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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 184

post #2746 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Probably caused by a large shoulder blade that pulls the back up on one side. Pressing will have no effect if this is the cause. Can only guess without a picture.

 

I will try and take some pictures. It happens when it is on a hanger and if you threw it in a pile it would naturally fold this way if that makes a difference.

post #2747 of 5135

It doesn't look as egregious when it's worn but it is really starting to bother me. I have another jacket from the same maker in the same cut that does not have this problem. The only difference I can tell is that the center seam is busted in the other jacket but not so in this one. The seam is lapped? and pressed towards the side that tents.

 

 

post #2748 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziminskas View Post

Hi, I need some help/advice on how to make a jacket of mine fit better. The main problem that I have with the jacket is that around my collar bones, the lapels "bow out." If I stand still, with my arms down, typically the lapels don't stick out too much; but if I make any movement with my arms, they really start to pull. The jacket has been altered....twice. First, the back was taken in (not the middle seam, but the seam on each side of my back) and the sleeves were slimmed down. After I got it back, I felt that it was too snug, so I took it back and the sides were let out a little. I have attached a link to another thread I started that was addressing this issue in a different part of the forum. There are different pictures in that thread, showing what happens when I move. Thanks!

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/333212/need-help-advice-on-how-to-fix-bowing-out-of-lapels

 

 

 

 

There are a lot of problems with this jacket. Most of them not correctable. The thing that struck me immediately was how high the button stance was. Then I saw how short the jacket was.

The fact is, this jacket is absolutely the wrong size for you. The extreme issue with length proportions in this jacket is what's causing most of your problems. The waist area of this jacket is almost where your lower chest is. There isn't enough total width there in the chest which is why those lapels are bowing. The other major problem is that the shoulder width is too narrow. You can't miss it in the back. I can't tell if it's just too small for you or if it was taken in and now there's not enough back width to fit over your blades. The jacket is probably 3 inches too short. Did you buy it this way or was it altered?

post #2749 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by ICrane View Post

Hi everyone. I just received my first shirt from Modern Tailor (forgive the wrinkles) and would appreciate some feedback. The sleeves feel a little too long, but otherwise it seems to be ok. What do you think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think the shirt looks good. A little tight in the neck? And the sleeve length probably feels too long because the cuffs could and should go a little tighter.

post #2750 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by nautikal View Post


I have the same issue as romancommander (hollow back and prominent seat). Would a center vent as opposed to side vents help avoid this problem for future suits? Of course you still have to be careful to avoid the vent opening, but maybe it will make the seat look smaller by hugging the body on the sides?

I don't like center vents because they gape more easily than double vents. When someone is built with a hollow lower back and prominent seat, suppressing the waist from the sides and center seam is a little harder and you have limits. You're trying to get shape in the front of the jacket so you can easily overwork the seams. What I do is adjust the sides lightly and then if the front is still loose, I'll adjust the front darts or even add a dart underneath the arm right behind the existing underarm dart. This new dart sits closer to the front of the jacket and gives you more suppression in the front while leave the back a little more draped over the seat. Best result is on a non-vented jacket, then a double vented jacket, and IMO last is single vented..

post #2751 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubby34 View Post

Hi,

I just started googling because I wanted a more custom fit suit and didn't know how they should properly fit. With alot of help on this forum, I was able to finally figure out why some suits have boxy shoulders (I don't like them) and to only try on the ones I wanted- (Natural Shoulders I believe it was called).

 

Anyway, I recently picked up 3 suits and am curious as to how the fit looks. I know I'm a bit round in the midsection, so I will have to work on that. Any advice is appreciated. I have one suit left at the alterations place and I'm going to pick it up tomorrow.

