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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 19

post #271 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

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Thoughts?

the front picture shows, that its much too large in front at least. you dont have a back view.
from the side view, the back does not look so bad. just cant be sure.
that front would make for a major alteration.
post #272 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by svisj View Post

First post ever, so I'm sorry if I'm breaking any etiquette or rules.

 

Anyhow, just bought new Corneliani suit on sale, and I plan to take it to the tailor for some adjustments. I have some ideas myself, but would like to get some feedback from someone who actually has a clue.

 

I hope the pictures are satisfactory, and if not, please let me know and i will gear up and take some new ones.

 

 

 

 

Front.pngBack.png

Side left.pngSide.png

Front, no jacket.pngBack, no jacket.pngSide, no jacket.png

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Shoes1.png

 

 

 

 

 

 <<br />
the sleeves do need to be shortened. be sure to wear dress shirt sleeves at the right length when being fitted.
yours is a slightly round back that is puling up the bottom of the back slightly.
but your head and neck are erect, causing that lump of cloth to stick up.
the back needs to be shortened at the top, but only enough to remove that lump of cloth. you dont want to pull the back up any more.
the waist has good shaping.
but the trousers look tight in the hips and waist.

post #273 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTM View Post

Dear contributors,
thank you very much for your enlightened comments to the various items on this thread.
Submitted for your scrutiny, please find enclosed a wool suit, a linen suit and a linen blazer.
Wool:
474
- Side and back views: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
474
474
474
Linen suit:
474
- Side and back views Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
474
474
474
Linen blazer:
474
- Side and back views Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
474
474
474
Feedback would be most welcome!

all three jackets need the sleeves to be shortened. the linen trousers need to be shortened.
cant tell much else,except that you have a slightly right low shoulder.
post #274 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

the front picture shows, that its much too large in front at least. you dont have a back view.
from the side view, the back does not look so bad. just cant be sure.
that front would make for a major alteration.

Thank you. smile.gif

Where is it too big in the front? I thought it was a little snug in the chest area actually...
post #275 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

make them about 2 inches longer. do you stack your jeans also?

Is this an attempt at a lulz post?

Anyhow, I just got them hemmed. Looks much better. Thanks for the help.
post #276 of 4779
As I have iterated in the thread on this jacket, I know that thre are a lot of issues with it, but I was hoping that someone here might give me a little feedback so that I can start letting it percolate for my next attempt (if there is one).

600
700700
621 P.S. (Click to show)
I know this would be more suited to the C&T beginners forum, but I am not allowed to post jacket topics there as I am too amatuerish and I jumped into this before doing any waistcoats. I figured that since it is technically at the point that it can be worn for modeling purposes it might be okay to post it in this thread - if not, sorry. Feedback appreciated.
post #277 of 4779

I just thrifted this Givenchy sport coat this weekend and I'm curious to see what the tailors here think about the fit.  I definitely need to lengthen the arms.  I've noticed the vent is flaring and I was wondering what causes that and how to fix it.  Thanks in advance for your input.


IMG_0856.jpg  IMG_0859.jpg

 

IMG_0861.jpg  IMG_0858.jpg

post #278 of 4779

Hello everyone.

 

My continuing thanks to the tailors who continue such an informative thread. This post is also about an issue I have with my pants, but to illustrate it I'll actually be posting a screen cap from season one of Put This On.

 

I noticed when I had some pants tailored, and had them tapered on the leg, I got the rippling on one side of the hem, just as Mr. Thom Browne (himself!) has on his leg.

 

My questions are:

1. What is the cause of this? I ask because pants off the rack don't have this.

2. Can this be avoided when having a tailor taper the leg of the pants? I don't find these ripples aesthetically pleasing.

3. If this can't be avoided, what can minimize it? i.e. decreasing the amount of taper, requesting a certain stitching, etc. As you can tell I'm a tailoring neophyte, so I'm open to the idea that a method to control this (if it exists) might be something I have yet to even consider.

 

The picture is as follows, notice that the fabric on the bottom of the hem is smooth, but the fabric above the hem ripples:

 

TB Ripple.png

 

If this has been answered elsewhere, as I suspect it might be a question others have had, please kindly post a link, I would appreciate it.

 

Any feedback from anyone would be greatly appreciated! 

 

Regards,

Ron

post #279 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trainwreck View Post

I just thrifted this Givenchy sport coat this weekend and I'm curious to see what the tailors here think about the fit.  I definitely need to lengthen the arms.  I've noticed the vent is flaring and I was wondering what causes that and how to fix it.  Thanks in advance for your input

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




The front balance is short and the back is long and doesn't work due to your erect posture. This is what causes the vent to splay open. The jacket is too far off to correct this properly
post #280 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorpomon View Post

Hello everyone.

 

My continuing thanks to the tailors who continue such an informative thread. This post is also about an issue I have with my pants, but to illustrate it I'll actually be posting a screen cap from season one of Put This On.

 

I noticed when I had some pants tailored, and had them tapered on the leg, I got the rippling on one side of the hem, just as Mr. Thom Browne (himself!) has on his leg.

