor.

As you may know the sleeves are undone and there is only a vent at the sleeve bottom, meaning the Tailor should sew the working buttons on to them. Speaking of that, I was assuming that one could shorten those sleeves from the bottom, as there are no buttons attached yet!


My Tailor said this is not possible, and he needs to shorten from the top/shoulder. Although he has done this before, you can imagine that I am concerned of the Spalla Camicica getting put back together properly :D

 

Now I have read this post, where it is told that the vent can be redone with separate material. How is this possible without dealing with the problem of the sleeve vent as you make it higher?

 


Whats then the sense of selling 3k $ Suits with undone sleeves if they dont leave enough material at the bottom? :D

What are your thoughts on this?

 

THX in advance!

post #2772 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelyork View Post

Can you please tell me if this suit is fits right?  Is it OK?
First set of photos are jacket buttoned,  second set is jacket open.  
Please excuse the fact that nothing is hemmed, basting threads not removed, etc.
Any advice most gratefully appreciated!!

 
Also--if there is a better thread to ask this--please re-direct me, thank you.

































There seems to be a slight issue near the crotch/rear.

The shoulders are not correct, maybe due to square shoulders. The tailor needs to fix that.
post #2773 of 5202
Quote:
The shoulders are not correct, maybe due to square shoulders. The tailor needs to fix that.

What's wrong with the shoulders?


They look pretty good to me
post #2774 of 5202

Hi,

 

I recently ordered a shirt from Modern Tailor and I'm wondering what could be done to improve it. I thought I may as well throw a suit on and get some feedback on that as well. I bought the suit a few years ago in Vietnam, so I know it's far from great quality but it's what I have to work with at the moment. Here are my specifc questions and thoughts, but if you have any other advice regarding the shirt, the suit or my posture that would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Shirt

 

  • The sleeves seem to twist a fair bit. Can this be minimised, or is it normal to a degree?
  • There seems to be excess fabric/bunching around the armholes, on the front and the back of the shirt. Reduce the chest measurement?
  • Excess fabric around the lower back. I will in any case be reducing the waist measurement slightly, but would darts be needed to completley clean up the lower back?
  • What are your thoughts on the sleeve length? I'd like to have this sorted before I have the suit sleeves shortened.

 

Suit

 

  • The sleeves need to be shortened, but by how much? An inch? More?
  • The pants obviously need to be hemmed too.

 

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

DBP

post #2775 of 5202
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

It looks a little tight across the upper back, but loose in the blades. The back balance a little long. Shortening may elp the gaping vent. THe sleeves could be slimmed a little at the back seam. Maybe the seat is loose or the back rise is a little long. The pants are a little long IMO.
The girl looks proud to be at your side lol8%5B1%5D.gif

What do you mean loose in the blades? Is the shoulders not right?
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