The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions - Page 178

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rankiz 

Okay, this is my suit after alterations. I am not 100% satisfied and ask for guidance.



The tailor did take in the waist a little too much so I look like a duck, I was therefore thinking to let out the waist a little (blue stripes). However, since I find the suit a little too big around the waist and on the front, I was thinking to take in the midseam (red stripe) by around 1 inch. Any input on this plan?

Post pics without the editing. Can't see that area with the paint lines. Also, take a side profile picture.

Like most before me I would like to thank the experts here who donate their time to help clueless people like myself.  I recently began building a suit and jacket collection and would appreciate feedback on two coats I just picked up.  As for fit, I like a classic look with a little bit of modern thrown in.  I prefer a bit of a slim, tapered fit, but nothing to fashion forward.

Anyway, the first is a Samuelsohn, 40R.  I bought it knowing that I needed the midsection taken in a bit, but otherwise I really liked the coat.

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The second is nothing fancy, a lower end, fused, Hugo Boss.  I was looking for something else, but I really liked the way it looked on me and the price was great.  I don't know that I would have anything changed on this simply because I wouldn't invest much into it, but I'm curious as to what I may have missed.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by OTCtailor 

The difference in button stance doesn't appear to be that significant. Patching up those buttonholes and making new ones a cm higher will cost you $$$. Also, the question is whether it will affect the crossover point/roll line of the lapel. Owning a few DB's myself with varying heights of button stance, my personal suggestion is wear it without the bottom button secured thus visually increasing the height of the button stance. Overall, the proportions are not off on either. The higher stance on suit A looks modern. The slightly lowered stance on B looks classic although the position of the gorge in relation to the stance may attract the attention of a better trained eye.

All in all, I think you can start counting sheep again 

Really, really big thanks, especially for the tip on leaving the bottom button unbuttoned. Doing so, esp. while wearing the matching pants, does make the button stance look a lot better.

The low button stance seems much more noticeable when worn with odd pants for some reason, but I could just have a DB odd jacket with higher button stance made for that purpose.

Again, thank your for the invaluable input!

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautikal 

I just got my first shirt from Modern Tailor and would appreciate some input. I measured a custom tailored dress shirt I had gotten two years earlier and then decreased the waist, armhole, and bicep measurements to make it fit slimmer while I increased the neck size a bit.

The main issues with the shirt are:

1. Pulling at first button below collar. Does this mean the shoulders, chest, or both are too small?
2. Billowing in the back. I guess this means I need to decrease the waist size, but I am concerned this will make it too tight in the front. It seems like there is just a lot more fabric in the back than the front. Can anyone with knowledge of shirt construction give some input here? Why do all my shirts fit okay in the front yet have all this extra fabric in the lower half of my back? If I specify darts, does this mean the shirt is slimmer in the back, or is the fit the same?
3. There is extra fabric in the back where the sleeve attaches below the yoke (see back view picture). Is this the armhole measurement? Chest? Yoke?

I also need to increase the neck a bit as well as the sleeve length, and maybe decrease the bicep a bit as well. Any other recommendations?

My measurements (cm) were:

Collar 37.5
Half Chest 51
Half Waist 44
Half Hip 48
Sleeve Length 58
Half Bicep (optional) 17
Cuffs 19
Yoke 41
Shoulder (optional) 14.5
Shirt Length 73
Armhole (optional) 24


Posture: Straight
Shoulder: Sloping
Stomach: Flat
Body: Slim

FYI I am 5'7" and 130 pounds


Front:


2nd front shot which shows the pulling at the first button better. Note I am leaning to the left a bit.


Side:


Side Offset:


Rear:

The shirt is a little tight in the chest which is why it's pulling across that button. Needs more room in the chest. That you can only change with ordering the next shirt. Release the button and allow it to spread until the wrinkles go away. The distance it spreads is what you need in the chest. The extra fabric at the back behind the shoulder blade is more related to how they cut the pattern than per your measurements. With your straighter posture, you're wider across the chest than you are across the back. That's why there's extra fabric there. Easier to live with than to fix.

The fabric at your lower back comes from your posture. You've got a slight roll to your upper trapezius which transitions downward into anterior or forward pelvic tilt. This presents a hollow of space at your lower back. This essentially shortens your back from the middle down to your seat while the front of your body remains longer. That's why no fabric bunches at the front in the same manner. Darts strategically aimed at the most hollow point of your lower back will give you better shape there. I personally prefer to put darts right behind the side seams so they're mostly invisible from behind. I've got your posture but exaggerated so something to think about. Either way works, but one is more visible than the other.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rankiz 



Here you go:

This is harder without a side profile picture but it look like your posture is presenting that hollow space in your lower back. You also have a prominent seat. This places limits on the amount you can suppress in the waist in the back of the jacket or you will get what you can see in the above photo which is the start of a fabric "shelf" at your lower back. Doesn't necessarily make the jacket too tight.