 

The first one is Gray and I had it altered by Macy's here in Miami. They altered the sleeve length, opened up the jacket a bit to fit better and hemmed the pants. It is originally a 48R

 

The second one pictured (Navy Pinstriped) I bought at a thrift store for $30. It's a Michael Kors and it fit well enough to warrant buying and attempting to alter it to fit perfectly. This one was originally a 46R. I have not dry cleaned or pressed it- I actually bought it yesterday, had it tailored today and will be cleaning it and pressing it tomorrow. The alterations they did on it was to open up the back and sides, shorten the sleeves, hem the pants.

 

I know I'm carrying a spare tire, so don't worry about offending me. I got thick skin....(get it?).

Thanks fellas,

Chris

 

PS. I just looked at the photos, I'm not sure why it seems MY left shoulder looks lower than my right. If you want me to retake photos I'll be happy to do that. Thanks for all your help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You have a very erect back posture making these jackets too long in the back balance. The whole back needs to be shortened. It's worse on the darker suit. Also, there's still quite a bit of tightness at the midsection in the back transitioning into the chest area. Obvious on both but worse on the lighter suit. I imagine they let them out as far as they could go and both are off the rack with very little allowance to let out. Your shoulder is low either by nature of you being left handed? Or it's camera angle creating the impression of a low shoulder. Not sure which.

Your best bet here is to "work on that" midsection area as you said and have the jackets altered for super erect back posture. It's a fairly significant fix. not worth it until you lose weight, tho, IMO.

post #2752 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMartNJ View Post

It doesn't look as egregious when it's worn but it is really starting to bother me. I have another jacket from the same maker in the same cut that does not have this problem. The only difference I can tell is that the center seam is busted in the other jacket but not so in this one. The seam is lapped? and pressed towards the side that tents.

 

 

Did you steam the jacket? Maybe the seam is blown. It very well may not be pressed correctly. The other possibility is that it was taken in at the CB along with sideseam suppression more in the waist region than in the seat. This shortens the area slightly where it was taken in more and can cause the vent to kick out in the back. I've done this by mistake in my own jackets. WIth a prominent seat (don't know if you deal with this), I'm usually suppressing the forepart of the jacket more than the back. Have to take in the back parts of the jacket very carefully or they'll appear overworked and misshapen. If you deal with that, there are multiple ways to suppress a jacket from the front. There's a second tailors' tutorial thread that talks about this.

post #2753 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by otc View Post


I mostly just mean that I suck at finding pants that fit without issue.
I'm ok with the front length being on the short side...it will be worn casually .

It sounds like maybe it can be made workable? Looking at the pictures now, it just seems to make it look like I am 20lbs heavier when it is buttoned in the front and like I am a square wooden block from the back.

When I say the fronts are too short, it's a matter that has to do with the balance of the jacket, not so much its actual length. When you look at the flaps in the front from the button point downward you see that they are starting to shift on the button as a fulcrum like a pair of scissors. It's good that you're wearing casually because there really isn't much you can do to fix it. It's also that way from being too tight in the chest. If you suppress the waist, it could make it a little worse if not done right. Fixing the shape in the back of the jacket will really help.

post #2754 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

Did you steam the jacket? Maybe the seam is blown. It very well may not be pressed correctly. The other possibility is that it was taken in at the CB along with sideseam suppression more in the waist region than in the seat. This shortens the area slightly where it was taken in more and can cause the vent to kick out in the back. I've done this by mistake in my own jackets. WIth a prominent seat (don't know if you deal with this), I'm usually suppressing the forepart of the jacket more than the back. Have to take in the back parts of the jacket very carefully or they'll appear overworked and misshapen. If you deal with that, there are multiple ways to suppress a jacket from the front. There's a second tailors' tutorial thread that talks about this.

 

I have had this jacket taken in just under the arms and let out in the back due to my big butt though I can't remember how she did it. She made marks just above the vents. I am not sure but I believe the problem was present before all of that though, should I just have it professionally pressed?

post #2755 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by newsuitguy View Post

Some feedback welcome on this suit.