 

My questions are:

1. What is the cause of this? I ask because pants off the rack don't have this.

2. Can this be avoided when having a tailor taper the leg of the pants? I don't find these ripples aesthetically pleasing.

3. If this can't be avoided, what can minimize it? i.e. decreasing the amount of taper, requesting a certain stitching, etc. As you can tell I'm a tailoring neophyte, so I'm open to the idea that a method to control this (if it exists) might be something I have yet to even consider.

 

The picture is as follows, notice that the fabric on the bottom of the hem is smooth, but the fabric above the hem ripples:

 

TB Ripple.png

 

If this has been answered elsewhere, as I suspect it might be a question others have had, please kindly post a link, I would appreciate it.

 

Any feedback from anyone would be greatly appreciated! 

 

Regards,

Ron


This is not a problem and the seam should look this way. From the knee up to the crotch the back part of the trouser is stretched and fullness applied to the top part.This is done to accommodate the curve of the back part and the straightness of the front part when sewing the two parts together. That your other trousers don't show this is the flaw.

by the way, that is not the hem. The hem is the bottom of the trouser where the cloth is turned up. Two points for finding a picture that shows the issue. Good job!
post #281 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by inlandisland View Post

As I have iterated in the thread on this jacket, I know that thre are a lot of issues with it, but I was hoping that someone here might give me a little feedback so that I can start letting it percolate for my next attempt (if there is one).
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
600
700700
621 P.S. (Click to show)
I know this would be more suited to the C&T beginners forum, but I am not allowed to post jacket topics there as I am too amatuerish and I jumped into this before doing any waistcoats. I figured that since it is technically at the point that it can be worn for modeling purposes it might be okay to post it in this thread - if not, sorry. Feedback appreciated.


My compliments sir! You are tenacious in learning to sew and are doing well. Do you live anywhere near a tailor that makes jackets or trousers? Your next step would be to watch someone experienced doing this work and here's why. You are learning what to do but not how to do it. The sooner you can learn how things should be sewn together , how to hold a garment when sewing, how to prepare things before sewing them, etc., the better you will be and you will progress faster than teaching yourself. It's like developing a golf swing, you want proper instruction sooner rather than later so you don't create bad habits that are hard to unlearn. You will be amazed at how many questions will come to you after watching someone sew. It isn't easy or maybe even possible to critique your sewing because we can't know what or how you did it.
post #282 of 4779
Thank you Despos - the encouragement means a great deal to me and what you're saying makes a lot of sense. There is one old italian guy in Winnipeg with a shop by the name of Sefarino Falvo who does full bespoke, or something close to it. I've talked with him once and he is very nice, but I'm not sure he would be willing to invest that kind of time in me... Romolo Fracassi is another higher-end tailor that I've not yet visited. There are also a few asian 'custom tailors' throughout the city, but some look questionable and others I have not had the time to investigate.

Regardless, I have been having an impossible time finding nice buttons anywhere in the city, so my plan was to take my jacket in its current state and visit Serafino and/or Romolo to ask if I could buy some buttons off them and maybe get some feedback. There are times I honestly think that if I didn't have the financial responsibilities I have accumulated I would seek out an apprenticeship so that I could learn the proper ways of doing things. As it is, I am almost a year behind schedule on my Masters Thesis because I'm sewing instead cry.gif
post #283 of 4779
Quote:
Originally Posted by inlandisland View Post

Thank you Despos - the encouragement means a great deal to me and what you're saying makes a lot of sense. There is one old italian guy in Winnipeg with a shop by the name of Sefarino Falvo who does full bespoke, or something close to it. I've talked with him once and he is very nice, but I'm not sure he would be willing to invest that kind of time in me... Romolo Fracassi is another higher-end tailor that I've not yet visited. There are also a few asian 'custom tailors' throughout the city, but some look questionable and others I have not had the time to investigate.
Regardless, I have been having an impossible time finding nice buttons anywhere in the city, so my plan was to take my jacket in its current state and visit Serafino and/or Romolo to ask if I could buy some buttons off them and maybe get some feedback. There are times I honestly think that if I didn't have the financial responsibilities I have accumulated I would seek out an apprenticeship so that I could learn the proper ways of doing things. As it is, I am almost a year behind schedule on my Masters Thesis because I'm sewing instead cry.gif

The way I look at it, what you need to change is less the jacket and more your approach to coatmaking. I too made a trial garment but I "proofed" it at every step. Like you, I did this to go through all the steps without worrying too much about perfection. But unlike you, I wanted every part to be approximately right before I proceeded to the next. I thought a lot about the macro stuff. The approach, mostly.

facing1.jpg

373

backfit.jpg
post #284 of 4779
Hymo,
It is very interesting to see the uniformity of length and spacing of your basting stitches along the frontparts. That isn't beginners luck but very intentional.
post #285 of 4779
I'm surprised at the uniformity myself. I didn't draw lines or anything. However, I'm now apprenticing part time and my master draws chalklines on the canvas to guide my basting (on a real customer's job).
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