Also, the tailor could've taken in thru the armholes to decrease the amount of fabric at the back of the armhole. As a matter of fact, he could've suppressed the jacket by manipulating the side seams in a way that suppressed the back/waist while also decreasing the width of the vents...without touching the center back seam. If you need more suppression beyond that, you can have the tailor add a dart right behind the underarm dart which falls under the arm nearly invisible but helps to suppress the front of the jacket to give you more shape.

Hello. I recently started trying to revamp my wardrobe a bit and as I was researching proper fit for coats I stumbled across this thread and think it is brilliant!  It has been a big help while looking for some off-the-rack clothes.  I just picked up a Calvin Klein extreme slim fit sport jacket which I really like and is quite comfortable.  I already know that I will need to have the sleeves shortened some more (already shortened once but they didn't take them up nearly enough) and could probably use some waist suppression.  Is there anything else that I'm not thinking of that I should look at to have altered?  I would like to thank the tailors and anyone else who may pitch in in advance for your time and suggestions.

Below is a quick and dirty pinning job on the sleeves and excess material in the back to get a basic idea of the direction I'm thinking I should try to go with this jacket so that it follows the contour of my body a little better and shows off the cuff of the shirt.  Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BackstageOwl 

Hello. I recently started trying to revamp my wardrobe a bit and as I was researching proper fit for coats I stumbled across this thread and think it is brilliant!  It has been a big help while looking for some off-the-rack clothes.  I just picked up a Calvin Klein extreme slim fit sport jacket which I really like and is quite comfortable.  I already know that I will need to have the sleeves shortened some more (already shortened once but they didn't take them up nearly enough) and could probably use some waist suppression.  Is there anything else that I'm not thinking of that I should look at to have altered?  I would like to thank the tailors and anyone else who may pitch in in advance for your time and suggestions.

 

 

 

 

Below is a quick and dirty pinning job on the sleeves and excess material in the back to get a basic idea of the direction I'm thinking I should try to go with this jacket so that it follows the contour of my body a little better and shows off the cuff of the shirt.  Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

 

 

Square the shoulders to shorten the back balance to kill that collar gap. Suppress the back thru the waist. Ask the tailor to do this straight thru the vents to decrease their width. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautikal 


Thank you very much for the detailed feedback! So would you recommend reducing the waist measurements a bit to reduce the fabric in the back too? Or is the extra fabric mostly just from the way they cut the pattern and my posture?

Your "posture" relating to how they cut the pattern mostly has to with how the neck/shoulder balance is cut. You can just add that you have a hollow lower back and ask for darts. Decreasing the total waist measurement won't necessarily cure the problem. If it's too tight, it'll pull the fabric from the front and strain the buttons. The objective is to keep quality fit in the front while developing shaped fit in the back. That's what the darts are for.

Quote:

Originally Posted by p.henrik 

Hi again,

Another suit from Ah Loke, KL, Malaysia. Just the jacket here (forward fitting) :



Overall happy (shoulders, where divots are a particular problems on most suits turned out well). To me the lapels appear skimpy, even though I made sure they extended half way (3.5-4inches) to the shoulder seem. Is it the lack of curvature that make them appear so? It also feels quite full in the chest, even though it fits well in arm holes and waist.

I making him square off the neck to take away the horizontal crease between the shoulder blades, and let out the lower back just a bit. Other thoughts?

And a baste fitting for another tweed jacket. Will pitch sleevehead forward and some other changes Ah Loke helped me identified, but overall thinks it will be nice, despite the puckering in front now visible.


This is btw I have been debating whether to have hacking + ticket pockets on in this thread
http://www.styleforum.net/t/326623/igent-approval-for-hacking-pockets-needed
Still haven't decided what I'll go with.

I think the DB looks great. Agree with your own alteration suggestions. Also, I think you need a little less width at both blades but mostly on the left. If you're going bespoke, there's no reason to have a clean chest in the front and not have a clean back. If the armscye and shoulders are cut correctly, there not only shouldn't be much of any drape, but you also won't be that restricted in movement. Also, I personally think those vents are very wide with quite a bit of flare. You are a thin and fairly straight up and down guy so maybe that was your preference?

On the tweed jacket, something looks off with the balance. Obviously, you have a low right shoulder that I assume they'll fix? A little more room in the chest may prevent that shoulder divot.

Haven't read your debate on the hacking/ticket pockets. A lot to take into consideration there, but I primarily approach that issue from a perspective of proportion first. That is to say that a hacking pocket will soften a square shoulder line but a flat pocket stance will flatter a sloped shoulder line. If you're short, jetted pockets help with height but they would look funny on a tweed jacket. Also, a ticket pocket cuts the vertical line down which is good for taller folks not so good for shorter. 

If I were dressing you, I'd at least suggest patch pocket all the way around. Breast and lower pockets. Possibly with inverted pleats. Why? You're a fairly thin guy and the addition of those types of pockets will not only enhance the style of a tweed jacket but will also give you outward perceived breadth. It will flatter your thin-ness for lack of a better description.

The question is, in what order do you dress? Style first, proportion second or proportion first, style second?

Hope that helps.