 

Thinking I'll go a bit bigger around the knees (.25 to .5). That's the only thing that feels off to me though I'm sure expert eyes would see more.

 

The rest fits comfortably enough so I'm reasonably happy. 

 

Back of suit hopelessly rumpled. 

 

The back balance looks a little long from you having erect posture. Not that bad, though. The vertical wrinkles in the back of the jacket can be removed. The whole front of the suit looks like it needs a little more width from the chest down to the bottom. The lapels are gaping and so is the area below the closure. The back of the pants can be fixed by shortening the back rise. Maybe taking in the waist and seat a little..? The crotch is a little droopy. They're also too long. Way too long. The knees don't look tight but that is a matter of comfort. It might help when the back rise is fixed.

post #2756 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by n1tsuj View Post

Just got a MTM suit

Do you folks think it needs any alterations?





opinions would be most appreciated thanks. happy.gif

It looks a little tight across the upper back, but loose in the blades. The back balance a little long. Shortening may help the gaping vent. THe sleeves could be slimmed a little at the back seam. Maybe the seat is loose or the back rise is a little long. The pants are a little long IMO.

The girl looks proud to be at your side lol8[1].gif

post #2757 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

You have a very erect back posture making these jackets too long in the back balance. The whole back needs to be shortened. It's worse on the darker suit. Also, there's still quite a bit of tightness at the midsection in the back transitioning into the chest area. Obvious on both but worse on the lighter suit. I imagine they let them out as far as they could go and both are off the rack with very little allowance to let out. Your shoulder is low either by nature of you being left handed? Or it's camera angle creating the impression of a low shoulder. Not sure which.
Your best bet here is to "work on that" midsection area as you said and have the jackets altered for super erect back posture. It's a fairly significant fix. not worth it until you lose weight, tho, IMO.
That erect posture may be from my fiancé telling me to stand up straight. I can retake the photos but I'm not happy with the alteration work that was done. Not nessisadily what but how she did it and its quality. I looked at the suit jacket sleeve and it wasn't sewn properly so it opened up. I also believe on the blue one it has more fabric on the back right shoulder than the left (I'm a righty by the way).

Thanks for your help. When I said there would be a better me in 2013 I guess I meant it. Time to lose weight and actually wear a suit for once.

Thanks OTC!
post #2758 of 5135

Thanks OTC.

post #2759 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTCtailor View Post

There are a lot of problems with this jacket. Most of them not correctable. The thing that struck me immediately was how high the button stance was. Then I saw how short the jacket was.

The fact is, this jacket is absolutely the wrong size for you. The extreme issue with length proportions in this jacket is what's causing most of your problems. The waist area of this jacket is almost where your lower chest is. There isn't enough total width there in the chest which is why those lapels are bowing. The other major problem is that the shoulder width is too narrow. You can't miss it in the back. I can't tell if it's just too small for you or if it was taken in and now there's not enough back width to fit over your blades. The jacket is probably 3 inches too short. Did you buy it this way or was it altered?

Hi, thank you for your response. The jacket has been altered, but the button stance and length are original. However, I believe that the suit is supposed to be this length, and the buttons are supposed to be there. The suit is the same as the one worn by Ryan Gosling in Crazy Stupid Love, and in the movie, the button and length of his jacket are identical to mine (or at least as far as I can tell). I could be wrong, but I believe that the jacket is supposed to have narrow shoulders, high buttons, and short length. I assume this because the jacket that Gosling wore in the movie was made specifically for him based on that style. Please let me know what you think. Thank you very much.

 

 

 

 

Also, here are some pictures of the suit on a model. I assume that this is how the suit is intended to look, as these picutures were for promotion.

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95

post #2760 of 5135
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubby34 View Post

That erect posture may be from my fiancé telling me to stand up straight.

Yeah, that's a problem. To properly evaluate how stuff fits, you need to be standing how you actually stand, not how you maybe should stand.
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